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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Anyone Lowered the Front Via Strut Clevis?



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      05-22-2015, 03:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craesq View Post
I considered doing this as well, but doesn't it impact the end link? The upper end link is attached to the shock body. How does the upper link move 1/2" down if the lower end link remains the same? Very interested in hearing any response.
I believe the sway bar itself is going lower by roughly 1/2" since it's attached to the car. See my previous post on this thread and at least one response to it.

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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
The ONLY reason I wouldn't do this, is because when you hit a big enough pothole there's a potential for the entire strut assembly to SINK down and do far more damage than it should.

The non-M E46 has a similar clamp design to hold the strut in, but without the additional tab that stops the strut from moving down further. On a rare down-pour in Los Angeles, I miss-judged how deep a pothole was (it was filled with rain water, but several inches deep) and hit it at speed, and the entire strut assembly collapsed down (the kingpin moved UP on the assembly), bottomed out, nearly punched through the strut tower, and did enough damage that I had to basically "total" the car.

The real question to ask here is, if you can't afford $300 worth of springs to lower the car, where the labor involved to "lower" the car using the dropped strut assembly will likely cost about the same as the springs...Why not just do it the right way?
Yikes sorry that happened. I also wonder about corrosion if I cut the tab. It's a tempting idea (so simple) and I wouldn't mind putting in the DIY time, but I'll think about it more.
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      05-22-2015, 03:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
The ONLY reason I wouldn't do this, is because when you hit a big enough pothole there's a potential for the entire strut assembly to SINK down and do far more damage than it should.

I understand your concern, and I would be too if the mod required you remove the whole tab, but it doesn't, it doesn't even require the removal of anything that is actually welded onto the strut. the only part you actually cut isn't even attached to the strut.

This is after the mod.
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      10-17-2015, 11:11 AM   #25
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on supreme perches and cut the tab while I was in there, no problems at all.
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      10-19-2015, 10:52 AM   #26
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Nice! I will give this a try for a 1/2" more drop on my e90. I'll also check clearance as i will be running 195/35/19 on 19x8 up front.

I have a question since you did the front. Any ideas on the rear besides removing the spring bushing or any cutting on the springs? I'm currently on H&R springs, front and rear wheels are slightly tucked but I would like to go lower. Thanks!
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      10-19-2015, 11:15 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Jul View Post
I'll also check clearance as i will be running 195/35/19 on 19x8 up front.
What?
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      10-19-2015, 12:28 PM   #28
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Stretched tires and 215/35/19 on 19x10 on rear. It's drive able and I got these specs from tyre stretch.com

Can anyone show me how to post pics in here or I'll email and you post them?
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      10-19-2015, 12:30 PM   #29
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Checking the clearance from hitting the front strut lower spring cup
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      10-22-2015, 06:24 PM   #30
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Interesting.

So on a stock sized 18" 225 tire, there should be little to no concern of rubbing the strut tower, correct?
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      10-22-2015, 06:32 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Interesting.

So on a stock sized 18" 225 tire, there should be little to no concern of rubbing the strut tower, correct?
that will depend from the rim specification like width and offset, not so much of tire size.
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      10-22-2015, 07:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer
Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Interesting.

So on a stock sized 18" 225 tire, there should be little to no concern of rubbing the strut tower, correct?
that will depend from the rim specification like width and offset, not so much of tire size.
Stock 189's
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      10-22-2015, 10:07 PM   #33
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its directly related to how much room you have right now, lets just say you have 1" from tire to strut perch, you take 1/2" off the tab, then you have 1/2" up top.

I wouldn't take ask someone else about this take a measurement yourself and make sure it will work, its pretty easy to figure out how much you can take off without going too far.
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      10-23-2015, 09:21 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Stock 189's
no issues at all on stock equipment, it has been done many times before.
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      12-08-2015, 11:40 PM   #35
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Hoped to cut clevis on my Koni Yellow but sadly it has another design and can't be cutted that way.
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      12-09-2015, 10:13 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stream View Post
Hoped to cut clevis on my Koni Yellow but sadly it has another design and can't be cutted that way.
You can still dremell off the bottom part of it as is only spot welded on the top. It is a fail safe design. Others on this thread has expressed concern that if one removes this and hit a hole hard enough that the whole assembly would sink down. The struts are designed to just that. Including oem struts, so the strut body will not bent or the shaft to break/snap off, both much more dangerous than sinking. If you cut the piece on your Koni make sure you protect the surface. DupliColor bus yellow is perfect match. I have two spray cans at home...
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      12-10-2015, 12:17 AM   #37
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Next level shit here. Fuck cutting springs...
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      12-10-2015, 09:53 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by tmo24 View Post
Next level shit here. Fuck cutting springs...
Oh, wow, this is why we should have the option to give negative marks and not only appreciations!

FYI we aren't discussing cutting springs on this thread and if you don't have any knowledge to share on the issue being discussed please omit posting nonsense comments.
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      03-30-2016, 07:33 AM   #39
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Any new thoughts on this?

I got some Koni Yellows on the way to me, and I'm debating on doing this vs Supreme Perches. I'm not looking to introduce unwanted spring binding noises as others have with the perches.
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      03-30-2016, 02:43 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeLow View Post
Any new thoughts on this?

I got some Koni Yellows on the way to me, and I'm debating on doing this vs Supreme Perches. I'm not looking to introduce unwanted spring binding noises as others have with the perches.

You know, I have found that my car makes funny noises sometimes in the front that sounds like spring binding (I'm on the supreme perches) - but only with my winter wheels/tires. My summer set is silent, which makes me wonder if it's actually spring binding.
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      03-30-2016, 02:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fravel View Post
You know, I have found that my car makes funny noises sometimes in the front that sounds like spring binding (I'm on the supreme perches) - but only with my winter wheels/tires. My summer set is silent, which makes me wonder if it's actually spring binding.
It is probably the strut mount making contact with the SP perch. Very typical when mounts get worn out. I will post photos later...
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      03-30-2016, 03:08 PM   #42
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I'd be very surprised if that was the case. Struts were replaced along with all new components less than 20,000 miles ago when I put the perches on, and like I said, it hasn't been time dependent. The noise comes and goes based on what wheels are on the car.
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      03-30-2016, 03:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fravel View Post
I'd be very surprised if that was the case. Struts were replaced along with all new components less than 20,000 miles ago when I put the perches on, and like I said, it hasn't been time dependent. The noise comes and goes based on what wheels are on the car.
I will post the photos and you will see. I replaced the mounts as well. Replaced the OEM for the same reason. Shortly I was experiencing the same issue with the new mounts as well. I tried adding a washer which remedy the rub but introduced a clunk. Finally I give up and pulled them off.

If you see difference from wheel to wheel it might be something else and I would say is from the tires. The bottom spring perch on the strut doesn't have an actual coil stop so maybe stickier tires are cousing the coil to shift back and forth and rub on that welded piece on the side od the SP perches. I had that issue too. Ended up installing bolts to serve as coil stops.
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      03-30-2016, 05:08 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer
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Originally Posted by fravel View Post
I'd be very surprised if that was the case. Struts were replaced along with all new components less than 20,000 miles ago when I put the perches on, and like I said, it hasn't been time dependent. The noise comes and goes based on what wheels are on the car.
I will post the photos and you will see. I replaced the mounts as well. Replaced the OEM for the same reason. Shortly I was experiencing the same issue with the new mounts as well. I tried adding a washer which remedy the rub but introduced a clunk. Finally I give up and pulled them off.

If you see difference from wheel to wheel it might be something else and I would say is from the tires. The bottom spring perch on the strut doesn't have an actual coil stop so maybe stickier tires are cousing the coil to shift back and forth and rub on that welded piece on the side od the SP perches. I had that issue too. Ended up installing bolts to serve as coil stops.
So as of right now, what is your setup? I know you've previously said koni/bmw performance springs. Is your strut clevis cut and do you currently run the SP perches w/mods? And lastly what's your ride height?

I plan of running Koni yellows with ZSP springs. New strut mounts as well when I do it.
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