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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Eibach sportline springs or Pro kit springs
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07-13-2015, 12:34 PM | #23 |
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wow that is really good and they are pro kit and can put just springs on that's like a saving of £70 mad lol and there the same as you can get here just different box ?
Thanks Rich_D |
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07-13-2015, 01:20 PM | #24 |
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Might even be the same box, who cares?
Had an email from where I bought my b12 kit (tunero.de) saying the kit was coming direct from eibach |
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07-13-2015, 03:23 PM | #25 |
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I just ordered them now so should have them soon :-D
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-Pro...item25a487da1c Last edited by Bryera; 07-13-2015 at 03:40 PM.. |
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07-15-2015, 08:55 AM | #26 |
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07-15-2015, 05:03 PM | #27 |
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I've been considering fittting a pro kit for a while now. My reservations are that it still leaves the car sitting with a little reverse rake. An extra 5-10mm drop on the front would be nice.
Was looking at the axle loads this evening of different E91 pro kits to ascertain which Eibach part number is specified for my engine (325d). Logic would suggest that by fitting the kit for the slightly lighter front end cars, it would achieve at least a very slight additional drop to a car with a heavier nose. Looking at the numbers, this would affect the front only, which would be perfect. The difference is as follows 335d 330d 335i 325d Front 1090kg Rear 1200kg 320d 325i 330i 318d Front 1045kg Rear 1200kg I wonder to what extent the handling would be compromised!.? Last edited by Tim G; 07-15-2015 at 05:15 PM.. |
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07-15-2015, 05:33 PM | #28 |
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If you look up the TUV certificate for the springs (its linked on the eibach web catalog) it will tell you the spring rates and lengths of each spring.
Heres the link to save you searching: http://www.dvsegmbh.info/PDF/einbau/...-014-02-22.PDF You might find the only difference between the 320d and 330d front spring is that ones slightly shorter, rather than it actually being higher spring rate. If the spring rate is the same, handling and comfort should be unaffected, it'll just sit slightly lower. Having looked at the PDF, there are three front springs used across the various models: 4 cylinder petrol, 4 cylinder diesel/6 cylinder petrol and 6 cylinder diesel The first two, use the same wire diameter and number of coils, which means the spring rate is the same. The 4cyl diesel/6cyl petrol springs are simply 10mm longer than the 4cyl petrol, which accounts for the slight increase in weight. The 6 cylinder diesel however uses thicker wire (which increases the spring rate) and slightly more turns (which decreases the rate) so a direct comparison isnt possible. You can probably calculate the difference. |
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07-15-2015, 05:42 PM | #29 |
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Ok quick *** packet maths:
1% increase in wire diameter increases the spring rate by 4%. 12mm to 12.25mm is a 2% increase, so the increase in wire diameter makes the 330d spring 8% stiffer. for the extra coil, its a linear relationship. Twice the coils would half the rate. 4.75/5 = 0.95, so the extra quarter turn reduces the spring rate by 5% Net difference is about 3% increase. Not massive, but the 330d spring is also 10mm longer than the 320d spring. Could work just fine, but would give you more than 10mm drop, as the springs both 10mm shorter and slightly softer. Wouldnt it be better just buying the Sportline springs instead? Edit: apparently not, as they dont make sportline springs in 6cyl diesel fitment |
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07-16-2015, 07:54 AM | #30 | |
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Quote:
Ive got Eibach Pro's fitted on my 320D and the ride is great even on standard shocks |
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07-16-2015, 04:25 PM | #32 | |
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Quote:
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07-17-2015, 02:53 PM | #33 |
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Yer the work done lowered it a bit and sits better but I have had the brakes disks and pads change for new but the pedal seems spongy and the brakes are baking how and can smell them on braking any advice on this is it because I not had the fluid changed??
Also is the back siting high or is it ment to be a like that or is it just me?? |
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07-17-2015, 03:10 PM | #34 |
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It looks a little high, but maybe it's just the camera angle. Have you driven it yet, the springs should settle quickly.
Getting my b12 pro kit next week |
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07-17-2015, 04:22 PM | #35 |
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To be fair they are shit pics will get better ones tomorrow but the front has definitely has gone down but the back not to sure myself lol but it's my brakes I am worried about being so hot and cab smell them a lot and spongy pedal?
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07-17-2015, 05:14 PM | #36 |
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Perhaps your calipers are sticking? Try driving a short distance without using the brakes at all, then stop the car and see if the disks are getting hot?
Did you clean the shipping oil off the disks before fitting? Give the springs a few weeks and they should settle down. You should probably also "reset" the bushes in the rear suspsension and this will drop it a little more. To do that you need the car on a ramp where you can get access to all the bolts on the wishbones etc. With the car sitting at ride height, slacken all the bushes off, then retorque them to remove any pre-load from them. Do the fronts as well. |
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07-17-2015, 07:39 PM | #37 |
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I did a drive with out using much of my brakes and my rear driver side is very hot so must be caliper sticking? Is that a easy job or is it expensive car looks like it's starting to sit better now and look a lot better now just that brake :@
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07-18-2015, 06:37 AM | #38 |
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I would guess a stuck piston in the caliper. Had the same happen to our last car.
Sponginess in the pedal indicates air in the braking system. When was the fluid last changed? As it's hygroscopic it absorbs moisture and this water could boil off creating air bubbles when braking hard - or when you have a sticking caliper! |
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07-18-2015, 07:11 AM | #39 |
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You've probably boiled the fluid driving with the caliper siezed on!
Best thing will be to replace the sticking caliper, then have all the brake fluid changed. You'll probably get a reconditioned caliper from a motorfactors for around 80quid. |
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07-18-2015, 02:54 PM | #41 |
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They tend to sieze up due to corrosion. The piston will have rusted, and you winding it back in has meant its now become stuck.
You could completely dismantle the caliper, clean up the piston and the bore and install new seals, and that might sort it, but for the effort involved, the chances that you'll do all that and find the internal parts FUBAR or reassemble it all and find it sticks again in 12 months time, means its likely far better just to replace the caliper now and be done with it. |
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07-22-2015, 06:43 PM | #42 |
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Sorry it taken so long to comment back but cars now running well and the springs really do make a difference to the handling sticks to the road a lot more the brakes I did what you said Aragon and feels good will get some photos ones she is clean
Thanks for all the advice guy helped a lot!!!!! |
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