[natedog7700]

With my inlets and RBs, E40 MHD wedge tune, I put down 505 and that was before I did a few other things. Probably at 515+

[jippii ensio]

Originally Posted by Iceberg3232

Only 3 variables: jb4 to Cobb with same tuner, added inlets, switched dyno although same AWD dynojet. In my head, there is a delta of approximate 55+wheel here. Expected to push 530-540 and instead I topped out at 477.

What are the correction factors?

Any difference in temps?

What about the altitude?

Are your inlets tested to have no leaks? the rear turbo inlet is a pita and some rear inlets, especially those with a little larger diameter tend to leak.

You are running "race code" with Cobb? Are you sure about the boost?

[jippii ensio]

Originally Posted by nyt

You were using a factory map sensor to start with. Are you sure you were only running 21psi? You're not going to get accurate readings there, it could have been more boost. Switching from factory to N20 recently, I had to target higher boost levels (23+psi) to match the same pwm and power I was seeing at around 20 on the factory sensor. So either the factory sensor is inaccurate, or the N20 scaling is off. I haven't yet hooked up a mechanical boost gauge to check, but will eventually. Just something to consider.

Interesting, please keep us posted.

[nyt]

Originally Posted by jippii ensio

Interesting, please keep us posted.

Friend confirmed JB4 with N20 matches mechanical boost gauge, likely stock sensor flying blind at that point and running more boost than you thought previously.

[musc]

Originally Posted by nyt

Friend confirmed JB4 with N20 matches mechanical boost gauge, likely stock sensor flying blind at that point and running more boost than you thought previously.

Yeah. Just reinforces the importance of not pushing the stock Tmap to the max voltage and expecting it to maintain accuracy. N20 Tmap is a cheap upgrade.

[pits200]

With that kind of power and awd, here is your best test. Take it to the track, if you run 10s you have 550 whp...

[Iceberg3232]

Originally Posted by jippii ensio

What are the correction factors?

Any difference in temps?

What about the altitude?

Are your inlets tested to have no leaks? the rear turbo inlet is a pita and some rear inlets, especially those with a little larger diameter tend to leak.

You are running "race code" with Cobb? Are you sure about the boost?

I was wondering if I had any leaks on this inlet setup...time to smoke test? Wouldn't I be setting off codes if that were the case?

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

You just simply cannot compare another dyno. Especially from a different state, elevation, humidity, gas quality, and this list goes on and on. You also have other changes and there really is no actual control to just compare 1 to the next.

Remember, a dyno is a tool. Anyone that just goes to a dyno for a pull or number is wasting time and money.

They are to be used as a measurement and a control. The idea is to make a change and find the delta of the change. Without baselines or controls you are going to be spinning your wheels.

That being said, as other suggested... Log. I would totally disregard your original dyno as it has no merit in the equation.

Couldn't have said it better myself. You can't compare different dynos and you definitely can't compare different brands of dynos.

[tampaturbom3]

I was reading and waiting to see if anyone noticed that the original sensor can't read beyond the 21% and it's inaccurate at that point even... so he could have been running 24,25,hell even 30PSI and it would have read "21".... but I see NYT addressed that.
obviously the other factors are factors... different dyno in different conditions, etc, etc,, but the sensor thing jumped off the page to me because I think I've been in the same boat... probably running way over 21psi but thinking it was 21 due to logs.
Hmmm,,, now, how do I do the N20 thing without a BMS? I've read some threads but I'm just not getting it.... uhg..