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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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335d FMIC & Charge Pipe Upgrade
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11-12-2015, 09:53 PM | #23 | ||
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Strange development... I lowered the amount of meth that I am using in my mixture. Now it is probably a ratio of 30% meth to 70% water. For reasons I don't fully understand, I am no longer having a problem with quenching. My car begins injecting as low as 10 psi with the one hundred and seventy five millimeter nozzle. the secondary nozzle which is 350 mm kicks in @ 27 psi. of course the car does not have the pickup it did when I was running almost pure meth. However there is still a noticeable power boost, the car drives beautifully and, most importantly, my temperatures are the same or even a little lower with the system running. I know that none of this is an earth-shattering insight however I now feel like I have a water meth system that I can run in my daily driver that has substantially increased my power without making me worry that I am going to melt my turbos. Next month I will be more scientific about precisely measuring out my mixture, but my earlier posts were dominated by my frustrations around what I thought was quenching. I am now wondering if I created some sort of early detonation issue by running too much meth that I mistook for quenching. I think this is unlikely given that the car was a rocket when I was running almost pure meth and the only ill effect that I could discern was pre DPF temperatures that were 1200+ degrees. DWR someday I will get you my logs from torque pro. Running the lower meth mixture has meant my boost now Peaks @ 28 psi vs 30 psi and my AFRs no longer drop below 13.5. my pre DPF temperatures do not break 1000 degrees. in short, I am a happy camper. |
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11-13-2015, 10:22 AM | #24 | |
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I think you might be right about detonation versus quenching. |
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11-13-2015, 05:46 PM | #25 |
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You shouldnt get detonation from running any concentration of meth, 100% or 5%. Not saying that isnt what was happening, but it doesnt make sense to me. Diesel fuel has practically no ignition resistance from compression (octane rating is considered to be somewhere around 20) while methanol has an octane rating generally considered to be about 115.
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11-13-2015, 07:33 PM | #26 | |
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11-13-2015, 08:30 PM | #27 | |
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11-13-2015, 09:45 PM | #28 |
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I've read the new m3 will have factory water injection.
http://m-power.com/_open/s/varlink2.jsp?id=3301&lang=en[/URL] Wonder if there's any insight to be gained... |
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11-13-2015, 10:54 PM | #29 | |
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11-14-2015, 05:48 PM | #30 | |
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It's the water that slows down the combustion rate (and methanol's is fast) to keep detonation from happening. It also has to do with the ratio of diesel to methanol. As a greater percentage of methanol is introduced the combustion cycle looks less like typical 2 phase diesel combustion and more like spark ingition with a diesel pilot ignition. High octane doesn't mean an engine cannot detonate. It just means the conditions needed are much harsher. Methanol detonation in diesels is well documented. For those who wish to know more, I've attached a representative research article. For who are adverse to reading this kind of stuff, skip to the "picture" near the end. ![]() |
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11-14-2015, 11:07 PM | #31 | ||
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Apologies to all for misinterpreting this stuff. I wish to god I knew what was a safe threshold pre DPF temp wise. After several high speed runs today with more careful measurement behind the Oakland port, my pre DPF temps peak at ~1,000 with no water meth and ~1050 with 30% meth. Tomorrow I will unplug my Chipexpress to try and determine how much my temps are over stock with no piggyback and no meth. In spite of my earlier enthusiasm I do wish I was getting a bit more power, but I don't want to push the temperature too high. Does anybody have a rule of thumb they use on temps, ie, if I'm at 1000 degrees pre DPF that means I'm at 1300 degrees on the turbo? I know that nobody out there wants to give advice that might melt another persons engine, but it would be helpful to get some guidance in this area. My EGR is blocked but otherwise all the emissions equipment is still on the car. |
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11-15-2015, 12:08 AM | #32 | |
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11-15-2015, 07:31 AM | #33 |
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IA I went back and tracked down the thread. One interesting thing you mentioned, if I am reading it correctly, is I should increase my primary nozzle size to get cooling? For the record, on close examination I have never, ever seen reduced EGTs from running meth...ever.
I am running 175 mm primary and 350 mm secondary. |
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11-15-2015, 07:34 AM | #34 | |
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Depending on where you're at on the compressor map and how efficient the turbo is, you might be well above 300F delta from pre to post turbo exhaust temps. Without a direct measurement it's a bit of speculation, and I haven't seen any direct measurements of this on our platform. But I would really like it if someone would share info if they have it.
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11-15-2015, 05:07 PM | #35 | ||
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11-15-2015, 07:43 PM | #37 | |
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11-15-2015, 08:03 PM | #38 | |
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One of many examples showing a 500F delta pre/post EGT's ... http://blog.glowshiftdirect.com/2013...or-post-turbo/
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11-16-2015, 03:52 PM | #39 |
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I have an idea for pre turbo EGT
For those of us with EGR cooler removed. There is a convenient way to measure pre turbo EGT. We all have a plug on the front end of the exhaust manifold that would have fed into inlet of cooler.
What if you put an EGT in that plug? That area of manifold is stagnant (dead headed) so it would read higher than gases flowing to turbine but it would be better than drilling and tapping the exhaust. |
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11-16-2015, 05:35 PM | #40 |
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Excellent suggestion. And if the DPF has been deleted, there is a spare probe to use,that can be datalogged by Torque or Testo.
The counter arguement will be what if the probe breaks and destroys the turbo? Well, it is difficult to find any evidence that there is any risk of the EGT probe breaking. Failing yes, breaking no. Besides, after a little datalogging to establish the relationship, the probe can be removed. |
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11-16-2015, 09:15 PM | #41 | |
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11-17-2015, 09:49 PM | #42 |
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11-19-2015, 02:18 AM | #43 |
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I have the EGR blocking plates provided by our esteemed fellow poster on this site. Which of the blocking plates would get tapped for the temperature probe? How exactly would one place it? I assume a hole needs to be drilled and tapped. What kind of wiring would be required? How would one monitor the temps?
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11-19-2015, 09:18 PM | #44 | |
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But, I don't remember if you have the setup to make this happen. Are you running a DPF delete setup? |
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