[Bamaben]

FYI, you only need to drop the sway bar, no need to remove fan or anything else, at least on a 335i

[zoppp]

Originally Posted by sk55

jack stands are safe if you decent ones... dont get chinese harbor freight specials...

http://www.usjack.com/images/pdfs/Jack%20Stands.pdf

i got the 6 ton stands for extra room, their engineered well and made in the US.. like you i am not gonna risk my life with a cheap jack stand on a tilted driveway.

i am also planning to get a decent floor jack too this summer to give me extra lift.

or you can use ramps.. to get the car up.

I have Harbor Freight ones. The work just fine, the welds look good (I do lots of welding on my own). I have 3 ton rated jacks so I have a large factor of safety.

[MrSmileyDC]

Did this on ramps. Took 4-5 hours. It's helpful to have a flexible hose clamp screwdriver too for some of the angles you might be in.

[gabylonfive]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Bav Auto has a great video. The only change I did differently when I changed mine last year was remove the fan and FMIC before changing the thermostat & water pump; this created a significant amount of room to work. Also, if your near 100k, change out the U shaped connecting pipe while your at it.

It can be done on 4 Jack stands with a supporting Jack.

+1 - spend the extra 20 minutes to get the FMIC and fan out. It makes this job significantly easier if you can pull the t-stat hoses off from the top/front of the motor instead of underneath.

One thing I noticed the first time I did this was that BMW angles the hose clamp bolts upwards which makes it kind of a PITA to get a socket onto them to loosen. Have a flex driver or 1/4 ujoint handy. When you button everything back up point them downwards to make it easier when you have to go back in there.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by gabylonfive

+1 - spend the extra 20 minutes to get the FMIC and fan out. It makes this job significantly easier if you can pull the t-stat hoses off from the top/front of the motor instead of underneath.

One thing I noticed the first time I did this was that BMW angles the hose clamp bolts upwards which makes it kind of a PITA to get a socket onto them to loosen. Have a flex driver or 1/4 ujoint handy. When you button everything back up point them downwards to make it easier when you have to go back in there.

I was very worried about this, but luckily I was able to access those hose clamps from above with the cooling fan out. And I didn't even have a flexible driver - searched for one and haven't found one yet...

[gabylonfive]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

I was very worried about this, but luckily I was able to access those hose clamps from above with the cooling fan out. And I didn't even have a flexible driver - searched for one and haven't found one yet...

Good to hear. Yeah having the fan out helps quite a bit.

FYI I found one of these flex drivers to be handy:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63200-Fl...ds=flex+driver

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by El Cheapo Loco

Maybe it's just me but I'll be super paranoid crawling under a car on jack stands. $200 is not worth the risk of being crushed to death.

lol. exactly!

The E90 are not DIY friendly at all. I did my entire E46 coolant system just standing over the open hood!

[Bimmer Pleaser]

I am resurrecting this thread to ask a question: aside from overheat warning and radiator fan going crazy, what is a good way to be sure water has failed? What about trying to bleed the cooling system by initiating the process (setting the fan on low, pushing the pas, etc...) and see if pump runs when car is off?

It is a e92 which is running fine but I have a spare pump and thermostat to replace them myself if needed.

Thanks,

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Pleaser

I am resurrecting this thread to ask a question: aside from overheat warning and radiator fan going crazy, what is a good way to be sure water has failed? What about trying to bleed the cooling system by initiating the process (setting the fan on low, pushing the pas, etc...) and see if pump runs when car is off?

It is a e92 which is running fine but I have a spare pump and thermostat to replace them myself if needed.

Thanks,

search the numerous WP threads.... just scan the car for the codes 2E81 and 2E82. If you find them, the pump is bad.