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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Idle "dip" and light throttle hesitation



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      06-28-2016, 10:19 AM   #23
gunnerxq
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
My only issue with suspecting the MAF is that the problem has been happening for a year, way before the MAF code ever showed up. I will plug it in later today and see if there's anything new going on.
It was happening to me for almost a year before anything showed up.
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      06-28-2016, 01:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerxq
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Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
My only issue with suspecting the MAF is that the problem has been happening for a year, way before the MAF code ever showed up. I will plug it in later today and see if there's anything new going on.
It was happening to me for almost a year before anything showed up.
I'm not sure what you're saying?
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      06-28-2016, 06:02 PM   #25
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I'm not sure what you're saying?
Whoops going back and forth between threads messed me up. I was sure he was talking about the vanos sensors not the maf sensors.

I was having problems with idle for a few months which turned out to be a failing vanos sensor on the exhaust side. It was getting worse and worse till finally the check engine came on. Tried cleaning it but it still stored codes. So I replaced it and problem solved.

So maybe you have something electronic failing that intermittently works.
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      06-28-2016, 06:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerxq
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Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
I'm not sure what you're saying?
Whoops going back and forth between threads messed me up. I was sure he was talking about the vanos sensors not the maf sensors.

I was having problems with idle for a few months which turned out to be a failing vanos sensor on the exhaust side. It was getting worse and worse till finally the check engine came on. Tried cleaning it but it still stored codes. So I replaced it and problem solved.

So maybe you have something electronic failing that intermittently works.
Gotcha now. I just recently cleaned them, no vanos codes at all but I did feel like it helped. I could be wrong and it was in my head tho. I need to know what that value in the red means and maybe that will point me in the right direction. I don't mind replacing both solenoids as maintenance, but if they might not fix the problem then I'd like to keep investigating.
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      06-29-2016, 06:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
Gotcha now. I just recently cleaned them, no vanos codes at all but I did feel like it helped. I could be wrong and it was in my head tho. I need to know what that value in the red means and maybe that will point me in the right direction. I don't mind replacing both solenoids as maintenance, but if they might not fix the problem then I'd like to keep investigating.
Hello mate,

Recently having the same problem, i saw you posted in my thread. I am still having the issues with the slight hesitation at low rpms and tad rough idle, currently suspecting ESS or cats since i've changed: maf, injectors, coils, plugs, solenoids, air filter all brand new.
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      06-30-2016, 01:03 AM   #28
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Poked at my car again tonight. I wanted to check for vacuum leaks. Sprayed all around the intake manifold, intake elbow, throttle body, etc. Couldn't produce any rise in RPM. Although I'm not sure how reliable that test is?

Afterwards I unplugged each coil one after the other with the engine running to prove that they are all working and they are. So the rough idle I am experiencing isn't a hard misfire, it's more subtle. When a coil is unplugged it is very noticeable.

I get my new laptop next week so I should be able to look for more clues and try the smooth running test.
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      06-30-2016, 06:12 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewey
Poked at my car again tonight. I wanted to check for vacuum leaks. Sprayed all around the intake manifold, intake elbow, throttle body, etc. Couldn't produce any rise in RPM. Although I'm not sure how reliable that test is?

Afterwards I unplugged each coil one after the other with the engine running to prove that they are all working and they are. So the rough idle I am experiencing isn't a hard misfire, it's more subtle. When a coil is unplugged it is very noticeable.

I get my new laptop next week so I should be able to look for more clues and try the smooth running test.
If there's a decent enough leak, you would hear the rpm change. Probably not 100% for an extremely small leak tho

What I'm experiencing isn't a misfire, but it feels like one at idle so I understand what you're saying. I'm still on this, been too busy lately. Hopefully scan with inpa later after work.
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      06-30-2016, 06:17 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alx.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
Gotcha now. I just recently cleaned them, no vanos codes at all but I did feel like it helped. I could be wrong and it was in my head tho. I need to know what that value in the red means and maybe that will point me in the right direction. I don't mind replacing both solenoids as maintenance, but if they might not fix the problem then I'd like to keep investigating.
Hello mate,

Recently having the same problem, i saw you posted in my thread. I am still having the issues with the slight hesitation at low rpms and tad rough idle, currently suspecting ESS or cats since i've changed: maf, injectors, coils, plugs, solenoids, air filter all brand new.
One of the reasons I'm relying more on inpa and trying not to throw parts at her. Between a few of us, everything has been changed with no fix. I forget who, but someone changed the ess and still has the problem. I was thinking MAF, but you swapped yours and still no fix. It's def a mystery
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      06-30-2016, 10:34 AM   #31
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Odd. Keep us informed.
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      07-01-2016, 05:13 PM   #32
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Ok so finally found the time to hook up the laptop and I have two codes. One is a miss on cyl 6 (29d2), and one is dtml code (2a17). When I replaced the ignition coils, I didn't have the connectors in 100% so when I started the car I had misfires. I checked the connectors and everything was back to normal. The dtml code is new and I'm happy it's pointing me toward a direction other than the eccentric shaft sensor! hassmaschine I'm awaiting your knowledge ?
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      07-01-2016, 05:18 PM   #33
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AC on and then AC off.
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      07-01-2016, 05:39 PM   #34
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Anyone tell me where their vvt angle sits at idle? Mine is at 19 and then jumps to 25 with the AC on.
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      07-09-2016, 02:35 PM   #35
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New update:
I was messing around with Inpa some more and decided to delete the vvt and vanos adaptations (3rd time). Then I ran the vvt fence, both upper and lower, and system vanos tests. Immediately felt an increase in throttle response and low end power. The idle feels better, although not rock solid. We'll see what happens as the adaptations relearn their range.
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      07-09-2016, 02:48 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
New update:
I was messing around with Inpa some more and decided to delete the vvt and vanos adaptations (3rd time). Then I ran the vvt fence, both upper and lower, and system vanos tests. Immediately felt an increase in throttle response and low end power. The idle feels better, although not rock solid. We'll see what happens as the adaptations relearn their range.
Is it pretty self explanatory on how to do this in INPA? If not could you throw out some instructions.

Thanks
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      07-09-2016, 02:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdavis42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
New update:
I was messing around with Inpa some more and decided to delete the vvt and vanos adaptations (3rd time). Then I ran the vvt fence, both upper and lower, and system vanos tests. Immediately felt an increase in throttle response and low end power. The idle feels better, although not rock solid. We'll see what happens as the adaptations relearn their range.
Is it pretty self explanatory on how to do this in INPA? If not could you throw out some instructions.

Thanks
If you can scan codes with inpa, you can do what I did. If you cannot figure it out, I'll walk you through a step by step. But I'm heading to the car wash right now so I need a little while.
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      07-09-2016, 04:41 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willsbma View Post
If you can scan codes with inpa, you can do what I did. If you cannot figure it out, I'll walk you through a step by step. But I'm heading to the car wash right now so I need a little while.
I can probably figure it out but won't be doing this until later next week so if I have questions I will shoot you a PM.

Thanks
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      07-13-2016, 09:08 AM   #39
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Any update?
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      07-14-2016, 10:01 AM   #40
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Seems to be a little better, not perfect, but not as noticeable. Since the only thing that seemed to make a difference was vanos adaptations, I might just spring for two new solenoids and see what happens.
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      07-14-2016, 11:28 AM   #41
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They do degrade over time, that was going to be my suggestion.
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      08-15-2016, 06:59 PM   #42
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I've been reading a few of these post about rough idles and it seems like everyone is having issue after the car warms up. I have a rough idle but only at a very beginning of the "warm-up cycle" when the car is cold. Anybody else experience that?
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      08-15-2016, 11:08 PM   #43
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Yup, mine is rough warm or cold. No fix yet but I've got a new MAF on the way.
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      08-16-2016, 05:31 AM   #44
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Hmmm. Mine is exclusively rough on first start-up after it's been sitting for a while. This made me feel like it was a leaky injector. However, after the initial misfire code, the dealership replaced the 6 plugs, 6 coils, borescoped the cylinders to check for fuel, and pressure tested the injectors to see if they leaked and they didn't. Since the initial plug/coil change, I have had no more codes but the car is still rough when i first start it in the morning. It's completely fine the rest of the time and I track the car with no dips in power or hesitation at any point. It's only when I first start it in the morning... super weird. Anyway, I've gotten to the point where the dealership has suggested I switch gas stations to see if that makes a difference, although I'm pretty sceptical. I did, however, buy some injector/fuel system cleaner from a local BMW performance shop that I'm going to run through the car. If the issue is related to dirty fuel, that will hopefully make a difference.
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