[GreekboyD]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Hey, while having the vehicle on the lift this weekend for some experimenting with the downpipe/turbo transition, I put in the trans mounts you mentioned.

It was a wonderfully straight forward modification that went smoothly. I love those :-)

Just wanted to add that I did notice a slight reduction in road surface isolation. There's more energy being transferred to the chassis/seat/backside... Nothing "harsh" or annoying, but was able to notice the increase.

Thanks for the suggestion on this modification.

Anytime TDI and you're definitely right.

[Thecastle]

I just wanted to ask the experts here, about somethings I'm experiencing.

So because of time/labor I opted to install the powerflex yellow rear subframe bushings and monore rear shock mounts this weekend. Both went pretty well, except my wheels seemed welded onto the hubs, and some rubber mallet and kicking got them off...

Anyway, everything went in and I believe I over-torqued the rear subframe 18m bolts to 75-lb-ft as the torque specs turned out to be for the 1 series, instead of the what 64lb-ft I found later for the e90...

Anyway, holy cow, when I started up the car talk about engine vibration, whether the car was in park, neutral drive, reverse. It was a ton at idle, then after the car warmed up it went away. Never had that before the mounts, it was always a little vibration, but now it sets my dash buzzing. It only happens at cold start (car has 50K miles)

I also noticed I'm getting some it sounds like differential humming at 2000-2200rpm under nearly full throttle. Lower RPMs not there, and at higher I can't hear it.

I figure the diff probably always made the sound but it wasn't noticeable from the divers seat with the softer bushings. I suspect an oil change for the diff may help. Or loosen the bolts to 64lb-ft?

Do you figure my extra idle vibration is bad/malfunctioning engine mounts, or just a fact of life using poly inserts? Or an install issue? its fine once the car has been driven a bit, and its only rough at idle, not once the engine is turning. The engine is totally stock at the moment no modifications.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

you BASTARDS you got me thinking on this crap and Im trying to move to Dominican Republic(and save some money, yeah right!) where the roads are EXCELLENT to run our diesels. Meth is HOPEFULLY installed this weekend (shit I've procrastinated for a year now) I hate you GREEK jajajajaja

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

.
Anyway, everything went in and I believe I over-torqued the rear subframe 18m bolts to 75-lb-ft as the torque specs turned out to be for the 1 series, instead of the what 64lb-ft I found later for the e90...

Not saying your spec is wrong but double check this. Often, the torque spec will state a lb-ft (or N-M) spec + an angle of rotation beyond reaching that point. Example is the central bolt on the strut tower brace has an additional 100° of angle. I couldn't quite get that full angle without the E-Torx slipping off and all my skinny a$$ could push the breaker bar. Sorry to hear about the vibrations. I will do independent check on the 18 mm bolts holding subframe to chassis.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Not saying your spec is wrong but double check this. Often, the torque spec will state a lb-ft (or N-M) spec + an angle of rotation beyond reaching that point. Example is the central bolt on the strut tower brace has an additional 100° of angle. I couldn't quite get that full angle without the E-Torx slipping off and all my skinny a$$ could push the breaker bar. Sorry to hear about the vibrations. I will do independent check on the 18 mm bolts holding subframe to chassis.

Thanks, I Double checked another thread for the torque specs and found this. http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1342813525

So it looks like 100NM for the M18 sub frame to body mounting bolts. I'll double check the torque's this coming weekend. I'll say the idle was better today when cold, but the diff whine when cold is quite pronounced, but it too goes away after a warm up. Maybe just a downside of the poly mounts? Most of the folks who have done this mod had smoother running gasoline engines.. Some have complained of additional diff noise.

I'll double check my install this weekend, when I do a rear diff oil change and replace my red boost hose that is puking oil. I'll also check the vacuum lines to the engine mounts and the mounts themselves, when I'm doing the boost hose replacement.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Thanks, I Double checked another thread for the torque specs and found this. http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1342813525

So it looks like 100NM for the M18 sub frame to body mounting bolts.

100N-m converts to 73.5 ft-lb so it would seem you didn't over torque, right?
EDIT: I went to link after writing the above. I see you got the info on the M12x127 is torqued to 74 ft-lb. I guess the noise is "feature" of your car when it hasn't warmed up yet. I bet I couldn't hear it on my car due to loudness of exhaust. We will have to compare :-]

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

100N-m converts to 73.5 ft-lb so it would seem you didn't over torque, right?
EDIT: I went to link after writing the above. I see you got the info on the M12x127 is torqued to 74 ft-lb. I guess the noise is "feature" of your car when it hasn't warmed up yet. I bet I couldn't hear it on my car due to loudness of exhaust. We will have to compare :-]

Lol, so new exhaust or upgraded stereo will solve my issue check! Yeah, its amazing how you begin to worry about the health of a component when you do a mod and your like damn, it wasn't making that noise before. We'll see how some readline and m0s2 treat my diff this weekend.

On the up side, that damn rear end wiggle when I hit a bump on one side of the car seems to be gone with the new rear subframe mounts. Also the monroe's upper shock mounts took care of the extra bounce I get a some big dips.

[kydiesel35]

I just slid in the Rouge Engineering transmission mounts. I think they helped!

The quality in shift is better (firmer); seems like the road noise was reduced a bit as well.

Not a bad mod for $60 and half hour labor! Reluctant at first so far I do not disagree.

[remlemasi]

Originally Posted by kydiesel35

I just slid in the Rouge Engineering transmission mounts. I think they helped!

The quality in shift is better (firmer); seems like the road noise was reduced a bit as well.

Not a bad mod for $60 and half hour labor! Reluctant at first so far I do not disagree.

Did not realize it was that cheap and easy to do. Can you point me to a DIY?

[kydiesel35]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Just wanted to add that I did notice a slight reduction in road surface isolation. There's more energy being transferred to the chassis/seat/backside... Nothing "harsh" or annoying, but was able to notice the increase.

Thanks for the suggestion on this modification.

And I agree 100%.

[kydiesel35]

Originally Posted by remlemasi

Did not realize it was that cheap and easy to do. Can you point me to a DIY?

Greek has a DIY link earlier in this thread. Super easy just a few bolts.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by kydiesel35

And I agree 100%.

I found that over time, either I got used to it, or the bushings got softer, or both. But know I can't really tell much of a difference, other than my diff noise. I still haven't tackled switching the flex disc, but changing the diff fluid made no difference.

[GreekboyD]

Originally Posted by kydiesel35

I just slid in the Rouge Engineering transmission mounts. I think they helped!

The quality in shift is better (firmer); seems like the road noise was reduced a bit as well.

Not a bad mod for $60 and half hour labor! Reluctant at first so far I do not disagree.

Glad to hear man.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

GreekboyD send me a txt I lost your number