DIY: 335d M57 Fuel Injector Replacement

Nadir Point · 08-11-2019, 02:33 PM

People, even experienced mechanics, often overlook this basic diesel fuel system maintenance step, that hasn't changed in 100 years. If they don't do something crazy, it usually fires up after awhile, just takes time to finish pushing the air out. Then they wonder what was the problem. The old mechanical injectors would never clear, because air compresses too much to allow a pop.

XCSC · 09-15-2019, 04:36 PM

Hey, since I found this thread to be one of the most helpful (am currently on my way to get a 3/8" x 10" lag bolt, btw), thought I'd offer some additional info on my technique...

I'm working on a 2011 X5 35d, with a misfire on injector 6.

Bought an ebay knockoff ($66 shipped) of this tool, but couldn't get it to be of any use on injector 6:
https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/563...r---bmw-m47m57

Went to the hardware store w my new injector and started browsing. Ended up with an m12x1.5 bolt about 2-3" long and two nuts. Threaded them onto the injector's HP fuel line attachment:

After about 20 hours of soaking the well surrounding the injector in PB Blaster penetrating oil, I still couldn't get it to budge by prying it w a motorcycle tire iron. I figured the issue was not having the immediate force of a hard blow instead of the slow application in a prying action, so I pulled apart the Sealey clone injector puller tool and positioned two parts comprising one of the horizontal legs onto two bolts going into the cylinder head for support. I then positioned a large (12") crescent wrench on the bolt with the aforementioned injector puller parts as a fulcrum, (said a quick prayer that I wasn't about to smash my fingers with slipping crescent wrench and all this hammering) and wacked the crescent wrench with a deadblow hammer. After a few blows, it finally gave way.

This thing was very stuck (corrosion from the infamous E70 partition leak). Sooooo glad when it finally budged.

The second nut helps if you're trying to pry it off (since you can position your lever point), but totally unnecessary with the hammer technique that finally budged the injector. I'd try prying first, then hammering it out.

Papogator24 · 10-09-2019, 04:36 PM

Got a question. How did you confirm the torque specs with a wrench when installing the pressure line assembly back on the injectors and rail?

apexit4 · 10-10-2019, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papogator24

Got a question. How did you confirm the torque specs with a wrench when installing the pressure line assembly back on the injectors and rail?

There is a special tool used to tighten the nuts on the line that connects the injector to the fuel rail. The tool allows you to use a ratcheting wrench instead of a crescent wrench to loosen/tighten the nuts. It's relatively cheap too, which is why I bought one.

Papogator24 · 10-20-2019, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apexit4

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papogator24

Got a question. How did you confirm the torque specs with a wrench when installing the pressure line assembly back on the injectors and rail?

There is a special tool used to tighten the nuts on the line that connects the injector to the fuel rail. The tool allows you to use a ratcheting wrench instead of a crescent wrench to loosen/tighten the nuts. It's relatively cheap too, which is why I bought one.

Where did you buy yours?

apexit4 · 10-20-2019, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papogator24

Where did you buy yours?

I bought mine through www.getbmwparts.com but there are a few other vendors out there.

The part number for the wrench for removing the hard fuel lines is 83300491277.

There's also a special tool for removing the plastic/rubber overflow fuel lines that attach onto the small nipple on the injector. That part number is 83300495331. I bought both and have been very happy with the investment.

ddinse · 12-27-2019, 09:41 AM

I have pulled the injectors to change out the seals on my 320 cdi but have not pulled injectors on any of my bmw diesels. Mercedes recommends ceramic injector grease when reinserting the injectors. Should it be used when replacing BMW injectors?

Yozh · 12-27-2019, 11:34 PM

Why do you need to grease the injectors. Glow plugs yes. Injectors no. Just don’t flood them with water and you should be good.

ddinse · 12-28-2019, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yozh

Why do you need to grease the injectors. Glow plugs yes. Injectors no. Just don’t flood them with water and you should be good.

Thanks. I appreciate your videos and just subscribed

bmwdiesel · 12-28-2019, 09:02 AM

when I saw ppl covering the holes with paper toilet, I thought I wanted to do the same up until I realized there is a loads of small paper debris coming from it. yozh covered it with tape smartly. also, I might have flooded my injectors tops with water, since I am driving without both plastic covers of the engine, one is on the engine, and one is under the vipers, which is smaller, so I suspect there was some water on my injectors and I am prepared for the worst haha. however, I saw only one old german guy taking of injectors with just SCREWDRIVER, without any special tool that everybody else is using, and I hope that method will help me to remove them when I will change the valve cover gasket

Yozh · 12-31-2019, 02:18 AM

If you had water intrusion, good luck pulling those injectors without a puller. I’ve removed many after water damage and they are not easy even with a slide hammer.

ddinse · 04-13-2020, 12:18 AM

Here's one like Yozh is talking about. Took about 100 good wacks with the puller

Mistercamp · 04-13-2020, 10:52 AM

And if you are using this thread to also do the vcg, be careful with the bolts that attach to the head around the injectors if you have water intrusion. Specifically around 5 and 6 on the e70. They can def snap off and then the bolt extractor can too...Took an m8 timesert plus m8>m6 thread adapter to correct. Oh and then there's the replacement intake from the UK to replace the one you broke when you got pissed of about the broken easy out.

Papogator24 · 04-13-2020, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yozh

If you had water intrusion, good luck pulling those injectors without a puller. I’ve removed many after water damage and they are not easy even with a slide hammer.

Suny? Good to know you're here as well.

sunny_j · 04-14-2020, 03:24 PM

yep mine. they were rusted in there and weren't fun to remove.

RED-d · 04-18-2020, 10:28 PM

Just did my vcg and all vacuum pieces. Even with fuel pump bleed I have no start, will try cracking my fuel lines in the morning during bleed procedure. One huge tip for removing the e6 bolt on the back of the valve cover on 335d. There isn't even room for a 1/4 socket before hitting the firewall. Get yourself a 5mm wrench. Save yourself hours dicking with it.

alex sol · 04-19-2020, 12:22 AM

i struggled to get my D started after replacing motor and all the assorted bits and pieces... helps to have a carly to read the fuel pressure. turns out i was off a quarter turn on hard fuel line 4 or 5 which is very awkward to tighten with regular 17mm wrench - you may put undue pressure on the little plastic fuel hose (return line? i don't know the name of the thing). i ended using a air compressor and found the leak, tightened and started. also struggled with the ground strap that had turned green and brittle. replaced and works fine now..

Nathan S 109 · 11-17-2020, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex sol

i struggled to get my D started after replacing motor and all the assorted bits and pieces... helps to have a carly to read the fuel pressure. turns out i was off a quarter turn on hard fuel line 4 or 5 which is very awkward to tighten with regular 17mm wrench - you may put undue pressure on the little plastic fuel hose (return line? i don't know the name of the thing). i ended using a air compressor and found the leak, tightened and started. also struggled with the ground strap that had turned green and brittle. replaced and works fine now..

Alex Sol, did you have any fuel leaks before you I found the extra turn you needed?

pak84 · 07-12-2021, 08:18 AM

Hi all,
I changed my 5th injector as well. In fact it was refurbished, but it's almost the same. I followed the instructions here, I made the reverse hammer by myself. Thanks to all the persons that I contacted on pm and they naswered me. I'm availble to give advises too in case someone else need help.

Asonchadwick · 11-13-2021, 08:56 PM

I'm sorry which cylinder is cylinder 6 I know it's the one in the back but is the computer telling me the code is for cylinder 6 or the furring order number 6? It says misfire cylinder 6.

335dlci · 11-14-2021, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asonchadwick

I'm sorry which cylinder is cylinder 6 I know it's the one in the back but is the computer telling me the code is for cylinder 6 or the furring order number 6? It says misfire cylinder 6.

It's in order.

Attacking Mid · 02-14-2022, 08:34 PM

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this info is timeless. Thanks for the help with replacing a failing injector on my E70 X5. I happened to have a small Snap-On slide hammer with various attachments that made quick work of removing the injector. I used a little Permatex anti-seize on the outside of the body of the new injector. The instructions were perfect to help me code in the new 7-digit code for my new injector. The BMW document telling how to reset the adaptations was a little tougher to decipher, as it didn't match with my version of ISTA+. I eventually got there and all is good now. I did run the fuel system bleed procedure in ISTA, though I'm not sure it did much good. When I finally pushed the start button, it cranked for maybe a minute before lighting up and running like a sewing machine. All appears to be well with my diesel now. Thanks for your help!

AM.

08-11-2019, 02:33 PM	#23
Nadir Point Lieutenant 110 Rep 596 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO iTrader: (0)	People, even experienced mechanics, often overlook this basic diesel fuel system maintenance step, that hasn't changed in 100 years. If they don't do something crazy, it usually fires up after awhile, just takes time to finish pushing the air out. Then they wonder what was the problem. The old mechanical injectors would never clear, because air compresses too much to allow a pop.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-15-2019, 04:36 PM	#24
XCSC Registered 3 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 2011 X5 35d Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: SF iTrader: (0)	Hey, since I found this thread to be one of the most helpful (am currently on my way to get a 3/8" x 10" lag bolt, btw), thought I'd offer some additional info on my technique... I'm working on a 2011 X5 35d, with a misfire on injector 6. Bought an ebay knockoff ($66 shipped) of this tool, but couldn't get it to be of any use on injector 6: https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/563...r---bmw-m47m57 Went to the hardware store w my new injector and started browsing. Ended up with an m12x1.5 bolt about 2-3" long and two nuts. Threaded them onto the injector's HP fuel line attachment: After about 20 hours of soaking the well surrounding the injector in PB Blaster penetrating oil, I still couldn't get it to budge by prying it w a motorcycle tire iron. I figured the issue was not having the immediate force of a hard blow instead of the slow application in a prying action, so I pulled apart the Sealey clone injector puller tool and positioned two parts comprising one of the horizontal legs onto two bolts going into the cylinder head for support. I then positioned a large (12") crescent wrench on the bolt with the aforementioned injector puller parts as a fulcrum, (said a quick prayer that I wasn't about to smash my fingers with slipping crescent wrench and all this hammering) and wacked the crescent wrench with a deadblow hammer. After a few blows, it finally gave way. This thing was very stuck (corrosion from the infamous E70 partition leak). Sooooo glad when it finally budged. The second nut helps if you're trying to pry it off (since you can position your lever point), but totally unnecessary with the hammer technique that finally budged the injector. I'd try prying first, then hammering it out.
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10-09-2019, 04:36 PM	#25
Papogator24 Private 19 Rep 69 Posts Drives: BMW X5 3.5i Join Date: May 2019 Location: Miami iTrader: (0)	Got a question. How did you confirm the torque specs with a wrench when installing the pressure line assembly back on the injectors and rail? __________________ 2013 X5 35i 2011 335d - Deleted and Tuned by BRR 2008 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab
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12-27-2019, 09:41 AM	#29
ddinse Private 5 Rep 62 Posts Drives: bmw 328d x drive Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: PA iTrader: (0)	Dumb question I have pulled the injectors to change out the seals on my 320 cdi but have not pulled injectors on any of my bmw diesels. Mercedes recommends ceramic injector grease when reinserting the injectors. Should it be used when replacing BMW injectors?
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12-27-2019, 11:34 PM	#30
Yozh Colonel 880 Rep 2,611 Posts Drives: 2011 335d M-Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Wet Coast iTrader: (4)	Why do you need to grease the injectors. Glow plugs yes. Injectors no. Just don’t flood them with water and you should be good.
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12-28-2019, 09:02 AM	#32
bmwdiesel Private 19 Rep 84 Posts Drives: 335d 2007 Join Date: May 2018 Location: old continent iTrader: (0)	when I saw ppl covering the holes with paper toilet, I thought I wanted to do the same up until I realized there is a loads of small paper debris coming from it. yozh covered it with tape smartly. also, I might have flooded my injectors tops with water, since I am driving without both plastic covers of the engine, one is on the engine, and one is under the vipers, which is smaller, so I suspect there was some water on my injectors and I am prepared for the worst haha. however, I saw only one old german guy taking of injectors with just SCREWDRIVER, without any special tool that everybody else is using, and I hope that method will help me to remove them when I will change the valve cover gasket
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-31-2019, 02:18 AM	#33
Yozh Colonel 880 Rep 2,611 Posts Drives: 2011 335d M-Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Wet Coast iTrader: (4)	If you had water intrusion, good luck pulling those injectors without a puller. I’ve removed many after water damage and they are not easy even with a slide hammer.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-13-2020, 12:18 AM	#34
ddinse Private 5 Rep 62 Posts Drives: bmw 328d x drive Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: PA iTrader: (0)	Here's one like Yozh is talking about. Took about 100 good wacks with the puller Attached Images
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04-13-2020, 10:52 AM	#35
Mistercamp Enlisted Member 6 Rep 46 Posts Drives: 2010 X5 35d Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: That one place iTrader: (0)	And if you are using this thread to also do the vcg, be careful with the bolts that attach to the head around the injectors if you have water intrusion. Specifically around 5 and 6 on the e70. They can def snap off and then the bolt extractor can too...Took an m8 timesert plus m8>m6 thread adapter to correct. Oh and then there's the replacement intake from the UK to replace the one you broke when you got pissed of about the broken easy out. Last edited by Mistercamp; 04-13-2020 at 11:03 AM..
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04-14-2020, 03:24 PM	#37
sunny_j Lieutenant 220 Rep 437 Posts Drives: 2012 X5d Join Date: May 2012 Location: Vancouver, British Columbia iTrader: (0)	yep mine. they were rusted in there and weren't fun to remove. __________________ 2012 X5d \| Deleted & BRR Tuned \| DWR TCU Tune \| 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen Build Thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1529213
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04-18-2020, 10:28 PM	#38
RED-d Private First Class 29 Rep 189 Posts Drives: 2010 335d Sport, Tuned Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: SWFL iTrader: (0)	Just did my vcg and all vacuum pieces. Even with fuel pump bleed I have no start, will try cracking my fuel lines in the morning during bleed procedure. One huge tip for removing the e6 bolt on the back of the valve cover on 335d. There isn't even room for a 1/4 socket before hitting the firewall. Get yourself a 5mm wrench. Save yourself hours dicking with it.
	Appreciate 1 Papogator2418.50 Quote

04-19-2020, 12:22 AM	#39
alex sol Second Lieutenant 32 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	i struggled to get my D started after replacing motor and all the assorted bits and pieces... helps to have a carly to read the fuel pressure. turns out i was off a quarter turn on hard fuel line 4 or 5 which is very awkward to tighten with regular 17mm wrench - you may put undue pressure on the little plastic fuel hose (return line? i don't know the name of the thing). i ended using a air compressor and found the leak, tightened and started. also struggled with the ground strap that had turned green and brittle. replaced and works fine now..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-12-2021, 08:18 AM	#41
pak84 New Member 3 Rep 12 Posts Drives: X3 e83 Join Date: May 2021 Location: far iTrader: (0)	Hi all, I changed my 5th injector as well. In fact it was refurbished, but it's almost the same. I followed the instructions here, I made the reverse hammer by myself. Thanks to all the persons that I contacted on pm and they naswered me. I'm availble to give advises too in case someone else need help.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-13-2021, 08:56 PM	#42
Asonchadwick Sleepy 76 Rep 367 Posts Drives: bmw Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: usa iTrader: (0)	I'm sorry which cylinder is cylinder 6 I know it's the one in the back but is the computer telling me the code is for cylinder 6 or the furring order number 6? It says misfire cylinder 6.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

02-14-2022, 08:34 PM	#44
Attacking Mid Private 36 Rep 66 Posts Drives: e46, e53, e83, e70 Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Colorado iTrader: (0)	Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this info is timeless. Thanks for the help with replacing a failing injector on my E70 X5. I happened to have a small Snap-On slide hammer with various attachments that made quick work of removing the injector. I used a little Permatex anti-seize on the outside of the body of the new injector. The instructions were perfect to help me code in the new 7-digit code for my new injector. The BMW document telling how to reset the adaptations was a little tougher to decipher, as it didn't match with my version of ISTA+. I eventually got there and all is good now. I did run the fuel system bleed procedure in ISTA, though I'm not sure it did much good. When I finally pushed the start button, it cranked for maybe a minute before lighting up and running like a sewing machine. All appears to be well with my diesel now. Thanks for your help! AM.
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