[sambonator]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Nah, you have to buy them separately. $500 I believe.

Regarding the ride height, are you going for optimum performance or compromising on looks?

Lowering a car, all else equal, will often INCREASE roll.

http://e30m3performance.com/myths/We..._transfer2.htm

That's why I minimized my "drop".

My drop is probably about 3/4 to 1 inch in the front.
I'd like more roll actually... the TEIN springs are very stiff, and I don't think it allows enough roll to really load up the outside tires and take advantage of the negative camber I have set up.

The front springs are 392 lbs/in, and rears are 671 lbs/in. I may opt to swap the springs out for ones from their "EuroDamper" setup, with 280 lbs/in front and 392 lbs/in rear. They recommend I get the shocks revalved though, rather than just using the softer shock settings.

[leftcoastman]

Wow that is a massive differential between front and rear.

What's your camber setting? On track, I run about -3.5 and my 400fr/500rear springs are just perfect, imo.

[shimshimhada]

Originally Posted by S4to335

No..wouldnt they be too tall? I had that bulgy tire look when someone puts the wrong tire on their car. Cant have that..and dont want to rub.

Really? Shouldn't be too tall. Unless you're slammed or something. But a good amount of camber should resolve any issues.

Dunno how tall Toyos run though, so I have no clue.

[sambonator]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Wow that is a massive differential between front and rear.

What's your camber setting? On track, I run about -3.5 and my 400fr/500rear springs are just perfect, imo.

That sounds about right for spring rates. I'm not sure what my camber angle is at the max setting I run. I'll have to measure it. I'm thinking slightly softer than 400/500 spring rates are best for the autocross courses, to allow more loading to the outside tires.

I want to start hitting the big tracks soon... ...

but I worry about overheating with my 6AT...