[Tiago@VRSF]

If you're not interested in trimming we offer a 5" stepped option that replaces the restrictive 1.8" connectors with larger 2.75" connectors. If you're going to race the car, our 7" or 7" HD is going to be your best bet.

http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-7-front...2-e90-e92.html

[ANMVQ]

Originally Posted by velociti

For a 5", I'm drawing a blank. The VRSF stepped version might be a bit more effective, but non-stock connections. VRSF's 7" looks killer for the price, but I'm pretty sure that requires cutting, and it might not be ideal for cars with basic mods -- seems like it's a better option for FBO or hybrid turbo builds. The Wagner looks to be a bit more efficient than the AA since it's stepped, but at almost 50% greater cost. For daily drivers like me, the AA seems perfect.

I guess depeneds but if we are looking for a upgraded FMIC then we all are over the stock PSI, Tiago said the stock connectors will leak at some point and are small t 1.8 inches. So maybe it's better that is you are over stock PSI of at last 6-10 PSI over then you should look at ones without the stock connectors?

[Tiago@VRSF]

The 7" is ideal for cars running the stock turbo. If you're upgrading turbos it's recommended to go with the 7" HD which is a denser core.

The AA/Mishimoto (identical designs) are almost the same size as the OEM intercooler. In order to take advantage of the increased airflow when running higher boost levels you really need to get away from the OEM connectors and you have to increase the overall size of the intercooler in order to aid with flow and cooling. Surface area is king.

[velociti]

Originally Posted by ANMVQ

I guess depeneds but if we are looking for a upgraded FMIC then we all are over the stock PSI, Tiago said the stock connectors will leak at some point and are small t 1.8 inches. So maybe it's better that is you are over stock PSI of at last 6-10 PSI over then you should look at ones without the stock connectors?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that VRSF is the only (or one of the few) company(s) that use larger-than-OEM connectors. Definitely agree with Tiago's point that the stepped solution offers more volume but I'd love to see evidence of leaking above 16psi on other aftermarket solutions. It was all about price for me, by the way. If a VRSF 5" was available for what I paid for the AA one I would have gone VRSF for sure. Margins are going to be small either way, though, and still a massive improvement over stock.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by velociti

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that VRSF is the only (or one of the few) company(s) that use larger-than-OEM connectors. Definitely agree with Tiago's point that the stepped solution offers more volume but I'd love to see evidence of leaking above 16psi on other aftermarket solutions. It was all about price for me, by the way. If a VRSF 5" was available for what I paid for the AA one I would have gone VRSF for sure. Margins are going to be small either way, though, and still a massive improvement over stock.

It's not just the VRSF intercoolers that use upgraded connectors. Helix, Wagner EVO 2, AA Race, CPE, ADE, Cobb, ER, Forge and AMS all use upgraded connectors. There's a few more but I'm just listing the ones I know off the top of my head.

The generic knock offs that are rebranded all use a variant of Wagner's original intercooler which featured OEM connector. It's now one of Wagner's least selling designs after they upgraded to the larger connector found in the EVO 2 intercoolers.

[velociti]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

It's not just the VRSF intercoolers that use upgraded connectors. Helix, Wagner EVO 2, AA Race, CPE, ADE, Cobb, ER, Forge and AMS all use upgraded connectors. There's a few more but I'm just listing the ones I know off the top of my head.

The generic knock offs that are rebranded all use a variant of Wagner's original intercooler which featured OEM connector. It's now one of Wagner's least selling designs after they upgraded to the larger connector found in the EVO 2 intercoolers.

Shows how much I know...thanks, Tiago!

[Mikaeldarer]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

The 7" is ideal for cars running the stock turbo. If you're upgrading turbos it's recommended to go with the 7" HD which is a denser core.

The AA/Mishimoto (identical designs) are almost the same size as the OEM intercooler. In order to take advantage of the increased airflow when running higher boost levels you really need to get away from the OEM connectors and you have to increase the overall size of the intercooler in order to aid with flow and cooling. Surface area is king.

AA/Mishimoto are almost same size as stock, BUT intake temps around 30 degrees cooler than stock

Originally Posted by olivojoe

Have you installed it yet? Mine (5"stepped VRSF) required cutting off and removal of the sock connectors. If I remember right, I had to replace the J pipe on the intake side, and remove the stock C clip and rubber boot (destructively) from the turbo side. I installed mine well over a year ago though, so maybe they have revised the design.
Edit: Sorry, forgot to reply to OP. I know when I was shopping around the Mishimoto FMIC used stock connections, but again it is very pricey.

Also, looks like all VRSF FMIC's require trimming as they all use silicon couplers. Which means you have to hack up your OEM chargepipes

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by Mikaeldarer

AA/Mishimoto are almost same size as stock, BUT intake temps around 30 degrees cooler than stock

Also, looks like all VRSF FMIC's require trimming as they all use silicon couplers. Which means you have to hack up your OEM chargepipes

You don't hack up any charge pipes. You remove a one time use band clamp from the hot side. It takes less than 10 minute and is 100% reversible.

If you do a 2-4 gear pull on either the AA/Mishi intercooler you're going to have less intake temp than OEM but you'll still pull timing because your intake temps will sky rocket.

The smaller the intercooler, the faster it will heat soak. A 2nd gear pull might be 30 degrees less than OEM but a 4th gear pull is going to hit 150 where the DME WILL pull timing.

[Mikaeldarer]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

You don't hack up any charge pipes. You remove a one time use band clamp from the hot side. It takes less than 10 minute and is 100% reversible.

If you do a 2-4 gear pull on either the AA/Mishi intercooler you're going to have less intake temp than OEM but you'll still pull timing because your intake temps will sky rocket.

The smaller the intercooler, the faster it will heat soak. A 2nd gear pull might be 30 degrees less than OEM but a 4th gear pull is going to hit 150 where the DME WILL pull timing.

Good to know about it being reversible!

Not sure where you got your information on Mishimoto intercooler. Biggest increase in IAT's on logs below is 97 to 115 degrees from a 3rd to 4th gear run. 3rd gear run's are about the same with an increase of about 15 degrees. Temp outside was in the 70's to low 80's.

http://datazap.me/u/mikaeldarer/wedg...=2&data=5-8-14
http://datazap.me/u/mikaeldarer/wedg...=1&data=5-8-14

[Tiago@VRSF]

The first log shows a 3rd gear pull that's less than 3000 RPMS long. It's not a full gear pull let alone a 3-4 gear pull. The person cruised until 2800rpm before they got on boost and went WOT.

The second log is even worse, the pull goes from 3700-6500rpm. In order get a full comparable log you have to do a pull from 1500 RPM to red line.

[Mikaeldarer]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

The first log shows a 3rd gear pull that's less than 3000 RPMS long. It's not a full gear pull let alone a 3-4 gear pull. The person cruised until 2800rpm before they got on boost and went WOT.

The second log is even worse, the pull goes from 3700-6500rpm. In order get a full comparable log you have to do a pull from 1500 RPM to red line.

Unless this is something new, no one starts WOT logs below 2500 especially in higher gears... I will get a 3rd gear tonight starting at 1500-2k because I am sure 500 rpm will greatly affect results

2nd log starts at 3k if you check accel pedal btw

Here is better 3rd-4th: http://datazap.me/u/mikaeldarer/wedg...ata=2-5-8-9-15

[Tiago@VRSF]

We always start a log right around 2500 and end at redline. If you can get a 3-4 gear pull where you start at 2500 and end at redline in both gears

[titium]

fyi for anyone interested I've run the Wagner evo 1 performance on track after 2x 20min sessions intake temps just touched 140F right at the end of the second session.

for the most part temps were sitting in the mid 110's and around 130F at the end of the main straight (just got in to 5th gear).

around 86F ambient. (n54 mhd stage 2).

[ANMVQ]

If I'm correct Tiago is asking for 3 to the end of 4th gear pull, not a 3rd and 4th gear pull.
Start in 3rd at 2500 and shift to 4th at redline and run 4th out to redline. Not sure where you'll have enough road to go over 130 without traffic :/

[houtan]

Originally Posted by Mikaeldarer

Also, looks like all VRSF FMIC's require trimming as they all use silicon couplers. Which means you have to hack up your OEM chargepipes

Not sure why people keep saying you have to hack up your pipes. It is ONE hose clamp and I even provided instructions on how to remove it. It is honestly very simple to remove.

[Mikaeldarer]

Originally Posted by ANMVQ

If I'm correct Tiago is asking for 3 to the end of 4th gear pull, not a 3rd and 4th gear pull.
Start in 3rd at 2500 and shift to 4th at redline and run 4th out to redline. Not sure where you'll have enough road to go over 130 without traffic :/

Correct, the first log I posted I shifted early in 3rd and did not pull 4th to redline. I edited my last post and added a 3rd-4th log that is better, but let off at 6k in 4th. So still may not be comparable.

Originally Posted by houtan

Not sure why people keep saying you have to hack up your pipes. It is ONE hose clamp and I even provided instructions on how to remove it. It is honestly very simple to remove.

Sorry, did not mean to spread misinformation!

[ANMVQ]

[QUOTE=Mikaeldarer;21340391]Correct, the first log I posted I shifted early in 3rd and did not pull 4th to redline. I edited my last post and added a 3rd-4th log that is better, but let off at 6k in 4th. So still may not be comparable.


Ah my fault man misted that :/ I just looked at the other one ends at 122. I should have some of these this spring, I need to wait for warmer weather. I'll also post a log of the MAFgl's my stock intake box with foam drop in and the BMS intake. Right now my foam drop in and stock box I', seeing 315+

[velociti]

I'm not sure there's any doubt that the greater surface area of the VRSF 5" stepped is more effective than the non-stepped AA/Mishimoto and has more overhead for higher power applications and/or track use. But there are some folks who will find the AA/Mishimoto sufficient for spirited daily driving and far better than stock, even if they're not quite as effective as the stepped variants.

[feuer]

Why not ARM 5" stepped IC for $350 shipped:
http://www.armmotorsports.com/N54-N5...p/335-fmic.htm

[Boosted2000Si]

Damnit so which intercooler is the best sub $500 on an n55 to make it FBO lol

[D's Bimmer]

My head is spinning with all of these options!!!!!!

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

The 7" is ideal for cars running the stock turbo. If you're upgrading turbos it's recommended to go with the 7" HD which is a denser core.

I have been having a lot of trouble deciding between the 5" and 7" FMIC. What's the pressure drop difference between the 5" and 7" FMIC? Does it matter enough on a stock turbo? What if you have a tune on the stock turbo? I don't know much about how the FMIC affects the driving experience beyond that an efficient cooler makes multiple hard pulls more consistent.