[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by AlexN

The NVH that guy is having is most likely due to the fact that he used solid aluminium DIFF bushings.
The OP has the purple powerflex which are much more forgiving and based on reviews I've seen for these bushings in the E9X M3 forums, the added NVH with these should be minimal

As for the driveshaft vibrations, keep in mind that you could always have a custom carbon fiber driveshaft made by The DriveShaft Shop.
It's pricey, but its a lighter, stronger, 1 piece DS...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=322

Yes I agree and had stated that also Re the powerflex mounts I was curious on feedback on these bushes as you had stated most M3 guys state that they provide minimal NVH whereas the solid diff mounts are pretty horrible on a DD.

I've invested $1k+ into my existing driveshaft (shaft was $150, original shop charged $750, then rebalancing was $275) it's 95% OK now just not perfect...

I was actually thinking about the YCW/M factory cf prop (much cheaper then the DSS piece!)

Originally Posted by neuroclast

No NVH so far, and no vibrations. What color paint mark was on your M3 diff? Did you use the proper hardware to balance it based on the paint mark color?

With help from a fellow forum member I had posted up this info on the forums (I'm assuming thats how you're aware of the M3 balancing diff markings?)

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19483010

I have to disassemble the car (remove exhaust etc) to check the diff flange, but the shop who performed the work originally couldn't see any diff markings when they were attempting to diagnose the vibrations I was totally unaware of this and had only discovered the significance of a mere paint mark on the diff flange when discussing my issues with a fellow forum member and he had discovered this info in the BMW ISTA. Before installation I may have inadvertently removed this mark during cleaning and painting of the diff housing as a lot of my M3 pieces had corrosion etc

I've purchased the bolts, just haven't gotten around to trying to remove diff flange bolts placing in a balanced bolt and taking for a drive checking improvements etc



The black and green bolts are counterbalance bolts, whereas the silver is a normal ///M diff flange bolt.

It seems the only difference is the thread is longer on the counterbalance bolts (I'm guessing they're actually lighter than normal bolts) and are applied in the plane of imbalance. I'll have to weigh them in the wifeys kitchen scales to confirm! If thats the only difference you would have to agree that its a highly balanced unit!!

All the BMW indy workshops I had discussed this with had never heard of it, my local BMW dealership wasnt aware of it (the master tech said they're a one time use bolts so if they have to drop the diff or prop the install new bolts and discard the old ones), and I was the first person in australia to order these bolts...

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by titium

ediff stays on even with traction control completely off. The only way to turn it off is to code it.

As I said 100 bucks. Glad I did it.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

That extra 60 to 80 will make your car fly, and will likely be enough. If you mean differential fluid I went with Redline when I had the LSD installed. And again at 300 miles.

The coding is under 100 bucks, and we'll worth not needing to constantly turn the DSC off.

You were charged $100 to code out the ediff?

[pinder91]

This is an excellent thread! I've had this on my to-do list for quite some time and this is much easier to follow. Thanks for posting!

[JoeyH335i]

Damn son! Great job!

Gotta ask questions later....

[Traf]

Hahaha, i did it too dawg !

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by neuroclast

No NVH so far, and no vibrations. What color paint mark was on your M3 diff? Did you use the proper hardware to balance it based on the paint mark color?

All this sounds a bit confusing
so if you get a white marked diff do you have to worry about the balancing portion and hardware?

Also what is the full cost of this? Mfactory is about to have a group buy lsd is going to cost around 1600

[feuer]

I have been considering this mod but decided against it mainly because the M LSD will be used and if not needing immediate rebuild it will need one soon.

[6ixSpd]

Great job! Swapping the E46 M3 rear end was a huge benefit on my E46 non-M back in the day, I can only imagine the benefits on a car with triple the HP/TQ...

With the help of a friend I also put a LSD in my previous 335i. Fun job... lol.

Don't forget to code out your E-diff stuff as it will prevent you from benefiting from the LSD fully.

[Theconnman2]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Did you have any vibrations at all? Unfortunately I had a massive saga with my M3 driveline install the shop who performed the dirveshaft swap checked balanicing twice but it still vibrated. I had it sent to another workshop who found it to be out slightly and this made a huge improvement but still not 100% vibration free...

How do you find the diff bushings, lots of guys state that these cause lots of extra NVH.

This was on the N5X enthusiasts FB page a few days ago

https://www.facebook.com/INEVERL0SE/...0796188438694/

Another thing to check is the make sure your ceternal support bearing is correctly installed. Whether that be with an m3 bearing and spacers or the 335i bearing orientated correctly

[Traf]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

All this sounds a bit confusing
so if you get a white marked diff do you have to worry about the balancing portion and hardware?

Also what is the full cost of this? Mfactory is about to have a group buy lsd is going to cost around 1600

That is probably without the install ?

[Theconnman2]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

All this sounds a bit confusing
so if you get a white marked diff do you have to worry about the balancing portion and hardware?

Also what is the full cost of this? Mfactory is about to have a group buy lsd is going to cost around 1600

BMW literature on the different weights needed to balence the diff.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1231461

[07tundra]

Originally Posted by Traf

That is probably without the install ?

yes but I do all my work so 1600 isn't bad at all, is the M3 setup less? It definitely sounds like it's more of an upgrade

[Traf]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

yes but I do all my work so 1600 isn't bad at all, is the M3 setup less? It definitely sounds like it's more of an upgrade

Total cost was around 1450€ for me.

[ucsbwsr]

$100 for the shaft work? Dirt cheap.

My E60 M5 shaft was $175 but ended up costing $550 to have it lengthened and rebuilt.

Evan

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have been considering this mod but decided against it mainly because the M LSD will be used and if not needing immediate rebuild it will need one soon.

Are the parts available to even rebuild them?

I managed to get an extremely low mileage example, and I dont do big kays in my car so I expect it to last a long time. There are lots of M3's with decent kays on the original LSD, but I know of a guy who has 2 diffs change dunder warranty in his M3

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

You were charged $100 to code out the ediff?

About 69 bucks. Had another thing done also, the climate recirculate. I no longer need to click one of the buttons as flow through was the default, remembering my last setting be darned. It's always hot here in Tejas, so I always want it on recirculate.

I made a few runs yesterday after doing the eDiff coding. No more herky jerky feeling out back. So far the fix works as intended.

[FEDE/E92]

My E92 come stock with 3.46, which M3 diff should I use 3.15 or 3.85?

[jellish]

Originally Posted by FEDE/E92

My E92 come stock with 3.46, which M3 diff should I use 3.15 or 3.85?

Depends on if you want taller or shorter gears. Completely up to you. 3.15 will make your acceleration slower, but better traction down low and longer low gears. 3.85 will make your lower gears even shorter and traction harder to come by, but get you up to speed faster if you can put the power down.

[AlexN]

Originally Posted by 07tundra

Also what is the full cost of this? Mfactory is about to have a group buy lsd is going to cost around 1600

With an aftermarket diff, you'll still have to pay a machine shop to install the diff in the pumpkin and you'll still keep the weaker 335 axles and driveshaft.

A very big benefit to go with the M3 diff is the fact that you can eventually part it out and sell it as a bolt on kit and make most of your money back. (you'll just need a new 335i DS)

Originally Posted by FEDE/E92

My E92 come stock with 3.46, which M3 diff should I use 3.15 or 3.85?

you're lucky as you can choose.
MT guys can only use the 3.15 which will shorten the gears a bit
335is DCT guys (2.56 ratio) will need to open the diff up and change the final gear

[07tundra]

I just scored M3 diff, axles, and DS for $1,100 i think thats reasonable and I have just like everything else will do all the work myself

[vtl]

Add me to the club, finally got mine in 2 weeks ago, here my thread if anyone is interested (mines an E82 135i manual):

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1148814

Lot of stuffing around but its great to have an LSD in the car.