[Velocity26]

When you restore power, you should be able to get the LPFP to run and you will see fuel wetting the area pretty quickly if there is a leak. If not, you will see the leak when you get the engine running and it sends 2,500 PSI fuel through the lines.

[Vik778]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

When you restore power, you should be able to get the LPFP to run and you will see fuel wetting the area pretty quickly if there is a leak. If not, you will see the leak when you get the engine running and it sends 2,500 PSI fuel through the lines.

I doubt turning on lpfp will do anything, it just lead to hpfp right? I think I will look for the mushroomed seal anjuna mentioned.

[Velocity26]

If the HPFP is not working, it is an open design that allows the LPFP to provide enough pressure (~75 psi) to the injectors to allow you to drive the car. I am sure that you will have the "reduced power mode" but people have reported the ability to drive on the interstate. You definitely will have pressure at the injectors without the need to start the engine.

[dyezak]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

If the HPFP is not working, it is an open design that allows the LPFP to provide enough pressure (~75 psi) to the injectors to allow you to drive the car. I am sure that you will have the "reduced power mode" but people have reported the ability to drive on the interstate. You definitely will have pressure at the injectors without the need to start the engine.

^^He's right you know gif

[anjuna]

Originally Posted by Vik778

I doubt turning on lpfp will do anything, it just lead to hpfp right? I think I will look for the mushroomed seal anjuna mentioned.

If you have a poor metal to metal seal, low pressure won't expose the problem. Pressure is what will force a fluid through an imperfection, bad seal, etc etc.

If you don't have pressure, you won't see a leak while the system is sealed up. 75psi is NOTHING compared to ~1500psi (common DI pressure).

I suggest you do a visual inspection of the sealing components on the hard lines. If there's nothing funny showing up in the sealing area/surface and none of the lines are funky on removal, just replace them all.

Ignore the comments about your insulation being thin on the wires in that area. Of course they are. There was a fucking fire there. Heat and insulation are not friends and I severely doubt that any wiring would have gotten hot enough there to start a fire - that's what fuses are for.

It's definitely possible you had a small leak, a small fire as the gas possibly hit the exhaust manifold, then a small fire that was generally contained until it heated the oil cap/sealing material past ignition temperature. You would have smelled gas before this happened and the leak would have been pre-existing, but not leaked all the way down to something hot enough to ignite it.

[rick100]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Used Car Lemon Law Fact Sheet

The Used Car Lemon law provides a legal remedy for consumers who are buyers or lessees of used cars that turn out to be lemons. The law requires dealers to give consumers a written warranty. Under this warranty, dealers must repair, free of charge, any defect in covered parts. If the dealer is unable to repair the car after a reasonable number of attempts, the consumer is entitled to a full refund.

https://ag.ny.gov/consumer-frauds/us...law-fact-sheet
https://ag.ny.gov/sites/default/file...Guide_2011.pdf

I would assume the car creating the fire does not allow the dealer to use the damage by fire exception.

highly doubt lemon law applies for heavily modify cars
If I sold you a stock 335 (which most respectable dealers do) and you decided to modify the shit out of and then came back to me crying because something broke , I would tell you to go cry somewhere else, no sympathy there.

In Op case , I guess the ex owner had probably modified the car already , so its a whole different story

As per insurance claim op , if you are going to put full coverage and then try to claim it , make sure you put the car back to stock , as the insurance will have an inspector/mechanic take a detail look of your car , and they will find out you are running a modified car, they may even cancel your insurance and deny all coverage.
Usually they don't really look too much into this , but since fire was involved and it could've been a lot worse , I m sure they will look at every single detail. They may even want to write off the car if they can not find the cause of the issue. For insurance it will be cheaper than risking another fire incidence which could cause a more serious damage

I personally would not even drive the car until I m 100% what cause the fire is fix.

[Velocity26]

If the pressure cracked a line, the line will seep with minimal pressure and 70psi would me more than enough.

[ATLIEN]

Originally Posted by Vik778

Thanks, and I don't have full coverage, so I doubt they will do anything. Should I switch now or is that a bad idea lol

If your previous car(s) have physical damage then you have 14 days to notify your insurer of your need to add physical damage. If you don't carry physical damage on any vehicles then you get 4 days with a $500 ded.

[Zooligan]

If mine ever catches fire, im letting it go and just starting over.

While mine is pristine in and out, I'm not sure I would want the headache after a fire and I would probably be paranoid about every sound and smell.

[Vik778]

So, I took it to a shop today, he looked it over, we started the car, car idles fine and has no fuel or oil leaks... Could not find the cause of the fire. The mechanic said to replace injectors, wire harness, some plastics, and the vacuum tubes that melted. However, I am worried that we could not find the cause of the fire. Was going to go to MNC Performance in long island so they could fix the car, but my tow guy could not do it today so I had him tow me to a nearby shop in Brooklyn. The mechanic said I need new injectors due to the plugs on them melting. All 6 injectors have melted plugs, and from what I remember, they are like 250 dollars each on ECS. Does anyone know where I can find some index 12 or 11 injectors cheaper? I haven't looked into it yet, but can anyone explain how to find out what index my injectors are? also what do I use to code them in?

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Vik778

So, I took it to a shop today, he looked it over, we started the car, car idles fine and has no fuel or oil leaks... Could not find the cause of the fire. The mechanic said to replace injectors, wire harness, some plastics, and the vacuum tubes that melted. However, I am worried that we could not find the cause of the fire. Was going to go to MNC Performance in long island so they could fix the car, but my tow guy could not do it today so I had him tow me to a nearby shop in Brooklyn. The mechanic said I need new injectors due to the plugs on them melting. All 6 injectors have melted plugs, and from what I remember, they are like 250 dollars each on ECS. Does anyone know where I can find some index 12 or 11 injectors cheaper? I haven't looked into it yet, but can anyone explain how to find out what index my injectors are? also what do I use to code them in?

There are normally a set or two of used injectors for sale on the forum classifieds if you need to save money.

[Kevinl]

I'd scrap the car

[Velocity26]

If you cannot find a leak in the fuel system, and the valve cover is not cracked or leaking, you likely spilled some oil when adding oil (or the shop that did you last oil change) and that will make it's way into the head.

Since your damage seems centered around the fill cap, it is one of the few scenarios that fit the resulting damage.

[V8bait]

I've seen these cars go up for only a few reasons. WW meth when the filler neck leaks (which is inevitable if you're running WW kit because of Murphy's law), HPFP injector lines/fittings (looks like the case here), and meth cars with high concentration mixes injected before the bov, seen a few doing burnouts and purging into flames. Fuel rails can leak after a replacement, can crack, I think I've seen 2 or 3 failures like yours. All without engine covers. FWIW I believe the engine cover material is designed as a fire suppressant, like it melts and smothers the fire or something.

It's highly unlikely oil was the source of the fire. While it'll burn, it's really, really hard to ignite. Go try to lite some oil on fire with a match if you don't believe me. You'll need a torch and a little free time.

[Velocity26]

I have no idea what ignited the oil, but oil WILL burn. We would make springs by filling a cylinder with oil, inserting a wound wire, then lighting the oil on fire. It will burn to the end without fail. It is like a tire, it is not the easiest thing to ignite, but it will burn well once ignited.

[marmit2017]

This is probably due to one of their recent recalls, prob the pcv wiring. What did you do with the car?

[EndOfAnEra]

wat

[RocketSurgeon]

PCV heater recall is only on the n52, not the n54. The 335i has the blower motor issue, which is inside the car. This was almost certainly a gasoline fire. Synthetic motor oil needs to be over 350 degrees to sustain a flame, and the auto ignition temp is over 750 degrees. Plus you would have a big goopy oil mess all over everything. Gasoline was leaking from somewhere.

[Vik778]

Kind of a really late update, but I never did find the source of that fire, got injectors under warranty, new valve cover, and a used wiring harness for 100$, and other little pieces here and there. I checked all the connections on the fuel rail when doing the VC and they all looked fine, car is at 80k miles atm and hasn't had a fire since. *knocks on wood*

[cortez08]

Glad you are okay and the car survived. I just put an extinguisher in my car last week. Definitely Worth the 40 bucks for piece of mind after reading your post.

I would be interested in how that hard line looked going into that injector. Injector could have been loose or line was possibly bumped while other work was being performed. Guess we will never know. I would at least keep an eye on the injectors and fittings to make sure everything is tight. I do that on my car routinely. Maybe I missed it but I assume the hard lines were replaced.

[turbohugh]

Originally Posted by Vik778

So, I took it to a shop today, he looked it over, we started the car, car idles fine and has no fuel or oil leaks... Could not find the cause of the fire. The mechanic said to replace injectors, wire harness, some plastics, and the vacuum tubes that melted. However, I am worried that we could not find the cause of the fire. Was going to go to MNC Performance in long island so they could fix the car, but my tow guy could not do it today so I had him tow me to a nearby shop in Brooklyn. The mechanic said I need new injectors due to the plugs on them melting. All 6 injectors have melted plugs, and from what I remember, they are like 250 dollars each on ECS. Does anyone know where I can find some index 12 or 11 injectors cheaper? I haven't looked into it yet, but can anyone explain how to find out what index my injectors are? also what do I use to code them in?

FCP Euro

[Vik778]

Originally Posted by cortez08

Glad you are okay and the car survived. I just put an extinguisher in my car last week. Definitely Worth the 40 bucks for piece of mind after reading your post.

I would be interested in how that hard line looked going into that injector. Injector could have been loose or line was possibly bumped while other work was being performed. Guess we will never know. I would at least keep an eye on the injectors and fittings to make sure everything is tight. I do that on my car routinely. Maybe I missed it but I assume the hard lines were replaced.

Thank you, where did you mount your extinguisher? I got full coverage instead haha, if there is a next time i'll just get out and get some popcorn(jk lol I love her). However, the odd thing is no work was preformed on the car previously, the last time the injectors or lines were touched (as of my knowledge) was when some of the injectors and HPFP were replaced by the previous owner at a dealer at around 35-40k miles. Now, unless the previous owner touched them after that, they should have been fine and time tested. Even if he did touch them, I bought the car and put 2k miles on it without any issues or leaks. Not sure if you seen what I wrote after, but me and a mechanic started the car as it was in the pictures the day after the fire, HPFP functioning and everything, and there was no fuel leak anywhere. Also, no I haven't replaced the hard lines, been working fine since, only replaced injectors in terms of fuel system.