[Wolf 335]

Just another point to consider, as you didn't mention if your winter wheels are oem or aftermarket.

If the center bore diameter is not the right size (as they tend to differ between certain bmw models) the wheel won't be centered properly and therefore exhibit vibrations.

I think everyone that commented has pretty much covered all possible culprits.

Could you tell me where you did your aligment?

My last alignment was done at Altech Alignment in Etobicoke. They been discussed in the Canadian section of the forum with good reviews and seem to be mod friendly. Also great guys that work there. Although I had to go back twice because my steering wheel was off center. I've also had alignment done at the bmw dealership and it's always been bang on straight but the cost is a deciding factor. $200+ vs $60

Edit: Just saw a thread from 2016 where you inquired about alignments and Altech was recommended.

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Just another point to consider, as you didn't mention if your winter wheels are oem or aftermarket.

If the center bore diameter is not the right size (as they tend to differ between certain bmw models) the wheel won't be centered properly and therefore exhibit vibrations.

I think everyone that commented has pretty much covered all possible culprits.

Could you tell me where you did your aligment?

My last alignment was done at Altech Alignment in Etobicoke. They been discussed in the Canadian section of the forum with good reviews and seem to be mod friendly. Also great guys that work there. Although I had to go back twice because my steering wheel was off center. I've also had alignment done at the bmw dealership and it's always been bang on straight but the cost is a deciding factor. $200+ vs $60

Edit: Just saw a thread from 2016 where you inquired about alignments and Altech was recommended.

1st alignment I had before winter tires and the new control arm/ tie rods I had done at altech. Vibrations never went away. They told me my tie rods were seized. My steering felt looser after that (I hate that), but that was partially my fault because I didn't tell them I wanted a stiffer steering feel.

2nd alignment done after front end overhaul at some random shop in Vaughan, which I had done urgently because I didn't wanna drive without alignment on my new arms/tie rods.

My winter tires are Sailiun Ice Balzers WST1, purchased them BRAND new and they are on my OEM 193M Rims. (I know, i'm crazy for running these rims in the winter)

I want to go there again to diagnose my issues, and get road force balance, alignment, wheel run out again.. BUT their work hours and schedule never fits my work schedule.. They're closed on weekends. !!

[Nexus313]

I'm really starting to think it's my Flex Disc/Guibo/Ujoint whatever you want to call it, and center support bearing.. Here are the signs that slightly gives me that impression tell me if i'm wrong here:

1)The 2 to 3 shift is a little jerky sometimes.. The flex disc connects to transmission, and if there is play in the disc bearings it would make alot of sense.
2) Windows down, shifting transmission into Reverse or Drive and I hear a distinctive clunk at times.
3) The idle vibrations are slightly getting worse too, since the driveshaft stays spinning all the time even in idle, this would make sense if the flex disc was bad.
4) The most obvious, and why this post was created, the insane front end harsh violent vibrations in the front end.

Its just odd that this stuff goes out at such a low mileage to me, I guess the previous owners drove this car really harsh, It was FBO before I bought it with a tune.

[dsjr2006]

Originally Posted by Nexus313

I'm really starting to think it's my Flex Disc/Guibo/Ujoint whatever you want to call it, and center support bearing.. Here are the signs that slightly gives me that impression tell me if i'm wrong here:

1)The 2 to 3 shift is a little jerky sometimes.. The flex disc connects to transmission, and if there is play in the disc bearings it would make alot of sense.
2) Windows down, shifting transmission into Reverse or Drive and I hear a distinctive clunk at times.
3) The idle vibrations are slightly getting worse too, since the driveshaft stays spinning all the time even in idle, this would make sense if the flex disc was bad.
4) The most obvious, and why this post was created, the insane front end harsh violent vibrations in the front end.

Its just odd that this stuff goes out at such a low mileage to me, I guess the previous owners drove this car really harsh, It was FBO before I bought it with a tune.

The driveshaft should not be spinning unless you're in gear and moving, so I'm not sure how that figures into the idle things.

Have you had someone double-check the wheels and tires? You could easily have a bad tire or wheel that will not be revealed by visual inspection only.

[YoungBlood]

Also, your whole drivetrain would vibrate from those being bad, not just the front end

[Nexus313]

It's not the tires. Just had them replaced when I got winter's, didn't make a difference. I guess the whole car does shake, it's just way more prominent in the front than back but who knows I spend more time in the front anyway.

Still need the wheels checked!

[Adieu]

Try shofting it manually to see if it's related to a speed or to an RPM range?

But imho your alignment is wacky. Based on the "completed" printout which SAYS your alignment is wacky


Oh btw do your strut mounts still have alignment pins? Pop your hood and look --- if they do, you took your car to scammers/dumbasses

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by Adieu

Try shofting it manually to see if it's related to a speed or to an RPM range?

But imho your alignment is wacky. Based on the "completed" printout which SAYS your alignment is wacky


Oh btw do your strut mounts still have alignment pins? Pop your hood and look --- if they do, you took your car to scammers/dumbasses

Yeah I'm pretty sure I got scammed on that alignment because I watched them do it and the hood was never popped.

[Nexus313]

Here's my current to do list:
Replace Guibo/flex disc
Replace Center Support Bearing
Transmission Mounts
Check the drive shaft in general
REDO Allignment
REDO Road Force Balancing
Check wheel rollout for bent rim
Torque all the suspension bolts to the correct spec + Torque all wheels to a correct spec.

Anything else I should add to this list?

PS; My car sometimes makes a really heavy loud noise sometimes when I release my brakes on an angle, never used to happen before. I don't know if this is related.

Originally Posted by Nexus313

Yeah I'm pretty sure I got scammed on that alignment because I watched them do it and the hood was never popped.

You scammed yourself not knowing that front camber isn't adjustable on this platform.

If you didn't ask them to pull the pins, there's no reason to pop the hood in the first place.

[SaugaSoul92]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

You scammed yourself not knowing that front camber isn't adjustable on this platform.

If you didn't ask them to pull the pins, there's no reason to pop the hood in the first place.

agreed, you need to pull the pins to get it to adjust... hey i highly suggest you go to RMP motors and get the car checked out ..ROcco knows his shit and is closer to you..

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by SaugaSoul92

agreed, you need to pull the pins to get it to adjust... hey i highly suggest you go to RMP motors and get the car checked out ..ROcco knows his shit and is closer to you..

Their shop is always booked off for weeks ahead of time, and they're always closed when I'm not working.. (9-5)

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Nexus313

Hmm really? That would mean that every car that goes into that shop to get repaired comes out with front end vibrations..? They just tighten them with a impact wrench that's it. But will check that.

any other suggestions?

Proper shops dont use impact, they should use torque wrench. An impact gun can over or under torque bolts easily, they should at least be checked with torque wrench. I had a shop who trusted his impact gun like it was his first born and it under torqued my bolts so bad my wheel almost shook off. The bolts were so loose i could tighten them by hand.

Most front end vibrations are attributed tires out of balance.

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Proper shops dont use impact, they should use torque wrench. An impact gun can over or under torque bolts easily, they should at least be checked with torque wrench. I had a shop who trusted his impact gun like it was his first born and it under torqued my bolts so bad my wheel almost shook off. The bolts were so loose i could tighten them by hand.

Most front end vibrations are attributed tires out of balance.

I hear you. Is it odd that my steering wheel itself doesn't physically shake but I still feel vibrations through it? I can upload a video describing what I mean.. but wouldn't my steering wheel also physically shake violently if my balance was off?

[mojobmw_e90]

Ur shocks are toast. I have a 01 civic with 80k(yes I know it's a civic, doesn't compare to bmw) no oil leaks on struts, no noise over holes, doesn't sag, can take a corner hard and doesn't bottom out, yet I had steering shake 60+. Anything under is smooth as butter..i too replaced parts that test out bad, axles (Fwd car) ball joints.. Still shake. Better but not gone.. So I said screw it, new strut/spring combo 35 bucks each.so I buy both fronts and bam that did it. So it looks like ur inner strut piston(Shiney part that goes up/down) has excessive movement causing the wheel and car to shake

Originally Posted by Nexus313

wouldn't my steering wheel also physically shake violently if my balance was off?

Yes, obviously.

[YoungBlood]

Not if it’s just a slightly out of round tire or wheel, or a very slight imbalance

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Ur shocks are toast. I have a 01 civic with 80k(yes I know it's a civic, doesn't compare to bmw) no oil leaks on struts, no noise over holes, doesn't sag, can take a corner hard and doesn't bottom out, yet I had steering shake 60+. Anything under is smooth as butter..i too replaced parts that test out bad, axles (Fwd car) ball joints.. Still shake. Better but not gone.. So I said screw it, new strut/spring combo 35 bucks each.so I buy both fronts and bam that did it. So it looks like ur inner strut piston(Shiney part that goes up/down) has excessive movement causing the wheel and car to shake

Any way to physically diagnose something like this myself easily before throwing money at parts?

BTW guys.. the car does still shake and vibrate on smooth fresh roads!

Have been trying to coordinate with shops recently, might have an appointment next week.

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Ur shocks are toast. I have a 01 civic with 80k(yes I know it's a civic, doesn't compare to bmw) no oil leaks on struts, no noise over holes, doesn't sag, can take a corner hard and doesn't bottom out, yet I had steering shake 60+. Anything under is smooth as butter..i too replaced parts that test out bad, axles (Fwd car) ball joints.. Still shake. Better but not gone.. So I said screw it, new strut/spring combo 35 bucks each.so I buy both fronts and bam that did it. So it looks like ur inner strut piston(Shiney part that goes up/down) has excessive movement causing the wheel and car to shake

Dude, I think you're right lol..

I don't know how I didn't notice this before but I did some more testing today while I was driving..

But basically in addition to the Excessive vibrations going more than 60+, whenever I'm going over speed bumps at low speeds I hear a bed creeking type noise, sometimes clicking and clunking when turning wheel while parking, the car randomly likes to veer and pull directions on its own in high winds or when passing by trucks (dangerous), and it nose dives upon braking..

PHYSICALLY, the strut looks like it's in perfect shape, but I think the inner strut piston is either stuck, or like you said, has play.

[OlliD]

Originally Posted by Nexus313

Dude, I think you're right lol..

I don't know how I didn't notice this before but I did some more testing today while I was driving..

But basically in addition to the Excessive vibrations going more than 60+, whenever I'm going over speed bumps at low speeds I hear a bed creeking type noise, sometimes clicking and clunking when turning wheel while parking, the car randomly likes to veer and pull directions on its own in high winds or when passing by trucks (dangerous), and it nose dives upon braking..

PHYSICALLY, the strut looks like it's in perfect shape, but I think the inner strut piston is either stuck, or like you said, has play.

Very interested if that was your problem. I have the same problem (going 60+ km/h vibrations are felt at the pedals/seats but no wheel wobbling, and car "dives" a little bit when braking)

Originally Posted by Nexus313

PHYSICALLY, the strut looks like it's in perfect shape, but I think the inner strut piston is either stuck, or like you said, has play.

Ok...so change them. Stock units are garbage anyway.

You have nothing to lose and a lot to gain; whether it fixes your problem or not.

[Nexus313]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

Ok...so change them. Stock units are garbage anyway.

You have nothing to lose and a lot to gain; whether it fixes your problem or not.

Yes exactly .. and from fcp euro it's got a life time warranty so might aswell replace a degrading part and get a life time warranty for it .. I'm on stock Msport suspension currently so I was thinking of getting Bilstien B4s aka Stock MSport.. don't want performance struts or new springs at this moment because I winter drive.