[e91Owner]

For anyone else doing a VCG or eccentric shaft sensor change, this article while not very detailed gives the most clearance to remove the valve cover.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e90-va...placement.aspx

Most others do not remove the wipers/trim making the cover harder to reapply while keeping the gasket in place.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

For anyone else doing a VCG or eccentric shaft sensor change, this article while not very detailed gives the most clearance to remove the valve cover.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e90-va...placement.aspx

Most others do not remove the wipers/trim making the cover harder to reapply while keeping the gasket in place.

14. Remove the camshaft adjuster motor by removing the three screws. It will just push out once the screws are loose. There is also a hole in the back where you can insert a hex bit and screw it out but in most cases it isn't necessary.

If you follow this guide, BEWARE. Doing this without setting the VVT motor to the "service" position has a high likely hood of breaking the shaft off the end of the motor (unlike what they say here). It's so easy to do it right I don't know why you wouldn't..

[ycehcky]

I didn't read everything, but mine was also reading the code and "looked fine". I replaced the sensor and did the Valvetronic Motor reset and ran perfect afterwards.

[scanspeak]

I'm preparing to install the eccentric shaft sensor and valve cover soon.
Was just thinking about how to make it easier to install the valve cover and I think if we could hold up the screws during the positioning step it would slide on much easier.
So to achieve this I am going to lightly shrink some heatshrink over the screws, tight enough to hold them up. When the valve cover is correctly in place the heatshrink can then be easily pulled off.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by scanspeak

I'm preparing to install the eccentric shaft sensor and valve cover soon.
Was just thinking about how to make it easier to install the valve cover and I think if we could hold up the screws during the positioning step it would slide on much easier.
So to achieve this I am going to lightly shrink some heatshrink over the screws, tight enough to hold them up. When the valve cover is correctly in place the heatshrink can then be easily pulled off.

[IMG]http://www.gattiweb.com/images/BMW/coverscrew.JPG[/IMG]

The most difficult part for me was putting the cover back on with the very little clearance you have at the back of the engine. The screws flopping around weren't much of an issue, though. I would recommend looking at the diy from RMEuropean above; it would have saved me a lot of time just removing the wipers to gain that extra clearance. I agree with Hassmachine as well--you'll want to position the VVT motor with an allen or electronically via INPA prior to removal as to not damage it. So far so good for my repair... Good luck!

[scanspeak]

Thanks for the tips. I was very intimidated at first but after doing so much research I’m feeling much more confident about taking this on.

[sampham2001]

false positives on an eccentric shaft sensor faults for sure happen to my car change it will be done between 80k miles up

[juld0zer]

There's a thousand walkthroughs on N52 rocker cover gasket replacements. Genuine BMW gaskets stay in the groove quite well provided you thoroughly degrease the grooves using rags, brake cleaner and shop air. Can't say much about aftermarket ones but given the kerfuffle about the redesigned oil filter housing gaskets, I can only recommend you use a genuine gasket to make it easier for yourself. You don't need to use RTV to hold the gasket in the groove.

LHD models have the disadvantage of having the ebox on the right side of the engine bay which can make removal and reinstallation an infuriating task I imagine. On a RHD model you can coerce the PCV bung past the cowl if you take the rubber seal off the cowl (the seal that the gutter slides into) and a bit of rocker cover acrobatics.

I strongly advise inspecting the seal groove for warpage as a warped cover will not push down sufficiently on the seal. Ideally, this job must be done on a cold motor to avoid warping a hot cover.q

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by Johnazzi430

Hi Im having an issue with my eccentric shaft as well.

Went to start the car one day and with no warning the car wouldnt start. towed to the dealership. first they replaced the Valvetronic motor. No fix, then they pull the valvecover and look at the eccentric shaft. theres a small mark on the eccentric shaft, and they're telling me the sensor is dead.

I don't know if I should do the sensor and the shaft. the shaft is $1,000 on its own! its a small mark, anyone have experience with this?

View post on imgur.com

Are you talking about the silver marks on the gear towards the bottom? If this is an early N52 with the magnesium rocker cover, then I'd say this is acceptable because mine also has wear marks on half of the gear. Most of the plastic rocker cover N52s show less wear. The grease that is supposed to be applied to the gear and motor shaft upon each reinstallation is supposed to prevent this, but evidently the motor shaft worm gear appears to be stronger than the eccentric shaft gear.

Is there stiff movement in the eccentric shaft when you manually move it using a spanner? Could the shaft be cracked?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Are you talking about the silver marks on the gear towards the bottom? If this is an early N52 with the magnesium rocker cover, then I'd say this is acceptable because mine also has wear marks on half of the gear. Most of the plastic rocker cover N52s show less wear. The grease that is supposed to be applied to the gear and motor shaft upon each reinstallation is supposed to prevent this, but evidently the motor shaft worm gear appears to be stronger than the eccentric shaft gear.

Is there stiff movement in the eccentric shaft when you manually move it using a spanner? Could the shaft be cracked?

Good thing you got to him before the year was over! I'm sure it's just been sitting.