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BMS DCI vs homemade DCI
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08-22-2018, 11:10 AM | #23 | |
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I do plan to tune in a few months after my downpipes are on the car but even right now without one it's great. |
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08-22-2018, 11:15 AM | #24 | |
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There is free software to add a tune or MHD is super user friendly. Owning an N54 you want to own a coding/comm cable anyways. Oh, speaking of which I have CPE downpipes for sale if you want them. PM me for pics etc.
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08-22-2018, 11:20 AM | #25 | |
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And how are tunes free?
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08-22-2018, 11:34 AM | #26 | |
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I wanted to wait before tune because MHD I would have 2 pay 2 times for a tune without downpipes and then for one with downpipes right? Sorry for the downpipes your a bit far for easy pick up. Last edited by TheMidnightNarwhal; 08-22-2018 at 11:44 AM.. |
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08-22-2018, 01:19 PM | #27 |
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Just google "free n54 tune" There is free software online that continues to be developed.
It's been so long since I bought the MHD maps I don't remember. I think you can download the app without paying for it no? and then see all the prices? OTO335i if you aren't going to tune the N54 I would just buy another car. They are horribly unreliable tuned or not. Might as well have a tune and enjoy it. The tune is just going to wear out yoru plugs and coil packs faster which are quick and inexpensive to replace. stock vs. tune on 91 octane. MHD flash on 93 will net even better: 1k in mods + MHD and you should be at around 400whp/450wtq this is why people buy the N54. Not to keep it stock...
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08-22-2018, 01:43 PM | #28 | |
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You're not really driving if you don't have 3 pedals. Last edited by OTO335i; 08-22-2018 at 02:11 PM.. |
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08-22-2018, 02:04 PM | #29 | |
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08-22-2018, 02:19 PM | #30 | |
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The vehicles with the n54 without a tune are just as unreliable and have the same issues tuned or not, which is why I don't see why anyone would knowingly drive one without a tune(especially when it's free). If you want to keep it stock go for it. But don't delude yourself that it's going to break down less and or be more reliable. Coil packs and plugs every 50k tuned is not expensive and about the same as stock. HPFP is junk, it's driven off the engine so you are not 'working it less'. Wastegate on the turbos wears out just as fast stock or at 500whp. Waterpump will still fail at or around 100k. 02 sensors are not going to wear out faster that will be noticable. The list goes on. If anything adding inlets so the turbos can breath in easier(stock are too small from the factory) and downpipes so they can exhale easier will let the most expensive component that is likely to fail(the turbos) live an easier life. You will need a tune of some sort at this point. Just because you have a tune does not mean you will be or have to be maxing out every component and running on the ragged edge. There are such a thing as safe and moderate tunes. You can cap the boost where ever you want.
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Last edited by Torgus; 08-22-2018 at 02:27 PM.. |
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08-22-2018, 02:21 PM | #31 | |
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08-22-2018, 02:28 PM | #32 | |
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I've owned my car for a year and luckily the only thing that's broken down is the water pump which I changed myself, I also did all my maintenance as in plugs and such but I haven't had major issues. I'm at 172,000Km's and throwing a tune on my car would probably risk burning my turbo's out faster than they would if I left it stock. I'd like to pay the car off before throwing major money into it as well. For the wastegate issue, isn't it more of a wastegate actuator issue? that would be my first course of action if I had rattle, I think the diaphragm inside the actuator gives out which doesn't pull the wastegate fully closed "I could be wrong"
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08-22-2018, 02:44 PM | #33 |
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The waste gate usually fails because it gets worn out. This is that horrible sound that N54s are known for. Wastegate rattle!
This video explains it well: Just a shitty design from BMW. Mine were junk like this, hence my 30FF codes and not hitting boost targets. It can be the actuator but 99% of the time it's the worn wastegate assembly on this platform. This causes lack of boost 30FF codes etc. Here is a video showing the HORRIBLE sound. Nothing like your BMW sounding worse than a ricer: What is annoying is this will eventually happen to all of the n54 turbos. People have had wastegate rattle after BMW replaced them with brand new OEM units. They do sell upgraded wastegate parts but the labor to get the turbos out makes it not worth only installing the upgraded wastegates. Also, running little or alot of boost will not affect how fast the wastegate wears out because of it's design.
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08-22-2018, 02:48 PM | #34 | |
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And reading about that waste gate rattle seems pretty depressing. |
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08-22-2018, 02:55 PM | #35 | |
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08-22-2018, 02:58 PM | #36 |
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You said you got like a 170k on your car? Do you know if original turbos or if they were replaced?
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08-22-2018, 03:09 PM | #37 |
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I know that they were never replaced under recall or warranty because I checked with BMW. So I don't think they were ever replaced unless they were done at another shop by the previous owner. I'm not sure if there's a way I could check either.
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08-22-2018, 03:15 PM | #38 |
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Nice. I'm only at 90 000k right now and seeing your tubo life and comparing with other user seems to be random for everyone, so at least there is that.
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08-22-2018, 04:21 PM | #39 |
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Stock boost is 8.8 psi IIRC. Most run up to 18-19psi on 93 octane FBO. 22+psi on full E85. This is on MHI stock twins. The more you push outside of their efficiency range them you will accelerate wear on the CHRA, but not on the wastegate. The wastegate will fail and you will be getting 30FF under boost target codes likely before the CHRA needs replacing. It's a shame but it is what it is.
Stock STIs make like 18PSI from the factory. They have a smaller engine so they need more boost for higher numbers. Just using them as an example and why higher boost isn't necessarily a bad thing. The 8.8psi BMW used from the factory is very very low. These are MHI turbos, look them up. People run 12-18psi on this platform all the time. It's not until you get above say, 19SI that they start to blow hot air as they are out of their efficiency range. As long as you keep a turbo in it's efficiency range and you are not over spinning it turning it into a hairdryer(20psi and above, which is why you need E85 to suppress knock) it should last a very long time. The MHI turbos at 16 psi are still in their efficiency range on this platform. Hence why I see no reason to not run them as such. BMW was amazingly over cautious at 8.8. They still had to put extended the warranty 8 years or 82k miles because of the shit wastegate design. It had nothing to do with failing turbos or because of the CHRAs failing. It was wastegates so damn worn they can't even close to make 6psi let alone 18.
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08-22-2018, 04:41 PM | #40 | |
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08-22-2018, 05:10 PM | #41 | |
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08-22-2018, 05:17 PM | #42 |
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08-22-2018, 06:13 PM | #43 |
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I think it is the dye in the oil for the most part. I just couldn't find orange oil in a quick google (just a bunch of Fram filters). Figured dying the filter was the closest thing.
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08-22-2018, 08:34 PM | #44 | |
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The upgraded stock frames with upgraded white gates seems to put out even more horsepower but longevity seems to be hit or miss. If you dont want a tune dont do it. The two n54s I've owned were tuned day 1. My wife's was amazing trouble free. |
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