[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by bon1979

Can I use this until I can get the hoses completely replaced?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...PVIF1NYU&psc=1

Yeah looks good. But might aswell get one of those in aluminum/metal that way this won't happen again! I think they are only a couple dollars more.

Because the OE BMW part only comes with the full hose all the way down to the T stat..

[bon1979]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Yeah looks good. But might aswell get one of those in aluminum/metal that way this won't happen again! I think they are only a couple dollars more.

Because the OE BMW part only comes with the full hose all the way down to the T stat..

Ok got the aluminum part ordered.
I have a REAL stupid question now, since I didn't see it when it came apart..

The o-ring that is on the hose - does it sit between the 2 metal pieces where the hose goes into the hole or does the ring go into the hole also?

My brain says the ring goes into the hole. I need to get this back together so I can get my car off the ramps - someone is coming to clean the inside in an hour...

[bon1979]

I'm assuming it sits on the little "lip" (red lines) and then the o-ring goes INTO the block.... right?

[Efthreeoh]

OP, I just looked at your fist pic closely. The serpentine belt is about to come off the tensioner pulley. You need to replace the tensioner and belt ASAP! It's a common problem with the later versions of he N52.

If the belt comes off the tensioner pulley while the engine is running, the belt can get lodged behind the harmonic balancer/crank pulley and pulled through the front crank seal. That makes a real mess and can destroy the engine.

[Efthreeoh]

For future reference, that third bolt on the OFH you had trouble with can be removed using a 3/8th-inch, 12-point closed-end wrench, which eliminates the need to remove the coolant hose; you don't need to use a Torx socket on it.

OP, don't take offense to this, while I commend you for attempting to DIY your car, it appears you don't have a lot of experience with working on cars. Did you follow the DIY for the OFHG that is posted in the DIY section? You should have known to drain the coolant and oil from the engine prior pulling off the oil filter housing. The OFH holds about 5 ounces of oil, which will just pour out once you pull the OFH away from the cylinder head and make a mess. Coolant passes through the OFH to take heat away from the oil (for a cooling effect), so the coolant and oil passages are adjacent to one another, which is why it is important to replace the OFHG if it is leaking, so the coolant and oil do not mix.

You now need to flush the cooling system with water and detergent to clean the oil residue from the cooling system. You also need to drain the oil since you've probably got coolant in the engine block too.

[bon1979]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

For future reference, that third bolt on the OFH you had trouble with can be removed using a 3/8th-inch, 12-point closed-end wrench, which eliminates the need to remove the coolant hose; you don't need to use a Torx socket on it.

OP, don't take offense to this, while I commend you for attempting to DIY your car, it appears you don't have a lot of experience with working on cars. Did you follow the DIY for the OFHG that is posted in the DIY section? You should have known to drain the coolant and oil from the engine prior pulling off the oil filter housing. The OFH holds about 5 ounces of oil, which will just pour out once you pull the OFH away from the cylinder head and make a mess. Coolant passes through the OFH to take heat away from the oil (for a cooling effect), so the coolant and oil passages are adjacent to one another, which is why it is important to replace the OFHG if it is leaking, so the coolant and oil do not mix.

You now need to flush the cooling system with water and detergent to clean the oil residue from the cooling system. You also need to drain the oil since you've probably got coolant in the engine block too.

First thank you for the pointers and no offense taken. I can do basic things but no, I don't have alot of experience, but not afraid to learn.
I did not look at the DIY on here because I didn't find this site until after I started and the DIY I watched for the OFH did NOT drain any fluids and didn't take that hose off, they used a socket, so no I wasn't aware of any of that.

I'm now going to wait for the parts I ordered and watch the info on the flush and better look at the belt mentioned above

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by bon1979

First thank you for the pointers and no offense taken. I can do basic things but no, I don't have alot of experience, but not afraid to learn.
I did not look at the DIY on here because I didn't find this site until after I started and the DIY I watched for the OFH did NOT drain any fluids and didn't take that hose off, they used a socket, so no I wasn't aware of any of that.

I'm now going to wait for the parts I ordered and watch the info on the flush and better look at the belt mentioned above

There are a lot of people who like to make videos on the internet and post misinformation. The E90 DIY section is good because many Members add to the procedure by placing their comments gained from experience. Also, the BMW NewTIS is available for consultation.

Kudos to wanting to learn! You can spend good time by just reading the DIY and maintenance sections.

[bon1979]

So, I've spent a good amount of time reading DIY's and have flushed the coolant multiple times. It is still pretty dirty and has some oil residue in it.

Is there an actual "detergent" or cleaner that can be run through it?
I've seem some posts that suggest a radiator cleaner up to dishwasher soap???

I have the new belt to replace also, but have not done that yet.
I had someone come over and look at it, with some experience and he suggested I take the fan out (to get more room) and clean everything as much as I can.
Between the original leak and the mishap with the lid on the housing there is one hell of a mess of oil.

Any suggestions on getting this Flushed cleaner and then cleaning up all this messy ass caked on oil (old and new)

[S4NoMore]

Originally Posted by bon1979

Is there an actual "detergent" or cleaner that can be run through it?
I've seem some posts that suggest a radiator cleaner up to dishwasher soap???

I would be very wary of anything advertised as a "radiator cleaner" and I definitely would not put dishwasher detergent in my engine. Dishwasher detergent is mostly bleach and enzymes designed to break down food. It'll be one more thing you need to somehow flush out, just like the oil.

I would read up further before proceeding but from my experience, I would probably continue performing coolant changes using pure distilled water (from your local supermarket, bought by the gallon, but you already know that right). Each coolant change process puts 2 gallons through the engine. I would only do one with "coolant" (which is just BMW antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water) when I felt comfortable that I got most of the oil out. I think the Pelican Parts writeup on how to do the coolant change is pretty good, have you been using that? There's an electronic bleed function which circulates the coolant/water for several minutes. I would stick with distilled water and after running a few changes you should be plenty clean enough to not worry about it.

Originally Posted by bon1979

I have the new belt to replace also, but have not done that yet.
I had someone come over and look at it, with some experience and he suggested I take the fan out (to get more room) and clean everything as much as I can.
Between the original leak and the mishap with the lid on the housing there is one hell of a mess of oil.

Any suggestions on getting this Flushed cleaner and then cleaning up all this messy ass caked on oil (old and new)

In your shoes, I would install the temporary hose and proceed with flushing distilled water a few times. The plastic fitting should be fine for this, if you get it sooner than the metal one. Once the new hose comes in I would install it and then do the final coolant change, and then observe the cleanliness of the coolant in the expansion tank after bleeding the system. Then if it looks ok, you can install your new belt and tensioner. I'd probably pressure wash or brush and hose-rinse the front of the motor to clean it off before putting the new belt and tensioner on, just watch to make sure you don't splash the alternator and you'll be OK. Then you can put the fan back on and proceed with starting the engine up and checking for leaks.

I'd probably check the expansion tank after doing at least a drive cycle (warm up to full operating temperature) and see if the coolant still looks okay, and if it looks a little oily or questionable then you could do one more coolant change.

You've come this far and not given up, I'm sure you'll figure it out and be fine.

[bon1979]

Originally Posted by S4NoMore

I would be very wary of anything advertised as a "radiator cleaner" and I definitely would not put dishwasher detergent in my engine. Dishwasher detergent is mostly bleach and enzymes designed to break down food. It'll be one more thing you need to somehow flush out, just like the oil.

I would read up further before proceeding but from my experience, I would probably continue performing coolant changes using pure distilled water (from your local supermarket, bought by the gallon, but you already know that right). Each coolant change process puts 2 gallons through the engine. I would only do one with "coolant" (which is just BMW antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water) when I felt comfortable that I got most of the oil out. I think the Pelican Parts writeup on how to do the coolant change is pretty good, have you been using that? There's an electronic bleed function which circulates the coolant/water for several minutes. I would stick with distilled water and after running a few changes you should be plenty clean enough to not worry about it.



In your shoes, I would install the temporary hose and proceed with flushing distilled water a few times. The plastic fitting should be fine for this, if you get it sooner than the metal one. Once the new hose comes in I would install it and then do the final coolant change, and then observe the cleanliness of the coolant in the expansion tank after bleeding the system. Then if it looks ok, you can install your new belt and tensioner. I'd probably pressure wash or brush and hose-rinse the front of the motor to clean it off before putting the new belt and tensioner on, just watch to make sure you don't splash the alternator and you'll be OK. Then you can put the fan back on and proceed with starting the engine up and checking for leaks.

I'd probably check the expansion tank after doing at least a drive cycle (warm up to full operating temperature) and see if the coolant still looks okay, and if it looks a little oily or questionable then you could do one more coolant change.

You've come this far and not given up, I'm sure you'll figure it out and be fine.

I've been using the Pelican Parts writeup on how to do the coolant change - I've flushed it a few times (with the distilled water) and it looks MUCH better. The more I thought about a radiator or cleaner I decided it sounds risky and I've taken enough risks at this point.

I've been cleaning the front of the engine (with the belt off) so it is looking much better. The alternator has SO much oil both fresh and old caked on oil I'm worried about that but I guess I'll see how that goes.

At this point the spark plugs and coils are changed, the OFHG, oil filter, coolant and oil.. I've learned what NOT to do that is for sure. My hope is when I put it all back together it will start up and be ok.

[S4NoMore]

Originally Posted by bon1979

The alternator has SO much oil both fresh and old caked on oil I'm worried about that but I guess I'll see how that goes.

At this point the spark plugs and coils are changed, the OFHG, oil filter, coolant and oil.. I've learned what NOT to do that is for sure. My hope is when I put it all back together it will start up and be ok.

Yea unfortunately the alternator is one thing that needs extra care when cleaning or getting moisture in/around. I would maybe mist a degreaser onto it, like one single spray with a spray bottle or a brief spray of an aerosol product, and then give it a wiping with an old rag. Of course then you'd have to take care to grab the caked-on grime that will break off, to try and prevent it from falling into the coil. I think as long as you don't get it really wet and then fire up the engine, you're probably ok, but better safe than sorry.

Make sure to report back and let us know how it goes, good luck!

[bon1979]

Originally Posted by S4NoMore

Yea unfortunately the alternator is one thing that needs extra care when cleaning or getting moisture in/around. I would maybe mist a degreaser onto it, like one single spray with a spray bottle or a brief spray of an aerosol product, and then give it a wiping with an old rag. Of course then you'd have to take care to grab the caked-on grime that will break off, to try and prevent it from falling into the coil. I think as long as you don't get it really wet and then fire up the engine, you're probably ok, but better safe than sorry.

Make sure to report back and let us know how it goes, good luck!

I'll definately update when done. Getting ready to put the new connector in now, once I can figure out how to get the old one off the hose, I'd prefer to not cut the hose if I can avoid it.

One question, can I spray any cleaner (brake, carb, etc) on a rag and wipe things down?

[S4NoMore]

Originally Posted by bon1979

I'll definately update when done. Getting ready to put the new connector in now, once I can figure out how to get the old one off the hose, I'd prefer to not cut the hose if I can avoid it.

One question, can I spray any cleaner (brake, carb, etc) on a rag and wipe things down?

I think you'll need to cut the hose - the hose will be replaced anyway right? Once I had to get a hose off a connector cleanly just like that, and needed to dremel the metal band off.

Yes, spraying a solvent type cleaner on the rag is a good approach.

[bon1979]

Originally Posted by S4NoMore

I think you'll need to cut the hose - the hose will be replaced anyway right? Once I had to get a hose off a connector cleanly just like that, and needed to dremel the metal band off.

Yes, spraying a solvent type cleaner on the rag is a good approach.

Great thanks! I will work on cleaning everything up, using a cleaner should help. I'll have my husband cut that band off with the dremel when he gets home.

Appreciate it!!!

[robthewrench]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

For future reference, that third bolt on the OFH you had trouble with can be removed using a 3/8th-inch, 12-point closed-end wrench, which eliminates the need to remove the coolant hose; you don't need to use a Torx socket on it.

You can also buy a closed end / box end E10/E12 combo wrench for about $10. While this is not a ratcheting wrench, it makes taking off that lower OFH bolt super easy. The english wrench probably works pretty well, but for $10 I just bought the E10/E12 wrench and it worked great. No need to touch the nearby coolant hose at all.

[bon1979]

So, I just wanted to update for those that asked:

Everything is put back together and my car seems to run a little more smooth now. I did decide to remove the overflow tank for the coolant and clean it out really well, since there was still a bit of oil in there. I just removed all the hoses (broke one taking it off - ha ha) and flushed it with water over and over best I could.

My husband said "stop taking off parts" but I just explained it's one way to get new parts!!

In all seriousness this was major for me. I can do simple things headlights, oil change etc. taking that hose off was a BIG mistake considering I wasn't prepared for it, but I made it work.

Thank you to everyone who helped me out of this mess!!

I just need to change the angel eye bulb and then will have no warning lights on the dash.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by bon1979

So, I just wanted to update for those that asked:

Everything is put back together and my car seems to run a little more smooth now. I did decide to remove the overflow tank for the coolant and clean it out really well, since there was still a bit of oil in there. I just removed all the hoses (broke one taking it off - ha ha) and flushed it with water over and over best I could.

My husband said "stop taking off parts" but I just explained it's one way to get new parts!!

In all seriousness this was major for me. I can do simple things headlights, oil change etc. taking that hose off was a BIG mistake considering I wasn't prepared for it, but I made it work.

Thank you to everyone who helped me out of this mess!!

I just need to change the angel eye bulb and then will have no warning lights on the dash.

Great! That is excellent news!

Thanks to you and your post, I finally decided to get the aluminum hose bib replacement. I bought two (2) since I have two N52 engines. The parts arrived today. Nicely manufactured pieces.

[gurusan]

Funny, I added this wrench to my cart, and amazon's "frequently purchased together" list included an OFHG

[vilord]

Originally Posted by bon1979

I have the new belt to replace also, but have not done that yet.

Great job finding yourself in a mess but then figuring it out and fixing things!

Everyone on here when they first got started working on their cars (or even more recently, lol) has gotten themselves in a mess, it is the best way to learn!

You mentioned replacing the belt... did you replace the tensioner as well? If the belt was starting to walk off the tensioner then the problem is the tensioner, not the belt. We just replace the belt and idler at the same time because it is usually time, and so we don't have to do the job twice.



As for cleaning, after replacing the OFHG on my 2010 I had oil and grime and coolant all over everything. I drained off and wiped off as much as I could into a container, then sprayed down the front of the engine and around the oil filter housing with a spray engine degreaser from autozone. I let that soak in for about 10 minutes, then i carefully washed it off with a hose. Came out a hundred times cleaner than I could've done with hours by hand.
Gotta be careful about spraying degreaser or water into the alternator / etc.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by vilord

Great job finding yourself in a mess but then figuring it out and fixing things!

Everyone on here when they first got started working on their cars (or even more recently, lol) has gotten themselves in a mess, it is the best way to learn!

I know someone, back in 1987 or so, who had to remove the cylinderhead from his 1973 2.0L Ford Pinto because it needed hardened valve seats. He was working on said Pinto on the street, in front of his house, in December in Maryland (not SoCal..). The headbolts were E-Torx (who in the hell knew what an E-Torx bolt was back then). Well all the head bolts came out with his trusty Craftsman 12-Point SAE sockets, except one.... just one.... stripped the e-Torx ribs right off the bolt head.

He began to drill the bolt head in hopes of it popping off once most the bolt head material was gone. Well, you have to get perfectly on center to do that (oh, and he had machine shop experience as well, so he knew what he was doing). Luckily, 2.0L T88-series cylinder heads were a dime a dozen back then. Once the head came off, the machine shop doing the valve work found a replacement head for $50.

To this day, said shadetree mechanic buys the correct tool for the job...