[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by Silver Streek

No offence OP, but from the looks of it you may not have fastened the clamp correctly. They can be very tricky to get seated properly before you do them up. It could have failed, but pretty unlikely.

Is there a hole right through the inlet manifold where the egr bolts on?? Does look very raggedy on the side.

Thanks for all the advice guys (also no offense taken, very grateful for the input!).

Before I attempt any sort of DIY, how do I know the engine isn't dead?

[rasa bmw]

there are topics on this,,its the egr cooler failure..have a read of this one..https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...f=72&t=1759662https://www.facebook.com/pg/egrman/p...=page_internal click on posts and go quite a way down to see pics of egr fires

[Silver Streek]

Originally Posted by helpmepls

Thanks for all the advice guys (also no offense taken, very grateful for the input!).

Before I attempt any sort of DIY, how do I know the engine isn't dead?

You're welcome that's what we are here for to share our experiences.

If you are not technically minded probably best to get the car to a trustworthy garage and let them have a look.

You could take off the inlet manifold to see what shape its in, then take off the outlet hose from the turbo to see if the shaft still spins ok with no noise or roughness.

That should give you an idea of what damage may have been done.

[helpmepls]

Hi guys, got an update. I still need to take it to the garage but had breakdown cover come out and check the car (they were supposed to tow it but it got late).

The car was able to run (weak) when they used easy start but cuts off without it. Additionally, there are fault codes that won't clear (the camshaft sensor code did clear but would come back whereas others would straight up not clear at all). The latter point suggests there is a problem with the ecu (perhaps it got fried) but I'm not sure what to make of the former point.

Is it likely I will need to replace the ecu? I'm just trying to understand my costs so I don't get ripped off, I understand of course it's hard to diagnose over the internet but as always, any input is much appreciated.

[rasa bmw]

Originally Posted by helpmepls

Hi guys, got an update. I still need to take it to the garage but had breakdown cover come out and check the car (they were supposed to tow it but it got late).

The car was able to run (weak) when they used easy start but cuts off without it. Additionally, there are fault codes that won't clear (the camshaft sensor code did clear but would come back whereas others would straight up not clear at all). The latter point suggests there is a problem with the ecu (perhaps it got fried) but I'm not sure what to make of the former point.

Is it likely I will need to replace the ecu? I'm just trying to understand my costs so I don't get ripped off, I understand of course it's hard to diagnose over the internet but as always, any input is much appreciated.

jason at bmw chiptune is an ecu specialist,among other things..

[criscarp]

I am not sure weather the car would run at all with the crank shaft sensor disconnected. What are the fault codes?

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

I am not sure weather the car would run at all with the crank shaft sensor disconnected. What are the fault codes?

I said camshaft sensor though I'm not sure if there is a difference. Here are the codes:

DTC: 4321,Fuel delivery control valve
DTC: 4351,Rail pressure control valve, activation
DTC: 4191,Boost pressure valve, activation
DTC: 4391,Charge air temperature sensor, signal
DTC: 449B,Boost pressure regulator, line status
DTC: 4242,Glow plug cylinder 4, activation
DTC: 3EC0,Camshaft sensor
DTC: 3EC1,Camshaft sensor

[criscarp]

Yes sorry, I meant the cam shaft sensor. At the end of the day you have melted your wiring loom that connects most of the items listed in your fault codes. As said earlier, you need to get your loom repaired. Follow the earlier advice would be my advice.

Ask the garage for a quote for replacing the damaged part of the wiring loom and replacing the inlet manifold. This is quite a bit of labor plus the parts. Are you taking it to a garage that is competent to work on BMW cars? I doubt you have damaged your ecu looking at your codes but it can not be ruled out. Also you need to check the turbo as advised earlier to begin with.

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

Yes sorry, I meant the cam shaft sensor. At the end of the day you have melted your wiring loom that connects most of the items listed in your fault codes. As said earlier, you need to get your loom repaired. Follow the earlier advice would be my advice.

Ask the garage for a quote for replacing the damaged part of the wiring loom and replacing the inlet manifold. This is quite a bit of labor plus the parts. Are you taking it to a garage that is competent to work on BMW cars? I doubt you have damaged your ecu looking at your codes but it can not be ruled out. Also you need to check the turbo as advised earlier to begin with.

Update: So I took it to a garage and got the wire loom repaired but the same error codes are still showing. I'm not quite sure what the garage said but the car is now "getting fuel" however the fuel pressure readings (was told 300 or more is the norm, not sure of units) is around 8 which is really low. They don't really know why it's this low and are looking at inspecting the fuel injectors or the timing but this is looking very costly.

Any advice?

[criscarp]

Not sure why they would look at the fuel injectors or timing, are you sure the garage is familiar with BMW's.
I assume they have check the relevant fuses are not blown.
There are fuses in the engine bay with the DDE, I assume they have checked these?

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

Not sure why they would look at the fuel injectors or timing, are you sure the garage is familiar with BMW's.
I assume they have check the relevant fuses are not blown.
There are fuses in the engine bay with the DDE, I assume they have checked these?

Thanks Criscarp, I'll pass on this information. I don't think I am sure anymore - a bit stuck since the car doesn't move!

[criscarp]

The error codes you are getting are indicating the sensors are shorted to ground which could possible mean they do not have a supply signal. I dont have a circuit diagram handy but they may all be supplied by the same fuse in the ecu/dde compartment in the engine bay. Worth double checking.

Fuse 1 in engine compartment is probably blow 20 Amp.

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

The error codes you are getting are indicating the sensors are shorted to ground which could possible mean they do not have a supply signal. I dont have a circuit diagram handy but they may all be supplied by the same fuse in the ecu/dde compartment in the engine bay. Worth double checking.

Fuse 1 in engine compartment is probably blow 20 Amp.

Spoke with the garage and they said they checked the fuses but it's not an electrical fault, it is a mechanical fault. I'm unsure if this is true - it's strange that the codes did not change after repairing the wiring loom.

Why would it not be the fuel injector or engine timing as they suggest (asking to understand)? They have said they did read live data on the fuel line and found low fuel pressure.

What else might it be if it really isn't the fuses as they say?

Thanks for the help as always.

[criscarp]

I can only go on what you have said and the codes you say are percent on your car. I do not think your high pressure fuel pump will switch on with the current fuel faults you have listed.

Why dose your car throw those codes if there is no electrical fault, they are all common to Fuse 1 being blown or a open circuit in the supply cable. eg. the common supply voltage missing from those modules.

If those codes returned after they were cleared after the loom repair, I still think the current issue is either the fuse or the loom is still damaged. see below diagram

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-fuse/odMhJSW

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

I can only go on what you have said and the codes you say are percent on your car. I do not think your high pressure fuel pump will switch on with the current fuel faults you have listed.

Why dose your car throw those codes if there is no electrical fault, they are all common to Fuse 1 being blown or a open circuit in the supply cable. eg. the common supply voltage missing from those modules.

If those codes returned after they were cleared after the loom repair, I still think the current issue is either the fuse or the loom is still damaged. see below diagram

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-fuse/odMhJSW

I can only say what you've said to me makes a lot more sense than the injector fuels or engine timing being at fault - seems more likely the loom hasn't been repaired properly if the fuses are fine. I will speak with them again tomorrow but it's likely I'll go to another garage.

Thanks for the help Criscarp

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by helpmepls

I can only say what you've said to me makes a lot more sense than the injector fuels or engine timing being at fault - seems more likely the loom hasn't been repaired properly if the fuses are fine. I will speak with them again tomorrow but it's likely I'll go to another garage.

Thanks for the help Criscarp

Let us know how this works out for you. Dont forget Fuse 1 in the ECU box in the engine bay, it is not in the fuse panel inside the car. Good luck.

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

Let us know how this works out for you. Dont forget Fuse 1 in the ECU box in the engine bay, it is not in the fuse panel inside the car. Good luck.

So I finally got an update:

It seems the previous garage were not refreshing the error codes as we found new ones:

DTC: P0193, Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor - high input
DTC: P1246, Manufacturer controlled DTC
DTC: P1252, Manufacturer controlled DTC
DTC: P0091, Fuel pressure regulator 1 - short to earth

Additionally, the battery seems to drain quite quickly so there is definitely some electrical issue going on (the previous garage insisted that an electrical check has been done and there we no issues...).

These codes look more generic and I'm not sure what to make of it, but definitely looks closer to the observed issue of low fuel pressure.

Any ideas?

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by helpmepls

So I finally got an update:

It seems the previous garage were not refreshing the error codes as we found new ones:

DTC: P0193, Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor - high input
DTC: P1246, Manufacturer controlled DTC
DTC: P1252, Manufacturer controlled DTC
DTC: P0091, Fuel pressure regulator 1 - short to earth

Additionally, the battery seems to drain quite quickly so there is definitely some electrical issue going on (the previous garage insisted that an electrical check has been done and there we no issues...).

These codes look more generic and I'm not sure what to make of it, but definitely looks closer to the observed issue of low fuel pressure.

Any ideas?

I am not sure I can help you here, the generic codes are not BMW specific.

Looking on google -
P0193 - Fuel Rail pressure sensor reading outside prescribed limits
P0091 - Fuel pressure regulator 1 - short to earth (Low Signal)
P1246 - Alternator Regulator
P1252 - Turbo Actuator Short circuit.

1. Has the new garage checked the repair done on the wiring loom?

2. Did the turbo get checked as advised in the earlier part of this post?

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

I am not sure I can help you here, the generic codes are not BMW specific.

Looking on google -
P0193 - Fuel Rail pressure sensor reading outside prescribed limits
P0091 - Fuel pressure regulator 1 - short to earth (Low Signal)
P1246 - Alternator Regulator
P1252 - Turbo Actuator Short circuit.

1. Has the new garage checked the repair done on the wiring loom?

2. Did the turbo get checked as advised in the earlier part of this post?

I haven't actually taken it to another garage yet but as I got it towed home by breakdown service, these diagnostics service were found (not sure why it wasn't bmw specific as it usually is). I've been quite slow with the repairs as my current circumstances don't allow me to spend too much time trying to get it fixed (even taking it to a garage is a hassle).

My plan is to get bmw specific codes so I can be absolutely clear with the codes and then I'll look to getting it to the garage for repairs (and indeed will get the turbo checked!).

I wonder if the p0091 error is a consequence of the p0193 error which is the pressure sensor at the end of the fuel rail I presume - this is very close to where all the heat damage is and as such wouldn't be surprised if that has been damaged (though that is being quite optimistic). How do I actually remove the fuel rail pressure sensor?

It could also go back to the wiring again (it can be anything at this rate!!). Is it easy to replace the wiring loom? If it comes to it, I would like to replace it rather as I'm unsure of the repair and think it makes more sense just to replace it at this point (assuming it's easy enough).

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by helpmepls

I haven't actually taken it to another garage yet but as I got it towed home by breakdown service, these diagnostics service were found (not sure why it wasn't bmw specific as it usually is). I've been quite slow with the repairs as my current circumstances don't allow me to spend too much time trying to get it fixed (even taking it to a garage is a hassle).

My plan is to get bmw specific codes so I can be absolutely clear with the codes and then I'll look to getting it to the garage for repairs (and indeed will get the turbo checked!).

I wonder if the p0091 error is a consequence of the p0193 error which is the pressure sensor at the end of the fuel rail I presume - this is very close to where all the heat damage is and as such wouldn't be surprised if that has been damaged (though that is being quite optimistic). How do I actually remove the fuel rail pressure sensor?

It could also go back to the wiring again (it can be anything at this rate!!). Is it easy to replace the wiring loom? If it comes to it, I would like to replace it rather as I'm unsure of the repair and think it makes more sense just to replace it at this point (assuming it's easy enough).

No offence but I wouldn't recommencement you tamper with the fuel rail components after what happened with the egr clamp.

[helpmepls]

Originally Posted by criscarp

No offence but I wouldn't recommencement you tamper with the fuel rail components after what happened with the egr clamp.

Fair enough.

Today I attempted to read the error codes and before doing so I measured the battery and it was about 12V. After I got into the car and switched it on, I plugged in the OBD2 cable. Couldn't get Inpa to detect the battery due to something with the usb ports - as I was sorting this out, the dashboard lit up with an airbag warning. I turned the car off and back on but it would not turn on.

I checked the voltage on the car and it was around 5V - this was very strange as not much time elapsed. Then, I could hear a permanent ticking noise coming from the fuse box but I think it was coming from the ECU area in the engine bay.

I think what I'll do next is just get the car checked by a professional and definitely get the wiring redone (don't worry I won't do it!).

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by helpmepls

Fair enough.

Today I attempted to read the error codes and before doing so I measured the battery and it was about 12V. After I got into the car and switched it on, I plugged in the OBD2 cable. Couldn't get Inpa to detect the battery due to something with the usb ports - as I was sorting this out, the dashboard lit up with an airbag warning. I turned the car off and back on but it would not turn on.

I checked the voltage on the car and it was around 5V - this was very strange as not much time elapsed. Then, I could hear a permanent ticking noise coming from the fuse box but I think it was coming from the ECU area in the engine bay.

I think what I'll do next is just get the car checked by a professional and definitely get the wiring redone (don't worry I won't do it!).

Your battery has drained due to the electrical load fault which you know about. You should have disconnected your battery when not messing with it or you will knacker the new battery too. Disconnect it and put it on charge. Do not play around with the car with a dead battery you are likely throw lots more error codes and upset the car alarm and your car will be immobilized adding to your problems.

You really need to be 100% sure your loom and fuses are functional. It is possible your fuel pressure regulating valve and pressure sensor are fried along with the turbo actuator electronics.

Yes it is possible the pressure sensor could also throw the code for the pressure regulator but it does not mean it is.

If you are going to try and check for faults that are draining the battery you could possibly try un-plugging the turbo actuator loom connector and the connectors for the pressure sensor and the fuel pressure regulator and see if your battery still drains. But then again I do not know your capabilities. A good mechanic should be able to sort this out no problem. Finding one that's a different story.