[nsjames]

but you can immediately rule out a bunch of things.

if the DME is sending the starter request and then you get no torque errors from the DME you can be fairly certain that your starter has failed, the wiring to the starter or the chassis ground have fallen off.

If you have voltage at the starter and the DME is telling it to start, it's very likely the starter.

the easiest way to figure this out is to pull the manifold, put a power probe on the starter to verify the batery positive voltage and feed the solenoid 12V and see if it turns.
this should take less than 3 hours for even the most inexperienced DIY mechanic. There are many many step by step guides to intake manifold removal.
bonus that you're already there to replace the starter when you figure out that the starter has died.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by nsjames

if OP doesn't want to spend money, he should have setup an ista installation and pulled real codes and not generic OBD codes.

OP,
the car will tell you if the starter has failed.

for real. There's a code for it.

Thats the number 1 step for anyone who posts on this forum with car issues.

The most simple search will tell you what everyone asks for. BMW Codes.. its a simple ask. Who is going to waste time translating codes for a stranger ? ITs a busy life for everyone. If he does not want to spend the time to research just the most basic thing that we always ask here and clearly also doesnt want to spend the time to even test that battery then i will never be willing to help personally.
There is one solution for that type of mentality. Its called dealership.

[dpaul]

When the OP said he didn't want to "spend and test", I assumed he meant he didn't want to replace components blindly i.e. "guess and test".

I could be wrong about that but he did:

a) pull codes, even if he didn't do it in the most complete manner
b) visually inspect battery, battery terminals and ground strap - yes, there's little or nothing you can tell about the battery condition that way but it's useful for the ground and terminals which can and do affect starter operation.
c) tried starting after bypassing engine ground with jumpers

Finally, George is correct, there is no code directly reporting starter or solenoid function, only the state of the circuits activating the solenoid.

I agree with nsjames, the most direct way to diagnose is to simply put 12 volts on the solenoid. Not sure on the N55 but on the N54 you can do this without removing the intake manifold, just the airbox (if you have one) and charge pipe.

[austinse90]

Thank you for all the tips I'm receiving and yes I didn't want to just buy every single product to find out that it's not that problem. I want to target what the exact problem is, I'm willing to bring it to diagnose but not take it to the stealership, I may not be as knowledgable as you are but I did not reach out to the forums to be made fun of instead of being helped? I did give the codes and I did look the codes up which brings me to my next point, most of those codes only showed up after I removed the air intake, etc, to get under my intake manifold. The inspected terminals are literally fine, 12+ volts going into the multimeter. I will most likely try to test it out by putting 12 volts onto the solenoid next which is the next great tip that I've received.

[austinse90]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

You stated in Post #8 that you had disconnected the IBS. Which wire did you disconnect -- the B+ Battery voltage wire from the Power Distribution Panel to the IBS, or the BSD cable connection to the Chassis Connector above the Negative battery terminal? If not sure what that means, let me know and I will provide circuit diagram, etc. (TIS). If either of those wires is disconnected, that prevents the DME from getting proper SOC (State of Charge) information on your battery via the BSD cable, and could cause the Warning Light you describe.

As for the Old battery you replaced, did you note (1) the TYPE (AGM vs. FLA [Flooded Lead Acid] or conventional Old-style) and (2) the Amp-hour (Ah) rating? It would NOT affect cranking the starter directly, but it could affect how the new battery is charged (if you ever get the engine to run ;-) if you replaced with different Type, or Ah rating. IF you did, you need to change settings or "code" the CAS for the new Battery Type/Ah.

BTW, no one has suggested this yet: Use a multimeter to test Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals. That's a different cable and "Transfer Point" from the DME Voltage readout at the OBD II Socket or "Hidden Menu 9.00", or even the lighter socket. Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals is what counts where Starter engagement is concerned. It is POSSIBLE that the Transfer Point (in front of Battery) is corroded and Voltage to Starter (as measured under hood at Jumpstart Terminals) is less than Battery Voltage. That cable to the Jumpstart Terminal and Starter is a different Battery Power Supply Cable from the smaller ones going to (1) the DME, and (2) the Junction Box.

So (1) measure the Voltage at the Jumpstart terminals BEFORE you try to engage the Starter, then (2) try to engage Starter and have someone listen to determine where the click/clunk comes from (Starter or elsewhere), and THEN (3) Immediately measure battery voltage at Jumpstart Terminals again. That LAST step is a "poor-man's Load Test" of the battery. If the battery (yes I realize it's new ;-) has an internal fault or "bad cell", you would get 12.x V in (1) & 10.x V in (2).

Everything so far points to bad Starter, but need to rule everything else OUT before spending time/money.

George

I have taken this into account, the battery that I was recommended wasn't a genuine BMW battery but I got the Duralast Gold, cranking at 730 amps. The battery type is an AGM type. I'll go test out the voltage at the terminals as well and see what is showing up. Thank you for understanding that I want to rule out everything instead of buying and testing things. The clicking always comes from the front, I have a friend stand in front of my car and with the manifold off, it's coming directly at the starter solenoid.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by austinse90

...I got the Duralast Gold, cranking at 730 amps. The battery type is an AGM type. I'll go test out the voltage at the terminals as well and see what is showing up. Thank you for understanding that I want to rule out everything instead of buying and testing things. The clicking always comes from the front, I have a friend stand in front of my car and with the manifold off, it's coming directly at the starter solenoid.

If the "CLICK" is a single click (NOT a repeated "ratchet-like" clicking), the Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood is > 12.0 V, the engine ground strap is intact (and you have a supplemental ground jumper attached between the Chassis & Engine) AND the B+ connector to the Solenoid (Large Wire) is NOT loose, then it appears you have a "New/Reman Starter" in your future.

I'm a "Bottom-Fisherman" (CHEAP) and always do all reasonable tests to rule out something OTHER than component failure, but a Starter Motor is NOT that expensive, and replacement NOT that difficult, particularly if you already have the Intake removed:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/k...7-335i/starter
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-33...starter_motor/

You did NOT say what TYPE of battery was IN the vehicle when you replaced it with Duralast Gold. If you DON'T know, or don't know what it's Amp-hour (Capacity, NOT Cranking Amps) rating was, I would suggest AFTER you get the car to start, checking those settings in the DME/CAS related to Power Management. To have your new battery properly charged, it is necessary to have correct (1) Battery Type, and (2) Amp-hour Capacity Settings in the DME/CAS, and any shop with BMW Software can do that if you don't have the necessary Scan Tool or Software (BMW Standard Tools). You ALSO need to know the Ah rating of your new battery, or at least get the "Reserve Capacity" from which Ah rating can be computed.

George