[fortythirtyfive]

FWIW I did mine at 80k miles and I used a febi bilstein cover. 3k miles later and I've had zero issues so far - the cover was identical to the OEM one, no weird thread changes on the cover as per some of the replacements. Febi are a German OE aftermarket brand with a good rep.

Where I made a mistake though was buying an uprated vent hose pipe, I bought the Gates EMH334 pipe which is far too short. It's a shame as the build quality is much better, it's rubber not plastic so it won't turn brittle, the connectors are aluminium rather than plastic and the outer part isn't some tatty plastic sleeving it's quite a thick smooth foam. After trying to stretch it I broke my turbo inlet side fitting so I took the liberty of upgrading to the MST one and sticking with a BMW vent pipe.

[SlumsToMills]

Just finished mine yesterday at 72k miles.

My tip after 4-6 hours of trying to put back on the valve cover is to REMOVE the 26 bolts to make things easier to slide on with no obstacles.

Go slow and steady. Aluminum bolts can break so dont over torque or tighten.
I didnt break anything during this process. Not even the vent hose (which i didnt remove btw). Phew n

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by Burnout

Intriguing to read this, to me that seemed logical to do given multiple accounts of the valvetronic gear wearing and leading to issues. However I’ve never read or seen a video confirming the squirter can be removed without pulling 2 of the 3 buckets the plugs and injectors sit in adjacent to it.

So to be 100% clear, you were able to remove/replace the squirter concurrent with a VCG change and no additional removals for access?

Now that I've done it, yes, I can confirm that you can replace the squirter by just removing a single (one-time use) bolt, once the valve cover is off. I've attached a photo of the new squirter installed in my car. It's just what it looks like... you remove that small eTorx, throw it away, and the squirter slides out. The replacement slides back in its place, held in place by the screw and the plastic of the Valvetronic motor.

[Rebound]

I've attached photos of the replacement. I have higher resolution if needed but hopefully this will display well. Here are the first ten.
Things I learned:

• The Elring Valve Cover is just fine.
• Remember to disconnect the 12V battery before you begin!!!
• Remove everything that's in your way, including both of the battery jump post cables.
• Using the tips of gloves to cover the injector ports works, but there's got to be a better way.
• Be careful not to drop bolts. I didn't drop any, but I'd hate to drop a fuel rail bolt (four bolts hold the fuel rail on at the intake side, and if one falls, heaven help you).
• The engine compartment brace uses one-time use bolts. That's four. Easy to replace a week later, though.
• Don't force the O2 sensor connectors apart. I can post a detailed photo if you need.
• Same thing with the fuel injector electrical connectors. You release a tab with a pick tool and they slide right apart. Do not force.
• Great time to replace your spark plugs!
• Reassembly went FAST!!! This job is pretty easy once you know how. If only I owned two of these cars...

[Rebound]

And here are ten more...

[Rebound]

And here are the rest...

[AmuroRay]

Someone want to do this for me so I can install my MILVS?

[Rebound]

Here's a closeup showing how to disconnect the O2 sensor cable. There are two of these.
The grey tab at the top of the photo is a locking tab. You just press it up a few mm's with a fingernail, then you pry upwards on the tab shown to release the catch, and the connector easily separates.
I put a zip tie around each side of one of the two cables. It made reassembly very fast.

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Someone want to do this for me so I can install my MILVS?

Sure, just drive your car up to Boston with the parts, hand me $500, and I'll get it all done.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Rebound

Sure, just drive your car up to Boston with the parts, hand me $500, and I'll get it all done.

I’m actually ok with this.

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

I’m actually ok with this.

Ok, hit the road!
I also make excellent cappuccinos. Here’s this morning’s pour…

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by 5w20

I’m 99% sure the OEM N55 VC is made by MAHLE. I could be wrong, but that’s what my memory is telling me. 😅

MAHLE may be the OEM or one of the OEM's, but I closely compared the two and all of the small circled details are the same on both.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Rebound

Ok, hit the road!
I also make excellent cappuccinos. Here’s this morning’s pour…

Well, I’m going to see when I can get off, can you make two? The wife loves coffee

[Burnout]

[QUOTE=Rebound;30080585]Now that I've done it, yes, I can confirm that you can replace the squirter by just removing a single (one-time use) bolt, once the valve cover is off. I've attached a photo of the new squirter installed in my car. It's just what it looks like... you remove that small eTorx, throw it away, and the squirter slides out. The replacement slides back in its place, held in place by the screw and the plastic of the Valvetronic motor.

Awesome thank you! I’m going to add this to my list for VGC replacement.

[Rebound]

[QUOTE=Burnout;30090262]

Originally Posted by Rebound

Now that I've done it, yes, I can confirm that you can replace the squirter by just removing a single (one-time use) bolt, once the valve cover is off. I've attached a photo of the new squirter installed in my car. It's just what it looks like... you remove that small eTorx, throw it away, and the squirter slides out. The replacement slides back in its place, held in place by the screw and the plastic of the Valvetronic motor.

Awesome thank you! I’m going to add this to my list for VGC replacement.

Other items to consider:
1) Spark plugs, if you’re close to the interval. Just because you will have everything apart and the ignition coils removed, so it takes another 15 minutes instead of two hours.
2) Cabin air filter. Replace maybe 2 weeks after vcg, since there will still be a little unburned oil you won’t be able to clean off. I figure I've had burnt oil flowing through the cabin filter, so it's a good idea to replace.
3) eTorx bolts for the engine brace, if your car has one. These are one time use
4) Plugs to cover the fuel injectors. Rubber glove tips kept falling off, sometimes into the spark plug wells.
5) Remove EVERYTHING that covers the valve cover. No shortcuts. Just be sure you’ve removed the 12V battery ground before starting.

[Revoltos]

Just a thought, does anyone know, if the Vanos actuator is subject to failures. How much extra work is it to take two of the spark plug/injector buckets out and change the actuator whilst doing the VC? Also, is there a way to determine cam chain wear when it is exposed? is there a figure/dimension for the slack between the vanos gears for instance? And finally. what, if any, visual indicators are there to look for on the eccentric shaft for wear, is it just deformation of the teeth on the gear?

Thanks to anyone in the know.

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by Revoltos

Just a thought, does anyone know, as the Vanos actuator is subject to failures. How much extra work is it to take two of the spark plug/injector buckets out and change the actuator whilst doing the VC? Also, is there a way to determine cam chain wear when it is exposed? is there a figure for the slack between the vanos pullies for instance? And finally. what, if any, visual indicators are there to look for on the eccentric shaft for wear, is it just deformation of the teeth on the gear?

Thanks to anyone in the know.

The squirter is easy to replace but the Valvetronic motor looks like a more complex procedure. I can look it up in my manual tonight. As a practical step, I wouldn’t replace the Valvetronic motor as preventative maintenance procedure unless maybe you open the engine and it’s full of sludge or you are experiencing symptoms.

[Revoltos]

Thanks for the reply rebound.
I'm a oil change every 5,000 miles and have been for 60 odd thousand so I would be suprised if sludge is an issue. Im at 80,000 miles now and the N55 does have occurances of valvetronic actuator failure (aswell as eccentric shaft wear) Just trying to group preventative maintenance with requires maintenance. Dont want to have to go back in there in a few thousand miles if the actuator starts twatting about.

Just for the UK guys. Sytner in Derby have quoted me £364 for a new valve cover. Ive struggled to find out if the OE cover is Elring, Febi or Mahle but £364 is only abit more than some of those brands on Autodoc.

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by Revoltos

Thanks for the reply rebound.
I'm a oil change every 5,000 miles and have been for 60 odd thousand so I would be suprised if sludge is an issue. Im at 80,000 miles now and the N55 does have occurances of valvetronic actuator failure (aswell as eccentric shaft wear) Just trying to group preventative maintenance with requires maintenance. Dont want to have to go back in there in a few thousand miles if the actuator starts twatting about.

Just for the UK guys. Sytner in Derby have quoted me £364 for a new valve cover. Ive struggled to find out if the OE cover is Elring, Febi or Mahle but £364 is only abit more than some of those brands on Autodoc.

If you're having issues it's certainly another story. I paid $264 USD for the Elring valve cover, and $15 USD for the Valvetronic seal with screws. The oil squirter and bolt were about $35 USD, and the four one-time use bolts for the engine brace were nearly $20 USD.

[Mkesler75]

Replaced my valve cover this weekend and adding a bit of commentary. Previous owner replaced just the gasket 5-6k miles ago due to leak. I started to get a bit of rough idle and did all the usual, plugs, coils, cleaned sensors, etc. No codes at all, random misfire via bimmerlink at cold startup. Once or twice the past 4 months heard some kind of high pitch whine, sounded like vacuum. Suspected my pvc so opted to swap out cover.

1. Opted to go with a cheap cover from autohauseAZ. Ordered from them in the past and had good quality parts. They have a branded cover for like $115. The thing is nearly identical to the oem, same markings, weight, stickers, etc. Fit perfectly, no issues at all. https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/AH-11127570292 wouldn’t hesitate using again.

2. I was able to get my crankcase breather hose off with the 3 washer trick easily. Unfortunetly the hose was brittle like a potato chip. It broke in 3 places. Heck, May have already been broke which caused my issues, can’t see it with the heat cover. I did just replace my trans cooler and removing the fan likley jostled this quite a bit. So as mentioned, have one ready! Fortunately the top and bottom fittings are easily removed and a 10” piece of quality vent tubing, heat rated and the heat sheath from the old one makes for an easy fix. Likley better than the oem replacement if still using that corrugated tubing.

3. It gets better. After buttoning everything up I go to reattach the crankcase hose and the plastic on the turbo inlet pipe just crumbled. Thankfully I was able to get the vent hose attached enuf for a good seal. However, I did have to order the CTS turbo inlet to replace. And it’s an awful job.

So just reiterating all the above. Have extra parts ready, get a good magnet retreval tool, an extra e-torx #10 and be ready for the unexpected.

Overall not a terriable job and it did fix my issue.

[Jvac]

Lots of good tips on this thread. Gotta do mine in the near future as I have noticed a small leak developing. It's disappointing at only 47k miles on the odo although my car is a 2015. Great car, terrible gaskets.

[halcyon_waves]

Just did mine today (2013 335i, PWG) and I found using Saran wrap pretty useful in covering the injector ports. I would pull it tight towards one direction and twist the remaining material to form a tight seal. I also thought about giving aluminum foil a try.

As for the valve cover itself, I went with Elring, which according to FCP Euro is OEM. It sure looks the part and fit like a glove. Even came with instructions for the bolt tightening sequence.

Now, onto a few questions/concerns:

1. I accidentally broke off one of the fuel injector tabs when disconnecting the little cable. I slid the connector back in and it still fits real snug, I even have to use a little force to get it back out. How important is this, and is it worth getting a new injector over? (I'm at 100k miles and wondering if I should just change all the injectors, but from what I've read, most agree that if they are fine just leave them.)

2. Bryan at Kiesmotorsports made a fuel injector video and mentioned that you shouldn't mix up the fuel injector connection cables. I really didn't pay attention to this, but I'm sure each one went back into the correct injector since the wires were all bent a certain way from being there for 100k miles. Sadly, I watched that video after I did the job. How important is this? Are they really not interchangeable?

3. I could not reach the bolt to remove the breather hose, so I left the old one on for now until I figure out a way. The video I watched showed a guy removing the expansion tank easily - after removing the 10mm, he simply pulled the tank to the side to gain enough clearance to the breather hose bolt. I'm not able to do this as my tank is firmly secured by what appears to be a giant plastic clip and it won't budge. Any tips on how to remove the expansion tank?

4. I definitely did not use a mirror to check if the gasket came loose during installation, but my valve cover did come with a pre-installed gasket that fit like a glove and barely budged. How concerned should I be? The valve cover pretty much dropped right into place and all the bolts threaded in nicely.