[therealdb1]

Ok it's not a sticky nor is it in this forum it is in coding but this is the one I was thinking of:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573

[doggy]

Thanks again for your help.

The cable included INPA on dvd & a download link for ISTA v4.27, (which I've managed to download to my desktop machine, but am struggling to get across to a laptop)
I note the links on the forum are for newer versions so I'll try that.

I'm pretty sure you're right and the ecu is fried, but I'd be happier if I established comms with at least something on the car

[therealdb1]

At least that would confirm it for you if INPA / ISTA communicate with all the modules except DME which is what we might expect given the look of the pcb.
If your AA man was a bit more clued up he should have noticed that but then I guess he only has a generic code reader and was only looking for the engine ECU. Perhaps it was raining and he wanted to get home!

You could try installing INPA from the disc to get you underway and get your module in the post to the repairer. Then fiddle about with ISTA while you are waiting for the module to be returned. I'm pretty sure you can have both installed as they run as apps in Windows.

[doggy]

I've spoken to BW Chiptune - they offer a refurbed later type MSD81 ecu set up for the car for roughly £1k - don't need my ecu, but do require key + CAS

Ouch

[therealdb1]

Ouch indeed!
Have you enquired at a BMW stealership just to put that into perspective?
I thought Jason used to repair other DME's this had happened to for hundreds rather than thousands but maybe I am wrong?

[doggy]

Not tried BMW direct yet but other people's recent experiences seem to be in the £1.7 to £2k+ region.

Looking into this and other alternatives.

[0l0dom0l0]

Oh dear. Not good news. Hope you get it fixed. Keep us posted.

[doggy]

A family friend runs a diesel/injector/remap business and has sent my ecu off to their repairer, likely to take about a week.

In the meantime I need to arm myself with a working diagnostic setup, which unfortunately means another laptop.

Also need to be certain it doesn't get drowned again. I haven't managed to get the ecu box out, (there's a lot more wiring to get in the way with the n53 engine vs the n47). Considering taking off the wheelarch liner and removing a grommet, or if there's no other option make a drain hole from below.

Any thoughts on this approach?

[therealdb1]

Pain needing a new laptop but a cheapy second hand one will do and you can keep it just for BMW diagnostics. You don't need anything OTT as INPA used to run in Windows XP and I still use a Windows 7 machine now. No point getting loadsa megs of ram and HDD capability as it is not needed nor is processor speed as it can only run as fast as the comms to the car anyway.

As for your grommet conundrum, do what you have to do to get a drain hole in the bottom of that space under the ECU box. You have to assume water will collect in there again as it seems quite a common problem so you need to let it out!

[doggy]

Thank you for the info.
Do you have a rough idea how much HDD space I'd need for INPA and any other utilities/info that are typically used?
Going to have another crack at getting the ecu box out, maybe moving the strut brace will help.
I'd like to see/clean the ecu box drain valve and drill/rust proof a drain hole. Be good to prove the box stays dry internally when there's a lot of water pouring into the space below.
I also want to find out when the ecu fan operates - just when it's hot or every time you start the car etc. Looks like there's a pipe linking fan airflow to the drain valve, possibly to clear debris

[therealdb1]

Suppliers recommend about 45 GB for the dianostic software but double that if you want to install all of the coding stuff too (and you will!)

As a matter of interest, when you tried to install before on your other laptop did you have realtime virus checkers running. The software doesn't appear to work with many of those mainly the built in Microsoft one. Just a thought.

[doggy]

Thanks, that's roughly what I thought.
The current machine only has a few GB spare, but I should have another later today. I'll check on the antivirus stuff too.

[0l0dom0l0]

I've had a look this morning at mine. Part curious part concerned. Mine was dry. Some very fine debris in the bottom.

I have come up with a number of possible issues you might be facing though.

1. Rubber seal between the big windscreen tray and car could be damaged/ need replacing
2. Rubber piece to the side of the windscreen tray not installed correctly
3. Scuttle drain blocked
4. Ecu lid rubber seal damaged

What I would suggest is possible replacing the windscreen seal, or at least giving it a good clean. Mine was full of shit and debris so I'll need to do the same at some point.

I would also flush your scuttle drain out. They may look clean but they narrow and trap dirt. They take quite a lot of water if you think about it (a lot from the windscreen) and a lot of shit goes through them as well. It wouldn't take much if the one was blocked for the water to back up.
It was one of the first things I did when I got the car, hoovered it out as deep as I could then used the hose to flush it out.

I couldn't see why it would be too difficult to remove the ECU tray but maybe I missed something. If you can I would certainly recommend that as well. The bit at the bottom should drain from what I can tell. At least that is the way it looks to have been designed.

In reality the tray shouldn't get much water in it so I would resist drilling holes at this stage until you have ruled out the other things.

Once you've cleaned the drains out, I'd be tempted to put the ECU lid back on, put the car back together, wash the car and spray a fair chunk of water on the windscreen. You'll soon see if that box fills up.

[Professor90]

It’s you dme and cas

[doggy]

Thanks for the replies.
Unfortunately ecu is totally dead, not even possible to recover any data so I'm going to get Jason & co to program a refurbished MSD81 DME using my key and CAS module.

[doggy]

While waiting for BW to send my DME/CAS/key, I decide to try and make sure I don't drown the new one. After a bit of a battle I eventually removed the ecu box to find, (1st pic below)

Cleared all of this out and noted that this drain spout from the scuttle/lower windscreen outer seal is clearly intended to drain into the ecu box well,
(2nd pic).

Also, when proving the main drains, (with the 'leave catcher' grilles), were clear it became obvious that while most of the water that gets under the bonnet takes the intended route a small percentage is almost certain to end up under the ecu box.

When I deliberately poured a jug of water into the ecu box recess, it didn't drain away at all. Surely some means of draining this area exists?

Only possibility I spotted was the small channel, (if that's what it is), leading to where the main drainage funnel passes through the inner wing - sort of visible, still full of crud in the 3rd picture below.

Removing the grommet you can see in the top pic, (in line with the ecu fan inlet and say 2" to the left), lets most of the water out quickly, leaving a couple of mm since the grommet is not at the lowest point.

Suspect I'll go for drilling say a 10mm hole as close to the lowest point as possible.

Next, I tested the ecu box drain valve by partially immersing the box in a bucket of water. It filled up pretty quickly to the level outside the box. After stripping and cleaning the valve, I got it to work as intended sometimes. I can't see it ever being dependable.

I'm still leaning toward sealing this up. I really can't see water getting into the box from above, so its only realistic purpose would be to allow any condensation to drain away.

The fan appears to be set up to extract hot air from just under the ecu box lid which would be replaced with presumably cooler air from behind the glovebox. Guessing the temperature is measured by the DME itself, which probably controls the fan too. If the air entering the box is chilled by the a/c maybe there is some possibility of condensation?

What do you think?

[0l0dom0l0]

Can't see the pictures?

[therealdb1]

Yes, the water does not come from above but seeps in through the bottom when the well cannot drain. It is a bit of a design flaw in that not all water from the windscreen area is directed to the large inner wing drain and some of it does end up under the ECU. Unfortunately, BMW's attempt to provide drainage for the well is inadequate and easily blocks without you knowing until your car starts playing silly buggers! A 10mm hole at the lowest point of the well seems like a good plan for fixing this not forgetting to paint the bare metal afterwards to prevent rust.
I cannot imagine condensation from the cool air blown in shall be much of a problem since if the a/c is running so is the engine and the underbonnet temperatures should keep even metal items well above the dew point. However, it is good practise to have the enclosure vented since the ambient air can be very damp at times like a foggy winter night. I am currently restoring a 40 year old boat and the most rotten wooden parts are those that have been sealed away being unable to breath. Wood that does get wet and you would expect to rot hasn't because it has been able to dry out again.
Ultimately, if the well drainage is good, and you check it routinely you should not have any further problems with flooding the ECU.

[doggy]

Hopefully I've fixed the pictures in my previous post.....

Today I removed the drain 'funnel' completely, (see below). After clearing that lot out and flushing repeatedly I can now run the garden hose down there full bore and the ecu box space stays completely dry. (Hark the sound of stable door belatedly slamming shut).

Attempted the same thing on the driver's side, but gave up on removing the funnel, settled for scooping out as much crud as possible and flushing out afterwards. (On reflection, this is all you need to do anyway).

[0l0dom0l0]

So is that last picture essentially the guts of the side drain (the one with the grill on) on the passenger side?

[doggy]

No, its the driver's side.
I wasn't able to access the lowest of the three drain fixings on the passenger side as its buried under the abs unit, plus there was less need to take it out.
After clearing the driver's side, I just fished as much debris out of the passenger side drain as possible, then poked a hose down there and washed the remainder clear.

It's entirely possible to make a thorough job of this without removing anything other than the grilles at the top. My concern would be that with everything else in place, you'd have no idea how much if any water wound up under the ecu box.

[doggy]

Car is up and running again, thanks to BW. They supplied a refurbished MSD81 DME, programmed to suit my CAS + key. That got it running and I drove it there yesterday to get the injectors coded etc. I'm impressed with their knowledge and capabilities.

The bad news is I now have a list of other problems including a suspect water pump, at least one injector, (meaning a minimum of 3), fuel pressure sensor and battery sensor.

Think I'll concentrate on the water pump first. I'm thinking a Pierburg pump looks like a safe / cost effective option, but I'll do a bit more research beforehand.

Still haven't managed to get diagnostic software talking to it.