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      07-01-2021, 04:02 PM   #23
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sit just Buy DSP ... second hand zapco or Helix ... this amp is a 500Damping to 2 ohm ... RD XD too and you 6 channel is a 150 .... just to understand the potential of this AMPS remember you need mid bass not a subs under seats ... see 30 --500Hz Audison ... Jehnert not a actual now ...
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      07-01-2021, 05:03 PM   #24
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Most of the better amps (not sub amps ) have a pass through for subs.
If they don't easier to grab a signal at the Inputs of an aftermarket amp.
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      07-01-2021, 08:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slayerx View Post
First let me say I have read threw all the posts about upgrading the audio system in a BMW e90 and most are old and suggestions are discontinued.

With that said I have already got the majority of my parts and am just looking for the under seat woofers. I have the hifi system so What I already have is

Technic harness
Bavsound stage 1 for doors
Powered by JL audio xd600/6v2
Built a custom sub box with a single JL audio 10w3 2 ohm firing threw the ski pass cutout
Powered by a Jl audio 500/1

Now I have read that the factory underseat woofers burn up easy with 75 watts of power to them so I figure might aswell upgrade them and do not want to go with bavsound ghost woofers mainly for the cost and what I have already spent. I want the underseat woofers to be midbass since I will have the dedicated trunk sub.

I looked for the jenhert's but they are not available in the US and couldn't find anyplace that ships to the US so what else could I get that would be a drop in replacement?

Also on the 600/6 can I bridge channels 5&6 only to run the underseat woofers by connecting both woofers output wires from the technic harness together to the amp yerminals?
And since the front and rear speakers are 4 ohm would I be able to run the woofers at 2ohm?
I also am thinking of getting a dsp but can't decide if I should go with the Jl audio twk-88 or audio control dm-608 which would be better?

I am looking for sound quality and loudness not to rattle the car with bass, any input and suggestions are welcomed since I am a complete novice with car audio..
thanks in advance,
A few things,

1) I'd get the speakers you want first.

2) the Jehnert under the seat subs are the best money can buy for our cars. Use the link provided and get some.

3) if you don't have speakers in the rear doors, put some in. This is not difficult at all

4) if you don't have speakers in the rear put some in.

5) You will want a quality center channel speaker. I'd get an individual audio center channel. Part # 65137838915 / get it on eBay.

6) return the 500/1 JL audio amp & get a JL Audio XD700/5v2

7) JL Audio XD600/6v2 is a great choice to run all of your regular speakers.

8) I think the JBL DSP4086 is a great, inexpensive choice for a DSP.

Do you have an after mkt head unit?

Set up :

Run everything through your DSP & out to the amp.

You will need a technique harness

One jacketed RCA cable from the head unit to the DSP.

Run wires from DSP to the JL Audio Amps

Run wires from the JL Audio amps to your speakers

JL Audio 6 channel:
Channel 1 = left front door
Channel 2 = right front door
Channel 3 = center channel
Channel 4 = left side / parallel rear door & rear shelf speakers
Channel 5 = right side / parallel rear door rear shelf speakers

Channel 6 = empty

JL Audio 5/1 =

1 or bridged 1 & 2 - under seat sub
2 or bridged 3 & 4 - under seat sub

1 - trunk sub

DSP

1) JL Audio 6 channel - left door
2) JL Audio 6 channel - right door
3) JL Audio 6 channel - center channel
4) JL Audio 6 channel - left rear door / shelf
5) JL Audio 6 channel - right rear door / shelf
6) JL Audio 5 channel - left under seat sub
7) JL Audio 5 channel - right under seat sub
8) Trunk Sub

You will absolutely, positively what a high quality crimping tool & a lot of butt terminals. You will also want a good wire cutter/stripper tool as well.
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      07-02-2021, 04:11 AM   #26
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not return JD 500 /1 is a perfect amp with 1000 damping factor ...

you have onl one better step get DSP ... not a problem for a second hand ... but need a know Helix and Zapco now is a TOP
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      07-02-2021, 08:39 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
A few things,

1) I'd get the speakers you want first.

2) the Jehnert under the seat subs are the best money can buy for our cars. Use the link provided and get some.

3) if you don't have speakers in the rear doors, put some in. This is not difficult at all

4) if you don't have speakers in the rear put some in.

5) You will want a quality center channel speaker. I'd get an individual audio center channel. Part # 65137838915 / get it on eBay.

6) return the 500/1 JL audio amp & get a JL Audio XD700/5v2

7) JL Audio XD600/6v2 is a great choice to run all of your regular speakers.

8) I think the JBL DSP4086 is a great, inexpensive choice for a DSP.

Do you have an after mkt head unit?

Set up :

Run everything through your DSP & out to the amp.

You will need a technique harness

One jacketed RCA cable from the head unit to the DSP.

Run wires from DSP to the JL Audio Amps

Run wires from the JL Audio amps to your speakers

JL Audio 6 channel:
Channel 1 = left front door
Channel 2 = right front door
Channel 3 = center channel
Channel 4 = left side / parallel rear door & rear shelf speakers
Channel 5 = right side / parallel rear door rear shelf speakers

Channel 6 = empty

JL Audio 5/1 =

1 or bridged 1 & 2 - under seat sub
2 or bridged 3 & 4 - under seat sub

1 - trunk sub

DSP

1) JL Audio 6 channel - left door
2) JL Audio 6 channel - right door
3) JL Audio 6 channel - center channel
4) JL Audio 6 channel - left rear door / shelf
5) JL Audio 6 channel - right rear door / shelf
6) JL Audio 5 channel - left under seat sub
7) JL Audio 5 channel - right under seat sub
8) Trunk Sub

You will absolutely, positively what a high quality crimping tool & a lot of butt terminals. You will also want a good wire cutter/stripper tool as well.
I am using the factory hi-fi head unit so no RCA output from that, I have the technic harness that goes in the trunk where factory amp is, and has the 2 channels of RCA outputs.

I do not have rear door speakers but have them in my rear deck which my doors and rear deck are bav sound stage 1 setup with tweeters added in the rear deck.

I decided to hold off on replacing the under seat woofers for now and go with the DSP first, I can't afford both at the moment considering I just bought all the rest of the system, and did a bunch of other mods to the car, front and rear m3 rep bumpers and side skirts, shocks and struts, waterpump, thermostat, coolant expansion tank and all hoses, wrapped the whole car and a few other things so my budget is spent for now lol.

I'm just afraid if I get the under seat woofers first I will then want the dsp and will end up in divorce court lmao
I just hope I am capable of tuning the dsp and not just wasting my money on something I won't be able to get to sound good.


We're you saying to run all new wires to each speaker or use the outputs from technic harness? And the jl 500/1 only has 2 output connections so to run that to a single sub I just use one set of + and - correct?
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      07-03-2021, 07:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slayerx View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
A few things,

1) I'd get the speakers you want first.

2) the Jehnert under the seat subs are the best money can buy for our cars. Use the link provided and get some.

3) if you don't have speakers in the rear doors, put some in. This is not difficult at all

4) if you don't have speakers in the rear put some in.

5) You will want a quality center channel speaker. I'd get an individual audio center channel. Part # 65137838915 / get it on eBay.

6) return the 500/1 JL audio amp & get a JL Audio XD700/5v2

7) JL Audio XD600/6v2 is a great choice to run all of your regular speakers.

8) I think the JBL DSP4086 is a great, inexpensive choice for a DSP.

Do you have an after mkt head unit?

Set up :

Run everything through your DSP & out to the amp.

You will need a technique harness

One jacketed RCA cable from the head unit to the DSP.

Run wires from DSP to the JL Audio Amps

Run wires from the JL Audio amps to your speakers

JL Audio 6 channel:
Channel 1 = left front door
Channel 2 = right front door
Channel 3 = center channel
Channel 4 = left side / parallel rear door & rear shelf speakers
Channel 5 = right side / parallel rear door rear shelf speakers

Channel 6 = empty

JL Audio 5/1 =

1 or bridged 1 & 2 - under seat sub
2 or bridged 3 & 4 - under seat sub

1 - trunk sub

DSP

1) JL Audio 6 channel - left door
2) JL Audio 6 channel - right door
3) JL Audio 6 channel - center channel
4) JL Audio 6 channel - left rear door / shelf
5) JL Audio 6 channel - right rear door / shelf
6) JL Audio 5 channel - left under seat sub
7) JL Audio 5 channel - right under seat sub
8) Trunk Sub

You will absolutely, positively what a high quality crimping tool & a lot of butt terminals. You will also want a good wire cutter/stripper tool as well.
I am using the factory hi-fi head unit so no RCA output from that, I have the technic harness that goes in the trunk where factory amp is, and has the 2 channels of RCA outputs.

I do not have rear door speakers but have them in my rear deck which my doors and rear deck are bav sound stage 1 setup with tweeters added in the rear deck.

I decided to hold off on replacing the under seat woofers for now and go with the DSP first, I can't afford both at the moment considering I just bought all the rest of the system, and did a bunch of other mods to the car, front and rear m3 rep bumpers and side skirts, shocks and struts, waterpump, thermostat, coolant expansion tank and all hoses, wrapped the whole car and a few other things so my budget is spent for now lol.

I'm just afraid if I get the under seat woofers first I will then want the dsp and will end up in divorce court lmao
I just hope I am capable of tuning the dsp and not just wasting my money on something I won't be able to get to sound good.


We're you saying to run all new wires to each speaker or use the outputs from technic harness? And the jl 500/1 only has 2 output connections so to run that to a single sub I just use one set of + and - correct?
We're you saying to run all new wires to each speaker or use the outputs from technic harness? And the jl 500/1 only has 2 output connections so to run that to a single sub I just use one set of + and - correct?

Buy in the future :

1) BMW individual audio center channel - 65137838915

2) BMW speakers for the rear doors - 65137838916

Behind the door panels there will be cut outs for both tweeters & speakers. All you need is a hole saw and an exacto knife

3) A two or 4 channel amp to run the underneath subs

4) you will need to run speaker wire from any speaker to the harness that you add as you are not pre-wired.

5) run the rca to the technique harness; it should have rca connectors on it unless you bought the one for the logic 7 set up. The speaker wires should go from the amp to the sub.

If you get a DSP, you probably will have to get the technique harness for the logic 7.

Save yourself $200 & get the JBL DSP.

There are a lot of videos on how to set up a DSP for the e90. there's actually two on this forum.
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      07-03-2021, 05:58 PM   #29
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Why do you suggest center channel so much? It ruins the stereo and imaging of overall sound.

It's not easy to properly tune it (quite many steps) plus you loose one dsp channel to it. Much rather suggest him have some simple and proper 3 way front system + subwoofer. That is the baseline and easiest to work with.

Then should buy a microphone (UMIK-1) for example and fix the EQ and any dips in frequencies/phases - get speakers to play equal. If you have filled every hole with spaker that is not automatically better sound but more towards a nightmare to tune.

Rear parcel seakers should be very last on the list when you have nothing else to do on saturday afternoon.

And honestly anything from the rear is kind of pointless from the driver standpoint (i left stock speakers there and run from mono cause run out of dsp channels + mono is not ideal and let them be quieter to not disturb the front ones) but you should time align every speaker to get full effect of dsp.

The experience to hear the music playing in front of you is just amazing and should be one of goals with systems with dsp. With flac source you can locate different instruments/singer position and that is icing on the cake.
Mp3 not so much - all is blended together (the usual low quality 7mb files).

I've heard center channel and it kinda messes up all the frontstage it like draws frontstage slightly towards the right. But the guy demoing was used to it and liked "wrong staging". Sure, can add it if you just want louder by extra speaker.
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      07-03-2021, 07:23 PM   #30
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when we go to a concert the stage scene is just in front!

no need a CENTRAL !!! only front + you sub = 8 channel
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      07-12-2021, 06:28 PM   #31
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I ordered the mini dsp umk-1 mic, got a real good deal on a JL audio twk 88 so I picked that up and it got delivered today, tomorrow is the mic being delivered then just waiting on a fuse block and some led lights before I can get more done this weekend.

Now one thing I can't figure out is I contacted bavsound to see what their speakers wattage is and they said they are 45watts rms and my amp is pushing 70 watts rms to each speaker and underseat woofer.

So I figure I just set my gains low, so again emailed bavsound to see what the ohms of my speakers actually are and the guy said that my amp won't work as it is to powerful and will void the warranty. And also said the speakers are 4 ohm and other said 8ohm does anyone know the actual ohms? If they are 8 ohm will they still work with my 600/6?

And what is the ohm rating for the factory hifi underseat woofers?
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      07-12-2021, 09:41 PM   #32
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The factory speakers are 2 ohm (for Hi Fi )but the factory amp is incredibly weak in the
case of Hi Fi . Read the links supplied. (They use 2 ohm speakers to give cheater specs
that are at 10 percent distortion at the stated voltage for the OEM stuff)

This why I won't buy Bavsound Speakers they won't tell you the Specs.
They are made to run off the stock amp.
Yet they are now selling the Helix BMW 7 which has a lot more wattage.
I wonder how they are resolving that.
I have the the stock Hi Fi speakers in the back seats still but I have the
gain and zero and have them faded out at -4 I think.
The rears are running at 100 watts a channel with my xd 600/6 with that calculation.
I am running Morel Dotechs on the Front. They need hardly any gain with the
Xd 600/6 the Jehnert underseats are not quite halfway on gain.

Bavsound makes there speakers at two different ohms ratings I believe.

BMW stereo types
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/
http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html
http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/e...n-752.1275694/
base system wiring pre/post 3/09
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904
Base System Guide
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...5&d=1493273253

Last edited by ctuna; 07-12-2021 at 09:50 PM..
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      07-13-2021, 07:37 AM   #33
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The more I think about it the more I wish I didn't jump the gun and buy the bav speakers, but since I did and cant spend on another set right now I will just power them up woth the jl amp and see how they do. I was just trying to figure out the ohms to use a DMM to set my gains.
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      07-13-2021, 10:54 AM   #34
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only for info Helix DSP have -30db to +5db Gain ... not a problem to Song 30W Speakers to 70 W amp
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      07-13-2021, 05:12 PM   #35
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Can I just jump on the thread here as there seems to be a lot of knowledgeable people here. I have a base system, so no amp at all. I was looking to upgrade my standard speakers to the MTX kit, adding tweeters to the sail panels.

No, I will have to run the door speakers and tweets off the headunit as base has no amp. I can install a small amp for the underfloor mids/subs but using a hilevel input amp. However, I also have a JL Audio e6450, which would be perfect to run all the speakers from if I ran fresh wires from the JL installed in the boot, but I guess I'll lose all sound from the car, such as parking sensors etc? Is there another way around this?
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      07-14-2021, 12:17 AM   #36
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If you read the links in entry 32 you will be well on your way to understanding
what it is you need to do.

plus

Base System Upgrades
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1378833
base system wiring pre/post 3/09
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tDpLJPcGkw_ui_
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1411521234
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=Dotech
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=550771
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445266
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581379
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494299
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451941
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+upgrade
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1003810
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822366
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...morel-jbl.html
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1411521234
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634957
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495855
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1411521234
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634957

We post this answer over and over again because it is one of the most asked question's
here . Please read the Links.
Also the audio build sticky link.

Last edited by ctuna; 07-14-2021 at 05:16 PM..
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      07-14-2021, 04:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McPikie View Post
Can I just jump on the thread here as there seems to be a lot of knowledgeable people here. I have a base system, so no amp at all. I was looking to upgrade my standard speakers to the MTX kit, adding tweeters to the sail panels.

No, I will have to run the door speakers and tweets off the headunit as base has no amp. I can install a small amp for the underfloor mids/subs but using a hilevel input amp. However, I also have a JL Audio e6450, which would be perfect to run all the speakers from if I ran fresh wires from the JL installed in the boot, but I guess I'll lose all sound from the car, such as parking sensors etc? Is there another way around this?
Why would you think you loose any car module specific sounds?

The purpose of a amp is to just amplify sound signal from source (HU in our case) and pass the signal to speakers. So there's that.

But you loose rather big spectrum portion of frequencies if you plan on staying stereo coding. It's highly modified and specific for base speakers. Very little bass and tweeters will scream at you even if using -6db.

Tomorrow i'll try experiment with coding, had some ideas. With M-ASK navigaation unit it might be possible to have high level signal with flat EQ this should give much better s/n ratio compared to low level. And since it's (M-Ask) is not common here the hifi coding was not really flat unless you used "e60_flat" option.
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