[jlegelis]

One more time: Did you get a proper boost leak tester so you can DIY the testing instead of looking to parts diagrams for tea leave or relying on the dealer for smoke tests? They are like $60, far less than you've spent on other stuff.

And +1 on plugs and coils... I noted some big corrections in the logs too.

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by jlegelis

One more time: Did you get a proper boost leak tester so you can DIY the testing instead of looking to parts diagrams for tea leave or relying on the dealer for smoke tests? They are like $60, far less than you've spent on other stuff.

And +1 on plugs and coils... I noted some big corrections in the logs too.

Yes, I spent another weekend pressure testing to find nothing. Could the boost and stft be effected from the area I live in? I live in a mountainous area but I don't know if it would have that much of an impact, it's not as extreme as Colorado but I'm still almost 2000ft above sea level. Also plugs and coils just came in waiting for the weekend to install!

[njang92]

Originally Posted by robsonap

Thanks for the reply! I'll get the coils and plugs next then. When I bought this car I was expecting to have to put some money into it to get it running correctly before going fbo. I guess I got lucky with the 335 and the only issue that seem to be the boost leak so far. I've scanned it with ista and have no failing modules or codes of any kind.

Is the diagram I have of the vacuum lines correct? I know the n54 has a lot of vacuum lines so this diagram seems a little bare compared to those. As for the pcv is there another way to test that other then the match test? And when pcv goes out, would I just replace the cover seal or the whole gasket?

When I do the datalog I have my dtc off completely and I'm running on 93. I've heard the log is supposed to be a 3rd pull only, no other gears. If I'm doing this wrong, please let me know! Thanks again for the reply!

I think there are a few more lines on top of the PCV system too. That just looks like the solenoid diagram. If replacing (and I would strongly advise against it unless you know 100% for sure this is the issue) I would go with both the valve and gasket. Check under your engine cover and fuel rails and see if anything is loose or cracked. I've seen clips on the PCV system snap off, but those issues usually present a high pitched air noise when coming to a stop.

I also recommend putting load on the car in G.Park and look what your trims are doing in a log. Hold a steady rpm for a few seconds and monitor. Our cars tend to run naturally lean and your log has pretty negative trims which would usually contradict an air leak.

+1 on the boost leak testing kit tho. That will be the end all be all.

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by njang92

I think there are a few more lines on top of the PCV system too. That just looks like the solenoid diagram. If replacing (and I would strongly advise against it unless you know 100% for sure this is the issue) I would go with both the valve and gasket. Check under your engine cover and fuel rails and see if anything is loose or cracked. I've seen clips on the PCV system snap off, but those issues usually present a high pitched air noise when coming to a stop.

I also recommend putting load on the car in G.Park and look what your trims are doing in a log. Hold a steady rpm for a few seconds and monitor. Our cars tend to run naturally lean and your log has pretty negative trims which would usually contradict an air leak.

+1 on the boost leak testing kit tho. That will be the end all be all.

I have been leak testing, when I do the car can build up to 10 psi and leaks anything over, I've checked all connections and haven't found the leak still. When pressure testing I can hear air escaping from engine coming from the oil cap being removed but I'm assuming that's normal. Also I installed the plugs and coils and still have some cyl timing errors. Any advice helps! Thanks!

[jlegelis]

Wait, are you testing with the oil cap off? Don't think that's correct. Post a log...

[wheela]

I believe they recommend to do the boost test with the oil cap off so you don't build up pressure in the crankcase and blow the diaphragm on your PCV valve.

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by jlegelis

Wait, are you testing with the oil cap off? Don't think that's correct. Post a log...

https://datazap.me/u/robsonap/stage-...38;mark=108-96

[njang92]

Originally Posted by robsonap

I have been leak testing, when I do the car can build up to 10 psi and leaks anything over, I've checked all connections and haven't found the leak still. When pressure testing I can hear air escaping from engine coming from the oil cap being removed but I'm assuming that's normal. Also I installed the plugs and coils and still have some cyl timing errors. Any advice helps! Thanks!

WGDC is only at 65% so it's not like your turbo is working it's hardest to make boost and it's leaking. In my experiences with boost leaks, I'm lucky to even get the stock 6-8psi with high WGDC whereas you're holding 10 throughout your run with more possible output. (Only targeting 12-13).

Your car is pulling timing trying to prevent knock in that log. You can try to switch around your coils/plugs in the cyls and see if the timing corrections follow in the cyls swapped. Assuming you went OEM parts with those? Torqued to spec?

Basic factors for timing correction are IAT,map too aggressive,spark plugs,coils,bad fuel. Other than that, you'll be looking at fueling troubleshooting.

Have you tried flashing back to stock and seeing if you're still under target?

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by njang92

WGDC is only at 65% so it's not like your turbo is working it's hardest to make boost and it's leaking. In my experiences with boost leaks, I'm lucky to even get the stock 6-8psi with high WGDC whereas you're holding 10 throughout your run with more possible output. (Only targeting 12-13).

Your car is pulling timing trying to prevent knock in that log. You can try to switch around your coils/plugs in the cyls and see if the timing corrections follow in the cyls swapped. Assuming you went OEM parts with those? Torqued to spec?

Basic factors for timing correction are IAT,map too aggressive,spark plugs,coils,bad fuel. Other than that, you'll be looking at fueling troubleshooting.

Have you tried flashing back to stock and seeing if you're still under target?

I went with oem Bosch plugs and Delphi coils. The plugs were pregapped should I change the gapping? I'll try rearranging them tomorrow, and post another log.

Stock tune datalog
https://datazap.me/u/robsonap/stage-...&data=3-13

[jlegelis]

also what are you using for fuel? at least a quality 93 premium I assume? if you have access throw in 2.5 gallon of E85 and you'll have a E15 blend which should take care of any timing corrections.

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by jlegelis

also what are you using for fuel? at least a quality 93 premium I assume? if you have access throw in 2.5 gallon of E85 and you'll have a E15 blend which should take care of any timing corrections.

I'm using 93. Also could running the e85 make the knock worse? I have no experience with it. I was also reading in another forum it could be the injectors, but y'all were saying according to the datalog it shows I'm running rich, should I rule out the injectors?

[njang92]

Yeah cylinders 2,5, and 6 don't look too happy even on a stock flash. Boost numbers look way better, though I understand how frustrating it could be hitting target stock, but not at stage 1.

If you don't have access to eth, maybe add some octane booster and see if that helps at all.

Any adaptations you reset yet? Could help with troubleshooting but probably won't "solve" anything.

What was the outside temp for that latest log? Your iats climb to 90*F and will be warmer when flashed stg 1 bc the more boost you add, the hotter the air coming out of the turbo is. If I remember correctly, +20*F above outside temp would be getting into overheating territory and lead to heat soak. So in theory, if you did a pull after that log, you'd be heat soaked (assuming your temps were about 70 degrees) which would lead to those timing corrections. Just my 2¢.

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by njang92

Yeah cylinders 2,5, and 6 don't look too happy even on a stock flash. Boost numbers look way better, though I understand how frustrating it could be hitting target stock, but not at stage 1.

If you don't have access to eth, maybe add some octane booster and see if that helps at all.

Any adaptations you reset yet? Could help with troubleshooting but probably won't "solve" anything.

What was the outside temp for that latest log? Your iats climb to 90*F and will be warmer when flashed stg 1 bc the more boost you add, the hotter the air coming out of the turbo is. If I remember correctly, +20*F above outside temp would be getting into overheating territory and lead to heat soak. So in theory, if you did a pull after that log, you'd be heat soaked (assuming your temps were about 70 degrees) which would lead to those timing corrections. Just my 2¢.

I'll try putting in a little eth today and send another log. What do you mean by adaptations? And also I have a 5in vrsf fmic installed, shouldnt my IAT be lower?

[robsonap]

I did 2 new logs

Cold start datalog with e15 mix
https://datazap.me/u/robsonap/stage-...&data=4-16

3rd gear datalog with e15 mix
https://datazap.me/u/robsonap/stage-...&data=4-16

[njang92]

There are adaptations your car learns over time for trims, maf, throttle position, etc. You can reset them in MHD to (possibly) help problem solving. For example if you have largely negative or positive trims and "fix them" you can reset your adaptations so your car learns the new trims without taking the time "teaching" your car out of the old values.

Should your iats be lower? Not sure without knowing outside temps, but maybe. I have the same fmic and I'm rarely overheating.

WGDC is still only 50% and you're still having consistent timing corrections on the same cylinders. Not sure if OTS mhd tunes keep wgdc low, but that seems low to me for a turbo with 80k miles at wot. I'm hitting higher wgdc through my pulls on a 60k mile turbo, granted I usually target for 15-17psi target. Can you check your wg actuator arm for shits and giggles?

I'll attach a pic of an average log for me, you can see my iats actually drop 2 degrees during my pulls and my trims are within +-5 from 25 (which is 0 on jb4 with bef) and my wgdc is higher.

[robsonap]

Originally Posted by njang92

There are adaptations your car learns over time for trims, maf, throttle position, etc. You can reset them in MHD to (possibly) help problem solving. For example if you have largely negative or positive trims and "fix them" you can reset your adaptations so your car learns the new trims without taking the time "teaching" your car out of the old values.

Should your iats be lower? Not sure without knowing outside temps, but maybe. I have the same fmic and I'm rarely overheating.

WGDC is still only 50% and you're still having consistent timing corrections on the same cylinders. Not sure if OTS mhd tunes keep wgdc low, but that seems low to me for a turbo with 80k miles at wot. I'm hitting higher wgdc through my pulls on a 60k mile turbo, granted I usually target for 15-17psi target. Can you check your wg actuator arm for shits and giggles?

I'll attach a pic of an average log for me, you can see my iats actually drop 2 degrees during my pulls and my trims are within +-5 from 25 (which is 0 on jb4 with bef) and my wgdc is higher.

I think I fixed the cyl timing! I cleaned the vanos solenoids and only have a correction in cyl 3. I have to take a real log to make sure, I logged a short drive not proper format at all. It was looked like it was fixed though.

For the WG adjustment what exactly am I looking for and adjusting. I watched a few videos and when I felt mine it was a lot more firm than what was fixed in the videos. It still had some slight play but I couldn't get it to "rattle" by hand.

[njang92]

Good news! Hopefully it stays that way. Amazing what some cleaner on the vanos solenoids can do. Helped with some unrelated issues on mine that way as well.

For WG adjustments, there are some decent threads on here about it. I've never had to do it so wouldn't feel confident opining on it or even telling you that you need to do it. I run JB4 which has a few handy WG adjustment options, but I think MHD is pretty limited in that capacity so you'd be looking at pulling the turbo out and messing around with it. Not fun.

Once those timing corrections work themselves out you may start seeing higher WGDC and higher boost actual, so it may not even need a second look. That also could be normal for MHD ots tunes or stock tune. I wouldn't bust your a** on that one. I just wanted to point it out bc if you had a boost leak, you'd be seeing higher wgdc numbers and more deviation between target boost and actual.

[AlvaroN55]

Originally Posted by robsonap

I have a 2011 335i X-Drive and am losing some boost. I just tuned my car to stage 1 with mhd and noticed it when I was monitoring the tune. I'm new to the bmw scene and figured the forums would be the best place to try and find a fix. The cars completely stock besides the charge pipe and I checked if that's leaking but it's not. Im about to hit 80k and I know the water pump has issues around then but I have no engine codes currently. Any info helps! Thanks!


https://datazap.me/u/robsonap/stage-...og=0&data=3-12

(I don't think I logged this test correctly, but I'm going to do another log tonight, I heard you're supposed to do a pull from 3rd at 2 rpm, but didn't know that at the time I logged this)

The best fastest way to check the boost solenoid is by bypassing it with one 1/8 barb straight connector