[Bims328i]

Yikes, I'm honestly surprised they gave you so much trouble. Did mine last year and they both came out pretty easy. If you put the o-ring on the solenoid, they are a pain to install.

Put a thin coat of motor oil on the o-ring and the solenoid where it will contact the o-ring and put it in down in the shoulder rather than on the solenoid.

For some reason they are way easier to install having the o-ring down in the shoulder first.

Also while on the topic, I bought some of the cheap Vaico solenoids and the car ran like crap the second time I started it up. Genuine replacements fixed it long-term.

Didn't think about it at the time but pretty sure the issue was they were not even the right part. You can see here the ports are not correct

[NMSUman]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Yikes, I'm honestly surprised they gave you so much trouble. Did mine last year and they both came out pretty easy. If you put the o-ring on the solenoid, they are a pain to install.

Put a thin coat of motor oil on the o-ring and the solenoid where it will contact the o-ring and put it in down in the shoulder rather than on the solenoid.

For some reason they are way easier to install having the o-ring down in the shoulder first.

Also while on the topic, I bought some of the cheap Vaico solenoids and the car ran like crap the second time I started it up. Genuine replacements fixed it long-term.

Didn't think about it at the time but pretty sure the issue was they were not even the right part. You can see here the ports are not correct

So I haven't seen the aftermath. But the one exhaust solenoid came out with new issues when I tried to swap them out. The night before the appointment. But it was so wedged in the port that it apparently snapped off inside.

It might have snapped at the point where it steps down. Which if the ports weren't aligned correctly might explain why I wasn't able to keep good power at 1500 RPM.

I hope the keep the parts they take out so I can see and share with the forum.

[NMSUman]

So, car is back from dealership. Both VANOS Solenoids replaced (now second time). Genuine BMW Parts now.

You can see the broken intake Solenoid (see broken, now two-piece solenoid). Took extra effort to remove. The flange and electrical port were mangled on the process. So glad I didn't keep trying as a shade-tree mechanic to break it off myself.

Now:

• No codes.
• No jerking at 1500 RPM.
• Just straight N54 power as it is supposed to be.

Thanks to the team at BMW of Bel Air for being kind and having a steady hand when extracting the end-piece that broke off and remained lodged in the block. Most importantly for not dropping it down the timing chain area into the oil pan. Then doing a free oil change to be certain now metal bits were flowing through the system.

[StradaRedlands]

Whoa.

[Mike K]

Crazy! I guess we now know what Vanos solenoids NOT to buy!

Also, a little quality check time with a dial caliper would be a good idea...

[NMSUman]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Crazy! I guess we now know what Vanos solenoids NOT to buy!

Also, a little quality check time with a dial caliper would be a good idea...

And you can see in these last two photos (where my finger is pointing) it appears where they really rubbed against the block.

[Bims328i]

Good lord. Sure enough, looks like some URO and Vaico solenoids. You can see the Vaico one in the pic I attached at the shoulder where it broke is the same. Seems like the genuine one has some other portion of sleeve there.

I remember when ordering the Vaico's. They said it was exact fit and meets or exceeds OEM specifications when we can see it is obviously not the correct part. In your case, the OD at the end being too big.

I hadn't noticed until looking back at the pictures after fixing it with genuine solenoids. I can't help but think the aftermarket ones would be ok except they have the wrong solenoids for specific cars in their system or something.

In my case the damn ports aren't even the same.

Pretty sure I have both the vaicos and old ones somewhere. Might need to dig them out and check some measurements. I think I got away because the OD of the end is slightly smaller.

First time I slapped them in the car seemed ok. Went to bed and after starting it up to head out for work, the thing was shaking like crazy for a second then just died.

Glad you got it sorted out! That is honestly wild.

[M-technik-3]

I'd say send a letter to brand where you bought but they would say it was not professionally installed and they are not at fault or some other lame excuse. Glad to see it was resolved and hopefully you still have two nickels to rub together in the bank.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Man I'm throwing the occasional vanos code at W.O.T. and assume it's going to be cam ledge seals but I figured I'd toss a vanos solenoid at it first. Guess I'll look for a used one rather than a non OEM.

[lordnikon]

Originally Posted by NZE90

They could quite possibly be the problem then. When it comes to Vanos solenoids, the BMW ones are the way to go. Have you tried cleaning and reinstalling the original ones? And cleaning the filters/check valves on the RH side of the cylinder head?

Do you think the Pierburg ones would be the same quality as genuine BMW?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...b1OeSJi%2BLb8F

[NZE90]

I think Pierburg is the supplier to BMW so yes they should be good.