[Mavus]

Originally Posted by Rafichicago

It’s ok. I don’t even want to start on n54/55 issues. One of the. Pat unreliable engine in BMW history but praised for tunability by many. I personally know about many that spun bearing before 100k miles. Let alone fuel delivery issues. The repairs are expensive. 12 revisions of injectors alone kept me from getting anything with that drivetrain.

the first gen n54 was rushed to market but bmw supported it with additional wrnty and updated parts as you know.

Our ‘17 x35 has been the most reliable car since new and now at 92k mi by far and much better than 3 acuras, infiniti, subaru etc. 2008 acura TL type S engine seized at 54k mi with preventive maint and I had to sue to recover cost for engine replacement. 2003 acura tls xmsn dead at 90K mi but was covered due to class action settlement. Subaru Outback 3.6 electrical gremlins non stop and CVT is junk (was business vehicle). Their feedback was just disconnect and reconnect main battery. The list goes on … but e9x is one of the best dd even today with a few mods.

[tturedraider]

Originally Posted by jackson2005

updated car links:
135i: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/use...5031920427.htm

m135i: https://www.facebook.com/share/1ARkhSg5fN/

Hot hatch without question!!!

[LuisBoston]

Originally Posted by BMWbiker

Honestly? Neither.

A nineteen year old with minimal income should avoid buying a car if possible. Use mass transit. Put the money in the bank.

If you live somewhere without mass transit, then buy a used Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, or whatever the equivalents are in NZ. Put as much money as possible in the bank.

Cars are depreciating assets and money pits. I assume that one of those cars will be expensive to insure. It will be expensive to maintain and repair.

You want to minimize your costs and maximize your savings. The more you save and invest now, the less you need to save when you’re older, and the more fun you can have when you can afford it.

If you insist on making a purchase between those two cars, buy the stock one. Don’t buy someone else’s mods and possible abuse of the car.

A 135i isn’t really depreciating anymore, unless driven by a 19yo.

[BMWbiker]

Originally Posted by LuisBoston

A 135i isn’t really depreciating anymore, unless driven by a 19yo.

[Rafichicago]

Originally Posted by Mavus

the first gen n54 was rushed to market but bmw supported it with additional wrnty and updated parts as you know.

Our ‘17 x35 has been the most reliable car since new and now at 92k mi by far and much better than 3 acuras, infiniti, subaru etc. 2008 acura TL type S engine seized at 54k mi with preventive maint and I had to sue to recover cost for engine replacement. 2003 acura tls xmsn dead at 90K mi but was covered due to class action settlement. Subaru Outback 3.6 electrical gremlins non stop and CVT is junk (was business vehicle). Their feedback was just disconnect and reconnect main battery. The list goes on … but e9x is one of the best dd even today with a few mods.

I’ve had 3 different E60 with 4.4 and 4.8 in fact I still have one and it didn’t bankrupt me contrary to info that you’d find online with valley pan coolant leak valve seals etc. But it doesn’t prove anything. I have few friends with b58 engine that has oil consumption issues. I used to have 2016 340i that was a lease and it hasn’t been in service once for anything other than routine maintenance. But that will not change my mind about n54 and n55 having expensive issues. I’ve seen too many but that doesn’t mean that there are owners happy with theirs.

[ShocknAwe]

Hi, long term E82 owner.

Do not buy a turbocharged BMW if you're 19 with limited income. Trust me.

All cars have problems. I love the E82 chassis. Buy a 128i if you must have a BMW. Buy it stock. Buy only a car with detailed maintenance records.

[BMWbiker]

Originally Posted by jackson2005

I’m a little confused guys as from what I’ve researched the N55 is a decently reliable engine so why do so many people want to steer clear of them unless they have a larger budget, my 118i with a b38 is considered to also be a “decently reliable engine” and since owning it have not had a single issue. Also I understand how stupid that reply I added about daddys track car and what not was lol

Wait—you already have your own car?

Does it run? Is it reasonably reliable?

If so, keep it. Don’t upgrade. Save your money. Invest it wisely.

[tturedraider]

Originally Posted by jackson2005

I’m a little confused guys as from what I’ve researched the N55 is a decently reliable engine so why do so many people want to steer clear of them unless they have a larger budget, my 118i with a b38 is considered to also be a “decently reliable engine” and since owning it have not had a single issue. Also I understand how stupid that reply I added about daddys track car and what not was lol

Because you are 19. They want you to make a financially wise decision. I’m not against that, but I rarely make financially wise decisions when it comes to cars and I’m very unlikely to tell someone to stick with their four banger rather than get an inline six.

[BMWbiker]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Because you are 19. They want you to make a financially wise decision. I’m not against that, but I rarely make financially wise decisions when it comes to cars and I’m very unlikely to tell someone to stick with their four banger rather than get an inline six.

There is the financial aspect, which is important.

There is also the safety aspect, which is even more important.

The crash and death statistics for young drivers are sobering.

Forget regular cars—an M135i is faster and more powerful than almost any exotic available when I was his age. That BMW is limited to 155 MPH. One of the two cars I learned to drive in had 52 HP. I’m not sure that even a then-new 911 from when I was that age could do 155 MPH. Probably only a Ferrari or Lamborghini could do so.

Add in the limited budget for the car, and thus possibly for maintenance, insurance, etc., there is a recipe for potential disaster.

The experience on the track in his father’s 911 partially ameliorates this. If the M135i were to be a track-only car along with his father, that would be a bit different.

He is of legal age, so I’m being a bit less emphatic about safety than I would be if he were underage. But the financials are important, especially since he already has a BMW.

[jackson2005]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Because you are 19. They want you to make a financially wise decision. I’m not against that, but I rarely make financially wise decisions when it comes to cars and I’m very unlikely to tell someone to stick with their four banger rather than get an inline six.

Haha this is exactly how my mind is thinking too, even though I KNOW everyone knows what they are talking about as previous/current owners but I think we think very similarly man, the way I've looked at it is: "Oh well I want something fun while I'm still in university and working part-time because by the time I go into the work force full-time (Studying a finance degree and have been offered a potential position at a short-term money loan firm) I think it will be a lot more appropriate to have, I guess a more "clean" and "business man" looking car than a little rocket LOL. I mean this entirely proves to me I don't really need a x35i but it's just the desire at a young age you know?

[ShocknAwe]

There is no such thing as a "business man" car.

You're welcome to buy a boring car when you're older I suppose. Or keep enjoying yourself.

Drive more cars. It will help prevent buying a car you regret or missing out on a car you would have loved.

[pbonsalb]

Can the OP DIY? That significantly reduces maintenance and repair costs, depending on how much you can do. I have maintained and repaired a 2008 E61 535xi with N54 N54 car for over 10 years, including turbos, rod bearings, etc. I think the N54 is a great engine, but would buy a B58 instead if that was an option. E90 M3 is a fun naturally aspirated car — had one of those for 10 years and DIY’d everything including rod bearings.

Sure, a 128i with naturally aspirated N52 is a sensible choice, but what 19 year old is sensible? If he gets in trouble with the 135i, his father with the 911 track car can probably help. I’d rather have the 135i than the 128i. What does insurance cost for a 19 year old to drive a 135i?

[jackson2005]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Can the OP DIY? That significantly reduces maintenance and repair costs, depending on how much you can do. I have maintained and repaired a 2008 E61 535xi with N54 N54 car for over 10 years, including turbos, rod bearings, etc. I think the N54 is a great engine, but would buy a B58 instead if that was an option. E90 M3 is a fun naturally aspirated car — had one of those for 10 years and DIY’d everything including rod bearings.

Sure, a 128i with naturally aspirated N52 is a sensible choice, but what 19 year old is sensible? If he gets in trouble with the 135i, his father with the 911 track car can probably help. I’d rather have the 135i than the 128i. What does insurance cost for a 19 year old to drive a 135i?

insurance is about 20-25USD a week

[jackson2005]

What are your guys thoughts on the 320i? (see link below)

https://www.facebook.com/share/1B4Vhkk96q/

[Bc2005]

I used to owned a 2015 328i, which I believe had a slightly higher HP version of the engine in the 320 you listed. One major issue with these engines (up to mid 2015) was deterioration of the timing chain guides.

The guides deteriorate, break and allow too much slack in the timing chain. First symptom was noise, and the final result was sometimes a timing chain failure or having it jump the sprocket.

The parts needed for the fix are relatively inexpensive, but the entire camshaft and associated accessories have to be removed, and you need a special tool set to get it reinstalled with the chain in proper timing. Out of warranty repair bill used to be about $3500USD, or you could buy a DIY repair kit and tools from FCP Euro for about $1200-1500USD. It was considered a possible DIY job, but much more complicated than most DIY.

[jackson2005]

Originally Posted by Bc2005

I used to owned a 2015 328i, which I believe had a slightly higher HP version of the engine in the 320 you listed. One major issue with these engines (up to mid 2015) was deterioration of the timing chain guides.

The guides deteriorate, break and allow too much slack in the timing chain. First symptom was noise, and the final result was sometimes a timing chain failure or having it jump the sprocket.

The parts needed for the fix are relatively inexpensive, but the entire camshaft and associated accessories have to be removed, and you need a special tool set to get it reinstalled with the chain in proper timing. Out of warranty repair bill used to be about $3500USD, or you could buy a DIY repair kit and tools from FCP Euro for about $1200-1500USD. It was considered a possible DIY job, but much more complicated than most DIY.

I’ve just read about this, and now I am completely stumped on what to do. Everything I’ve read online tells me the N55 is quite possibly “the best” BMW engine, performance and reliability wise, I know for a fact that I’m looking for something that isn’t as slow as my 2016 118i and I sort of feel as though if all the BMWs I’ve been looking at are around the same price range (9-10.5k USD) and each time I find something I like I go to research it and its people just saying “might as well get a n55” “n55 is more reliable” “n55 is the best engine hands down” why does it seem as though everyone on this post at least has advised me to stay away from them? I know everyone here has given very good reasons but yeah I’m just confused at this point.

I’d like to add I’m very eager for my car to sound amazing and a burble tune is something I’ll definitely be doing if its not already been done to the car.

[tracer bullet]

The N55 isn't inherently bad, it's just that it's a BMW... even the very best BMW will still have some problems, because it's a BMW.

If you want a BMW, it's fine. Some are more reliable than others. But none of them are Hondas or Toyotas, for reliability. Does that make sense?

If you find something you like, and it's in great shape and has been taken care of, you'll be OK. It's the best you can start with. But do have some budget set aside just in case. And be ready to do some hands-on maintenance as well. You don't have to be able to pull out an engine, but I'd say you will want at least the ability to do things like change spark plugs or differential oil.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by jackson2005

I’m looking for something that isn’t as slow as my 2016 118i.

I’d like to add I’m very eager for my car to sound amazing and a burble tune is something I’ll definitely be doing if its not already been done to the car.

128i with N52 will spank your four cylinder 118i. It is the sensible choice. No turbo to add complexity and heat in the engine bay. Get one with a 6 speed manual.

However, naturally aspirated motors like the N52 typically don’t burble as well as turbo ones. Beware blowing up excess fuel in the exhaust can damage expensive cats. But you can still modify the exhaust for more sound.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by jackson2005

updated car links:
135i: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/use...5031920427.htm

m135i: https://www.facebook.com/share/1ARkhSg5fN/

Neither of these have a clutch, so why bother?

Skip both, and find a N52 128i or 328i with a manual transmission.
That will end up being the best car you'll ever own.

[tturedraider]

Originally Posted by jackson2005

What are your guys thoughts on the 320i? (see link below)

https://www.facebook.com/share/1B4Vhkk96q/

That is a very nicely equipped and very cool looking car!! And that is all!! It isn’t going to satisfy your need for speed or power in any way shape or form. You might as well keep what you have!!!

Get the 135i hot hatch!!!

[zx10guy]

I'll provide my two cents on this. I have a 2013 135i bought new with a bit over 102,000 miles. I have to say overall the car has been pretty reliable. For a while, it was my daily driver and as such I drove year round to include through winter weather (snow, ice, etc). It's never left me stranded. Engine wise, the only true failures were the infamous oil filter housing gasket sprung a leak and the plastic charge pipe finally blew on me about a year or so ago. The OFHG was done by the dealer because I had an in on getting it repaired cheaply. The charge pipe I replaced myself. Two failures that didn't affect driveability were the oils sensor that was incorrectly reporting low oil level and the evap canister system. I ended up having to replace the DMTL pump twice. The initial failure was due to me being lazy about having to fuel up often because of the small tank the car has and the amount of driving I do. So I was overfilling the tank. I should have replaced the charcoal canister when I did the first DMTL repair as the replacement failed because it was full of gas; undoubtedly from drawing it from the charcoal canister that I didn't know was saturated with gas. The second time around I replaced both and haven't had a problem since. I also stopped overfilling the tank after the first pump failure.

Other things I had done outside of routine oil changes were: serpentine belt with the idler and tensioner, all 6 ignition coils and a set of plugs, electric water pump as a preventative, coolant service, brake fluid flush, front brake pads and rotors, DCT fluid drain/refill with the side filter replaced, rear differential fluid change, and a battery. Tires are a given.

I've done some mods which are considered mild by many. I initially did the PPK Stage 2 but did a Dinan S2 tune after. Add a oil catch can and a 1M strut tower brace.

The one thing I would be very careful about with the 135i with a DCT is the high possibility of driveability issues. I was experience major lurching and throttle lag at low speeds with the A/C running. I did all the suggested fixes which was a firmware update called out by an SIB and doing even trying the Dinan S2 tune. None of them fixed the problem. The dealer finally figured out the fix which is to reset all the adaptations. This is the true fix for the problem. There's a thread I started that's a sticky discussing this problem. I've since had to do another adaptation reset to restore proper driveability to my car. Seems I have to expect doing the adaptation reset about every 4 to 5 years. We'll see.

I do drive my car spiritedly at times. But I don't beat the piss out of it. I have to say my car has been reliable compared to other cars I've owned.

ETA: Something else to consider. Instead of dropping money into a car with more raw performance over the one you have, take the money and get more track time and training. I've done this with motorcycling. I do some mods to my motorcycles but none of them are related to adding more power. I've spent money yearly on getting more professional training to improve my skills which have translated into me being faster overall without the crutch of using horsepower to mask my skill deficiencies. The skills I've picked up have even translated into how well I drive on 4 wheels at the limit.

[jackson2005]

Might’ve cracked a great deal let me know what you guys think:

https://www.facebook.com/share/1F1WN6TR9c/

its got a custom valved exhaust and sounds pretty good too, 72k miles and hes bumped price down from 11.3k USD to 9k USD