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      07-24-2006, 09:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javajaws
OK, so let me get this straight...You did all this just to get your clown nose to blink when your car is locked?

So now when people ask me what that thing is for I can now tell them that its not part of an alarm system that I don't have but instead its just a blinking light that comes on when my car is locked.
What you tell other people is really up to you. I bet $20 you won't know which car has an alarm and which does not by looking at them parked site-by-site. But I did it not because I could not afford to buy factory alarm but because I wanted to and I can.

PS When I have time I am planning to add another picture/diagram to show all the wires. Hopefully it will answer many questions here.

Last edited by msinfo_us; 07-24-2006 at 11:08 PM..
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      07-24-2006, 10:57 PM   #24
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I've added another diagram to show all the wires/connections (please see the begining of this post). I hope it helps to answer your questions. GL
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      07-25-2006, 12:39 AM   #25
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thank you so much, this will be a great weekenday project

my sincere gratitude 'you da man'
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      07-25-2006, 09:50 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by canucklion
thank you so much, this will be a great weekenday project

my sincere gratitude 'you da man'
You are welcome. Let me know if you have questions. I'll do my best to answer them.
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      07-25-2006, 10:33 AM   #27
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what is your method for connecting wires? did you use some sort of soldering gun or heat shrink wrap?
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      07-25-2006, 11:48 AM   #28
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I used soldering. Couple things you should keep in mind: you do not want to overheat the microchip and be careful with static electricity.
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      07-25-2006, 01:22 PM   #29
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So when you took the circuit board out, you added the LED on the board so you can test it while it was removed from the car so you did not have to go back and forth? Then when you are happy with the test result, you but the LED back into the clown nose? Just want to have this clarified.

I did not take my rear view mirror apart so I do not know how the original circuit board look like. I cannot tell from looking at your photo which wires you added to the board.

Also, how can you be so sure that your DIY did not create any kind of current leak? I guess this is where the MS in EEE helps.

It is great but it will be a huge task for me to do.
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      07-25-2006, 02:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
So when you took the circuit board out, you added the LED on the board so you can test it while it was removed from the car so you did not have to go back and forth? Then when you are happy with the test result, you but the LED back into the clown nose? Just want to have this clarified..
I used a circuit board that I bought from Radioshack. Otherwise you are correct.

PS It is not very clear from the above but I did not remove LED from clown nose I used a spare LED.

Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
I did not take my rear view mirror apart so I do not know how the original circuit board look like. I cannot tell from looking at your photo which wires you added to the board.

Also, how can you be so sure that your DIY did not create any kind of current leak? I guess this is where the MS in EEE helps.

It is great but it will be a huge task for me to do.
The current at pin 1 is already restricted and fused, so you don't have to worry about spikes. Also, the diod D1 is there for protection of microchip and in case you switch wires by excident.
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      07-25-2006, 02:47 PM   #31
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Out of curiosity why not use a blinking LED ($2) from Radio Shack and a simple relay? The relay would be normally closed, and the ignition would open it so it was off when your ignition was on. Your other circuit could be the blinking LED and two AA batteries. Seems much simpler IMO.

Did the blinking LED blink too fast for your tastes?? Just curious why you took it so far..
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      07-25-2006, 03:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh49
Out of curiosity why not use a blinking LED ($2) from Radio Shack and a simple relay? The relay would be normally closed, and the ignition would open it so it was off when your ignition was on. Your other circuit could be the blinking LED and two AA batteries. Seems much simpler IMO.

Did the blinking LED blink too fast for your tastes?? Just curious why you took it so far..
I am sure there are many more solutions. This solution was extreemly simple to me. The specs of 555 timer are very flexible and match perfectly with what I had to work with (freq, voltage, current). I did not want to depend on batteries, EM relays and etc. I wanted minimum current requirements and fexible frequency range -- this microchip just fits the bill.
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      07-25-2006, 03:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msinfo_us
I am sure there are many more solutions. This solution was extreemly simple to me. The specs of 555 timer are very flexible and match perfectly with what I had to work with (freq, voltage, current). I did not want to depend on batteries, EM relays and etc. I wanted minimum current requirements and fexible frequency range -- this microchip just fits the bill.
Sounds great.. Good work then...

What period do you have the circuit setup to?
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      07-25-2006, 03:54 PM   #34
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I may have to do this just for the hell of it. Great idea. Simple and yet effective. I tip my hat to you good sir.
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Last edited by rchanou; 07-25-2006 at 04:37 PM..
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      07-25-2006, 04:19 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchanou
I may have to do this just for the hell of it. Great idea. Simple and yet effective. I tip my to you good sir.
Thank you! I think you are the first one here who actually agree with me that this is a VERY simple solution.
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      07-25-2006, 05:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
I wish I could understand what you are talking about. What chip are you talking about in the pics (is it pics 1, 2, 3). I dont see any eight legged chips Not trying to make fun of you just trying to add a little humor since I totally lost on this. You have no clue but when I look at your pics, I see spaghetti
Thanks for the encouragement post...but I am not touching this with a 10feet poll.
In the first picture, the eight legged chip (TLC555) is the black rectangular item to the left of the tall blue cylindrical item (capacitor). The three white items on the left that look like Rolaids are the potentiometers (pots) which act as variable resistors.

Hope this helps.
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      07-25-2006, 05:30 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoYank
In the first picture, the eight legged chip (TLC555) is the black rectangular item to the left of the tall blue cylindrical item (capacitor). The three white items on the left that look like Rolaids are the potentiometers (pots) which act as variable resistors.

Hope this helps.

There's also a diode to the left of the top pot.
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      07-25-2006, 07:24 PM   #38
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Thank you for your help guys. Together we might have a chance at answering all questions -- alone I was not sure I am 100% up to the task. Thanks. :rocks:
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      07-25-2006, 10:21 PM   #39
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This DIY needs a DIY
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      07-26-2006, 01:57 PM   #40
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Quote:
Quote:
OriginalLy Posted by txusa03
I wish I could understand what you are talking about. What chip are you talking about in the pics (is it pics 1, 2, 3). I dont see any eight legged chips Not trying to make fun of you just trying to add a little humor since I totally lost on this. You have no clue but when I look at your pics, I see spaghetti
Thanks for the encouragement post...but I am not touching this with a 10feet poll.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoYank
In the first picture, the eight legged chip (TLC555) is the black rectangular item to the left of the tall blue cylindrical item (capacitor). The three white items on the left that look like Rolaids are the potentiometers (pots) which act as variable resistors.

Hope this helps.
SoYank, have you done this as well?

I think this is quite easy for those who done a few electrical work before. But for me, these terms and items are foreign to me. Plus, not too thrill of having to use a soldering gun for this DIY. But thanks for helping me understand some of this stuff.
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      07-27-2006, 01:40 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
SoYank, have you done this as well?

I think this is quite easy for those who done a few electrical work before. But for me, these terms and items are foreign to me. Plus, not too thrill of having to use a soldering gun for this DIY. But thanks for helping me understand some of this stuff.
No, I have not done this DIY. However, I have built radios and other electronic devices in the past as a hobby.

I wouldn't recommend a soldering gun but instead a solder iron. It's lighter and more maneuverable than a bulky gun.
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      07-28-2006, 11:54 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoYank
No, I have not done this DIY. However, I have built radios and other electronic devices in the past as a hobby.

I wouldn't recommend a soldering gun but instead a solder iron. It's lighter and more maneuverable than a bulky gun.
I would not know the difference...I probably melt the damn board with either one. probably cause self inflicted pain as well with them. This is going over board, but could I request a video DIY on this?
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      07-28-2006, 11:57 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
I would not know the difference...I probably melt the damn board with either one. probably cause self inflicted pain as well with them. This is going over board, but could I request a video DIY on this?
ha. a DIY video of soldering. it's not very hard to solder. I'm sure you can handle it.
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      08-03-2006, 01:39 AM   #44
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Has anyone made one yet and did the DIY?
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