[USCRooЯ]

haha wow, ill buy the DCIs again if i have too.

Im all about power, no sales pitch.

I just figured it made sense since it heat soaks so hard. and i assumed the riss intake will give you consistent power as its not in the hottest part of the engine.

the downpipes IMO are great, but im all about power. if riss didnt make the best ones i wouldnt get it.

ill dyno the intakes though, 100 miles apart.really curious to see what i get.

[Diggy Diggy]

Originally Posted by USCRooЯ

the downpipes IMO are great, but im all about power. if riss didnt make the best ones i wouldnt get it.

You do know that AR makes makes 3" that taper the farthest back, right? Seems like you're very biased, I have no downpipes, however if I go with any, it will be the catted CP-E.

Best bang for your buck is VK full 2.5" for $300...

[USCRooЯ]

Originally Posted by Spoolin

You do know that AR makes makes 3" that taper the farthest back, right? Seems like you're very biased, I have no downpipes, however if I go with any, it will be the catted CP-E.

Best bang for your buck is VK full 2.5" for $300...

if someone can show me the AR pipes make more power than RR, ill buy those too.

[Zeph]

I won't buy them just because they call them 3" DP's. Not big on liars. More importantly, I don't see how going from 2.5 - 3 - 2.5 can increase flow or decrease back-pressure. Actually to me it only seems worse to expand and compress the air again. They should just be 2.5" all the way for the best possible flow.

If this were N/A car then the 3" center pocket can be useful for exhaust scavenging, but this is a turbo application which makes that not applicable.

[USCRooЯ]

Originally Posted by Zeph

I won't buy them just because they call them 3" DP's. Not big on liars. More importantly, I don't see how going from 2.5 - 3 - 2.5 can increase flow or decrease back-pressure. Actually to me it only seems worse to expand and compress the air again. They should just be 2.5" all the way for the best possible flow.

If this were N/A car then the 3" center pocket can be useful for exhaust scavenging, but this is a turbo application which makes that not applicable.

huh?

it goes from 3inch to 2.75 to 2.5 instead of other DPs that go from 3 directly to 2.5.

thats the difference in design, i assume the longer transition and gradual decrease instead of an abrupt one is the difference.

[TreDirtyFive]

Check out this dyno on the Riss Racing Intake...before and after removal.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260272

[Zeph]

Originally Posted by USCRooЯ

huh?

it goes from 3inch to 2.75 to 2.5 instead of other DPs that go from 3 directly to 2.5.

thats the difference in design, i assume the longer transition and gradual decrease instead of an abrupt one is the difference.

which ones are you talking about?

[USCRooЯ]

Originally Posted by TreDirtyFive

Check out this dyno on the Riss Racing Intake...before and after removal.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260272

yeah, i saw that.

pretty surprised. i will dyno them myself though and decide on my own which is more efficient.

Originally Posted by Zeph

which ones are you talking about?

the Riss racing DPs the the 3 - 2.75 - 2.5
the AR ones go from 3 - 2.5

[Zeph]

Originally Posted by USCRooЯ

the Riss racing DPs the the 3 - 2.75 - 2.5
the AR ones go from 3 - 2.5

ya I was talking about AR... 3" pipes with 2.5 inch flange openings is WAY too abrupt IMHO. Not saying they don't "work" but that is not ideal for air flow smoothness. RR seems like a pretty good design, but I still don't see why they don't just stay 2.5" the whole way. The entire rest of the system is 2.5"

[USCRooЯ]

Originally Posted by Zeph

ya I was talking about AR... 3" pipes with 2.5 inch flange openings is WAY too abrupt IMHO. Not saying they don't "work" but that is not ideal for air flow smoothness. RR seems like a pretty good design, but I still don't see why they don't just stay 2.5" the whole way. The entire rest of the system is 2.5"

wider opening = more flow = more power maybe?

seems we are on the same side..

[alpinedevil335]

Originally Posted by Spoolin

You do know that AR makes makes 3" that taper the farthest back, right? Seems like you're very biased, I have no downpipes, however if I go with any, it will be the catted CP-E.

Best bang for your buck is VK full 2.5" for $300...

THE fastest 135 uses RR catless DPs. I wonder why he dosent use these so called " best bang for your buck dp's"? Maybe it's because he keeps getting beter performance both on the track and dyno with the RR products.
And as for the people saying that UScRooR is a sales pitch for RR.. I also would have written a similar review about the RR products. The guys @ RR are awesome and they know their shit! I use a few of their products and I am more than happy with them.

[USCRooЯ]

Originally Posted by alpinedevil335

THE fastest 135 uses RR catless DPs. I wonder why he dosent use these so called " best bang for your buck dp's"? Maybe it's because he keeps getting beter performance both on the track and dyno with the RR products.
And as for the people saying that UScRooR is a sales pitch for RR.. I also would have written a similar review about the RR products. The guys @ RR are awesome and they know their shit! I use a few of their products and I am more than happy with them.

thanks dude , cant wait for the run

[sickem]

Originally Posted by USCRooЯ

thanks dude , cant wait for the run

your sig is dumb. a modification is a change. so why are changes not mods?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Old thread bump FTL

[sickem]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

Old thread bump FTL

touche

[demontwinz]

My am getting a used Riss racing C-less DP from a friend. It is hard to find information online. The company no longer exist?

Are they ok for 335i n54?

[sickem]

Originally Posted by demontwinz

My am getting a used Riss racing C-less DP from a friend. It is hard to find information online. The company no longer exist?

Are they ok for 335i n54?

of course, that is what they are for.