[xroads]

Thanks deadmn1337, I ended up replacing the LCA rubber mount on both sides.
I also replaced items 1 to 7 in diagram on both sides.

[cdgatti]

If you are replacing the lower shock mount, the one in the aluminum control arm,the 2 torx bolts are size e-12 external torx.

[hoopvillian]

I just replaced the struts on my e90. I don't remember the sizes of the sockets I used, but most of the sized described in this DIY and the front strut DIY are wrong. OEM struts from a 2007, the struts dated 3/1/2007 if I remember correctly. Sorry I didn't write down the sizes but I was powering through the install, it was hot in the garage.

To the guy that suggested the pass-thru socket set, THANK YOU. Such a time saver.

[robbiec]

I just did this job on my 2006 325i sport package last weekend. This job is very easy, particularly compared to the water pump and thermostat I did last month! Anyway, I used Bilstein B4 p/n 19-135052. These are a perfect fit and a nice stock replacement. The hardest part of the job is actually removing and installing the interior trunk carpet panels. Buy an $8 trim panel fastener removal tool from Amazon! It is not difficult to compress the shocks by hand. For reference, I'm 5'7" 160 and sit in front of a computer all day. I replaced the upper and lower mounts, but this probably was not necessary if you are on a budget. The upper mounts especially looked and felt like new. BMW parts are really well made. All my suspension components are solid and like new after 9 years and 92k and 7 Boston winters. Except the shocks.

[bmwgvsc]

Originally Posted by robbiec

I just did this job on my 2006 325i sport package last weekend. This job is very easy, particularly compared to the water pump and thermostat I did last month! Anyway, I used Bilstein B4 p/n 19-135052. These are a perfect fit and a nice stock replacement. The hardest part of the job is actually removing and installing the interior trunk carpet panels. Buy an $8 trim panel fastener removal tool from Amazon! It is not difficult to compress the shocks by hand. For reference, I'm 5'7" 160 and sit in front of a computer all day. I replaced the upper and lower mounts, but this probably was not necessary if you are on a budget. The upper mounts especially looked and felt like new. BMW parts are really well made. All my suspension components are solid and like new after 9 years and 92k and 7 Boston winters. Except the shocks.

Thanks for the heads up.. I'm planning on doing mine tonight with the same shocks.. Looking forward to a better ride!!

[tman]

Thanks for this DIY. I did this last weekend, with a bad back as well. Took me 2 hrs as I had to watch how much I was bending over.

The process is relatively straight forward. I think I had more of a hard time with the stupid lining in the trunk than the shocks themselves. LOL. I replaced with B4's. Not having a 16mm open end wrench I used a 5/8 which instead which worked fine.

The new B4's had a 15mm nut on the bottom end as opposed to 17mm, weird but it worked out fine.

Thanks to the OP for posting the DIY as it was invaluable. Next up, is the front struts!

[WallyF]

Am I missing something about tightening up the upper nut ?

My new Bilstein B4 OE shocks have the same 6mm top that that my OEM shocks have. I am assuming that if I hold this 6mm top with a wrench, I can use an open end wrench to tighten the 16mm nut.

Wallyf

[WallyF]

I recently replaced my two rear shocks on my 2006 325xi and answered my previous post. I just held the 6mm shock top and tighten the nut tight. I did not worry about the 27 ft lbs torque spec.

One thing is that I used a 6 inch pry bar (see photo) that I purchase at Home Depot to remove the seven (7) expanding black plastic expanding rivets. Take your time so as not to break the plastic expanding rivet. I used a screw driver along with the pry bar on a couple of the rivets. I believe the part number for the black plastic rivet is 07-14-6-971-349.

I was not able to remove the left and right side covers as described in the DIY as the rear luggage compartment trim piece also needs to be removed first. See photos.

To removed this trim piece there are four (4) gray expanding rivets (51-47-8-184-135) and two sheet metal screws under cover caps. See photos. The rivets were difficult to remove as the plastic rivets were brittle. I suggest taking small bites. On some to the rivets I had to use long nose pliers once I got it out a little distance.

Then, remove the floor panel, the battery cover panel and lift the left and right panels out.

I had help compressing the original shocks to remove them as well as installing the new shocks. Made the process much easier.

I replaced both shocks with Bilstein B4 OE 19-135021 shocks using new Rein AVZ0293P bump stops . The original left shock was leaking after 10 1/2 years so I replaced the lower shock mount with a Lemfoerder 35398 01 mount.

Hope this helps.

Wallyf

[hdmark]

to everyone who contributed to this thread.... THANK YOU!!!!
i already had trim tools from replacing my speakers, but i did not have a through socket set and an e-torq set. went to harbor freight and grabbed both.

took me a bit over an hour per side (including a good 30 minutes getting the stupid trim in the trunk again.
thank you everyone!!!

[TCM]

hey guys, so i've tried to tighten up the top nut (from the pic at point 4 but on the right side) and i've dropped a small wrench that i've used to hold the strut and it went down in the wheel cavity ... does anyone know if i can retrieve it by removing the bumper fender liner?

[135]

Originally Posted by TCM

hey guys, so i've tried to tighten up the top nut (from the pic at point 4 but on the right side) and i've dropped a small wrench that i've used to hold the strut and it went down in the wheel cavity ... does anyone know if i can retrieve it by removing the bumper fender liner?

No you can't. The bodywork is fully sealed under the fender liner.
Have you tried using a magnetic flexible pick up tool?

[TCM]

Originally Posted by 135

No you can't. The bodywork is fully sealed under the fender liner.
Have you tried using a magnetic flexible pick up tool?

Thx for the reply, i'll try to find an appropriate tool ... chances are that the wrench won't be recovered ... not a big deal, it doesn't produce any noise, it's just that i know that it's stuck there

[Glim]

Reviving an old DIY.

BMW dealer wanted $1,065 CDN including tax to replace rear struts so I DIY tonight on my 06 330i sport suspension. After 12 years of use the shocks were so bad I could barely compress one of them and both did not rebound at all. I probably should have replaced them twice by now. I will do the front suspension next after seeing how bad the rears were.

Actual DIY Cost $340 CDN including tax&duty for parts only, I had to buy a $25 torx set but will use that in future DIY projects.

Excellent Video on replacement:

They quote a 16mm open wrench to hold lower shocks while turning the 17mm nut, these shocks actually required a 15mm open ended wrench.

One 17mm deep socket like this one is needed for lower shock nut as a standard depth socket would not have the reach to tighten the nut all the way: http://a.co/fjJ8Xxk

Or a 17mm Drop End box wrench like this: http://a.co/dUzwVRm

Torx T-40 to remove tie-down trim pieces in trunk. Like in the video just remove the first two closest push pins and then push away the liner to reach the rubber shock covers.

E-12 torx to replace lower bushings. The Bushings only go in one way, look at the bushings from underneath as you remove them as one end is wider than the other. After 12 years they were showing some wear but I bet you anything the dealer would not have replaced them.

The shock mount sealing grommet listed as part 5 in xroads post above was mounted with the cup side facing up from the factory so that is how I replaced it in the new kit.

The shock mount listed as part 7 in xroads post above were still in great shape after 12 years but I replaced them anyways.

Parts from FCP Euro in USD:

Item
BMW Shock Absorber - Sachs 311-410 Qty. 2 Total $121.02
BMW Shock Mounting Kit - E9XRSMKIT1 Qty. 1 Total $76.99



Original post in this thread showed what not to do. Do not jack the car up and then work on the car without jack stands and then put your head or arms under the disc brake to loosen the 17mm nut.


Please do:

Make two of your own Jack Pads like Pittsburger's post halfway down this thread for $1 each: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=616494

Back on to low profile ramps or 2x6's. Place wheel chocks on the front and back of the front wheels. Jack up from middle of car using a hockey puck on the jack's pad on the middle of the diff. Use Pittsburger's cut hockey puck jack pads to fit into the lift points on the rear jacking locations and place jack stands under the lift points. Slowly lower the car on to the hockey puck jack stands. Keep the jack in place on the diff and remove the extruding handle so you don't kick it or trip over it. Begin.

[Fl328iConvert]

Everything went smoothly for me with one addition to the thread that might help out.
On the convertible, you can't (that I could figure out), wrench on the top bolt and 6mm bolt due to the convertible equipment blocking access like you see in all the videos.

While there are gaps in the framework, as you slowly move the top up and down, they never open a path (by evil design?). What I ended up doing was needlenose vicegrip holding the 6mm socket from above with a one foot extension on the socket. Then using the box wrench to make a 1/80000000 of a turn, a billion times to get her torqued up... beer helped. haha. I'm sure there is a magic tool out there somewhere that would accomplish it in seconds.


I do have a question I haven't found in my searches yet, the end result has left me with a 1/2 inch ride height difference between the left and right. Is there a suggested procedure to get them to equal out?


Thanks again to all who provided the DIYs...

[Nurega]

Thank you for posting this DIY. I'm about to start work on my newly-acquired 328iT, and I know this guide will be a massive help. My right-rear damper is completely shot.

[Rollo`]

Originally Posted by Fl328iConvert

Everything went smoothly for me with one addition to the thread that might help out.
On the convertible, you can't (that I could figure out), wrench on the top bolt and 6mm bolt due to the convertible equipment blocking access like you see in all the videos.

While there are gaps in the framework, as you slowly move the top up and down, they never open a path (by evil design?). What I ended up doing was needlenose vicegrip holding the 6mm socket from above with a one foot extension on the socket. Then using the box wrench to make a 1/80000000 of a turn, a billion times to get her torqued up... beer helped. haha. I'm sure there is a magic tool out there somewhere that would accomplish it in seconds.


I do have a question I haven't found in my searches yet, the end result has left me with a 1/2 inch ride height difference between the left and right. Is there a suggested procedure to get them to equal out?


Thanks again to all who provided the DIYs...

Dude I know you only have 9 posts and will likely never see this but I seriously lol'd at this post...hilarious.

[bmmrboy98]

Does anyone know if you can stick 335i shocks and struts on a 325xi? I.E, are all non sport/M e90 shocks/struts interchangable? I found a cheap set online and the shocks for my 325 are much more expensive.

Thanks!

[leif20]

Originally Posted by Glim

Reviving an old DIY.

E-12 torx to replace lower bushings. The Bushings only go in one way, look at the bushings from underneath as you remove them as one end is wider than the other. After 12 years they were showing some wear but I bet you anything the dealer would not have replaced them.

*Some wear* in BC...

A couple more tips:
Posts above suggested that rear lower mounts could be reused. On my 2006 with 228k km, my lower mounts were as good as gone. They were seized on the shock and required a hammer to break free, crumbling a significant portion of the mount away as rust.

If you live in an area that sees winter and salt on the roads, replace these! I don't feel confident in the integrity of these parts for any significant period of time, so I will order a set of lower mounts and replace them when I swap to summers. Does anyone know if the lower mounts can be replaced without undoing the top portion? My gut is yes, but would require some finagling of the lower mounts and shock.

*Edit: Yes the rear mounts can be changed out independent of the shocks. It helps to use the jack under the spring mount on lower control arm to raise/lower the hub assembly.

My bump stops seemed to be in OK shape and could have been reused.

I replaced the upper mounts but couldn't get the nut that goes on the rod to bite, so I had to use the old upper shock top portion (already crushed, lower profile).

I'm super glad I did this, it's great having damping once again. Now, the decision to do the fronts...

[Snakedog116]

So I just wanted to give a quick thanks for these instructions.

Also, I bought the Haynes manual and screwed myself over with the torque specs on these bolts so I thought I'd share in here to hopefully prevent anyone else from making the same mistake.

Haynes lists the upper mounting nut at 20ft-lbs (M10) and 27 ft-lbs (M12). My E90 was M10 so 20 ft-lbs. The lower mounting nut is 27ft-lbs. (That connects the strut to the mount)

What threw me off is that the lower mounting bolt (the mount to the frame) says M10 = 44 ft-lbs and M12=74ft-lbs. I used a E12 socket for these bolts and so stupidly thought M12 and E12 were the same thing... that's not the case. M10 is the size of the thread, not the head... My E90 uses M10 not M12s bolts with an E12 head...


So of course I tightened to 74 ft-lbs and stripped the bolt inside the mount... had to order new bolts (which are supposed to be replaced anyways when replacing the mount, so I guess not the end of the world), but I may also need a new mount if that got stripped, I'll know once the new bolts arrive.


Anyways, hopefully this post can save someone else the headache that I created for myself.

In case anyone is curious, the M10 (E12) bolts are long enough that you can put a second nut on the top and tighten it somewhat. I felt that was safe enough to drive for a few days while the new parts come in. Of course, do this 100% at your own risk. I'm not a mechanic and this is just what I did.

[Snakedog116]

I did my fronts first... they are much worse because the springs need to be compressed to get them out of the wheel well and compressing the springs is a pain in the butt... My "Princess Auto" spring compressor couldn't compress it enough to get out and I had to unbolt a few other components (control arms etc.) to get enough room to get the front strut out.

I'd suggest you don't attempt this unless you have a low profile spring compressor.

(A square head one, not the hook head would have made my life much easier)

Originally Posted by leif20

*Some wear* in BC...
Now, the decision to do the fronts...