[N54 Junkie]

I have gotten the same code. I saw it the first time today after installing a JB4, DCI and ER CP. Other than the misfires ive gotten from having dirty plugs, I hadn't seen this code before. I haven't installed anything that draws on the power supply. The only thing that I can think of is that I have an ipod that stays connected constantly, however, I have had it in the car for over a year with no problems. Anyone care to chime in on a more succinct cause?

[enrita]

searching for the code normally helps.... you have to see that probably lots of people got it and found a resolution especially here on e90post.

[gian335]

i was getting this code off and on for 2 years, then it never came back. I found no solution, im sure theres nothin to be worried about. My advice Just ignore it .

[kbsmth]

Diggin up an old thread here - this afternoon I got this same code and began my investigation with you, my support group.

The previous owner of my 07 335i hardwired a dashcam, which is supposed to have an auto shutoff, however, lately I have noticed it behaving eraddically. I’ve unplugged it for the moment, as well as my kinovo Bluetooth adapter and will be monitoring the outcome. Hopefully this is the solution, as it seems to be the most logical cause that I’ve come across since most others mention a bad battery or something related to that, and my battery was just replaced in August.

I’ll try to report back in a few days with any changes.

[kbsmth]

Originally Posted by kbsmth

Diggin up an old thread here - this afternoon I got this same code and began my investigation with you, my support group.

The previous owner of my 07 335i hardwired a dashcam, which is supposed to have an auto shutoff, however, lately I have noticed it behaving eraddically. IÂ’ve unplugged it for the moment, as well as my kinovo Bluetooth adapter and will be monitoring the outcome. Hopefully this is the solution, as it seems to be the most logical cause that IÂ’ve come across since most others mention a bad battery or something related to that, and my battery was just replaced in August.

IÂ’ll try to report back in a few days with any changes.

Turns out it was a precursor to my water pump & thermostat going out. Pretty sure the hardwired dashcam & bluetooth adapater were just coincidental.

[NZ-M340ixDrive]

This just popped up for me and no engine light nothing.
IIRC I had just scanned for channels in the tv option in my I-Drive
I cleared it and I’ll see if it appears again

[NZ-M340ixDrive]

Bump

From trial and error could it be leaving something plugged into your OBD port?

[DiskoSleaZe]

I'm hoping it's this. I just realized I left my OBD cable in too..

Originally Posted by Benji335i

Bump

From trial and error could it be leaving something plugged into your OBD port?

[Exzir]

If you have a k can OBDP cable plugged in at all times this will cause this error message

[grennx]

Has anyone seen 2DED after installing catless downpipes with an O2 sensor mod attached to the ECU?

[fazman]

Originally Posted by grennx

Has anyone seen 2DED after installing catless downpipes with an O2 sensor mod attached to the ECU?

I fit this description and I do get 2DED often (Tho in the younger years I never saw this code and was of this configuration as well).

Only thing I can think of is maybe my cigi lighter usb charger has a tiny blue led and that might trip it. I always leave my iphone cable plugged in even without any phone connected as the car is asleep. I have a usb device hooked up to the aux audio usb jack and that also gets charged when its powered.

[N54_nutter]

Hi guys, my n54 e92 is throwing the 2DED code when I get near red line and car goes into limp mode. I've only got a jb4 but no other bolt-ons yet. Also, there's nothing plugged into my car that could be draining the battery and I've just replaced spark plugs/ oil and cleaned solenoids.. anybody have any ideas why this is popping up?

[fumigator]

I left my Carly bluetooth adapter plugged into the OBD port overnight. pretty sure that's the culprit.

[fazman]

So my AGM battery was changed around Nov 2014 and 105k miles ago. The battery seems to hold about 12.3V over night when I check with the hidden menu in the Kombi.

I would get 2DED and would hear my head unit CD player eject on car start up often. Now that the season is changing my car is also getting 2EF4 codes. So now I am now monitoring my coolant temp in the hidden menu 7 on the Kombi.

Last night I decided to go module by module with inpa and clear out all the error history. Keeping the car on a battery tender over night seems to have helped this morning. But I need to keep doing this test for a week to see if it actually made a difference.

[Tiberius73]

I got this code recently, repeatedly in an '07 E93.

The cause seems to have been a combination of leaving the Carly BT Adapter plugged in (I have been leaving it plugged in most of the time for ~3 years) and my battery being 6 years old.

Recently I noticed, just very occasionally, the battery symbol lighting up when the car was left with the ignition on and the engine off even for ~30 seconds. It never used to unless it'd been sitting for much longer than 30 seconds.

So I think people get this code when either something draws a decent amount of current and you have a good battery or when there are small draws of current and your battery is ageing (or is low for some other reason).

If you get this code while the engine is running, especially at HIGH rpm, then change/fix your alternator/voltage-regulator IMMEDIATELY.

[SSW]

I got this code about 3 months ago after my battery went dead because I forgot to hook it up to the Battery Tender. Never got this code before.

The code & an "engine malfunction" warning has come up a couple times while driving but (even though the warning says the car is driving with reduced power) the car did NOT go into limp mode & it drove "normally" w/o any change in throttle control while accelerating or decelerating.

Haven't driven the car since it 1st happened because it's only 1 of 5 vehicles that I own/lease & because I had other things to do but am ready to deal w/this problem now.

Took it to my local mechanic who I trust & has worked on it before when the code 1st came up. He says his OBD II reader recommends changing the battery or CPU to "fix" the problem.

No problem starting so it's probably not the IBS; don't get the code 2E8 for that anyway.

I'm willing to buy a new battery (even though the current 1 is only 5 yrs old) but no way I'm buying/installing a new CPU because it is heavily modified.

Noticed the recommedation to "change/fix your alternator/voltage-regulator" if/when the code comes on while driving at high speed/rpm.

I was driving "at speed" (around 75-85) but not over 100 when the code came on before but I'm going to take it on a test drive this weekend to see if it the code comes up agin if I push it which would help narrow down the solution.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them.

Update 8/9/2024 & 1215pm Pacific Time:

Took the car out for a short drive on various types of roads & thru different traffic situations. The "engine malfunction" warning came up again twice, both while driving at a sedate 45-50 on city streets; no warning at highway speeds.

My mechanic is off today (a Friday) but I'll drive by on Monday to have him chk the codes & talk w/him about this problem again.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by SSW

I got this code about 3 months ago after my battery went dead because I forgot to hook it up to the Battery Tender. Never got this code before.

The code & an "engine malfunction" warning has come up a couple times while driving but (even though the warning says the car is driving with reduced power) the car did NOT go into limp mode & it drove "normally" w/o any change in throttle control while accelerating or decelerating.

Haven't driven the car since it 1st happened because it's only 1 of 5 vehicles that I own/lease & because I had other things to do but am ready to deal w/this problem now.

Took it to my local mechanic who I trust & has worked on it before when the code 1st came up. He says his OBD II reader recommends changing the battery or CPU to "fix" the problem.

No problem starting so it's probably not the IBS; don't get the code 2E8 for that anyway.

I'm willing to buy a new battery (even though the current 1 is only 5 yrs old) but no way I'm buying/installing a new CPU because it is heavily modified.

Noticed the recommedation to "change/fix your alternator/voltage-regulator" if/when the code comes on while driving at high speed/rpm.

I was driving "at speed" (around 75-85) but not over 100 when the code came on before but I'm going to take it on a test drive this weekend to see if it the code comes up agin if I push it which would help narrow down the solution.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them.

Update 8/9/2024 & 1215pm Pacific Time:

Took the car out for a short drive thru various types of [...]

Yeqh there is no limp mode but the DME disables the turbos until you restart the car again. So it kind if sucks. 🙄😂

Lots of people points to boost leaks. I have replaced some vaccum lines but not all.

Welcome to the 30FF club! ☝️😂 I am also chasing it. No hard codes only 30ff once in a while. Im replacing the low cost parts before I take it to a shop or dealership for diagnostic. Last time I was at the dealership they said there was a software update ( for a cost of course) to see if this would help but did not guarantee it. Im bypassing the vacuum canisters today or tomorrow to see if these are leaking and go for a test drive. I also have some rattling at start up.

Sometimes I experiemce an electrical gremlins here and there nothing major with the car and wonder if this new software update will help. One time my Radiator fan started to go crazy fast for no reason no overheating or anything. I just restarted and all good.

Im going backto dealership to find out more about tha new update to see if I should do it or not.

Anyways keep us posted ater your mechanic checks your car. I own a 2008 N54 engine with 115K miles. 🤘😊

[SSW]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Yeqh there is no limp mode but the DME disables the turbos until you restart the car again. So it kind if sucks. ����

Lots of people points to boost leaks. I have replaced some vaccum lines but not all.

Welcome to the 30FF club! ☝️�� I am also chasing it. No hard codes only 30ff once in a while. Im replacing the low cost parts before I take it to a shop or dealership for diagnostic. Last time I was at the dealership they said there was a software update ( for a cost of course) to see if this would help but did not guarantee it. Im bypassing the vacuum canisters today or tomorrow to see if these are leaking and go for a test drive. I also have some rattling at start up.

Sometimes I experiemce an electrical gremlins here and there nothing major with the car and wonder if this new software update will help. One time my Radiator fan started to go crazy fast for no reason no overheating or anything. I just restarted and all good.

Im going backto dealership to find out more about tha new update to see if I should do it or not.

Anyways keep us posted ater your mechanic checks your car. I own a 2008 N54 engine with 115K miles. ����

--------------------------------

I understand that the turbos on the N54 are always spooling but I don't think think "boost leaks" would be an issue since I was never mashing the pedal (rapidly accelerating) when the "engine malfunction" warnings popped up.

So, I don't see the connection (yet).

I wouldn't want to get a software update because my CPU has been significantly re-coded & I don't want to mess with that.

At the moment, I'm inclined to ask my mechanic to 1st do an overall current draw test & to specifically test the alt & reg 1st so see if anything pops &, if they're negative, to then buy a new battery to see what happens after that.

Beyond that, it seems that I'd have to take the car into the dealer to do a component by component test which I imagine would be very expensive but the only way to narrow down exactly what's causing the problem.

I just hope it doesn't come down to THAT!

[SSW]

Update 08/27/2024:

My 2008 E90 335i has been in the shop 3x to deal with the Engine Malfunction "warning" problem.

The 1st x, my mechanic just scanned the codes after I got the 1st "Engine Malfunction" warning. He found the 2DED (Power Drain) but not any other codes. Just asked him to clear the code but didn't ask him to do anything else to see if the warning would return or not.

Unfortunately, it did come back.

Took the car in for a 2nd x for an actual "diagnosis" when the warning came back. Asked my mechanic to check the battery, alternator & regulator & anything else he thought needed checking. This time my mechanic found the 2DED, 30FF (Turbo) & 28ED (IBS -- Intelligent Battery Sensor) codes. He found a lose or broken turbo vacuum hose & fixed it but when I picked up the car, the warning came back again in less than 2.5, the distance from the shop to my house.

The 3rd X, I asked my mechanic to replace the IBS (even though the car didn't have the symptoms reportedly associated w/a bad IBS, like hard starting) & to also check the turbo sensors. He replaced the IBS but told me that he didn't have the ability the check the turbo sensors & I'd have to get that done at the dealer if needed.

However, the engine warning did NOT return after I drove the car home the 3rd x & it did not come up during a 20 mile/30 min drive (at varying speeds & over varying road conditions) today.

I haven't driven the car enough yet to be fully confident the problem has been solved but I'm going to take it on a longer/faster drive in a few days & if the warning doesn't come back then, I should be able to say that it has.

I'll report back again after the long distance test drive.

Wish me luck!!!

--------------------------------------

Oh, PS: When I picked up the car the 3rd x, the rear driver's side door's window regulator broke. When to a body shop down the street that I use & was told they could fix it for me. So, gotta get that done now too. Oh well . . .

[SSW]

Update: 09/01/2024:

Well, no luck!!

Took the car out for another short drive -- 40 miles, less than 1 hr -- on a faster road & got another "Engine Malfunction" warning going about 65-70 just applying a little throttle to maintain speed up a hill.

In the interim, I bought a Foxwell NT510 BMW OBDII reader to read any codes that still get thrown & this is what came up:

Engine Electronics DME - Fault

30FF -- DME Turbo Boost Pressure Too Low

-------------------------------

Anyone know what problem this is a symptom of?

My mechanic says he can't diagnose turbo problems. So, my only choice is to take it to the dealer for this one unless someone can pin point the issue to ask if my mechanic can address it or not.

-------------------------------

A couple of interesting notes re this recent "Engine Malfunction" warning:

1) Didn't notice if the turbos cut out or not but car could still accelerate up to 100 mph despite the warning.

Didn't depress the throttle enough to test if the turbos were still working or not but the warning did not prevent the engine from functioning well enough to be driven at speed.

2) The triangular warning light in the dash went out when I turned the engine off & turned it back on at home.

Will have to drive it again to see if the turbos engage or not before another warning pops up.