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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Coolingmist, CMGS V1.07 Sneak Peak. Full compatibility Map switching
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01-19-2010, 11:57 PM | #23 | |
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01-24-2010, 09:52 AM | #25 |
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Installation in progress. No leakage and the pump runs quiet and nice.
http://s407.photobucket.com/albums/p...view=slideshow |
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01-25-2010, 02:49 PM | #27 | |
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Drives: C6 Z06, 09 335i, 10 335xi
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: www.TopGearSolutions.com
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Its basically like driving on race gas, which is where the safety and power aspect both come into play at the same time. Safety = reducing chance of knock Power = increased ignition, cooler intake charge. |
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01-29-2010, 08:25 PM | #28 |
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UPDATE:
CMGS/VC2 V1.07 has arrived. This is our final flash update for the CMGS unless we discover there is a need for some new functionality. Many of these new enhancements were from customer suggestions. I am very happy to share these with you. To be able to view I have made some simple screen prints of the documentation. You can download PDF as well. This chart shows you not only the new features of 1.07 but also shows the differences between 1.06 and 1.07. 1.07 is pretty substantial upgrade, it would almost qualify as a new product Last edited by coolingmist; 02-06-2010 at 01:26 PM.. |
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01-30-2010, 09:12 AM | #30 |
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To upgrade you need to send your controller to us there is no charge other than shipping to upgrade 1.06 to 1.07. email or pm us for the address.
David |
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01-31-2010, 12:00 PM | #31 |
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The installation is almost done; the CMGS is placed on the dash in a miniature 52 mm holder (Autogauge). There are a lot of cables from the CMGS, which are difficult to hide with this location. It looks good enough though by putting them in a nylon shield. The cables from the CMGS are quite short and it would have been much better if they were a meter or so since they now have to be extended in a visible area. I soldered the extension cables to the existing ones and protected them by shrink tube before putting on the shield. The location of the controller is good, which is important since it is used as boost gauge and also will display error codes in case of failures.
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...h/FILE0191.jpg |
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01-31-2010, 01:06 PM | #32 | |
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wow, thats a beautiful gauge, where did you get it? |
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01-31-2010, 01:39 PM | #33 | |
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01-31-2010, 03:15 PM | #34 | |
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http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...h/FILE0196.jpg Last edited by R1000K3; 02-01-2010 at 11:20 AM.. |
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02-06-2010, 10:18 AM | #36 |
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The installation is complete and the slideshow is updated with some more pics showing cabe routing and DC-powering of the system. http://s407.photobucket.com/albums/p...view=slideshow
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02-06-2010, 10:28 AM | #37 | |
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Either way love the neatness of the install! |
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02-06-2010, 12:54 PM | #38 |
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Coolingmist: Check your drawing in post #2. It seems the +12V to flow sensor is connected before the fuse, it should be fuse protected as well. Or am I missing something?
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02-06-2010, 01:01 PM | #39 |
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Well, its not going to help much. The CMGS fuse is either 10 or 15 amps depending on when you bought it. The flow sensor pulls under an amp, so if you got yourself in a position where you electrically damaged the flow sensor, putting it on the other side of the gauge is useless. When installed correctly the flow sensors are very reliable, we have seen very few failures. Most problems are install issues, or where customers think its cool to deviate from the diagram.
CM |
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02-06-2010, 01:07 PM | #40 |
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I see, but the worry is not for a flow sensor fault, I understand it can not draw a lot of current. The concern is that you never want to route an unfused cable true the car in case the cable itself is shortened. This is also why a put a fuse in the fuse box area and is not using the fuse directly on the CMGS. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...h/FILE0205.jpg
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02-06-2010, 01:28 PM | #42 |
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My suggestion is that you revise the drawing and also remove the bulky fuse, which is very close to the CMGS and recommend the fuse is located at the upstream end instead. This will make the area near the CMGS cleaner and is also a much safer solution in case of cable shortening. I've done a lot of installations on race cars and the last you want is a cable fire or harness melting in case of a simple fault.
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02-06-2010, 01:32 PM | #43 | |
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The bulky fuse is not sold on most of the CMGS. We did away with that a while ago. Most of the red ones that are sold have the bulky fuse as they were built that way. The blue CMGS were built later and most of them have the new one you see below. We just started our new batch of CMGS which will be available in the spring, all will have the fuse like below, but for now only the blue ones and a small number of red ones do. Most likely for the next batch, we will give the customers the fuse, but not have it connected to the wire. The customer can put it where they want. We have had more than 1 comment about this. I see criticism as nothing more than helping us make the best meth system...better. |
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02-06-2010, 01:42 PM | #44 |
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It is against common auto electric praxis for good reasons. A fuse does not do any good at the end of a cable, it shoud always be located as close to the power source as possible to also protect the cable. This is why all fuses in a car are centralized, and cables are drawn from there and then not need another fuse. By this both the cable and the item is fuse protected. Sorry for preaching but this is quite important and I have the feeling the CMGS designer is good on programming etc. but not as much on safe installations.
Edit: I now see you have edited the post above, good ! It is difficult to pinpoint a potential error without getting into a conflict and get a locked situation. You have once more shown patience and the ability to listen to improvement suggestions, which as you say will make a good system even better. Cheers :-) Last edited by R1000K3; 02-06-2010 at 01:50 PM.. |
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