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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Full Review on BMS PBX E90 330



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      04-21-2010, 11:49 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngtechman View Post
Guys

I scheduled to have it install tomorrow by Mike.
E90 330i

Wish me luck. The only worry i have is what if the PIN get lose after like couple months, since it is not OEM connector.

But may be I am worry little too much.

The chances of that happening are slim to none.
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      04-21-2010, 01:32 PM   #24
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^ +1 also not to ment the reason why tape was metioned in the DIY instructions.


ok so i turned of the PBX yesterday and was driving arounded and ended up getting pissed that the car just didnt want to move. and pulled over and reset everything and instantly felt better. in the 330 at least i can say that i am completely satisfied w/ the car. it is the way it should have come from the factory. i have to say that i really dont think it needs to be any faster. if i wanted faster then i would get something w/ a V8. the reason i turned it off is because i do a lot of driving everyday. about 60miles a day and was getting gas too many times so i wanted to see if there is a difference. i found that w/ the chip im getting about 1.5 MPG less and my driving style hasnt changed (im always going a little faster than everyone. if that helps explain myself)
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      04-23-2010, 12:35 AM   #25
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Ok, Mike installed PBX on my 330 today.
Super fast, took him like 20min.

So far so good. Will drive 2 days for ECU to pick up the change, but so far the response is quicker.
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      04-23-2010, 11:11 AM   #26
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Just ordered mine this morning. Anybody in the Kansas City area want to help me install?
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      05-18-2011, 11:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngtechman View Post
Ok, Mike installed PBX on my 330 today.
Super fast, took him like 20min.

So far so good. Will drive 2 days for ECU to pick up the change, but so far the response is quicker.
Man! I want to install this mod. Who's Mike?
I wish if anyone close to windsor or in Detroit can help me install it.
Any ideas out there?

Thanks.

Last edited by AKF12; 05-19-2011 at 10:25 AM..
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      05-20-2011, 12:04 AM   #28
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I installed my BMS Powerbox about two months ago. I absolutely think it is a must have mod for any non-turbo 6 cylinder BMW. It really unleashes the engine's lag and helps with the overall feel throughout the entire RPM range. I also agree with the poster in that the engine's RPM's seem to decelerate much faster as well. Anyways, I have also tossed around the idea of getting the Active Autowerke tune but for one you have to send your ECU out and for another I'm skeptical because really how much more power can you get out of our engines. I feel the Powerbox get's the best out of our engines.

Just a note when installing: Make sure you fit the male and female pins into each other at an angle. NOT a sharp (i.e. 60 degree angle) but at a 3 to 5 degree angle. You might have to push the male pin into the female pin once or twice, until you lightly tug on the connection and feel that it is snug...once it's snug you will feel it. Then take some masking or electrical tape and fold it over the conncetions. Which will help keep the pins from wiggling loose by themselves. (Note: do not wrap the tape around the connections fold it in half like a hot dog bun).

I can install the BMW PBX for anyone in San Diego, California. PM me if you have any questions.
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      05-20-2011, 07:12 PM   #29
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Anyone with 6MT who can comment on the pbx? I would imagine the effectiveness is different?
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      05-22-2011, 03:32 AM   #30
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i stand by the Op's positive review of the pbx. It really is good.
Only thing that I'm curious about is its performance WITHOUT the afe intake. Ive had my afe installed before I installed my pbx and I've ran them together ever since. So I have no clue what the performance is like without the afe intake. Judging by the non stop negativity of other members claiming that the afe "robs" your car of power, you would figure it would run better without the afe, but there are no numbers out there from a proven dyno to prove this. All I can say is that I'm happy with both.
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      05-22-2011, 08:48 AM   #31
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I have an euro spec E90 LCI 323i that runs the N52B25 engine, modded with K&N air filter and Supersprint Quad exhaust.

I will have to say effect of the Powerbox is outstanding with these mods.

Both intake and exhaust sound are louder with Powerbox on! Car pulls much much stronger at full throttle, and shift much much smoother at normal driving.

I agree it's a must for any NA N52.

Only thing is when the ecu adapted to the Powerbox, the car will be less responsive. I have to turn the powerbox off, drive for awhile and turn it back on. Then the car will feel alive again.
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      05-24-2011, 01:16 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcheapoloco View Post
Anyone with 6MT who can comment on the pbx? I would imagine the effectiveness is different?
I just installed one on a manual a few weeks ago and notice the throttle response and HP/TQ. The PBX only changes the amount of force needed to be applied in order to get the ECU to react more responsively to your commands. While adding a tune for the extra performance.

Hope that helps
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      05-24-2011, 08:14 AM   #33
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I installed my PBX last summer and i'm still struggling about this.

What makes me think its a bad mod :
- In 8 months, I had two check engines for running rich,
- I had injections problems that made me think that I had bad coils / plugs or even a bad sensor, but not that the PX is out from the car, the issue is gone!
- The ECU adapts over time and almost void all of the PBX effect,
- The jerkiness in the two first speeds in heavy traffic was driving me (and my passengers) crazy,

What makes me think its worth it:
- Cheap and easy mod,
- A lot of seat of the pants fun for the money,
- A really nice mod for learning to drive MT; If you can shift smoothly with the PBX, (because the RPM revs up and down a lot faster then stock) then the MT has no more secrets for you!
- No effect on MPG,
- Nice tune to have while you completing your project car and its easily resellable when you're done and ready for a custom tune.

Now I just took it off and the car feels soooo much smoother. Yes, its bad that its not as snappy as before, but I got the comfort back! Maybe i'll miss it, but not after getting a proper tune done.

If you're still debating about this, just try it. You can get a lot of them for cheap and still can sell it after for the same amount or really close to it. Its really one of the cheapest mod available out there that gives that much fun; but its just sad it doesnt last! You get bored pretty quickly.
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      05-24-2011, 08:58 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusJ View Post
- The ECU adapts over time and almost void all of the PBX effect,
Is this actually demonstrated anywhere outside of anecdotal observations? I read it here and there often, but haven't noticed it myself in ~10 months w/ mod.
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      05-24-2011, 09:14 AM   #35
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Ride your car, stop on the side of the road, reset the pbx, put it back on the map you were before stopping and compare. I was almost always on map 3 and it was like going from map 0 to map 3; but still, I was going from map 3 to map 3.
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      05-27-2011, 02:32 PM   #36
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still, you hear many opinions here on this forum recommending an ECU flash/tune over the PBX. I'm not sure where to get this tuning and how. Also, what's the price tag?
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      05-27-2011, 03:19 PM   #37
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Here is a review done by wareagle900 on Dec14/09, also compliments the BMS PBX;


BMS Powerbox E90 330i write-up and install


Quote:
Originally Posted by wareagle900 View Post
I started off the day with a massive migrane headache. I left school got home and proceeded to sleep for the next 7 hours. I awoke to a doorbell and no headache. Just the fact that my migrane was gone was fantastic but the day got even better when i opened the door to find a package from psi motorsports, my powerbox was here!

I promptly ripped open the envelope to find my powerbox just as it appeared in the pictures I had seen. My first thought was of the alarming amount of wires that i had seen on first glance. It turned out later that there really weren't that many and it was no big deal. I read the enclosed paper which directed me to their website for installation instructions. I watched the jb3 install video for reference then headed out to the car to begin the install. I opted to take my entire laptop out and sit it on the engine as opposed to printing 30 pages of the pdf file.

I removed several panels and doo-dads in the engine bay and after about 15 or 20 min. finally got to the ecu. BMw obviously didn't want people tampering around with it judging by the fact that there were 8 bolts, 23 clips, and 3 pieces ofthe engine bay to remove. However, it was by any means as difficult as that sounded. After the wiring i startedit up to find no warning lights so i put everything back in place and headed to m buddy's house for some butt dyno testing.

Install Tips/instructions

I didn't take any pictures but I think the supplied pictures by burger tuning are adequate for the install.

What you will need:
1) BMS PowerBox
2) Burger Tuning Instructions either printed or on a laptop
3) small to medium sized flat head screwdriver
4) 8mm socket and ratchet
5) very small screwdriver or nail (I used a 16d nail but eyeglass screwdriver is optimal)
6) electrical tape

Install Time:
Approximately 1 to 1.5 hours

Start by first opening the hood to your car and then turn the engine off and remove the key fob. Lock the doors and close the trunk. Let the car sit for at least 10 min. to put the ecu into sleep mode. If you have comfort access, put the key fob somewhere inside your house to avoid waking the ecu during the install process. After you have done this, go back inide and watch the jb3 install video provided by burger tuning. You can find this by going to their webpage locate here: http://burgertuning.com/support.html

After reading over the instructions, return to your vehicle and prepare for the install. Start by removing the cover to the ecu area located in the top left corner of the engine bay. This is accomplished by sliding the rubber tabs out of their slots in the plastic cover. The cover will then be hel on by two clips. lift up on one of them and remove the cover by lifting up and away. There will be a washer fluid line clipped to the under side of this piece. remove it by simply pulling the clip off of the panel. Remove the panel and set aside. Next go to the right side of the vehicle and remove the plastic cover in the top right of the engine bay. This is just like the left. Slide the rubber tabs out and then the piece is held on by two clips on either side. simply lift the tabs and pull the piece up and away. You will next remove a sensor located right near where the ecu cover was located. take your nail or small screwdriver and press in the small round hole on the left of the clip. Rotate it and it should pull right out. The wire is clipped to the same piece the sensor was on. Pull the two clips off of the shroud and set the sensor out of the way.

Next, take your socket and remove the six 8mm bolts holding the hvac filter in place. Remove the filter and set aside. Now grab your flat head screwdriver. locate the plastic rail holding the battery cable in place. Using your screwdriver, push down on the clips holding it in place and pull away. This will not be removed completely from the engine bay but will be sitting right in front of where it was clipped in. Now, use your flat head screwdriver to remove the cable harness located directly behind the powerstrip you just removed. now you can remove the two 8mm machine bolts located on the far left and right sides of the cowl. (1 on each side). After that the cowl will lift right out with a little coaxing. be sure an lift the cowl out at a 45 degree angle to clear the weatherstripping.

You are now ready to remove the white plastic cover on the left to expose the ecu. The cover is held in place by two sliding plastic clips and four smaller tabs on either side. Start by sliding the clips to unlock them and use your fingers to reach under the tabs. You will now be able to gently lift the cover away and expose the ecu. Now that you have access to the ecu, locate the large black connecter directly on top of the ecu itself. this is acually two connectors. one larger one on the left and a smaller one on the right. On the left of the larger clip is a triangular handle. this is the slider that locks the clip into place. pull this slider as far as you can to the left.(about 1.5 inches)
if it does not want to come out you may have to insert your screwdriver in between the slider and the connector and gently pry outward. Be careful not to damage the connector. Once out, the connector will pull up off of the ecu. once off, you will see that the there are two subconnectors (one black and one grey) located inside the large black connector. You are going to want to remove these from the main connector. To do this, depress the small retaining clip and pull gently on the wire bundle to slide the sub-connector out. once out, out will see that there are small numbers on the left and right of either side of the sub-connector. These number correspond to the wires running across the connector. you will use these numbers to determine which wire you are to remove.

Refer to the burger tuning instructions for which wires to remove and connect

Once you have connected the correct wires, reinsert the sub-connectors into the large black connector. here comes the hardest part of the entire installation, Make sure the slider is pulled all the way out. Center the connector over the ecu where it originally was. Push down while gently wiggling the connector if neccessary. The connector will slide down over the ecu. For the last 1/4 inch you will have to push the slider back in, Upon pushing in the slider the connector will seat itself back into the ecu fully. Now repeat this process for the smaller black connector on the right side of the ecu. This proccess is identical except for the fact that you mush remove the slider itself in order to extract the sub-connectors. to do this you must depress the retaining clips on top of the smaller main black connector and pull on the slider at the same time. Now that you have installed all necessary wires, You can attach the powerbox itself to the harness. Tighten the two screws lightly with your screwdriver. Start your car and ensure that it running properly with no warning lights. If not, refer to the troubleshooting guide provided by burger tuning. If everything is running properly, reattach all covers and panels as they were before. You are now ready to enjoy your new BMS PowerBox! Remember, Full benefits will not be seen for three or four days when the transmission adapts to the new settings.

Impressions

My first impression is wow! the throttle response is lightening quick without being jumpy. The transmission does not hesitate to downshift even in drive mode. The car feels quicker and definitely pulls harder longer. Especially in the higher rpm's the engine feels like it just keeps pulling. I will update the review after a few days when the transmission has adapted.
The full post link, http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331496
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      05-30-2011, 06:05 AM   #38
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I've driven Jay's car from Project M he has PBX & AFE intake plus his own prototype x-pipes, muffler, and exhaust. The response is freaking amazing. You get up to red-line in a blink of an eye. Almost feels like the transmission is in neutral the way the rpm revs so quickly. Here's a link to his car

Last edited by Buboniq; 05-30-2011 at 04:37 PM..
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      05-30-2011, 11:54 AM   #39
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sounds awesome but dark color liquid from exhaust...lol
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      05-30-2011, 12:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ska325xi View Post
sounds awesome but dark color liquid from exhaust...lol
You could have another issue with your car not related to the upgrade.
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