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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > More Macht Schnell Items Installed!



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      04-05-2010, 04:06 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by lamia2super View Post
My battery is in the passenger side which counters my weight in the drivers side
Same here. My battery is in the passenger's side as well but it's not going to make that much of a difference with the side to side motion.
Now, if you took off 200 pounds from one side then there would be a problem.

As I said, I really want to find a lightweight hood but I don't give a crap about carbon fibre because it will be painted.
I'm just looking for a lightweight hood.
Actually, I don't have a CD changer and that goes on the driver's side when installed so if you think about it, I was already a little tilted by that rational.
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      04-05-2010, 04:12 PM   #24
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What ever happened to the Macht Schnell intake you said you were running before?
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      04-05-2010, 04:16 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by TMR View Post
What ever happened to the Macht Schnell intake you said you were running before?
I'm using the filters that came with their kit and used them for the intake that I made.
I think the MS intake is still a work in process.
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      04-05-2010, 04:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. 5 View Post
Same here. My battery is in the passenger's side as well but it's not going to make that much of a difference with the side to side motion.
Now, if you took off 200 pounds from one side then there would be a problem.

As I said, I really want to find a lightweight hood but I don't give a crap about carbon fibre because it will be painted.
I'm just looking for a lightweight hood.
Actually, I don't have a CD changer and that goes on the driver's side when installed so if you think about it, I was already a little tilted by that rational.
I get you. I have a CF hood and trunk I even removed the heavy ass system I had in the trunk. My next step is to sell my rims and buy some super light weight rims
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      04-05-2010, 08:03 PM   #27
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The scoops obviously makes it easier for rain to enter the intake, how concerned should we be?
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      04-05-2010, 08:27 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by BayerischeMW View Post
The scoops obviously makes it easier for rain to enter the intake, how concerned should we be?
Not concerned at all.
The OEM air box is made to drain any sort of water that enters the box.
If you also notice when opening the box the filter is on the top of the box so air enters below the filter, so if any water enters the box then the water will fall to the bottom and drain.

If you have an aftermarket intake then the water will just fall off before it hits the filter.
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      04-05-2010, 08:33 PM   #29
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A scoop is a scoop...
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      04-05-2010, 09:30 PM   #30
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A scoop is a scoop...
I disagree. If you are scooping out ice cream, what would you rather have?
An ice cream scooper or a baby spoon?
If you look at the pictures, you can see how the scoops vary by manufacturer. Look at how the MS scoops go all the way to the edge of the grills to grab air.
A lot of scoops are rectangular and don't grab as much air.

Compare these pictures. The first picture was the first set of scoops that I had.


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      04-05-2010, 11:57 PM   #31
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My RIss Racing Scoops
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      04-06-2010, 12:38 AM   #32
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Your battery bracket looks very similar to mine. However mine doesn't have those extensions. The OEM bracket bolts it down still. I don't know if yours has those extension ears on the base to accomodate a bigger battery?

With the I-Drive, I don't think that 15lb battery will cut it. I often got excessive battery discharge warnings on the screen. I rarely could listen to the radio, or have the key on for more than a couple minutes before warnings came on. And at Sacramento, my car had to be jump started at the track. Its so much nicer to have the OEM battery back in. But it is a lot heavier!

I had scoops on my car. It seems the reduced flow to the radiator hurt my vbox times more than any benefit of the scoops. There is also the issue of my debris and moisture with them. I vboxed before installing, with them on, and after removing them. I decided to leave them off.

Craig, how are you liking your Vbox? Like I said, it is very useful and will detect the smallest of changes, as long as you are consistant, start off at the exact same spot for your 1/4 mile tests, etc.
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      04-06-2010, 09:05 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post
With the I-Drive, I don't think that 15lb battery will cut it. I often got excessive battery discharge warnings on the screen. I rarely could listen to the radio, or have the key on for more than a couple minutes before warnings came on. And at Sacramento, my car had to be jump started at the track. Its so much nicer to have the OEM battery back in. But it is a lot heavier!
Thats what i wanted to hear Thank You, but he did say that they recommend the 21lb bettery for cars with I-drive.

this battery is pretty intense. It weighs nothing and has the same power as the 21lbs battery.
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/ml30c/
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      04-06-2010, 09:24 AM   #34
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I would love to have THAT battery!

But damn...$2000!
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      04-06-2010, 09:26 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post
I would love to have THAT battery!

But damn...$2000!
forreal thats nuts
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      04-06-2010, 09:26 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamia2super View Post
Thats what i wanted to hear Thank You, but he did say that they recommend the 21lb bettery for cars with I-drive.

this battery is pretty intense. It weighs nothing and has the same power as the 21lbs battery.
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/ml30c/
For 2K that battery better make the car fly... Yeah it may have the same crank amps as the 21/22lbs battery, but for is it really worth it to loose an extra 10lbs for $1800?

That sort of application would make sense if you needed to loose every single pound out of your car... While your at it, remove the passenger side seat and loose the rear seats as well...

Unless your racing, a 10lbs lithium battery makes no sense, unless you like spending 2k on a battery..
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      04-06-2010, 09:53 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post
Your battery bracket looks very similar to mine. However mine doesn't have those extensions. The OEM bracket bolts it down still. I don't know if yours has those extension ears on the base to accomodate a bigger battery?
The extensionears fit into the OEM slots so the battery could be tightened down by the OEM clamp. It looks like you can't use the OEM clamp becuase you don't have that extension.
The bracket on top is not supposed to be the main thing to hold the bracket in place. The clamp is very important.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post

With the I-Drive, I don't think that 15lb battery will cut it. I often got excessive battery discharge warnings on the screen. I rarely could listen to the radio, or have the key on for more than a couple minutes before warnings came on. And at Sacramento, my car had to be jump started at the track. Its so much nicer to have the OEM battery back in. But it is a lot heavier!
You were insane to go with a 15 lb battery. 21 pounds should have been the minimum for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post

It seems the reduced flow to the radiator hurt my vbox times more than any benefit of the scoops.
I would love to see your explanation with why flow to your radiator hurt your Vbox times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod182 View Post

Craig, how are you liking your Vbox? Like I said, it is very useful and will detect the smallest of changes, as long as you are consistant, start off at the exact same spot for your 1/4 mile tests, etc.
I like the vbox but I don't use it all the time. I don't have a long stretch of road close to my house like you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lamia2super View Post
Thats what i wanted to hear Thank You, but he did say that they recommend the 21lb bettery for cars with I-drive.

this battery is pretty intense. It weighs nothing and has the same power as the 21lbs battery.
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/ml30c/
You're correct. 21 lbs is what you should use with i drive. 15 pounds is just crazy unless you are using the lithium battery. The cranking amps for the regular 15 pound battery is just not going to cut it.

BTW, I'm sure if you were building a race car, race boat, or ralley car, and you wanted to have the lightest weight possible then that battery would be more of a necessity rather than an expence.
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      04-07-2010, 09:58 AM   #38
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BTW guys, there's another member that was running the 15 lb Braille in his 335 and he was having the same conditions as Hotrod. He also has Nav.
The bottom line is that if you have Nav then stick with the 21 pound battery if you don't want any issues.
If you have minimal accessories like I do then you can do the 17 pounder.
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      04-07-2010, 03:49 PM   #39
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Those small batteries will die pretty quick if you let them discharge often. I killed a couple before investing in a battery tender and have had no problems since. if you ever let the car sit more than a couple days and park in a garage with an accessible power outlet I would recommend picking one up just to make the battery last longer.
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      04-07-2010, 03:53 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by DriftDreamzSS View Post
Those small batteries will die pretty quick if you let them discharge often. I killed a couple before investing in a battery tender and have had no problems since. if you ever let the car sit more than a couple days and park in a garage with an accessible power outlet I would recommend picking one up just to make the battery last longer.
I agree with you if your car isn't a daily driver.
This is why I said this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. 5 View Post
I had the 17 pound battery in the past and the only time that my car didn't start was when I went to Scottland for a couple weeks...

This battery is perfect for the daily driver without all of the bells and whistles.
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      04-07-2010, 04:33 PM   #41
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Doesn't Braille also offer an 18 pounder? Any idea why that one has less Crank Amps then the 17 pounder?

How much did it run you for the Battery and Mach Schnell Brace/bracket? 300? Im thinking I'm going to go for the 21lbs myself...
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      04-07-2010, 05:05 PM   #42
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2k for a battery!!! I'd rather remove the the baby seat, take my gym bag out of my trunk and go on a diet to save 33lbs.
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      04-07-2010, 05:28 PM   #43
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2k for a battery!!! I'd rather remove the the baby seat, take my gym bag out of my trunk and go on a diet to save 33lbs.
That never made sense to me.
Do both and you'll save 66 pounds!

Also, the battery that I got wasn't the lithium battery.
I got the regular "no weight battery" here:
http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...oducts_id=2350

And here is the enclosure:
http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...oducts_id=2323
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      04-07-2010, 05:52 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Army335xi View Post
Doesn't Braille also offer an 18 pounder? Any idea why that one has less Crank Amps then the 17 pounder?

How much did it run you for the Battery and Mach Schnell Brace/bracket? 300? Im thinking I'm going to go for the 21lbs myself...
I believe that the 18 pounder is meant for slim and tight spaces.
I would stick with either the 17 pounder or 21 pounder.
I also updated the initial post with the links.
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