[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Default Settings.... Stick to the basics.

[themyst]

And iats still don't indicate flow. U can have iats drop but ur meth not flowing properly and that would be evident in the timing logs. Since u don't have that luxury it's mostly guesswork.

[M3 Eater]

jp.... you on the procede now???

I just had an amazing run.....on JB3 with recommended settings plus a tweak. Patience Danyo San....
map 8 throttle set to 20, pwm 15, pid set to 42. everything else is default.

Actually I am way more the student than the master here on thread with JPslick.

On 99% of JB3 users, default works great.... but 18 ohm and now 15 and 12... there is some tweaking that needs to be done. After all I broke open my tune, cut out three resistors... and soldered 3 back in. Obviously I am up for the work and the task and I expect to do a little more that most, but I expect to get a little more than most. There are recommended settings for 18 ohmers but they just aren't clear as I need them to be and did a lot of searching to find what the 400+ers are doing setting wise. I am happy with my results and I enjoyed every moment of running this log!!!! The risk is there but now I know where I am trying to be on map 8 to get 400+, it took all night... actually weeks but here I am and happy with my results.

Dynoliciuos Results.
0-10 MPH: 1.07 sec
0-20 MPH: 1.76 sec
0-30 MPH: 2.43 sec
0-40 MPH: 3.23 sec
0-50 MPH: 3.94 sec
0-60 MPH: 4.75 sec
0-70 MPH: 5.96 sec
0-80 MPH: 7.03 sec
0-90 MPH: 8.25 sec
0-100 MPH: 9.83 sec
Elapsed Time
60': 2.64 sec @ 30.8 MPH
330': 6.01 sec @ 67.8 MPH
1/8 mi: 8.70 sec @ 92.4 MPH
1000': 10.99 sec @ 106.8 MPH
1/4 mi: 12.91 sec @ 119.6 MPH Wheel spin city even with dtc on.
Miscellaneous
Max Speed: 119.1 MPH
Max Acceleration: 0.71 G's
Peak Horsepower: 415 HP

Had tons of wheel spin off the line, thats why the time is so slow... even though I used traction control, the setting was 27 on jB3... I bumped it up to 34 for the next run. I expect results to only get better. Again remeber.... this is only map 8 17 psi, I still have map 9 in case of an emergency.

[M3 Eater]

here is timing dude... I got it covered....

I know procede does it all and I am jealous. But be happy that I am happy ok...

[themyst]

Jp got a procede right when I got it then yandyr now go run the car down a real drag strip

[M3 Eater]

Originally Posted by themyst

Jp got a procede right when I got it then yandyr now go run the car down a real drag strip

whats the fun in that???? hey look at me i can do a 12sec 1/4 in a 4 door!

Id rather blow the doors off a new mustang right here in town!

[Clap135]

Your timing looks pretty bad with those drop offs.

[jblackwell]

Originally Posted by Clap135

Your timing looks pretty bad with those drop offs.

+1. Assuming that's a pull, shift and a longer pull....that's not good. Serious knock followed by a serious pull back.

Again, a timing log with no RPM, IAT, PSI, Throttle angle, etc. Tough to say.

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by jblackwell

+1. Assuming that's a pull, shift and a longer pull....that's not good. Serious knock followed by a serious pull back.

Again, a timing log with no RPM, IAT, PSI, Throttle angle, etc. Tough to say.

Tough to call it knock without seeing any boost on the run, but it does look like a KR event.

[M3 Eater]

Wow... didn't know that was bad...

thats 3rd gear.... followed by 4th... followed by 5th.

That drop is a shift in an auto. I thought that timing log looked standard.

I see that are a few dips in 4th. Is it really that bad?

[M3 Eater]

wouldn't I get Knock codes... if i was in fact experiencing a knock related event???

[M3 Eater]

I am using a labonte tank.. I shouldn't be getting air bubbles in a gravity fed tank causing a drop right at or around the shift. I see after the first large dip, That the shift from 3rd to 4th. the first part of 4th is strong and takes a hit. It drops to around 9 8.5 at the lowest and is my focal point for improvement. Its the reason I don't run map 9 (18.5psi sustained) I get the same curve on map 9 and its not perfect so I stick with map 8. Not sure what that dip could be, No holes in the line as it was tested and protected by fuel line. It runs under the car so I have it insulated. This is good and bad. If I get a pinch in my meth tube, the leak has to fill the gas line before its noticed. I have had leaks before and discover them right away because the Fuel line is snug to the meth line....I needed lube to get it in all the way. This will support a hole, improve the wall strength of the meth line from pump to solenoid. Bad when you have a hole and don 't know it or where it is because you have meth leaking from both side of the fuel hose or it evaporates before you notice

A suspect may be the solenoid and its interaction with the labonte controller. It has a test mode on the controller so I use it to check for leaks, pressure etc. I haven't pumped direct pressure to it to see how it interacts with the boost trigger, I have tried a check valve before for this reason and I still get the same readings. I know that 8.5 isn't perfect timing and I am suppose to be able to pull 10 if I need it in a shift (my understanding of this set-up). Usually timing logs are done 1 gear at a time and maybe thats why they look like crap because it was just a 30mph WoT launch starts in 3rd, ends in 5th right before the hyper drive kicks in and I move ahead in time a few moments.

Thanks guys for any help. I know the first piece of advise over here is get a procede. I am in an Auto and I have had nothing but good vibrations from the JB3. I come over here because I know you guys are here...more of you now.. that really know what your doing. I know in the auto I should be able to run any map I want and there is some small detail thats holding me back. I have been over it all time and time again. I think its my logging technique that has everyone's panties in a bind.

Back on track.... don't want my thread loosing tread.

I have come to conclude that the with the lower settings of PWM I see it logging across the top of the log. As I increase the number I see it pulling away more often and moving up and down up and down. I am thinking that this is the breathing we want to see to make sure mechanically everything is doing what is suppose to and there are no leaks. ( this is what I take from the earlier instruction in this thread) On map 8 the setting of 18 for PWM feels strong, appears to allow more sustained boost (ie after a shift the boost target is higher and remains higher for a longer period of time) Looks like the preboost is higher for longer. I don't know if this means that the computer has to work harder to get where its trying to go, or that it is able to work harder because it is right where it wants to be. I have tried settings as low as 12 and high as 28 and there is an noticeable difference in acceleration anytime I make changes supported by logs with pwm activity max out, and then starting to "breathe".

So Mike....if you get a chance to let me know what you think about the PWM setting... I have a grip on throttle as the response when stepping on the pedal and during shifts. ( for this watch the log and keep the spike on the chart. I notice that higher the number, the more agressive the shift, the lower the number the smoother it is and appears gentler on the transmission and the rear end.,

PID is the on button. The higher this # is the higher the level ofboost targets from a given map. I have been as high as 45 and low as 30. I like 45! I have seen Terry's posts where he gets 450+ at the wheels with a setting of 40 so i have experimented with it an awe full lot! 35 is a recommended starting point for 18 ohmers. ( by terry not by me, I like 45!)

Taper is the simplest setting of them all I think. Use the recommended settings for this, the higher the #, the more quickly boost will reduce once it has reached its target for a given gear. This reduction is governed mostly by temp (iat). The hotter it is the more quickly a high setting will reduce boost. I add a few to the number that terry has set for default if I run a higher map. This is a built in fail safe that will allow jb3 to sense that the temp is too high and will lower boost based on temp. With meth governing the temp, if i get a air pocket or a hot spot, JB3 automaticaly will be reducing boost and a slim line of defense against knock.

Hey, this info may be partially correct and it could be all wrong but its my best guess based on the info I have gathered.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Hey, this info may be partially correct and it could be all wrong but its my best guess based on the info I have gathered.

To be honest it's all wrong and I don't have much advice for you other than to just run the default suggested settings. Taper, min target, max target all determine the ECU's boost target which is used to control throttle movement under boost. They do not need to be changed on a per mod basis. Only some ECUs require a unique setting. PID controls the aggressiveness in targeting and throttle gain puts the brakes on when boost starts to rise too quickly. You're wasting your time trying to master a system you were never supposed to touch in the first place, and one that will soon be obsolete with the G4 board.

Mike

[M3 Eater]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

To be honest it's all wrong and I don't have much advice for you other than to just run the default suggested settings. Taper, min target, max target all determine the ECU's boost target which is used to control throttle movement under boost. They do not need to be changed on a per mod basis. Only some ECUs require a unique setting. PID controls the aggressiveness in targeting and throttle gain puts the brakes on when boost starts to rise too quickly. You're wasting your time trying to master a system you were never supposed to touch in the first place, and one that will soon be obsolete with the G4 board.

Mike

Agreed!

My ECU has been equipped with a boost lag fix from BMW only available on certain year, certain born on date models. Together with the 18 ohm resistor upgrade that was recommended and the unique list of mods that I have, the G4 is going to be the best way to manage the equation. Im sold on the G4 board, just trying to understand why my car is so much faster now that I have dialed it in. It was a really simple question... pwm activity. I will be curious the role of the wastegate plays weather I autotune or not.

[M3 Eater]

got my timing logs straightened out. Needed more meth in my meth water mixture to accommodate the boost. As for the drop offs, that may be some air in the line or something but now I drop 4 points down to 11.... never below 10. Also I am doing 4th gear only log tracking so none of that other mess in the way..... thanks guys for the help....