[The HACK]

Originally Posted by gbreeE90

You have tightened your steering wheel?

LOL. You'd be surprised. Yes I have physically tightened the collar nut that holds the steering wheel to the steering column.

[Overlord]

Ignore 330 MX. He drives live there's a baby seat in the back seat already

[neoduffer]

Originally Posted by canderson

Thanks for all the feedback. I did take a 3 day track course from Track Techniques and I do have a copy of "Going Faster." I know that the driver has the biggest effect by far and I will work that component, but improving the car is an independent variable I would like to play with.

Camber: Very interesting. What is the stock setting and the recommended setting for the track? How do I change camber? Recommended camber plates? Should I do both front and rear? I don't see a camber plate DIY.

Front camber plates would be sufficient. Front's are typically -0.5° to -0.75°.

Darin at West End (a popular socal alignment shop with track guys) was impressed after setting a e92 335i with Dunlop Direzza Star Specs and Ground Control camber plates to -3° in the front. He said that this car was probably one of the fastest around the track than most of the similarly equipped cars at the track. Tire life is reduced about 20%, granted you flip the tires from left to right a few times. He felt the 20% cost hit was well worth the increased handling. You don't have to go as extreme as -3° to see results. He said that you should feel the difference with as little as -1.0° to -1.5°.

He also recommended adjusting the toe, while at the track, a half turn outward to increase turn in response and dynamic camber. Turn the steering adjuster back a half turn when you head back on the streets. (Threaded steering rod for adjusting the toe - remember to mark the original location before turning)

He didn't mention anything about adjusting the rear. As you load the suspension, you get some additional dynamic camber. The car's natural tendency is understeer, so you probably don't need the additional grip on the rears yet. Get the fronts gripping and then you can use some throttle lift to rotate the car in the corner.

Those were the main items covered at the Autocross Tech Talk at West End. The difference between an big track and AutoX is in the rear. More stable rear via a toe in biased setting vs less stable rear via toe out biased setting. The thinking behind that was AutoX speeds are so slow that there isn't enough inertia to rotate the rear around, so you need to help get the rears loose to rotate the car. You don't want the same level rotating rear on a big track, so stock toe in setting provides stability.

my 2 cents

[marcel b]

Originally Posted by neoduffer

Get the fronts gripping and then you can use some throttle lift to rotate the car in the corner.

sounds like my car
The additional camber in front also allows you to increase the tiresize in front. 265 does fit and with a 265 square set-up the car drives briliant.

[acs-e36]

how do you like the awd on the track???

[GaryS]

I have seen a lot of posts about high oil temps and limp mode on the track. There are several options, but FWIW I have a cp-e FMIC/OC which keeps temps under control for me.

[KKelly]

Originally Posted by ChargePlus

Having raced, and still racing, a low powered car (1981 Mazda RX7 with SCCA), I agree with The Hack. I really can't add any more than what he has already said, except to emphasize his #1 - The nut behind the steering wheel. The stock 335 has way more capability than a relatively new track driver. I would imagine that by the end of next year if you do another 5 or more full weekend events (6-8 sessions a weekend) you will have reached a point where you might be limited by the vehicle.

That said, I have a friend who has been driving/racing/instructing for a number of years and he continues to find more time every time he goes out in his fairly stock Miata. Same with another friend who runs an RX8, whom I've raced against in my SRX7.

Worry about improving #1 first and have fun doing it. When you reach the limits of your hardware then start upgrading. It will be really cool when you're good enough to know what you upgraded and how exactly it affected the car.

Cheers,

- John

I am firmly in this camp. If you are constantly adding mods, is your car faster because you are getting better or just going faster because of the mods while you aren't getting any better.

When I first tracked my M5 in '99 I put a Dinan springs and Bilsteins on it (it had that SLS rear suspension); bought an extra set of wheels with a good street tire, RE71's if I recall; and some better brake pads. I can say that adding swaybars and then later camber plates did make the biggest difference in handling. However, my focus was mostly to make the car track worthy (heat, wear and tear) not "fast." Think about everything in terms of wear and tear.

As the owner of a 335i and knowing what one has to do wtih car prep to go to the track, I would go stay with what you have if you aren't having braking problems. Once you are starting to overheat brakes and tires maybe go BBK in front and camber (maybe just the M3 suspension arms?). As long as you aren't runnig track toe out settings in daily driving any track abuse (even with camber) will even out the tire wear. While 18" wheels are nice, 17" track tires are LOTS cheaper (and usually lighter) so if you get a separate set of wheels you want to keep this in mind (then maybe you can't run a BBK). Consumables, and the cost of them, are a big consideration for driving school junkies.

I leave my M3 on track settings because I only drive it on occassion. It really isn't too bad on the street and cloverleafs are fun.

Personally, I don't know how one can really get agressive on corner exit in a 335i without an aftermarket diff.

P.S. You can likely pick up an E36 M3 track car for the cost of a BBK and fancy wheels. Something to keep in mind. Mine is worth $6-7K even with the AST's.

[canderson]

Originally Posted by acs-e36

how do you like the awd on the track???

I had an absolute blast in my 335xi. Great fun powering out of corners and, well, everywhere else too. I recently installed the cp-e FMIC and oil cooler. I didn't have overheating or "limp mode" problems before so I should be safe now. I'll do some brake upgrades in the spring and leave it at that for now. Although some lightweight 18" wheels and tires would make a nice Christmas gift...