[vasillalov]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

A vendor should make a plug and play harness and clean up, they did this on my last car.

You are a vendor no? or just a drop shipper?

If anything ECSTuning is known for making all sorts of custom wiring harnesses.

[JamesM3M5]

I know this is back from the dead, but someone referenced it and I have to say:

NOOOOOOOOO! You cannot splice on a 5-wire wideband O2 sensor. Each individual sensor is calibrated with a resistor that gets laser-trimmed to spec built into the connector. If you put a different sensor on that connector, it WILL NOT BE CORRECT.

[prelude2perfect]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

I know this is back from the dead, but someone referenced it and I have to say:

NOOOOOOOOO! You cannot splice on a 5-wire wideband O2 sensor. Each individual sensor is calibrated with a resistor that gets laser-trimmed to spec built into the connector. If you put a different sensor on that connector, it WILL NOT BE CORRECT.

I need to replace mine and am wondering if anyone else can verify this statement.

Seems incorrect to me as many are already running non oem ones with no reported problems and bosch has them listed to work.

Anyone? I need to replace these asap

[prelude2perfect]

Here's what Bosch has listed:


15733

Universal Oxygen Sensor



N54B30A Eng.
Downstream
For cylinders 1-3





16795

Oxygen Sensor



N54B30A Eng.
Downstream
For cylinders 1-3





16796

Oxygen Sensor



N54B30A Eng.
Downstream
For cylinders 4-6





17098

Oxygen Sensor



N54B30A Eng.
Upstream
For cylinders 1-3





17102

Oxygen Sensor



N54B30A Eng.
Upstream
For cylinders 4-6

[benzy89]

Give ECS some business, they've got both the BMW Bosch sensors (simple swap for your old/broken ones) and then Bosch generic sensors (requires wire splicing, etc)

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...gine/Emission/

I'd say buy the Authentic BMW ones, you'll save yourself some frustration if the DIY Sensors break/don't work out. It's not like these get replaced often, unless you're riding around w/o the underbody shield off

[Chrisred]

First off, how do u know of your O2 sensor has gone bad. I'm fully catless btw....

[._.]

Originally Posted by Chrisred

First off, how do u know of your O2 sensor has gone bad. I'm fully catless btw....

error codes.

[benzy89]

Lambda Bank/Emissions/o2 Sensor Fault Codes -- Usually will trigger a SES light & can cause misfires.

[Chrisred]

Originally Posted by benzy89

Lambda Bank/Emissions/o2 Sensor Fault Codes -- Usually will trigger a SES light & can cause misfires.

So I'm assuming codes like 2C31 2C32 lambda probe in front of cat 1 & 2??? guess both my sensors are shot!!!

[benzy89]

That would be correct. I was getting similar codes but mine were installed wrong when I got my VRSF DPs put in. Are you getting misfires or just fault codes?

[Chrisred]

Originally Posted by benzy89

That would be correct. I was getting similar codes but mine were installed wrong when I got my VRSF DPs put in. Are you getting misfires or just fault codes?

Misfires on 4 5 6 cylinders. Plus also says misfire on multiple cylinders. I changed spark plugs like 8 months ago. I get limp mode on WOT

[prelude2perfect]

Originally Posted by benzy89

Give ECS some business, they've got both the BMW Bosch sensors (simple swap for your old/broken ones) and then Bosch generic sensors (requires wire splicing, etc)

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...gine/Emission/

I'd say buy the Authentic BMW ones, you'll save yourself some frustration if the DIY Sensors break/don't work out. It's not like these get replaced often, unless you're riding around w/o the underbody shield off

Thanks, but no. ECS gets plenty of business already and the difference in cost between BMW OEM and Bosch non BMW is too great. I'm not spending an extra $150+ just because it's labeled as OEM when the same company that makes the one for BMW also makes the same ones for cheaper. It's not like I'm comparing OEM to some ebay no-name-brand special here.

[JamesM3M5]

Just remember DO NOT SPLICE in a 5-wire sensor (pre-cat widebands for us) into your existing connector. The connector has a resistor that is burned away to calibrate the wideband output. If you splice in a different sensor onto an existing connector, you will end up with improper sensor calibration. It will "work", but it will put out an incorrect AFR to the ECU.

[benzy89]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Just remember DO NOT SPLICE in a 5-wire sensor (pre-cat widebands for us) into your existing connector. The connector has a resistor that is burned away to calibrate the wideband output. If you splice in a different sensor onto an existing connector, you will end up with improper sensor calibration. It will "work", but it will put out an incorrect AFR to the ECU.

I'd rather spend $150 on a busted sensor then $50 on a Bosch universal & take the chance it destroys my AFRs. If you are technically savy enough to do the install correctly, by all means, save $100 & by the Bosch universal sensor.

[prelude2perfect]

I guess I'm a bit confused. Do I have to splice these or are they plug and play?:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-17098-Ox...ds=bosch+17098

http://www.oxygensensorfactory.com/s....epc?sku=17102

[JamesM3M5]

17098 and 17102 should be direct plug and play. Front sensor has a black sheathing and 1400mm long wire, rear sensor has a grey sheathing and 1200mm wire.

It is OK to splice in universal POST-cat O2 sensors, as they are not wideband with the calibration resistor. It is NOT OK to splice in generic 5-wire wideband sensors to the PRE-cat O2 sensors, no matter how cheap they may be.

[prelude2perfect]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

17098 and 17102 should be direct plug and play. Front sensor has a black sheathing and 1400mm long wire, rear sensor has a grey sheathing and 1200mm wire.

It is OK to splice in universal POST-cat O2 sensors, as they are not wideband with the calibration resistor. It is NOT OK to splice in generic 5-wire wideband sensors to the PRE-cat O2 sensors, no matter how cheap they may be.

Thank you VERY much for confirming that!

[prelude2perfect]

I wonder why 17102 is so much more expensive and harder to find than the 17098

Here's the lowest I found on the 17098: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BOSCH-OX...0d54e5&vxp=mtr

And here's the lowest I found on the 17102: http://www.oxygensensorfactory.com/s....epc?sku=17102

I might as well buy a BMW one for that price

[JamesM3M5]

You could get two of the bank 1 sensor 17098 and just mark which one is which, wrap up the extra wire, and save some $$.

It could be that the 17098 fits lots of cars but the 17102 only fits the N54?

Actually, just checked, that's what it is. The 17098 fits N52 and N54 engines, while the 17102 is N54 specific.

[prelude2perfect]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

You could get two of the bank 1 sensor 17098 and just mark which one is which, wrap up the extra wire, and save some $$.

It could be that the 17098 fits lots of cars but the 17102 only fits the N54?

Actually, just checked, that's what it is. The 17098 fits N52 and N54 engines, while the 17102 is N54 specific.

Do you think the wire length is different? I don't feel like checking, anyone know this?

[brusk]

I didn't see any examples of the "splicing" but just wanted to throw out some info, they teach in mechanics school never to solder O2 Sensor wires that they should be spliced using a waterproof connector pack. Bosch possibly still makes one where you shove in all the wires into a connector and they get crushed in place. Also some vehicles are sensitive to resistance changes such as wire length. I had an 07 Ram Hemi that the budget long tube headers placed the sensors too far back for the stocks to reach and after using another dodge replacement sensor it would occasionally throw O2 sensor codes for no known reason. Any body done side by side testing on these to see if a dyno notices any slight differences.

[JamesM3M5]

Originally Posted by brusk

I didn't see any examples of the "splicing" but just wanted to throw out some info, they teach in mechanics school never to solder O2 Sensor wires that they should be spliced using a waterproof connector pack. Bosch possibly still makes one where you shove in all the wires into a connector and they get crushed in place. Also some vehicles are sensitive to resistance changes such as wire length. I had an 07 Ram Hemi that the budget long tube headers placed the sensors too far back for the stocks to reach and after using another dodge replacement sensor it would occasionally throw O2 sensor codes for no known reason. Any body done side by side testing on these to see if a dyno notices any slight differences.

Signal wires, especially analog voltage wires (0-5V or 0-1V), are suceptible to voltage drops/changes across bad splices. Never solder, only use crimps. Butt splices are OK but can definitely cause problems. If I have to change/lengthen wires, I always use unshielded crimps where the wires overlap each other and heat-shrink with moisture seal heat shrink. This is especially important on BMW light circuits where the check control system detects a change in resistance across the wire and throws a bad bulb code. Our trunk wiring harnesses are getting old enough now that people have broken wires in the bend point where the wires go from the trunk to the trunk lid. If you repair them poorly or solder them, you will get bulb warnings on the check control. It is so sensitive that cheap auto-parts store bulbs will throw codes/warnings.

But again, NEVER splice a wideband onto a different connector. Post-cat narrowbands or cars that use narrowband sensors it's OK to splice.