[vasillalov]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Valves and ports were covered with carbon.. not to the point where I'm too worried, but just enough to be bothersome. I wasn't able to get a clean picture. ** I had Seafoam'd it 3x 7,000 miles ago, 3x 3,000 miles ago.

That makes me think that seafoam really does not work well at all...

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Chefcg1

good write up, I was considering this myself, but where did you get the HPFP that cheap?

Here is a Tischer link.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214672
Since I had procrastinated ordering from Tischer, it of course went out right when I couldn't wait and needed the car this weekend...but the dealership didn't hesitate to match their price and had [plenty] in stock.

Originally Posted by Juiced46

There is absolutely no reason to remove the intake manifold. Remove the air box, charge pipe and throttle body and thats it. The sensor box you can just bend it up by hand and this will give you plenty of room to get the 3 5mm hex bolts that hold the pump on. A long 5mm ball-hex 1/4 socket will do the trick to reach in there. You can see the back bolt if you look straight down through the intake manifold.

True, but I simply preferred to spend the extra 2 minutes and have a plethora of room to work with, and also be able to clean everything. Since I'm not a tech working on flat rate, why not take the extra couple minutes to make the job significantly easier?

Originally Posted by vasillalov

Good stuff! It is indeed not that hard at all.

One thing I did notice: the HPFP is mounted via aluminum bolts. Those must be replaced each time they are removed.

The parts guy was coherent enough to tell me about the al bolts that would need to be replaced...however got mixed up and only gave me one. Luckily I had a few other M6x25 bolts to substitute.

The part number for the aluminum bolts: 07119904954

Originally Posted by vasillalov

That makes me think that seafoam really does not work well at all...

I know Quite a bummer. I really wonder if meth makes a difference either.

[Transport3r]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Haha I did have one on for 10,000 miles but never had a drop of oil in it so I took it out.

So, OCC's aren't worth it for our engines?
Been stumbling on a couple of threads lately where people have OCC's that don't catch anything.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by joshuo

So, OCC's aren't worth it for our engines?
Been stumbling on a couple of threads lately where people have OCC's that don't catch anything.

Some people have catch cans that pull out a LOT of oil. I'm just not one of them

[Transport3r]

What does that depend on?
Stiffness of the PCV valve?

[BrianMN]

V

Originally Posted by joshuo

What does that depend on?
Stiffness of the PCV valve?

I wish I knew! I would love to have a catch can to keep the charge tract and intake valves cleaner, but i Just haven't had Good luck with it. The first occ I used was left over from a previous car, didn't produce anything. Next tried the Riss Racing occ. Still no oil caught. The hoses were moist with oil, but no quantifiable amount. I assume you saw my charge pipe with the oil in it? That sucks. ..I don't even want to know What my intercooler looks like. If there was a significantly better setup out there I would try it again...but I don't like the design of taking a 5' x 5/8"id hose and lengthening it by 4 feet going down to 3/8id. The BSH can looks good with larger And shorter hoses...I just don't have much hope: ( haha

[kenneth]

I am running a McKinney OCC mounted on the driver side up front. Lots of oil.

[Joshboody]

about the OCC... this is the only place the oil can go. Are you saying that the oil is slipping past the catch can. Maybe the oil for some designs is staying in the piping and not making it to the can... still better than the intake system though. I have the BSH and have noticed no oil for maybe 2 months now... but some cars separators probably work better.

I'm sure if you cleaned your charge piping oil is still coating it from the IC. If you can clean or change your IC then you can start from scratch and really check the OCC performance. I'm very curious about this also.

When you seafoamed multiple times, did the white smoke decrease each time? I did it once and not much smoke... i'm going to try again.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Joshboody

about the OCC... this is the only place the oil can go. Are you saying that the oil is slipping past the catch can. Maybe the oil for some designs is staying in the piping and not making it to the can... still better than the intake system though. I have the BSH and have noticed no oil for maybe 2 months now... but some cars separators probably work better.

I'm sure if you cleaned your charge piping oil is still coating it from the IC. If you can clean or change your IC then you can start from scratch and really check the OCC performance. I'm very curious about this also.

When you seafoamed multiple times, did the white smoke decrease each time? I did it once and not much smoke... i'm going to try again.

Remember what is traveling thru the PCV system is crankcase vapor/oil vapor. Some engines have more oil content pushed thru the PCV system some just dont. Some engines can get away with having an air filter on top of the valve cover and never see evidence of or smell the crankcase vapor. So it takes a well-designed OCC to catch the oil and seperate it. I'm impressed with BSH's internals. My AMS IC definitely has some oil in it.

The amount of smoke never decreased...it was always huge bellowing clouds.

Originally Posted by Nick.CBR

Interesting note on the SeaFoam. How were you running it through the engine? I'm assuming you didn't just put it in the tank...

Most people are pulling the vacuum line going to the DV/BOV, and suck the seafoam directly into the intake manifold. I would suck in a half a bottle, shut it off right before the end of the suckage, let it sit an hour letting the seafoam sit on the manifold, ports and valves. Then suck in the rest of the bottle, let it sit for an hour..then drive it for 50 miles. Then repeat a couple times and then change the oil.

A while ago I called a buddy who did a project on seafoam in college...his variety of tests showed minimal to zero results of it cleaning carbon sediment on valves, pistons and ports. He even had a set of parts soak in seafoam for 3 months and the carbon did not show any signs of softening/breaking up. Bummer

[Xaero]

Thanks for posting this. It makes me feel a little better about replacing this on my own. I am in the same boat. I don't want to spend hours and hours stripping my car down to have the dealer replace the pump. I don't trust other people to work on my cars anyways.

[Transport3r]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

AValves and ports were covered with carbon.. not to the point where I'm too worried, but just enough to be bothersome.

Well since you have the manifold off doing this, might as well take some carb cleaner and a small wire brush to the valves (the ones that are shut) and rotate the crank to open/shut them.
That's what the Audi/Vdub crowd likes to do, except for the hardcore RS4 guys, they just take the heads off every 30k

[import36]

great info Brian! definitely in the same boat as you...and would rather spend a couple hundred bucks doing it myself...vice taking off every single bolt-on for a dealer visit.

[byoung8]

Originally Posted by kenneth

I am running a McKinney OCC mounted on the driver side up front. Lots of oil.

From what I've read also, OCC installed on manuals seem to catch more oil than automatics.

[BrianMN]

Hmmm, I can't see any reason it would be different between transmissions. I think a lot of it has to do with the amount of blow by and the amount of oil floating in the crankcase vapor.

[FVM3]

thanks , maybe i will try on next hpfp

[4.8 E70]

Wow, looks like i'll be changing mine myself also. Thanks for the tips.

Sorry for being off topic, but can someone please tell me what these two cylinders are ?

[Joshboody]

vacuum storage thingys for wastegate actuators

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

OCC and Meth well clean that engine up.

My OCC gets a good amount of oil just after 6000 miles. I hear a lot of people with the BSH complaining its not working. Dont know if you had that or not.

Regardless a lot of them are overpriced.

My riss racing, despite being over-priced does work.

Anyway, thanks for the write up. It seems to be having the right collection of tools and patience will get this job done in no time.

[love2drive]

Brian, great post. Thank you!

Seems like a lot of stories of HPFP replacement included injector replacement as well- as though failing HPFP debris clogs injectors. Have you seen any injector or misfire codes since the fuel pump was replaced? Maybe dealers are just quick to replace injectors despite HPFP being the root cause.

[bryans2k]

Originally Posted by 4.8 E70

Wow, looks like i'll be changing mine myself also. Thanks for the tips.

Sorry for being off topic, but can someone please tell me what these two cylinders are ?

They are part of the boost control system.

[dlbrooks18]

thanks for the post!

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by JPSlick

OCC and Meth well clean that engine up.

Ugh, don't temp me. I've been on the fence about this for a long long time...just don't want to bring my car to 'that level'. 390ish whp is fine for now...especially considering I tune it down to stock boost for track duty anyways. I don't think I NEED the extra power, but it would be fun. who am I kidding, I'll probably go the meth route in the spring. Should be an easy decision but i'm having trouble with it, haha.

I've had an OCC on for 10k miles before, but didn't pull any oil out..

Originally Posted by love2drive

Brian, great post. Thank you!

Seems like a lot of stories of HPFP replacement included injector replacement as well- as though failing HPFP debris clogs injectors. Have you seen any injector or misfire codes since the fuel pump was replaced? Maybe dealers are just quick to replace injectors despite HPFP being the root cause.

I believe you are correct regarding the injectors going out as a result of bad HPFPs, but so far mine are good. No codes, misfires or any syptoms of bad coils/plugs/injectors. Injectors and coils are something I am dreading..hopefully Bav Tech can get the injector coding into their system soon!

Originally Posted by dlbrooks18

thanks for the post!

No worries! Glad to help people feel comfortable doing this themselves