[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

I can't believe they put a plastic impeller on the coolant pump!

This was a major problem in VW/AUDI 4-banger engines. The plastic impeller cracks and the shaft keeps spinning without any coolant being circulated. The problem was so widespread and so big that VW/AUDI issued a revised coolant pump with metal impeller.

Fortunately for us, the coolant pump is electrical and it is not driven by the timing belt, like it is in most engines. In the VW/AUDI 4-bangers, a crappy plastic coolant pump was the primary reason for premature timing belt failure and often head damage..

Samething on E36. Not sure who thought hot fluid works well with plastic, right?

[TireFire]

My E36 328 trashed the water pump at around 80k miles (the first time i ran it hard when i bought it). Hope my 335 water pump lasts longer.

[ar design]

Mine failed. Such a pain.

I've got a used one in great shape in stock here if anyone needs one

[clairvoyant]

At what mileage range does it typically fail? Or is this one those crapshoots...

Originally Posted by ar design

Mine failed. Such a pain.

I've got a used one in great shape in stock here if anyone needs one

[import36]

Originally Posted by clairvoyant

At what mileage range does it typically fail? Or is this one those crapshoots...

its a crapshoot. mine failed a few months ago with only 17k miles on the car....while others have made it to 60k and beyond.

[bv1]

Mine at 80K km's. Replaced it myself and it wasn't fun.

[ar design]

Total crapshoot

[Juiced46]

Believe it or not warranty time pays less then 2hrs for this repair with diagnosis. Like said, should take you around an hour, not 8! There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to remove the front end or intercooler to replace the pump. Everything is done from underneath once the shields are removed. Pump comes right out the bottom by the frint sway, tstat has to come out first. If you cannot access the clamps the way they are positioned (they are all positioned the same from the factory), then you are using the incorrect tools.

Im just saying this for the ill knowledged people that may want to to this as a DIY there is no reason to remove the front end, period. For a first timer with mechanical skills 3hrs max, but should only take you 1 if you are semi experienced.

[clairvoyant]

Is this dealer price realistic? (see the attached file).

Originally Posted by Juiced46

Believe it or not warranty time pays less then 2hrs for this repair with diagnosis. Like said, should take you around an hour, not 8! There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to remove the front end or intercooler to replace the pump. Everything is done from underneath once the shields are removed. Pump comes right out the bottom by the frint sway, tstat has to come out first. If you cannot access the clamps the way they are positioned (they are all positioned the same from the factory), then you are using the incorrect tools.

Im just saying this for the ill knowledged people that may want to to this as a DIY there is no reason to remove the front end, period. For a first timer with mechanical skills 3hrs max, but should only take you 1 if you are semi experienced.

[Juiced46]

Yes, very realistic. Priceon the clutch possibly a little low but close.

[vasillalov]

This is one of the many reasons why I love my P3 Gauge! I normally set it to display coolant temperature. If the coolant temps start going too high, I'll notice it way before the ECU decides to throw a CEL...

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

This is one of the many reasons why I love my P3 Gauge! I normally set it to display coolant temperature. If the coolant temps start going too high, I'll notice it way before the ECU decides to throw a CEL...

Water pump failure, is a sudden occurrence. If you have over 60K miles, then it's Russian roulette. You should just change this, along with the thermostat or risk getting stranded on the road.

[cn555ic]

Mine craped out at 7500 miles. Crapshoot for sure

[runz12s]

I had no idea how common this was, mine went two weeks ago at 63k, CPO'd ftw �

[Bash]

When mine started to go turbos wouldn't boost normally, sometimes they did and sometimes not, scanned it and it turned out to be some water pump code, live logged it with BT and it showed fluctuation.
Had the pump + thermo replaced in 90 minutes by a mechanic friend, all done from below.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by clairvoyant

Is this dealer price realistic? (see the attached file).

JESUS!! Now I know what it's like to get raped without lube! Those prices are insanely high!! You can get much better aftermarket or oem components for MUCH MUCH less! Then take it to your local indy shop which can do the work in 1/2 the time, and 1/2 the Stealership labour. Good God young man, stop going to the dealership!

[malave53]

Originally Posted by Bash

When mine started to go turbos wouldn't boost normally, sometimes they did and sometimes not, scanned it and it turned out to be some water pump code, live logged it with BT and it showed fluctuation.
Had the pump + thermo replaced in 90 minutes by a mechanic friend, all done from below.

If you don't mind sharing, what codes? I pulled codes 2e81 & 2e82. Same problem with boost with JB4 on map 0. I'll make full power in first gear, but maybe a pound or two in all other gears.

Got the initial yellow overheating on dash, luckily as I pulled in the garage, cleared codes, and now just 2e82 is present, water pump "over current". Can't clear it, however can't get the car to overheat again, but can't get it out of limp mode. (haven't been driving it, just idle).

Heater blows hot air, but won't churn out full blast. Wish there was a way to tell for sure the thermo was
bad too, no sense in replacing the thermo if it's functioning properly.

[Juiced46]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

JESUS!! Now I know what it's like to get raped without lube! Those prices are insanely high!! You can get much better aftermarket or oem components for MUCH MUCH less! Then take it to your local indy shop which can do the work in 1/2 the time, and 1/2 the Stealership labour. Good God young man, stop going to the dealership!

These prices are normal. This isnt a Honda Civic. You have to remember, 75-80% of the cost on the price list is the parts. Its not the dealerships fault the prices are so high, the parts manufacturer determines the cost. Those prices are very reasonable. A clutch parts and labor installed for $1000 is actually a good deal. Rotors are like 150-200 a piece and pads are around $100+ just for parts alone. The waterpump is also a good price, that piece is about $500 plus labor.

[99three]

I think someone should post up a DIY.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by malave53

If you don't mind sharing, what codes? I pulled codes 2e81 & 2e82. Same problem with boost with JB4 on map 0. I'll make full power in first gear, but maybe a pound or two in all other gears.

Got the initial yellow overheating on dash, luckily as I pulled in the garage, cleared codes, and now just 2e82 is present, water pump "over current". Can't clear it, however can't get the car to overheat again, but can't get it out of limp mode. (haven't been driving it, just idle).

Heater blows hot air, but won't churn out full blast. Wish there was a way to tell for sure the thermo was
bad too, no sense in replacing the thermo if it's functioning properly.

Don't remember the codes, but any code with the word water pump that means it's either dead or dying, mine didn't overheat and no check engine or ses but didn't boost all the time.
The pump normally goes I change the thermo just in case. They cost me 700$ with labor. I'm in Beirut though parts are expensive and labour is stupid cheap.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by malave53

If you don't mind sharing, what codes? I pulled codes 2e81 & 2e82. Same problem with boost with JB4 on map 0. I'll make full power in first gear, but maybe a pound or two in all other gears.

Got the initial yellow overheating on dash, luckily as I pulled in the garage, cleared codes, and now just 2e82 is present, water pump "over current". Can't clear it, however can't get the car to overheat again, but can't get it out of limp mode. (haven't been driving it, just idle).

Heater blows hot air, but won't churn out full blast. Wish there was a way to tell for sure the thermo was
bad too, no sense in replacing the thermo if it's functioning properly.

Mine was 2e81, and I think 2e84. Don't really remember the exact numbers cuz, I just read it, and cleared them, but they were:

1. Electric water pump speed deviation
2. Electric water pump shut down.

My advise is replace both your water pump and thermostat, or make sure you have BMW roadside assistance. Oh, and your JB4, flogging your water pump isn't going to help it's longevity either.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Juiced46

These prices are normal. This isnt a Honda Civic. You have to remember, 75-80% of the cost on the price list is the parts. Its not the dealerships fault the prices are so high, the parts manufacturer determines the cost. Those prices are very reasonable. A clutch parts and labor installed for $1000 is actually a good deal. Rotors are like 150-200 a piece and pads are around $100+ just for parts alone. The waterpump is also a good price, that piece is about $500 plus labor.

Dude, shopping online for ANY of those parts, reveals at least a 40% difference. And that's with shipping to your home. Rotors for 150-200 a piece? I paid like $80 for my Zimmermans, which have done numerous track events, and put the OEM's you want to pay $150 for, to shame.