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      12-30-2010, 04:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzenno View Post
Just after I posted that I was still waiting on my shipment to arrive CanadaPost driver knocked on my door and delivered Them (yes with a capital T)

Pics to follow...they look absolutely SICK!
awesome!! post pics
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      12-30-2010, 04:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzenno View Post
Just after I posted that I was still waiting on my shipment to arrive CanadaPost driver knocked on my door and delivered Them (yes with a capital T)

Pics to follow...they look absolutely SICK!
who is installing them?
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      12-31-2010, 03:41 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Penn999 View Post
^ Good explanation. I believe that this is the best turbo setup available on the market. I look forward to seeing more numbers as I know dzenno will be pushing every little ounce out of these turbos.
I agree. Yet the other turbo upgrade threads go 10 pages long. Rob's hard work definitely paid off. The waist gates being completely manufactured and re-engineered from scratch is a huge selling point. I guess when the numbers come out they will get more attention.
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      12-31-2010, 04:36 AM   #26
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How does one contact the eponymous 'RB' with enquiries about availability and shipped pricing ?
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      12-31-2010, 04:53 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slidewayz View Post
How does one contact the eponymous 'RB' with enquiries about availability and shipped pricing ?
I dont think he is a vendor on here. The ordering post for his turbos is on N54tech.com as far as I know.
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      12-31-2010, 05:31 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by packinDSS View Post
I dont think he is a vendor on here. The ordering post for his turbos is on N54tech.com as far as I know.
Yeah he isn't a vendor so I don't know how much info we can post. Don't want to get Rob in trouble. They are selling right now for $2899. First sets are reaching customers, they have been impressed by quality. There is an original set that has been testing for a while now.
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      12-31-2010, 05:32 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slidewayz View Post
How does one contact the eponymous 'RB' with enquiries about availability and shipped pricing ?
Hi there,

His email is rob.rbturbo@gmail.com.
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      12-31-2010, 05:37 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penn999 View Post
What flash makes 17.5psi?

EDIT: I see it in your sig. never heard of it, can you explain more
The tuning is being done by a outfit in South Africa. Its a bit of a one man show who has been doing chip tuning since 1993. I had the pleasure to work with him during 1999-2000 where I saw some amazing things which included doing factory work for VW South Africa and tuning the BMW Works Group N cars for two seasons.
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      12-31-2010, 05:50 AM   #31
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Quick update. We have tuned to 18.85psi with the meth turned on using a CM10 at the nozzle. At the moment we running very conservative timing just to see what will happen with the fueling. The car can maintain its own fueling at this point but octane is a must at this boost level as the Dynamic Compression becomes very high. We loaded the car on a few runs with knock being evident therefore the meth as a minimum is a must. The turbos seem to be flowing exponentially better now as there is a larger power increase as was expected on this boost jump.

Please note that these are my finding and in no way should be used as a guide on how to tune the car and what fuel can be used at what boost level.
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      12-31-2010, 06:06 AM   #32
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Enrita If we were to compare your stage2 TD to RB turbos are they simillar do the TD have billet compressorwheel?
The fist one I found out myself the Rb are better priced

Ps I´m jealous too
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      12-31-2010, 06:27 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeSmooth View Post
Quick update. We have tuned to 18.85psi with the meth turned on using a CM10 at the nozzle. At the moment we running very conservative timing just to see what will happen with the fueling. The car can maintain its own fueling at this point but octane is a must at this boost level as the Dynamic Compression becomes very high. We loaded the car on a few runs with knock being evident therefore the meth as a minimum is a must. The turbos seem to be flowing exponentially better now as there is a larger power increase as was expected on this boost jump.

Please note that these are my finding and in no way should be used as a guide on how to tune the car and what fuel can be used at what boost level.
It would be nice to see boost vs. rpm when you have found a setting that you are happy with for daily driving.
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      12-31-2010, 07:06 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aridk View Post
Enrita If we were to compare your stage2 TD to RB turbos are they simillar do the TD have billet compressorwheel?
The fist one I found out myself the Rb are better priced

Ps I´m jealous too
as far as i know the turbos are the same on turbine and compressor wheel sizes but the TD lacks the complete billet wastegates even though they fixed the wastegates so they should not be giving any problems. Another negative point on the tds is that you need to redo the oil and water lines which costed me a fortune to do and its quite complicated due to limited space. Get the RB!
The TD stage 2 are TD04L-15T
TURBINE: TD04L ..... 46.8 x 41.2mm
COMPRESSOR: 15T is 42.00 mm ~ 56.2 trim

i also used an online calculator for the Dynamic compression ration but have no clue exactly what all this means :-)

Static compression ratio of 10.2:1.
Effective stroke is 3.31 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 10.21:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 217.33 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 19 PSI is 23.41 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 92
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Last edited by enrita; 12-31-2010 at 09:09 AM..
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      12-31-2010, 09:18 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
as far as i know the turbos are the same on turbine and compressor wheel sizes but the TD lacks the complete billet wastegates even though they fixed the wastegates so they should not be giving any problems. Another negative point on the tds is that you need to redo the oil and water lines which costed me a fortune to do and its quite complicated due to limited space. Get the RB!
The TD stage 2 are TD04L-15T
TURBINE: TD04L ..... 46.8 x 41.2mm
COMPRESSOR: 15T is 42.00 mm ~ 56.2 trim

i also used an online calculator for the Dynamic compression ration but have no clue exactly what all this means :-)

Static compression ratio of 10.2:1.
Effective stroke is 3.31 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 10.21:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 217.33 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 19 PSI is 23.41 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 92
I want to pull the trigger on these sooo bad. I just need a clutchmasters clutch, lsd(in the mail) and bilstein b16's(to control that power), and coolingmist stage 3. Do you think I NEED m3 chassis bits b4 this upgrade or do you think im ok for a little while?
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      12-31-2010, 09:47 AM   #36
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we should stay on topic ..... i am already off as well. This is George thread on his upgrade.
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      12-31-2010, 09:50 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
as far as i know the turbos are the same on turbine and compressor wheel sizes but the TD lacks the complete billet wastegates even though they fixed the wastegates so they should not be giving any problems. Another negative point on the tds is that you need to redo the oil and water lines which costed me a fortune to do and its quite complicated due to limited space. Get the RB!
The TD stage 2 are TD04L-15T
TURBINE: TD04L ..... 46.8 x 41.2mm
COMPRESSOR: 15T is 42.00 mm ~ 56.2 trim

i also used an online calculator for the Dynamic compression ration but have no clue exactly what all this means :-)

Static compression ratio of 10.2:1.
Effective stroke is 3.31 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 10.21:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 217.33 PSI.
Your dynamic boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 19 PSI is 23.41 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 92
Based on the CR of 10.2, they probably assumes that 19 PSi (1.3 Bar) adds 10.2*1.3 to 10.2, which yields the equivalent CR of 23.4:1. This value don't mean much though since a lot of other factors comes into play.
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      12-31-2010, 09:51 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpsimon View Post
awesome!! post pics
I have some crappy iPhone pics but I'll get better pics after work today for you guys...
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      12-31-2010, 09:52 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turkish335 View Post
who is installing them?
Not sure yet, getting pricing, shops are VERY slow at this time..
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      12-31-2010, 09:53 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
we should stay on topic ..... i am already off as well. This is George thread on his upgrade.
I think that this is getting rediculous, should I start a new thread for every damn question I have? My previous comment is about RB and what you should adequately do in preparation to all of the extra power. Something very few people here do, I am a proactive buyer!
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      12-31-2010, 10:36 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penn999 View Post
I think that this is getting rediculous, should I start a new thread for every damn question I have? My previous comment is about RB and what you should adequately do in preparation to all of the extra power. Something very few people here do, I am a proactive buyer!
no new thread but you can Search Do the front brakes with a BBK first . M3 chassi bits are very useful if you like to track your car.
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      12-31-2010, 10:45 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
M3 chassi bits are very useful if you like to track your car.
For front m3 bits I agree, track (auto-x) only items, but the rear is a must in my opinion especially at the power levels you're going for...specifically rear toe arms and subframe bushings...main reason for this is to have you put the power to the ground better and minimize/eliminate side-to-side action on launch/WOT in lower gears especially...requires alignment too...

Penn, there are a few threads on this that explain these well in depth
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      12-31-2010, 11:36 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzenno View Post
For front m3 bits I agree, track (auto-x) only items, but the rear is a must in my opinion especially at the power levels you're going for...specifically rear toe arms and subframe bushings...main reason for this is to have you put the power to the ground better and minimize/eliminate side-to-side action on launch/WOT in lower gears especially...requires alignment too...

Penn, there are a few threads on this that explain these well in depth
I have viewed those, none of which took in the fact that RB's have the ability to produce 500whp, which is more than any set is making right now(to my knowledge). So i would argue your comment to Search. I have questions per specific parts, I know what theory is. I thought I was pretty specific in my question, perhaps I will make that a little more evident next time.
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      12-31-2010, 12:32 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
as far as i know the turbos are the same on turbine and compressor wheel sizes but the TD lacks the complete billet wastegates even though they fixed the wastegates so they should not be giving any problems. Another negative point on the tds is that you need to redo the oil and water lines which costed me a fortune to do and its quite complicated due to limited space. Get the RB!
I believe technically or performance-wise both are very similar. Rob Beck has invested more research time in his upgrade and therefore was able to (i) fix the wastegates even better and (ii) retain the stock oil and water lines. Concerning the latter, however, there is no need to design these lines yourself, as they can also be acquired separately for a reasonable price, I believe. Still, at least for people in the US, I would also agree that the RB turbos are the best option out there.

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