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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Front-end "popping" noise



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      06-26-2011, 12:21 PM   #23
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I have some popping too but I think mine is from the right rear. Any ideas?
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      06-26-2011, 02:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wren57 View Post
I have some popping too but I think mine is from the right rear. Any ideas?

if it's in the rear, there is a good chance that either the top nut or bottom nut on the shock is loose.
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      06-26-2011, 03:05 PM   #25
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Unfortunately, I have to join this thread too as I am experiencing the same symptom but it appears to have gotten progressively worse in the last several days.

Several month back, I would hear the "clunk,metal jiggle,popping" sound only when the road had an uncommon washboarded surface. The sound appears to come from directly behind the nav screen where the large vent is so at first, I thought it was some internal component that was loose with the stiffer ride. However, its just gotten worse and worse and I now hear it when I turn the wheel or hit larger bumps in the road. Turning the wheel at a standstill should not cause any internal component to make noise and I probably hear it at that vent because it's the only non-insulated part of the dash.

I am thinking it may have to do with where the strut bars connect? I am about to run out to the garage, lift and check all front-end links and pull of cowling. I will report back if I seem to find the issue. It may be the washer as others have experienced but if so, I am confused as to why it's gotten progressively worse.. I will report back when I find the issue.
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      06-26-2011, 05:46 PM   #26
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also make sure you check the top nut on the strut shaft. If the strut mounts were snug going on, it is not uncommon for them to slide down a bit on the shaft after a few days/weeks. if there is any bit of play, they will make noise as the shaft moves up and down.

You need to tighten that nut down while the weight of the car is compressing the springs, to make sure there isn't any play. so you will need to remove the strut brace. if you jack up the front end, the springs will push the strut down (eliminating the slack) and make it appear to be tight when it isn't.
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      06-26-2011, 09:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f00dstamps View Post
I am getting noise from my front suspension also. I have the AST 4100's with Swift springs. I get the noise when I am traveling at a slow speed (<25mph). Most of you seem to be reporting this occurrence when you are turning but I also get the noise when I am going straight and slow.
My front passenger side adjuster nut had stripped threads and the orange colored knob was hitting the stock strut bar - There is a total of about 1/4inches between the top of that knob and the strut bar under the weight of the car. It appears that due to the spring perch being of rubber, it flexes a bit from when the suspension is extended and when it is holding the full weight. Thus, making it too close and eventually hitting under abrupt compression. The bottom of the strut bar was clearly getting hit by this knob as I could see the scuff marks and the passenger side adjuster is now defective. I plan to order the M3 strut bar and that will eliminate the issue so I can re-install the top adjuster nut.

I removed both sides as a process of elimination to see if the sound went away and I'm pretty sure that 60% was gone my removing the top adjuster and knob.

I think Mike-y makes a really good point so I will check that tomorrow. I checked the tension links and everything else seemed fine. The stock strut bar is not causing the issue but the noise was clearly traveling through it. It may be the slightest play on top of the damper - Either from the washer or the top nut not being snug all the way.
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      06-27-2011, 12:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f00dstamps View Post
I am getting noise from my front suspension also. I have the AST 4100's with Swift springs. I get the noise when I am traveling at a slow speed (<25mph). Most of you seem to be reporting this occurrence when you are turning but I also get the noise when I am going straight and slow.
I fixed my problem. There is a collar on my coilover that connects to the endlinks. It was loose on the passenger side. After I tightened it, the noise went away.
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      06-27-2011, 12:37 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specE30Dude View Post
My front passenger side adjuster nut had stripped threads and the orange colored knob was hitting the stock strut bar - There is a total of about 1/4inches between the top of that knob and the strut bar under the weight of the car. It appears that due to the spring perch being of rubber, it flexes a bit from when the suspension is extended and when it is holding the full weight. Thus, making it too close and eventually hitting under abrupt compression. The bottom of the strut bar was clearly getting hit by this knob as I could see the scuff marks and the passenger side adjuster is now defective. I plan to order the M3 strut bar and that will eliminate the issue so I can re-install the top adjuster nut.

I removed both sides as a process of elimination to see if the sound went away and I'm pretty sure that 60% was gone my removing the top adjuster and knob.

I think Mike-y makes a really good point so I will check that tomorrow. I checked the tension links and everything else seemed fine. The stock strut bar is not causing the issue but the noise was clearly traveling through it. It may be the slightest play on top of the damper - Either from the washer or the top nut not being snug all the way.
I solved my problem with a description in the previous post. I will keep an eye on the adjuster knob to make sure it is not hitting the strut bar. I drive on fairly bumpy roads on my daily commute and I went autocrossing recently and I don't think I encountered a problem with the strut bar.
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      06-27-2011, 11:16 PM   #30
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Think it would be completely insane to take the car to the track in this condition? Road course, not dragstrip. Im thinking it should be fine for now. I really don't feel like, nor have the time, to rip her apart before this Saturday.
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      06-27-2011, 11:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbj View Post
Think it would be completely insane to take the car to the track in this condition? Road course, not dragstrip. Im thinking it should be fine for now. I really don't feel like, nor have the time, to rip her apart before this Saturday.
I don't know all the circumstances but if it were my car and I noticed the problem beforehand, I would not go racing until the problem was resolved.
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      06-27-2011, 11:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f00dstamps View Post
I don't know all the circumstances but if it were my car and I noticed the problem beforehand, I would not go racing until the problem was resolved.
Well, I've tracked the car several times before all with the same suspension. It is only now that I've noticed the popping... Only after reading this thread strangely enough. It was quiet for roughly one full year prior. It makes me wonder if there's something else going on. I will lift it and see if there's a loose nut or something. If not, and I think it's just that washer, I'll probably wait until after the event when I have more time to rip out the front suspension.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumperx View Post
I'm going in this weekend.
Any news?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychorugby View Post
I am happy to report that switching the orientation of the washer fixed my problem. The flat side of the washer faces down. I'm never going to forget that now that I have torn the front end of my car apart six times. We have it down to a 5 minute science now though.
Is there a lot of exaggeration here? I probably need to switch my washer too but I can't imagine it taking less than a couple hours. What am I missing?
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      06-28-2011, 03:07 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbj View Post
Any news?
Hey Dan,
It's been awhile. Yeah, I went back to my install guy, and he thinks it's the control arm bushing which may have gone bad. It doesn't really matter because I'm planning to have M3 front end bits placed on to the car. So he plans to disassemble the whole strut assemblies and check for fitment and re-torque bolts to specs.

Glad to read that you're still trackin'.

Last edited by Thumperx; 06-28-2011 at 03:26 PM..
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      06-28-2011, 09:36 AM   #34
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Great!!

Was there any damage to your washer?? I asking so I will know if I need to buy a new one before going to the shop again.

I know you are glad to be rid of that noise....it's like having a Audiable Dent on your fine Machine.


I don't street race but an Audi S5 was dum enough to take it to the autobahn with me. It was a sad day....as I buried 165 mph and zoomed on by him :-).

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      06-30-2011, 03:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumperx View Post
Hey Dan,
It's been awhile. Yeah, I went back to my install guy, and he thinks it's the control arm bushing which may have gone bad. It doesn't really matter because I'm planning to have M3 front end bits placed on to the car. So he plans to disassemble the whole strut assemblies and check for fitment and re-torque bolts to specs.

Glad to read that you're still trackin'.
Well, maybe this becomes my excuse for some M3 upgrades!
Hope to see you out there soon.

Here's the suspension from Bentley and realoem...
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      06-30-2011, 03:26 PM   #36
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This comment was taken from another thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by skim7x View Post
Correct... I had this same problem too... I took the coilover assembly apart, and it turned out that one of the washers was installed upside down. The 2 pieces of the top hat are supposed to swivel against each other, and they are separated by 2 concave washers that allow them to do this. If one of the washers (or both) are upside down, they will not swivel correctly, causing your spring to torque and create a popping noise. They should only touch each other on a single point... like this:

)( <-- turn 90 degrees, though... you get the point

as opposed to these other positions: )) (( () <--These will not swivel correctly
So, I opened one side. Looking at my suspension, it appears to have been installed correctly. So, any ideas? Am I looking at this wrong? I'm going to add some grease and check the other side but so far, washer installation is not my problem. Any other thoughts?





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      07-01-2011, 09:11 PM   #37
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Well, somanabitch...

Ya know, often this forum offers a tremendous amount of support and guidance. Then sometimes, it sends you off on a wild goose chase. It was the latter for me on this issue.

I tore apart the front suspension thinking it was the spacer issue. The only part that didn't make sense was the fact that it just recently started making noise. I should have thought about it more. Instead of a popping noise after a suspension install, it was more of a metal on metal creaking which started 1000's of miles after installation.

In the end, I found the culprit. It had nothing to do with the suspension. After I put the car back together, I sat and pondered what else could it be. I tried very hard to determine where the sound was coming from but with the car on, it's very hard to hear.

The final clue for me was that the sound didn't require the car to move. I checked both bolts supporting the steering rack. One didn't budge. The other, although very snug, was not fully tightened. One turn later and the damn creaking/popping went away! I must have slowly loosened over time.

Here's what I recommend...

If you have ever removed or loosened the steering rack bolts (usually done when swapping downpipes), check that first. It'll save you a ton of time and work!

Here's a picture of the bolt I'm talking about.
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      07-01-2011, 11:53 PM   #38
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Excellent work Dan. I would like to say, "yeah I thought of that too", but I can not. I will point this finding out with my installer next Thursday. It goes in for M3 front bits, rear Velocity all three linkage swap, and rear sub frame bushings install.

Dan, Hope to see you at Thunder Hill in August or Infineon in September. Let's keep in touch Bro!
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      07-02-2011, 12:13 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumperx View Post
Excellent work Dan. I would like to say, "yeah I thought of that too", but I can not. I will point this finding out with my installer next Thursday. It goes in for M3 front bits, rear Velocity all three linkage swap, and rear sub frame bushings install.

Dan, Hope to see you at Thunder Hill in August or Infineon in September. Let's keep in touch Bro!
Anthony,

I wish you did think of it and told me before I opened her up!

Yes, I fully plan on more events this year. Lets try NCracing.org next time.
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      07-03-2011, 11:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbj View Post
Anthony,

I wish you did think of it and told me before I opened her up!

Yes, I fully plan on more events this year. Lets try NCracing.org next time.
Hahahaha, I'll let you now what I found out next week.

I've a few friends who have expressed interest of participating at either Thunder Hill or Infineon events, so I will keep in touch with you.
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      07-04-2011, 06:15 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbj View Post





Capital Craaap. I installed that washer upside down (dome side up) when I installed my performance dampers. So far no noise or issues. Could this be a major problem later?

Strangest thing is, that same top washer was non existent when I took out the stock sport dampers. There was only the bottom spacer /washer. Strange.
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      07-04-2011, 05:11 PM   #42
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well, that top washer is thin and soft, so it probably just deforms if it's installed upside down. it's really a dust cap and nothing more, so I think you are ok.

the bottom washer with the stripe is the important one. it's much thicker, and will cause binding if installed upside down.
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      07-04-2011, 05:30 PM   #43
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cool. Sounds about right.
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      07-04-2011, 10:03 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-y View Post
well, that top washer is thin and soft, so it probably just deforms if it's installed upside down. it's really a dust cap and nothing more, so I think you are ok.

the bottom washer with the stripe is the important one. it's much thicker, and will cause binding if installed upside down.
Seeing it firsthand, I agree.
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