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Front-end "popping" noise
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06-26-2011, 12:21 PM | #23 |
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I have some popping too but I think mine is from the right rear. Any ideas?
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Fix your broken/stripped cowl bolts with this elegant brass solution!
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06-26-2011, 02:41 PM | #24 |
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06-26-2011, 03:05 PM | #25 |
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Unfortunately, I have to join this thread too as I am experiencing the same symptom but it appears to have gotten progressively worse in the last several days.
Several month back, I would hear the "clunk,metal jiggle,popping" sound only when the road had an uncommon washboarded surface. The sound appears to come from directly behind the nav screen where the large vent is so at first, I thought it was some internal component that was loose with the stiffer ride. However, its just gotten worse and worse and I now hear it when I turn the wheel or hit larger bumps in the road. Turning the wheel at a standstill should not cause any internal component to make noise and I probably hear it at that vent because it's the only non-insulated part of the dash. I am thinking it may have to do with where the strut bars connect? I am about to run out to the garage, lift and check all front-end links and pull of cowling. I will report back if I seem to find the issue. It may be the washer as others have experienced but if so, I am confused as to why it's gotten progressively worse.. I will report back when I find the issue.
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'10 335D - 450/800 Swift Springs, AST Dampers, M3 bushings, VAC/Burger Tuning Modules, Advan RS 18's
'92 E30 - 325is Spec race car '04 GX470 - Custom coil suspension with adjustable fronts, Eibach springs, Radflo dampers '78 FJ-40 - Currently restoring |
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06-26-2011, 05:46 PM | #26 |
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also make sure you check the top nut on the strut shaft. If the strut mounts were snug going on, it is not uncommon for them to slide down a bit on the shaft after a few days/weeks. if there is any bit of play, they will make noise as the shaft moves up and down.
You need to tighten that nut down while the weight of the car is compressing the springs, to make sure there isn't any play. so you will need to remove the strut brace. if you jack up the front end, the springs will push the strut down (eliminating the slack) and make it appear to be tight when it isn't. |
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06-26-2011, 09:51 PM | #27 | |
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I removed both sides as a process of elimination to see if the sound went away and I'm pretty sure that 60% was gone my removing the top adjuster and knob. I think Mike-y makes a really good point so I will check that tomorrow. I checked the tension links and everything else seemed fine. The stock strut bar is not causing the issue but the noise was clearly traveling through it. It may be the slightest play on top of the damper - Either from the washer or the top nut not being snug all the way.
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'10 335D - 450/800 Swift Springs, AST Dampers, M3 bushings, VAC/Burger Tuning Modules, Advan RS 18's
'92 E30 - 325is Spec race car '04 GX470 - Custom coil suspension with adjustable fronts, Eibach springs, Radflo dampers '78 FJ-40 - Currently restoring |
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06-27-2011, 12:32 AM | #28 | |
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06-27-2011, 12:37 AM | #29 | |
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06-27-2011, 11:16 PM | #30 |
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Think it would be completely insane to take the car to the track in this condition? Road course, not dragstrip. Im thinking it should be fine for now. I really don't feel like, nor have the time, to rip her apart before this Saturday.
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06-27-2011, 11:22 PM | #31 |
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I don't know all the circumstances but if it were my car and I noticed the problem beforehand, I would not go racing until the problem was resolved.
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06-27-2011, 11:31 PM | #32 | ||
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Any news? Quote:
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06-28-2011, 03:07 AM | #33 |
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Hey Dan,
It's been awhile. Yeah, I went back to my install guy, and he thinks it's the control arm bushing which may have gone bad. It doesn't really matter because I'm planning to have M3 front end bits placed on to the car. So he plans to disassemble the whole strut assemblies and check for fitment and re-torque bolts to specs. Glad to read that you're still trackin'. Last edited by Thumperx; 06-28-2011 at 03:26 PM.. |
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06-28-2011, 09:36 AM | #34 |
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Great!!
Was there any damage to your washer?? I asking so I will know if I need to buy a new one before going to the shop again.
I know you are glad to be rid of that noise....it's like having a Audiable Dent on your fine Machine. I don't street race but an Audi S5 was dum enough to take it to the autobahn with me. It was a sad day....as I buried 165 mph and zoomed on by him :-). |
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06-30-2011, 03:23 PM | #35 | |
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Hope to see you out there soon. Here's the suspension from Bentley and realoem... |
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06-30-2011, 03:26 PM | #36 | |
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This comment was taken from another thread:
Quote:
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07-01-2011, 09:11 PM | #37 |
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Well, somanabitch...
Ya know, often this forum offers a tremendous amount of support and guidance. Then sometimes, it sends you off on a wild goose chase. It was the latter for me on this issue. I tore apart the front suspension thinking it was the spacer issue. The only part that didn't make sense was the fact that it just recently started making noise. I should have thought about it more. Instead of a popping noise after a suspension install, it was more of a metal on metal creaking which started 1000's of miles after installation. In the end, I found the culprit. It had nothing to do with the suspension. After I put the car back together, I sat and pondered what else could it be. I tried very hard to determine where the sound was coming from but with the car on, it's very hard to hear. The final clue for me was that the sound didn't require the car to move. I checked both bolts supporting the steering rack. One didn't budge. The other, although very snug, was not fully tightened. One turn later and the damn creaking/popping went away! I must have slowly loosened over time. Here's what I recommend... If you have ever removed or loosened the steering rack bolts (usually done when swapping downpipes), check that first. It'll save you a ton of time and work! Here's a picture of the bolt I'm talking about. |
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07-01-2011, 11:53 PM | #38 |
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Excellent work Dan. I would like to say, "yeah I thought of that too", but I can not. I will point this finding out with my installer next Thursday. It goes in for M3 front bits, rear Velocity all three linkage swap, and rear sub frame bushings install.
Dan, Hope to see you at Thunder Hill in August or Infineon in September. Let's keep in touch Bro! |
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07-02-2011, 12:13 AM | #39 | |
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I wish you did think of it and told me before I opened her up! Yes, I fully plan on more events this year. Lets try NCracing.org next time. |
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07-03-2011, 11:21 PM | #40 | |
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I've a few friends who have expressed interest of participating at either Thunder Hill or Infineon events, so I will keep in touch with you. |
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07-04-2011, 06:15 AM | #41 |
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Capital Craaap. I installed that washer upside down (dome side up) when I installed my performance dampers. So far no noise or issues. Could this be a major problem later?
Strangest thing is, that same top washer was non existent when I took out the stock sport dampers. There was only the bottom spacer /washer. Strange. |
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07-04-2011, 05:11 PM | #42 |
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well, that top washer is thin and soft, so it probably just deforms if it's installed upside down. it's really a dust cap and nothing more, so I think you are ok.
the bottom washer with the stripe is the important one. it's much thicker, and will cause binding if installed upside down. |
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07-04-2011, 10:03 PM | #44 | |
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