[m1bjr]

My unit is single use btw.
I know I said I would check on the off chance

[335i E92]

Originally Posted by m1bjr

My unit is single use btw.
I know I said I would check on the off chance

Thanks anyway Steve, I'm in the process of ordering one from Neil, bout time I got one anyway.

[Quisp]

I a[pologize but I did not get time to do the resets. Iwill try to get to them monday or tuesday and will pst when i get them done.
Thanks

[335i E92]

Originally Posted by Quisp

I a[pologize but I did not get time to do the resets. Iwill try to get to them monday or tuesday and will pst when i get them done.
Thanks

No worries, let me know how you get on when you've gotten around to it!!

[Quisp]

Was going to do it today but when I started the car I got a very long crank and the half engine light along with reduced power before i could even get out of the garage so I am taking it in tomorrow and wont be able to do the reset until i get it back
Got 2 new error codes 2A9A camshaft sensor and 3100 boost pressure control deactivation

[335i E92]

Originally Posted by Quisp

Was going to do it today but when I started the car I got a very long crank and the half engine light along with reduced power before i could even get out of the garage so I am taking it in tomorrow and wont be able to do the reset until i get it back
Got 2 new error codes 2A9A camshaft sensor and 3100 boost pressure control deactivation

Not good, sounds like the dreaded hpfp. Let me know how you get on!!

[335i E92]

Update...

After covering over 1000 miles since the reset at Darren Woods the idle is stil lrough and jumping from 600 - 750rpms when left to idle for anything more than 30 seconds.

I ordered a BT cable from Neil at Juiced up Tuning earlier this week so should have it next week to try the below Mr5's adaptation resets.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386376

I'll report back as soon i've done it.

[Amin335i]

Hi all. I have recently purchased a 335i and unfortunately having the exact same problem. I was wondering if anyone ever got to the bottom of this. The idles actually looks steady on around 600rpm but you feel random hicups which can otherwise be described as a feeling of small misfires. Shakes the car firmly but not violently enough to make passengers think its a massive problem. Shortly after a few hicups/misfires the car automatically raises the idle to around 750rpm and it stays there. The only way to get rid of it is if I switch the car on/off or sometimes a bit of hard driving does it as well. any solutions besides adaptation resets? I have done adaptation resets via 1. battery disconnection for prolonged period 2.BMW INPA software via OBD 3.JB4 adaptation reset option

[zltm089]

Does anyone know if that reset will wipe out any current "remaps" on the car?....

[335i E92]

Amin, just pm'd you!!

There is seemingly no fix for this common issue. I've tried every adaptation known to man, injectors, coils, plugs, head decarb and have never fixed the problem.

I got an improvement when I replaced all injectors and double checked plug gaps but it still has a slight idle hiccup which will bump up the revs to 750 rpm after a minute or two on idle. I made a decision to live with it and move on many months ago and I suggest you do the same as you'll end up very frustrated and massively out if pocket chasing it!

H

[Amin335i]

Thanks H, I read your pm. Your input is greatly appreciated and I think I am going to take your advice and leave it as it is. Every single parameter looks fine, no codes, no hesitations, power delivery is good. I have also replaced plugs, checked my coils and changed 1 of them which was only a little weaker than the others but I am sure it was most probably fine. I checked my injectors via the BMW INPA software and they are all within spec and running perfectly. I also checked for any injector recalls with BMW. As you mentioned changing the plugs and making sure they are correctly gapped helped smooth it out. If anyone has a permanent logical fix for this I am all for it but until then I think I am done chasing it. Its mentally and financially exhausting chasing this rather minor imperfection.

[GoRomeo]

Is this fix only for 335's? I am planning to change my plugs soon and I wonder if I need to reset anything via BT tool. I wonder if I can use the TORQUE APP for this reset if this applies to me. Anyone??

[KM79]

Another thread revival on this one ,but I take it no one has found a solid cure for this?

[windymissile]

Walnut blasting seems to be the common cure for lumpy idle.

WM

[KM79]

Already been done,only started after changing plugs( genuine parts).All coils and injectors been replaced and programmed a month ago.
I did a walnut and changed the coils/plugs immediately started lumpiness at idle then jacks up to 750rpm.i thought was something I had done so rechecked everything,but all ok.Reset adaptions but still same.Changed all 6 injectors and coded but still same.Folk are saying it's the DME not adapting to new plugs properly.
Kris

[mythek]

besides rough idle or rough cold start, do you guys get misfire in any cylinder?

[windymissile]

Originally Posted by thomin0572

I am new to the BMW platform. A few months ago I bought a 2007 335i. I really enjoy this vehicle. Love how it sounds, drives and so on...

I recently did the spark plug change at 45k. I followed the rules: no anti seize, 17 ft-lb torque...

Yes same result. After driving for a bit and I park or sitting in traffic, the hiccups will begin. After a few hiccups, the gradual rise to 750 rpm happens and stays. It has been driving me nuts! As I definitely did not notice this before the spark plug change.

This thread has given me a bad feeling cause I am not seeing any fix.. But at least I know it is not just me experiencing it! BTW I would hate to spend 750$ on the BT cable and do the resets to see it not resolve the issue! I would like to try this if there is anyone willing to lend a helping hand in the Virginia, Hampton Roads area!

This is the UK side of the site pal.
You need to pop back 'over the pond' and ask in the American Technical section..


WM

[myboris]

A long shot but been reading about "Terraclean" today. Meant to clean carbon deposits, injectors, turbos etc. Around £120 and endorsed by Ed China

[NB_BMW]

Originally Posted by 335i E92

Hi All

Finally after 12 months of investigating my rough idle has been fixed.

After having my plugs changed last year my car instantly developed an idle misfire. The car would idle at 600rpm and after a few idle shakes and shivers would then rise to 750rpm.

I stopped in at Darren Woods yesterday to run a test on my lpfp and hpfp (which were fine and well within spec) these were the final two parts on my check list to try to remedy the rough idle.

Whilst plugged in Mike reset the LVS Values, this is a reset that is to be run after changing plugs or coils. (Adaptation of stratification)

Immediately the car started to idle a lot smoother, apparently it can take 500 – 1000 miles to fully adjust but its night and day already and much smoother on idle and acceleration.

The LVS reset is a new test module that appeared on their GT1 diagnostic kit last week. Woods to the rescue once more!!

Hope this helps anyone out there with same issue.

I remember reading your old posts about this, the same is happening to mine. In fact, the guys I bought it off said that they had recently changed the plugs but since it was idling a bit rough and misfiring I got them changed just in case they were lying about changing them.

I'm getting a OBD diagnostic soon that can do the adaption reset.

Thanks for your info! (I'm not will anyone even see this since it's such an old post) and amazing that there is no solution.

[NRudy]

I had the same issue,

Got a code took it to the dealer they said it was the camshaft sync error.

£3k repair later and its much better. It did do the surge once the day i got it back but never again after that. Car drives like new now. Odd start up gargle but once its on it does everything as it should.

No dealer or jndy was able to definitively say what causes the surge but now i take videos of every start up to try abd compile a trend if what it is.

[iseck1]

After weeks of troubleshooting my rough idle E93 N54 I managed to solve mine. Tried everything discussed on these threads including walnut blasting the intakes, coils, cleaning electrical connectors, etc. and nothing worked. As a last resort I decided to put back the old spark plugs and voila - car runs good as new much to my surprise. Here's what I learned through the process that I thought i'd share with the forum in case it can help others. I had a bit of a rough idle a few weeks ago for which I started with new plugs from Amazon. The plugs were new OEM BMW BOSCH 4 electrode plugs and were exactly the same part number as what was in the car - even the stamping on the side was exactly the same including the "made in germany" part. There was no reason to suspect any issues with these plugs. During the change I also added a catch can and replaced a spark plug heat shield tube on #3 cylinder which had what appeared to be corrosion on it i.e. crusty green deposits. What I later learned is that corrosion is linked to spark arcing through the coil insulator to ground through the spark plug heat shield. Not all BMW's use this heat shield but it appears to be common on Turbo cars - down side to them is that they provide a good ground very close to the coil stem which can allow the spark to jump out. Once it starts the insulator deteriorates and issue gets worse. The corrosion is ionized air on the aluminum sleeve. It also deposits on the coil stem so keep a watch for these and clean (or preferably replace) these coils as needed. I suspect this was the initial reason for my rough idle but by putting in new plugs I managed to move the problem and cause weeks of headaches trying to troubleshoot. Now back to the plugs - after close inspection of the new plugs the only physical difference appears to be the gapping of the 4 electrodes. One or two electrodes on the new plugs appear to be closer to the center pin than the old ones. Remember - these are factory gapped plugs and not intended to be re-gapped by the user. I figured the larger gaps was wear on my old plugs and decided not to address it on the new ones. After about 500Km of horrible idling and lots of troubleshooting I swapped back to the old plugs as a last resort. I examined the new ones and found the ones with the small gaps had burn marks only one side of the porcelain insulator. That a sign that three other electrodes were likely not firing. All that to say - I believe short of an internal issue with the new plug (i.e. manufacturing defect) the root cause is the smaller gap on some electrodes causing an insufficient spark for proper detonation especially on idle. That likely explains why the computer does not detect a fault and why certain conditions like load from the AC compressor or engine/ambient temperature vary the symptoms. Since switching back to the old plugs the car is running perfect. If I find some time I plan to pull the old plugs again and measure the gaps then regap the new plugs somehow to match and try them again. If that works then this will tell for certain the gap is the root cause and not a plug manufacturing defect. Another key lesson here is to pay close attention to the details and part conditions. You could replace all coils, plugs, injectors and hope for the best but in my case that would have addressed the arcing coil issue and not the faulty plug gap. I would have thrown out lots of good parts and money in the process and I hate doing that because you never get to actual root cause and you waste lots of money. If the rough idle returns, I would keep a close eye the coil stems and plug heatshields. If it happened to one, it's likely going to happen to one of the other 5 and it will leave a crusty deposit as a telltale sign. Will also need to be much more careful with spark plugs - I might try NGK's as I'm told some newer BMW's come with those from factory now. Check the gaps! Hope this helps in case you are dealing with the same issues.

[Dann]

Originally Posted by iseck1

After weeks of troubleshooting my rough idle E93 N54 I managed to solve mine. Tried everything discussed on these threads including walnut blasting the intakes, coils, cleaning electrical connectors, etc. and nothing worked. As a last resort I decided to put back the old spark plugs and voila - car runs good as new much to my surprise. Here's what I learned through the process that I thought i'd share with the forum in case it can help others. I had a bit of a rough idle a few weeks ago for which I started with new plugs from Amazon. The plugs were new OEM BMW BOSCH 4 electrode plugs and were exactly the same part number as what was in the car - even the stamping on the side was exactly the same including the "made in germany" part. There was no reason to suspect any issues with these plugs. During the change I also added a catch can and replaced a spark plug heat shield tube on #3 cylinder which had what appeared to be corrosion on it i.e. crusty green deposits. What I later learned is that corrosion is linked to spark arcing through the coil insulator to ground through the spark plug heat shield. Not all BMW's use this heat shield but it appears to be common on Turbo cars - down side to them is that they provide a good ground very close to the coil stem which can allow the spark to jump out. Once it starts the insulator deteriorates and issue gets worse. The corrosion is ionized air on the aluminum sleeve. It also deposits on the coil stem so keep a watch for these and clean (or preferably replace) these coils as needed. I suspect this was the initial reason for my rough idle but by putting in new plugs I managed to move the problem and cause weeks of headaches trying to troubleshoot. Now back to the plugs - after close inspection of the new plugs the only physical difference appears to be the gapping of the 4 electrodes. One or two electrodes on the new plugs appear to be closer to the center pin than the old ones. Remember - these are factory gapped plugs and not intended to be re-gapped by the user. I figured the larger gaps was wear on my old plugs and decided not to address it on the new ones. After about 500Km of horrible idling and lots of troubleshooting I swapped back to the old plugs as a last resort. I examined the new ones and found the ones with the small gaps had burn marks only one side of the porcelain insulator. That a sign that three other electrodes were likely not firing. All that to say - I believe short of an internal issue with the new plug (i.e. manufacturing defect) the root cause is the smaller gap on some electrodes causing an insufficient spark for proper detonation especially on idle. That likely explains why the computer does not detect a fault and why certain conditions like load from the AC compressor or engine/ambient temperature vary the symptoms. Since switching back to the old plugs the car is running perfect. If I find some time I plan to pull the old plugs again and measure the gaps then regap the new plugs somehow to match and try them again. If that works then this will tell for certain the gap is the root cause and not a plug manufacturing defect. Another key lesson here is to pay close attention to the details and part conditions. You could replace all coils, plugs, injectors and hope for the best but in my case that would have addressed the arcing coil issue and not the faulty plug gap. I would have thrown out lots of good parts and money in the process and I hate doing that because you never get to actual root cause and you waste lots of money. If the rough idle returns, I would keep a close eye the coil stems and plug heatshields. If it happened to one, it's likely going to happen to one of the other 5 and it will leave a crusty deposit as a telltale sign. Will also need to be much more careful with spark plugs - I might try NGK's as I'm told some newer BMW's come with those from factory now. Check the gaps! Hope this helps in case you are dealing with the same issues.

No-one is going to read that, far too wordy and long.

Use some paragraphs ffs.