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Change rims yourself? Use a torque wrench?
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09-16-2011, 05:28 PM | #23 |
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I have the BMW jack set and use the torque wrench set to 88 ft lbs, but when I recently swapped my rims they used a gun to tighten them. With the car on the ground should I loosen them 1 by 1 and tighten with the torque wrench? I don't know why no shops use torque wrenches.
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09-16-2011, 08:09 PM | #24 |
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I use these
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09-16-2011, 08:19 PM | #27 |
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i use an al slim
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09-16-2011, 08:21 PM | #28 |
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It's my shop and the best part is it's only 15 minutes from home.
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09-16-2011, 09:55 PM | #30 |
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I use a slim 3 ton racing jack. Great investment. Would love to have a lift like above when I have my own place.
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09-16-2011, 11:48 PM | #31 |
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Have you entered it in any races?
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09-17-2011, 04:36 AM | #32 |
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I have to admit I stopped using jack stands unless I'm getting underneath a car (which still scares the bejeezes outta me to this day).. I just jack up the car with a 3 ton jack and change the wheels. Does anybody over-torque their wheels a little? I've read that when youre screwing metal on metal, it invariably loosens a little bit. Is that loosening negligible?
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09-17-2011, 06:36 AM | #33 |
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LOL
I hand tighten and then drive down the street to a shop and they torque it for free... lol
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09-17-2011, 11:53 AM | #34 | |
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Quote:
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09-17-2011, 12:42 PM | #36 | ||
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Quote:
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09-17-2011, 06:04 PM | #37 |
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ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a torque wrench and a jack stand. I've had my jack fail on me when before, thankfully I had a stand there. It's literally another few seconds to prevent something gnarly from happening.
Thread the nut/lug on a few threads by hand, then you can spin them on slowly using power or air tools. SLOWLY! Then, use your torque wrench to ensure everything to torqued down in a star pattern; I use 90ft/lbs. With new wheels, the paint/powercoat wears away after driving, check your torque settings after a few days of driving. I use a Precision Instruments wrench (http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/C.php), they were making the torque wrenchs for Snap On, but I don't know if they still are.
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09-17-2011, 10:49 PM | #40 |
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09-18-2011, 09:47 AM | #41 |
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09-18-2011, 06:59 PM | #42 |
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Saying you know the feel of 88lb-ft of torque is like saying you know the feel of 90 mph - no need for a speedometer. There is a reason for torque wrenches and they are used professionally except in crappy tire shops where all they care about is charging the maximum number of people in a day. A torque wrench is also a good reminder of the safety aspect of changing your wheels. For $50-75, it’s provides a lot of assurance. I use an extended head piece to clear the wheel arch with tape around the outside to protect the wheel finish. I screw the nuts on by hand with that and then use the wrench to torque it. I also use a wheel hanger rod to help align the wheel with the hub - especially if you use spacers.
Get a low profile racing jack. They cost around $120 and will save time. http://www.costco.ca/Browse/Product....rodid=10347524 <-- Canada so cheaper in US |
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09-18-2011, 09:48 PM | #43 |
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Its a safety issue. IMHO a torque wrench is a must in any home mechanic's tool. Theyre under $30 and I use it to make sure I don't over torque bolts and strip them. On the wheels, its more of an issue of tightening them enough and not an issue of stripping the bolt since they are heavy metal, but still, use a torque wrench.
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