[zenmaster]

Originally Posted by Walked U

Also noticed my temp would spike very easy to 250f+ and rest around 230F+ from before, which was 210 F+. Keep in mind I have 6 speed manual and sports package which = 2 oil coolers.

How did you ever get a 210F rest temp? My March prod 6MT sports package, w/ no mods, *always* stays between 240F-245F after the car is warmed up. This would be after 15 min of driving around 70MPH with outside temp of 70F.

BTW, my uninformed guess is that you had a vacuum leak somewhere, and the spike could have been the confused ECU telling the wastegate acuator to restrict temporarily.

[BoostedBMW]

Originally Posted by superman

I used to have a wrx, and adding a BOV always was a bad idea if the car was not tuned for it. From reading about the procede, it wasnt made to have an aftermarket BOV used with the tune. Im guessing like the wrx, there is no need for one until you start modding heavy, mayeb when people add new turbos, but with the stock turbos, Im sure the stock BOV is the way to go.

Chris

A MAP sensor and MAF sensor are two very different things.

[BoostedBMW]

Originally Posted by boostedtwin

I haven't noticed any difference with the AA. Again I do not have a boost gauge but I don't think i'm losing any power.

Get a boost gauge and help us out here... its a good excuse to buy one.

[Walked U]

Originally Posted by zenmaster

How did you ever get a 210F rest temp? My March prod 6MT sports package, w/ no mods, *always* stays between 240F-245F after the car is warmed up. This would be after 15 min of driving around 70MPH with outside temp of 70F.

BTW, my uninformed guess is that you had a vacuum leak somewhere, and the spike could have been the confused ECU telling the wastegate acuator to restrict temporarily.

My car has always ran a lot cooler than it should.

I only noticed the temp spikes when I did the DYI BOV. which make sense because if im peaking over 15 PSI im just blowing hot air through the turbos, which in turn basicly just cooking the turbos / oil.

Im pretty sure I didnt have a boost leak. Because all that crap was fixed when I put the hoses back into place. I didnt hear any signs of leaking either.

[Walked U]

Originally Posted by Terry335

Hmm is your diverter valve leaking under boost? Your problems sound like a boost leak to me.

PS. Don't worry about the peak AFR reading, all that matters is your AFR under sustained boost. Looks to be from 13.5:1 down to 12:1, normal. I wonder if your car is pulling timing? Scanning software might be in order!

Terry I hit 14.9 AFR 3k rpms. I have another dyno which I didnt post that my spike was carried all the way through the 2900 rpm mark.

Either way running 14.5/15 AFR for that long isnt good for you car which is result in knock.

My guess is I didnt hear knock because my car compensated for it being to lean then retarded my timing which resulted in a loss of hp/tq through the power band

Oh ya, my DV isnt leaking thats the first thing I checked. I thought I had a boost leak somewhere also.

But PSI is stable now with the hoses going where they belong.

[Walked U]

Originally Posted by SfValley335i

ahhh so it was the bov... well atleast we all know not to do that mod anymore. Im sure your glad now that you solved the problem time to meet up with that e36 m3

let me know if you want to dyno again in 2 weeks after bimmerfest. I'll have my xede then.

Ya ill probably redyno before then. I need to make sure everything is working properly. I dont think ill go back to harman because they never give me AFR readings.

[Walked U]

Originally Posted by superman

I used to have a wrx, and adding a BOV always was a bad idea if the car was not tuned for it. From reading about the procede, it wasnt made to have an aftermarket BOV used with the tune. Im guessing like the wrx, there is no need for one until you start modding heavy, mayeb when people add new turbos, but with the stock turbos, Im sure the stock BOV is the way to go.

Chris

Yes even with the evo guys having a BOV just hurts the cars performance and they end up loosing big time HP/TQ

[skim7x]

man i called that isht on the DIY BOV thread...

Very nice writeup... +98013

[wj4]

Originally Posted by Walked U

Yes even with the evo guys having a BOV just hurts the cars performance and they end up loosing big time HP/TQ

VTA BOVs caused us to stall as well since Evos are MAF based.

[jbake]

Originally Posted by wj4

VTA BOVs caused us to stall as well since Evos are MAF based.

w3rd...same here when I had my subaru...VTA BOV's have never done anything good for me always messed something up, whether it be boost levels, A/F ratios or boost leaks or stalling from not opening and closing properly, oh yeah don't forget compressor surge. IMO I would only use one on a turbo setup I built myself.

[533ogetnom]

Originally Posted by Walked U

Well i was reading the data logs on psi on my laptop and on my boost gauge to make sure the boost gauge wasnt messing up on me.


So what im basicly saying that from doing the BOV it made me run very lean in turn retarded my timing than made me loose power.

.... sorry i have to call BS, dumping the BO air back into the intake would feed more air into your engine NOT less, it sounds like you did a couple mods all at once and then discovered the problem...

i meen you just put a new free-er exhaust on your car and your surprised you had some boost spike, especially when your running a ECU map set up for a car without exhaust, theres WAY to much stuff going on with your car to blame the ghetto BOV


for instance, there is no way what so ever that the BOV was the cause of your boost spikes like you claim, its just not possible


i have to slap a big ole BS on this and say its all placebo

[Walked U]

Originally Posted by 533ogetnom

.... sorry i have to call BS, dumping the BO air back into the intake would feed more air into your engine NOT less, it sounds like you did a couple mods all at once and then discovered the problem...

i meen you just put a new free-er exhaust on your car and your surprised you had some boost spike, especially when your running a ECU map set up for a car without exhaust, theres WAY to much stuff going on with your car to blame the ghetto BOV


for instance, there is no way what so ever that the BOV was the cause of your boost spikes like you claim, its just not possible


i have to slap a big ole BS on this and say its all placebo

Uh ya.... Did you even read the thread carefully?

I was experiencing the boost spike before i got the ehxuast.

Read the first post again. I said i installed my boost gauge and the BOV at the same time.

When i put back the hoses my boost spike normalized and would only go to 12 psi peak. Instead of 16 psi.

READY CAREFULLY


oh also im using a tune made for exhaust...

And no shit my car is sucking in more air. Im peaking 4 more psi than im supose to.

[533ogetnom]

Originally Posted by Walked U

Uh ya.... Did you even read the thread carefully?

I was experiencing the boost spike before i got the ehxuast.

Read the first post again. I said i installed my boost gauge and the BOV at the same time.

When i put back the hoses my boost spike normalized and would only go to 12 psi peak. Instead of 16 psi.

READY CAREFULLY


oh also im using a tune made for exhaust...

go take the hoses back off then, and check again, the hoses are totally seperate from everything else, their only purpose is to route air into the intake, theres no way that will cause a boost spike...

[Terry335]

Originally Posted by Walked U

Terry I hit 14.9 AFR 3k rpms. I have another dyno which I didnt post that my spike was carried all the way through the 2900 rpm mark.

Either way running 14.5/15 AFR for that long isnt good for you car which is result in knock.

My guess is I didnt hear knock because my car compensated for it being to lean then retarded my timing which resulted in a loss of hp/tq through the power band

Oh ya, my DV isnt leaking thats the first thing I checked. I thought I had a boost leak somewhere also.

But PSI is stable now with the hoses going where they belong.

How were you able to determine they are not leaking under boost?

[DIRKD]

But blow offs are so cool

[edgarj]

Great post Sherwin-
I can't wait to see your revised dynos sans the DIY bov. It sounds like you've really backed up Matt's theory on this one.

[BoostedBMW]

Originally Posted by DIRKD

But blow offs are so cool

In all fairness, this post is referring to unplugging the diverter valve hoses, not installing a BOV. I would like to see if any of these same effects are on the AA car since they have tuned their car with a BOV also. Since its a MAP based car, I don't see what the problem would be.

[M3to335]

+1 on that one.

[musc]

Another reason not have one of these goofy sounding apparatuses ! Glad you got the problem figured out at least.

[M3to335]

But he said its related to the DIY bov, not a real bov.

[Walked U]

Yes im not saying BOV's in general are bad.

I said it is my experience that doing the DIY bov caused me to run high AFR's for prolonged time.

If you guys are going to do the mod

#1. make sure both plugs you are plugging up are sealed up nice and tight.
(I believe if you dont have this plugged up tightly that you can cause a surge in PSI.)

#2. If you have a procede or boost gauge check your psi pressure to make sure that you arent peaking over your recommended number.

#3. if possible check your AFR readings.

Like I said ill redyno and check out my AFR readings again.

[Bravo1]

This is a typical symptom of a boost leak. You won't be able to hear the boost leak if you have the vehicle on. The best way to do it is to get an air compressor and pressurize the whole intake plumbing up to 20 to 25 psi or so as the 335 shouldn't ever be exceding that anyway. You should hear the boost leak pretty easily but you may have to use some soapy water to know for sure. Refit, tighten and test again. Also make sure that your boost table didn't get corrupted... which shouldn't be the case as you uploaded a new map.

An aftermarket BOV really isn't necessary at this point and you are more likely to have boost surge and other drivability issues because of it.