[cwn23]

I don't think so. I am going to try taking the module apart to see what's inside. If I can't take wires out I will try the tape it up. Last thing if none of the above work I am going to take out the dremel and shave the part that sticks out on the pedal.
Basically I don't need to "kick Down" to facilitate a quick overtake maneuver by dropping down a gear because the car is quick enough at any gear I am in!!!!! Maybe stock it might e useful!! Lol

[acdHQK713K]

Originally Posted by cwn23

I don't think so. I am going to try taking the module apart to see what's inside. If I can't take wires out I will try the tape it up. Last thing if none of the above work I am going to take out the dremel and shave the part that sticks out on the pedal.
Basically I don't need to "kick Down" to facilitate a quick overtake maneuver by dropping down a gear because the car is quick enough at any gear I am in!!!!! Maybe stock it might e useful!! Lol

I think I recall that there isn't actually a "switch" per se, it is simply tactile feedback.

[mattsfeir]

I've been using the block of wood (like the above pic, but taped on with black duct tape) for about 6 months now, no issues. AT still downshifts automatically in D and DS (as it normally would without engaging the kickdown), but won't downshift in M (floor it in M4 at 2K rpm and no downshift).

I've also logged 100% throttle with the block of wood in place.

[cwn23]

That's interesting. With the block of wood there, how does it still downshift in d or DS mode? Doesnt it require that switch to be pressed? I am quite puzzled!

[mattsfeir]

Originally Posted by cwn23

That's interesting. With the block of wood there, how does it still downshift in d or DS mode? Doesnt it require that switch to be pressed? I am quite puzzled!

The switch only comes into play past full throttle. If you give it medium to heavy throttle without flooring it, it will still downshift as the switch isn't even touched. Even if you do need the full kickdown, it will still do that in D and DS.

Also agree that it's not a switch, just a metal plate that clicks, there are pictures on here somewhere where someone took it apart.

[happy4nk8er]

Originally Posted by cwn23

That's interesting. With the block of wood there, how does it still downshift in d or DS mode? Doesnt it require that switch to be pressed? I am quite puzzled!

It is based on vacuum and load for downshifting, unless you put it in DS and use the paddle shifter, then downshifting to lower gear is only done by hitting the detent on gas pedal. That is my understanding.

[GeorgeSmooth]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Interesting because I want to also get rid of this too...Is it wire that needs to be taken off that switch?

The point I was trying to make is that there isn't a switch. There is a spring to create the resistance required to feel old school switch like but there is only a potentiometer that measures the throttle position.

You guys can take it apart and see. Potentially you can make a modification on the inside not to allow it to go past the point where it kicks down.

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by ZURICH

The "Kick down" is to facilitate a quick overtake manouver.
All clear, indicate, pull out and floor it. the sensor will automaticall drop you to the best gear for max power at your current speed, OK?

Well in my case its more of a performance drop. I can be in a gear at 5k RPM and it drops gear throwing my RPMs past 6k RPM which is way past my Turbos' tap off point.

Its a waist, pointless, unless on a role my RPMs are 3-4k RPM or doing launch control or brake launching. If your already past 4K RPM better not hit the kickdown cause it will F U up on a role take. At least for me does..

[rismo]

But if you press the pedal up to the "switch moment", my logs indicate 78% pedal pressure.... How should I read this? Is WOT all the way down or up to the "Switch moment" ....

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by GeorgeSmooth

The point I was trying to make is that there isn't a switch. There is a spring to create the resistance required to feel old school switch like but there is only a potentiometer that measures the throttle position.

You guys can take it apart and see. Potentially you can make a modification on the inside not to allow it to go past the point where it kicks down.

I just read your thread on the other forum..I am really interested on how you did this but its still very unclear...The thread actuallys stated that you are using an actual button for nitrous on the pedal...I understand what your saying that there is physically no wires...Please describe exactly what you did and please provide a DIY on what you did...You already stated its not a switch but a spring, what do I need to do...If possible can you supply some pics of your setup, it would be greatly appreciated as you can see there are others like the OP and my myself that would like to have your setup...Thanks

[ZURICH]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

Well in my case its more of a performance drop. I can be in a gear at 5k RPM and it drops gear throwing my RPMs past 6k RPM which is way past my Turbos' tap off point.

Its a waist, pointless, unless on a role my RPMs are 3-4k RPM or doing launch control or brake launching. If your already past 4K RPM better not hit the kickdown cause it will F U up on a role take. At least for me does..

Hmm, seems like you need a manual box and a second stage Turbo, coz you are driving a wanabe flying machine.
The kickdown was designed for normal Autobhan driving and not suitable, as you have discovered, for any sort of real spirited driving. Kev.

[GeorgeSmooth]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

I just read your thread on the other forum..I am really interested on how you did this but its still very unclear...The thread actuallys stated that you are using an actual button for nitrous on the pedal...I understand what your saying that there is physically no wires...Please describe exactly what you did and please provide a DIY on what you did...You already stated its not a switch but a spring, what do I need to do...If possible can you supply some pics of your setup, it would be greatly appreciated as you can see there are others like the OP and my myself that would like to have your setup...Thanks

I am traveling abroad at the moment so will post pics in about a week. Basically what we did is we took a typical full throttle switch and mounted it on the side of the throttle pedal assembly. Adjusted in such a way that it will only activate when the throttle pedal is all the way down into the overdrive position. This ensured that the nitrous will only activate under full throttle over and above the progressive controller and make sure its on only when I am fully committed. i.e. in first gear launches I do not activate it as I do not floor it full, if traction exists though I just mesh the peddle to full. In second if I loose traction even if progressive controller wants the nitrous on I just release off the overdrive position whilst staying on full throttle. So in total the little microswitch has the final say if the nitrous should be on or off.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by GeorgeSmooth

I am traveling abroad at the moment so will post pics in about a week. Basically what we did is we took a typical full throttle switch and mounted it on the side of the throttle pedal assembly. Adjusted in such a way that it will only activate when the throttle pedal is all the way down into the overdrive position. This ensured that the nitrous will only activate under full throttle over and above the progressive controller and make sure its on only when I am fully committed. i.e. in first gear launches I do not activate it as I do not floor it full, if traction exists though I just mesh the peddle to full. In second if I loose traction even if progressive controller wants the nitrous on I just release off the overdrive position whilst staying on full throttle. So in total the little microswitch has the final say if the nitrous should be on or off.

I see!!! That's what I did also. I installed a micro switch on the side of the pedal assembly and have it touch in such a way that the pedal is at 100% but not before it hits the overdrive button and when this happens with conjunction of a "go fast button" pressed at the same time will the nitrous spray!! It's assures I am always at WOT with the pedal! Okay all along I thought you somehow wires in the actual overdrive button but it lOoks like we did the same thing! Thanks

[Mauryk]

Pix from my 2010 335 xdrive.

The kickdown button is removable.

Side views of gas pedal (removed from car)


kickdown button in place


kickdown button 99% removed. It just slides out.

With it out, the kickdown plate does not get activated. I don't know the effects when you drive it this way. It may down-shift anyway

[cn555ic]

Can you try to install it back without that overdrive button and test it out for us to see if indeed overdrive is completely taken out of the equation since you already have the pedal off the car. It would be greatly appreciated as many of us hate this function on our AT

[GeorgeSmooth]

Originally Posted by Mauryk

Pix from my 2010 335 xdrive.

The kickdown button is removable.

Side views of gas pedal (removed from car)


kickdown button in place


kickdown button 99% removed. It just slides out.

With it out, the kickdown plate does not get activated. I don't know the effects when you drive it this way. It may down-shift anyway

My pedal looks nothing like that.

[Mauryk]

I have the pedal out because I replaced it with the "performance" pedal a few months ago. So, swapping it out is the same effort for me as anyone else.

The "performance" pedal was a cosmetic change only.

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Can you try to install it back without that overdrive button and test it out for us to see if indeed overdrive is completely taken out of the equation since you already have the pedal off the car. It would be greatly appreciated as many of us hate this function on our AT

[Mauryk]

Actually, my replacement pedal doesn't look anything like it either

Originally Posted by GeorgeSmooth

My pedal looks nothing like that.

[GeorgeSmooth]

Originally Posted by Mauryk

Actually, my replacement pedal doesn't look anything like it either

Thank goodness. For a moment I thought I was loosing it and for a moment it looked like I didn't know what I was talking about.

[cwn23]

I solved the puzzle for now...Get some Orings for water faucets preferably the black rounded ones and crazy glue 2 of them together (pic 1) and then cut it so that your able to spread it over the throttle pedal (pic 2)...Put some glue sparingly on the round part where the oring will be placed over the throttle pedal kickdown button and rotate it to get the other surrounding area. The two orings glued together is the perfect height to prevent the throttle pedal to travel anymore to trigger the button ( you can actually hear a click before I placed the orings but no more after) ..I tried it out and its gold...Its just enough not to trigger the button and make it click for over-drive! Damn thing is annoying...No matter how I try not to hit the kick down button, there are occasions that I do and the engine suddenly revs like there is no tomorrow and I cant stand it!!!Here are some pics...

[Wedge1967]

Nice out of the box thinking. +1

[cn555ic]

Hmmm I think I am going to try this out as its also annoying the crap out of me...I was testing out the nitrous today and when I stomped on the pedal it went into over-drive and I had to abort the test
I was cursing the shit out of that stupid over-drive button

There were not too many opportunities for open road and the one time I had it I was over aggressive with the pedal and smashed it too far down and hit that damn kick down button...Going out to my local hardware store or Home-Depot to buy it and give it a try! Nice writeup!