[Elliott@DetailAddict]

Very simple solution with the rewire and coding as makkan stated already.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by makkan00

I have done front and rear LCI conversion.
Everything worked fined including the coding.
Initially I had some problems with the lights in bootlid as with normal lights on, rear fog lights were turning one and on reversing, lights were getting grounded. I have sorted the wiring issues, and all lights are fine and functional now.

However I am having rear right brake errors:
Following are error codes which I get OBC:
CC-ID 87
CC-ID 118
CC-ID 123
CC-ID 133
On googling all of these point toward Right side rear brake lights.

All the lights work fine and no problems.
I have check all the bulbs and they seems fine. I have also change the bulbs of rear Right side light (not the one on bootlid) but errors are still there.

Can anybody suggest what could have gone wrong? I can live with it, but it is annoying that I get errors whereas all lights work fine.

I am adding my rear light history here, before I ask any further question.

I had those error codes before coding.After coding, I discovered (actually today) that my Rear Right side (external and not boot lid part of rear light) two bulbs were not functioning, and I have changed them now. They are working. However after changing bulbs those errors are still on OBC.


My Questions to all of your coding gurus out there after reading what I have stated above;

1- When we uncheck all cold and warm checks, why should FRM / OBC give me those errors which I am getting? As we have unchecked them, so car should not be checking them and I should not be getting those codes.
Am I correct thinking that theoratically?

2- Exception to Question 1 (above) would be, If I had those errors before coding the car, and then I coded the car with presence of those errors.
Now after coding, because car is not cold and warm checking and if codes were already stored on FRM or OBC, they would always show up (as car would not check rear lights after coding).
Am I correct in thinking that?

3- If answer to my question 2 (above) is that I am correct, then the only solution, I see with it is, reset the coding back to OEM.
Car will cold and warm check the errors and if there will be no errors, OBC will clear out.
Once that has been achieved, then I could code it again.

Am I correct saying that?


I am just putting my thoughts here, and I am sure coding gurus would comment on it and would put me in right direction.



Thanks.

[DimitrisM3]

Yes today I order the cables
But with coding I am sure that I will
Have problem !!! I ask same dealers and they told give your vin number and we will see etc ...

[wtfmateim65]

so what i'm getting is that you need to code the 2 values the OP posted in the first post, as well as all the bulb checks for: cold testing for rear turn and brake/warm testing for rear turn and brake. That makes sense.

What about the BFD value the second poster was talking about? Do we need to code the BFD with regular brake value? Or something else?

[Yvette]

Originally Posted by wtfmateim65

so what i'm getting is that you need to code the 2 values the OP posted in the first post, as well as all the bulb checks for: cold testing for rear turn and brake/warm testing for rear turn and brake. That makes sense.

What about the BFD value the second poster was talking about? Do we need to code the BFD with regular brake value? Or something else?

bfd known as brake force display also need to be coded in order to remove
'rear brake lamp malfunction' like I stated above.
see post #3

[FSociety]

which codes are exactly needed for this conversion?

[Yvette]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

which codes are exactly needed for this conversion?

read post #1,3

[TigerJK37]

I have done this conversion about a year ago and learned how to code while doing so. However I still cannot figure out how to fix my turn signals. My rear turn signals do not fully eluminate for some reason. I know for sure that its a voltage issue and I know that it is not the tail light it self. I have disables all the error codes and I have rewired the inner lights. Does anyone know what other codes I have to do on top of disableing warm/cold check.

P.S. anyone know how to make HID fogs to stay on. I have disabled the bulb check but it still goes out after few seconds.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by NiVeDh

For E90 LCI tail light retrofit, you need to "re-order" the wiring harness so that it looks like this:

Original credit to this guy who posted wirings.


I have found that few people asked me couple of times about wiring diagrams.

I sent PMs to few and now uploading it, so whoever search it, should come across it.

Please make white plastic clips as reference point (and that should be facing you).

This is from eurooean car (RHD).

OSF (driver side/ Right tail light)


NSF (passenger side / Left tail light)

[FSociety]

same picture (wiring order) needed for US models works for European too?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

same picture (wiring order) needed for US models works for European too?

Wiring order is same, except your left side is driver side.

[FSociety]

My friend just said car is not sending electricity to the reverse light

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

My friend just said car is not sending electricity to the reverse light

Did your reverse light use to work with the old tails? If they were working, then it's impossible adding these tails would make them not work unless there was a short when taking out the lights. Very strange

[Elliott@DetailAddict]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Did your reverse light use to work with the old tails? If they were working, then it's impossible adding these tails would make them not work unless there was a short when taking out the lights. Very strange

Short or bad new lights with damage.
Customer just rescheduled since his LCI tails for his E93 were not lighting up at all so it's possible.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Did your reverse light use to work with the old tails? If they were working, then it's impossible adding these tails would make them not work unless there was a short when taking out the lights. Very strange

I bought the car with the old trunk/lights crashed so I took it to body shop bought new LCI trunk/lights and fixed.
Bodyshop who installed the trunk/light might of screwed it up ?

Friend re-wired the trunk for me and my LCI were lining/lighting up correctly and my reverse light worked for a few days even though it was very *low output* (reverse bulb) and then i noticed the lights not lighting up after a week.

Originally Posted by Grant@DetailAddict

Short or bad new lights with damage.
Customer just rescheduled since his LCI tails for his E93 were not lighting up at all so it's possible.

Friend checked my car and said all fuses look fine, but the reverse lights are just not receiving any signal but the other lights are and look ok, he said the reverse bulb is not bad either. I was considering getting LED bulb w/ resistor but he said it makes no difference if the reverse doesn't get the signal from the car.

What can I do ?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

I bought the car with the old trunk/lights crashed so I took it to body shop bought new LCI trunk/lights and fixed.
Bodyshop who installed the trunk/light might of screwed it up ?

Friend re-wired the trunk for me and my LCI were lining/lighting up correctly and my reverse light worked for a few days even though it was very *low output* (reverse bulb) and then i noticed the lights not lighting up after a week.



Friend checked my car and said all fuses look fine, but the reverse lights are just not receiving any signal but the other lights are and look ok, he said the reverse bulb is not bad either. I was considering getting LED bulb w/ resistor but he said it makes no difference if the reverse doesn't get the signal from the car.

What can I do ?

If wires allocation is correct and bulbs are fine, then reset FRM / NFRM.
Search the thread how to reset NFRM.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by makkan00

If wires allocation is correct and bulbs are fine, then reset FRM / NFRM.
Search the thread how to reset NFRM.

I was told that it might be a short of some kind because the reverse light wasn't working before the coding, and even when the wiring is correct it still didnt work after the coding. I even had my friend switching the wiring different ways (incorrect ways and correct way) and made no difference.

I think I am in trouble

[cn555ic]

Rob. Listen we can try to set it back to default values is basically what Makkan00 is saying. I don't think it will work but at least we can try.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Rob. Listen we can try to set it back to default values is basically what Makkan00 is saying. I don't think it will work but at least we can try.

I want to go with Makkan's suggestion but like we both said if it didnt work before the coding, what will resetting the NFRM do ?

[cn555ic]

You have the frm module.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

You have the frm module.

Correct, I wonder if the folks who have done the LCI Tails retrofit need frm2 ? or some weird harness, or resistor

[cn555ic]

Nah. It's basically the same for FRM2. All u do is code out the warm and cold checks and the dash warning lights. Same idea just different scripts to change.