[sy2767]

I have been in boost for longer than a few seconds and nothing so far, keeping my fingers crossed.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by sy2767

I have been in boost for longer than a few seconds and nothing so far, keeping my fingers crossed.

Don't find your problems, let them find you.

[sy2767]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Don't find your problems, let them find you.

Bingo!

[Bostoniabemmer]

Cracked my CP by the plug, for now im running with a clamp in there and I feel the leaking really bad, my car is just so much slower, im also running stage 2 dinan, and the factory one wont hold it I bealieve, so whats the best option here? Which one is better?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Bostoniabemmer

Cracked my CP by the plug, for now im running with a clamp in there and I feel the leaking really bad, my car is just so much slower, im also running stage 2 dinan, and the factory one wont hold it I bealieve, so whats the best option here? Which one is better?

In regards to the ER, they offer an OEM style to keep your stock DV, Tial BOV option or HKS BOV option.

Color preference (Brushed, Polished, Anodized Black) is up to you as well as the BOV option.

There is no best, just personal preference.

Edit just realized im in the N55 section, so no BOV options, just the finish.

[Bostoniabemmer]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

In regards to the ER, they offer an OEM style to keep your stock DV, Tial BOV option or HKS BOV option.

Color preference (Brushed, Polished, Anodized Black) is up to you as well as the BOV option.

There is no best, just personal preference.

Edit just realized im in the N55 section, so no BOV options, just the finish.

Do you think I should replace the DV ? And im definitely placing a order for my CP before this weekend, also another quick question, my car have the angel eyes but they are kind of yellow and I really dont like it, how kuch for a set of the white ones?

[Mannix]

Is the ER charge pipe made in USA?

And what about the inlet pipe (between the turbo and the intercooler)—is there an aftermarket aluminum one available?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Mannix

Is the ER charge pipe made in USA?

And what about the inlet pipe (between the turbo and the intercooler)—is there an aftermarket aluminum one available?

Yes the ER charge pipe is made in their California facility. If they are out of stock, they can usually make you a brushed one in couple days

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Mannix

And what about the inlet pipe (between the turbo and the intercooler)—is there an aftermarket aluminum one available?

Not familiar with a company that makes this product for the E chassis

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Mannix

Is the ER charge pipe made in USA?

And what about the inlet pipe (between the turbo and the intercooler)—is there an aftermarket aluminum one available?

Hot side turbo outlet, they are in the works by a few companies for the N54, hopefully soon after for the N55.

[Herakles]

Originally Posted by 335 oClock

Review:

Having had this charge pipe on for a couple of months now, I decided it definitely needs a review.

Charge pipes are usually not considered a major part of modifying a car, and some people believe "anything would work, a charge pipe is a charge pipe." I beg to differ!

I chose to go with the stealth anodized black look, but it is also offered in polished. You can also get none, one, or two meth bungs, I chose to go with one 8).

The charge pipe comes with everything needed for install including four clamps, two silicone housings, cover the pipes nicely and definitely enough to ensure no leak.

I have been able to tell an increase in throttle response as well as less turbo lag with the change of my stock charge pipe to the ER pipe. The throttle response is definitely and immediately noticeable with this pipe. Its 3" aluminum piping allows for maximum flow without having to worry about any "cracks" or "leaks" from the pipe.

With or without a tune or any modifications, I would most definitely recommend this... as some peoples stock pipes are cracking with no mods! When you remove your old pipe and compare it to the ER pipe, you will know exactly what I mean. Stock pipe is too flimsy, I would say even for stock boost levels.

Install was extremely easy and it took about 40 minutes... its nice to have somebody there to hold a light while you work but it can be done alone.

The charge pipe uses the factory c-clip as well as a replica MAP sensor flange that utilizes the same factory o-ring seal, so it really is a pop out and pop in process. A couple things in the way of course, which will need to be moved/removed first.


Here are a few easy steps to install the pipe

!!!)So important it comes before #1!!! ) Take the time to remove anything that may be in your way of having good clearance and comfort in changing/modifying anything. Have proper tools. These two things cause a lot of head ache if the time isn't taken to do and will extend your head ache and your time of install by a ton!

The steps begin with the install of a new charge pipe, not removal of stock/previous charge pipe

1) fit the silicone housing (will refer to as SH) on the tube connected to your FMIC, that tube gets a bit thicker and stops the SH, slide it down until that point and stop. don't try to push it over that point, make sure all the way around it touching that point
2) put the both clamps over it (do not tighten it)
3) while holding the pipe connected to your FMIC, insert the charge pipe to the other end of the SH and adjust it by turning it to make sure that you are getting the screw place matching as well as the other end in the correct position to be put in (do not put it in yet)
3.5) this is only if you want to do it, I did not do it this way but it may help make sure the screw will be screwed in. Put either the mid-pipe support screw or some long screw in the hole made in the CP and your car to give the pipe less wiggle room
4) while holding the hose connected to your FMIC, press your charge pipe into the silicone (put some pressure in pushing back against this with the hose connected to FMIC as well to get tight fitment)
5) plug in MAP sensor
6) see that things are still aligned, pop the other end of your charge pipe in (T-Body)
7) feel around on the SH to make sure you feel both pipes are inside as much as they could be
8) clamp it down as TIGHT as you can on the charge pipe end, and as tight as you can on your FMIC pipe end (this is plastic, so be cautious)
9) tighten middle screw
10) plug in MAP sensor
11) Re-install all parts taken out or moved to do this install
12) Smile !

**I'm not responsible for any damage prior/during/after installation, or any decisions made to modify the car. Work at your own risk and a professional is always recommended. This is just my "2 cents" of the install

I’m having trouble with the proper proportional adjustment of the flex hose between the intercooler inlet and cp inlet

[mike@x-ph.com]

Evolution Racewerks N55 charge pipe, anodized black

[Turbod]

It is a great pipe with great fitment. I have an anodized black one with a single methanol bung I'm getting ready to list for sale should anyone be looking for a used one. E series N55 pipe.

[Ozzie335i]

Same as Turbod, perfect fit... my only beef is that the bung was not capable of flowing the 50 % e85 I wanted. I ended up with a solution from Fuel-It.

[Kevin39]

Looks like Mike must be bored at work today

[philgli]

Originally Posted by Turbod

It is a great pipe with great fitment. I have an anodized black one with a single methanol bung I'm getting ready to list for sale should anyone be looking for a used one. E series N55 pipe.

What kind of play is there at the throttle body?

I have had 3 now...

OEM had zero play
Cobb had almost zero play
*name removed but not ER* had noticeable play.

I am told a little play is normal and doesn't matter but i can't image how it wouldn't leak boost...

[Turbod]

Originally Posted by philgli

What kind of play is there at the throttle body?

I have had 3 now...

OEM had zero play
Cobb had almost zero play
*name removed but not ER* had noticeable play.

I am told a little play is normal and doesn't matter but i can't image how it wouldn't leak boost...

Since it bolts to the factory location, meaning there is a bracket to mount to the engine it doesn't really move around at all. I put a VRSF one on since I wanted dual methanol bungs and didn't want to pay the ER price again just for an additional bung. No boost leaks yet but I am only running 12 psi. I noticed a decent amount of play with the VRSF one. I think the play comes down to the way it is connected or mounted to the throttle body. Since it is the factory clamp if you don't have an additional support bracket it will move around.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Kevin39

Looks like Mike must be bored at work today

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

I have ETS with 2 meth bungs. Amazing pipe. Curved very nicely so it fits really well and doesn't move on intercooler sidr and throttle side.

I have seen many ER and they are as phenomenal and good as the ETS ones. It's one of the only chargepipe that retains a bracket like the factory one so it can be mounted. It gets solid as a rock won't budge.