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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > WW tank to trunk mount question



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      05-24-2012, 02:29 AM   #23
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Great Posts guys, Thanks for all the info.
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      05-25-2012, 10:06 PM   #24
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For those with the newest vishnu PWM kit like myself with the compression fittings who are looking to convert to braided lines and need new fittings:

The pump has a 3/8" x 1/8" bushing.* 1/8"BSPP fittings will fit
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      05-29-2012, 11:12 AM   #25
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i got another question. is there an elegant way to tap power from the near by battery?
or do you guys run the wire all the way from the engine bay?
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      05-29-2012, 11:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335okc View Post
i got another question. is there an elegant way to tap power from the near by battery?
or do you guys run the wire all the way from the engine bay?
I didn't tap for power at the battery because I didnt want a possible drain. So I tapped in the engine bay at that big 50 red amp fuse, although that isn't the most ideal place anyone can tap for power in the fuse box if they so inclined with an switched accessories/ignition on source.
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      05-29-2012, 02:52 PM   #27
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with distance over 6ft, from tap to pump, i heard you have to use bigger gauge wires? which one do you use?
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      05-30-2012, 09:16 PM   #28
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My fsb is in the engine compartment w/JB4 and that is what tells the pump when to turn on and off.
So I have to run a wire
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      05-31-2012, 09:52 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpsimon View Post
For those with the newest vishnu PWM kit like myself with the compression fittings who are looking to convert to braided lines and need new fittings:

The pump has a 3/8" x 1/8" bushing.* 1/8"BSPP fittings will fit
How about the injector valve, can those fittings be replaced?

Last edited by pinky_and_me; 05-31-2012 at 10:52 AM..
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      05-31-2012, 10:37 AM   #30
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If you want to play it safe on the tank, I'd suggest an FIA-approved fuel cell, like the 3-gallon ATL RA103. Going to cost you, though.

http://www.jegs.com/i/ATL/046/RA103/10002/-1


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      05-31-2012, 11:22 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335okc View Post
with distance over 6ft, from tap to pump, i heard you have to use bigger gauge wires? which one do you use?
I used whatever size the pump has on it. 16 Gauge? I cant recall.
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      05-31-2012, 03:14 PM   #32
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am I missing something or did you guys forget for the pwm kits you would need to cut/extend all the wires that run under to the ECU box..?
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      05-31-2012, 03:45 PM   #33
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Quote:
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am I missing something or did you guys forget for the pwm kits you would need to cut/extend all the wires that run under to the ECU box..?
Not if you keep the pump in the front. If you switch to braided tubing and AN fittings the chance of a leak seems pretty small so relocating the tank to the trunk to eliminate spills and fumes would be enough.
The PWM kit is not gravity fed so you'll have the same issues no matter where the tank is.
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      05-31-2012, 03:52 PM   #34
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Just disconnect the pwm pump from the harness and extend the wiring to the trunk. No need to access ecu box. Remember the pump is turned on/off by the boost switch.
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      05-31-2012, 06:31 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinky_and_me View Post
Not if you keep the pump in the front. If you switch to braided tubing and AN fittings the chance of a leak seems pretty small so relocating the tank to the trunk to eliminate spills and fumes would be enough.
The PWM kit is not gravity fed so you'll have the same issues no matter where the tank is.
^this is what I was told before, keep the pump under the hood and only do new tank/lines.

I wonder if any WW kit vendors are going to be offering a trunk mount option now after all these fires?
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      08-03-2012, 08:32 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpsimon View Post
For those with the newest vishnu PWM kit like myself with the compression fittings who are looking to convert to braided lines and need new fittings:

The pump has a 3/8" x 1/8" bushing.* 1/8"BSPP fittings will fit

This is exactly the info I have been looking for. Could you please be more specific with which fittings you bought?

How its the braided line set-up working?
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      08-03-2012, 08:47 AM   #37
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it's possible to keep the pump under the hood and still get 60-100% flow (at least with my 200psi Coolmist kit + flow sensor) Just:

1) tap into the bottom of the tank so the meth fluid will be gravity fed throughout most of the meth line

2) install a check valve before the meth line has to curve up to feed into the charge pipe to prevent back-flow

But the best option, as others have said, is to move the pump directly below the tank. The pump, when under the hood, is another heat source for meth to possibly boil and you can end up with close to zero flow if not installed correctly.
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      08-03-2012, 09:57 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pankakez_&_CoolWip View Post
This is exactly the info I have been looking for. Could you please be more specific with which fittings you bought?

How its the braided line set-up working?
I ended up using compression fittings instead
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      08-03-2012, 09:58 AM   #39
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You are better off putting the pump under the tank so that it is directly gravity fed and you want the pump close to the source.

Having the pump directly gravity fed will always self prime the pump and will keep most of those issues at bay.

Last, is that you want to keep the NPSHR (net positive suction head required) as low as possible. Keeping the pump far away from the source increases the NPSHR. If your NPHSR is greater than your NPSHA (net positive suction head availabe) then you can cavitate the meth. This can damage your pump and reduce flow.
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      08-03-2012, 11:00 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
You are better off putting the pump under the tank so that it is directly gravity fed and you want the pump close to the source.

Having the pump directly gravity fed will always self prime the pump and will keep most of those issues at bay.

Last, is that you want to keep the NPSHR (net positive suction head required) as low as possible. Keeping the pump far away from the source increases the NPSHR. If your NPHSR is greater than your NPSHA (net positive suction head availabe) then you can cavitate the meth. This can damage your pump and reduce flow.
Nevermind, misread your post.
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      08-14-2012, 07:33 PM   #41
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This is my project this weekend as well.. I am migrating from the BMS WW system to a trunk mount system. Using DevilsOwn parts and some Snow parts to make it all work. I don;t suspect this to be difficult, more tedious than anything. I will also be adding a single LED indicator hidden in the dash for low meth in the tank using a float switch.

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      08-14-2012, 08:10 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmanhiker View Post
This is my project this weekend as well.. I am migrating from the BMS WW system to a trunk mount system. Using DevilsOwn parts and some Snow parts to make it all work. I don;t suspect this to be difficult, more tedious than anything. I will also be adding a single LED indicator hidden in the dash for low meth in the tank using a float switch.

Mount the LED in one of your A/C vent... It's easy to see and you don't have to drill anything. Plus at night the whole vent lights up, looks legit and very stealth.
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