[Bimmer305]

Heat the block/head and then freeze the stud using compress air can?

[benzy89]

Think it's time to call in the specialist & take it to a shop

[CHECKERED]

Originally Posted by Bimmer305

Heat the block/head and then freeze the stud using compress air can?

+1

repeat this a 4-5 times,

[k3m0-330i]

heat it, put pb blaster, then heat it again and repeat 2-3 times and then try removing it..

[Eric335]

Originally Posted by k3m0-330i

heat it, put pb blaster, then heat it again and repeat 2-3 times and then try removing it..

Try PB Blaster?

[cstavaru]

Originally Posted by benzy89

Think it's time to call in the specialist & take it to a shop

They are not Gods to magically fix the problem...in this scenario they have the same power as the OP. If anything, a mechanic may have even worse ideas than many N54 owners.

OP, how about leaving the stud in there and using a new nut on it and that's it. It's not aluminium, I weighted mine.

[MilehighM3]

Stud extractors are a techs best friend. How has no one asked why you're removing all the studs in the first place? You'll want the studs in place prior to reinstalling the turbos any way....

[sammy_0559]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

Stud extractors are a techs best friend. How has no one asked why you're removing all the studs in the first place? You'll want the studs in place prior to reinstalling the turbos any way....

i had a hard time removing the nut. i was replacing all the studs. that thing is still stuck

[N8N]

Use anti-seize on the new studs... i think you see why

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

Don't bother with penetrant, PB blaster, Etc. those are designed to loosen fasteners that are frozen from things such as rust etc. What you have is known as galling. It's very common when 2 dissimilar metals ie aluminum and steel seize to each other. It can happen at anytime if installed dry. Sometimes I will be sliding a compressor onto a shaft and if Im not careful if will gall to the shaft with little to no warning and I have to press it off taking a bit of the aluminum with it. The only thing that will help is heat and patience working it back and forth and even then expect to have damaged threads in your head. Use heat work it back and forth and be patient. Worst case is you snap it. Then you are in a real mess. Try to work it slowly and then you will have to clean up the threads once you get it out. Anti-seize compound will eliminate this problem in the future.

[MuchMoore]

Edit: nevermind.

[sammy_0559]

Originally Posted by Vargasturbotech

Don't bother with penetrant, PB blaster, Etc. those are designed to loosen fasteners that are frozen from things such as rust etc. What you have is known as galling. It's very common when 2 dissimilar metals ie aluminum and steel seize to each other. It can happen at anytime if installed dry. Sometimes I will be sliding a compressor onto a shaft and if Im not careful if will gall to the shaft with little to no warning and I have to press it off taking a bit of the aluminum with it. The only thing that will help is heat and patience working it back and forth and even then expect to have damaged threads in your head. Use heat work it back and forth and be patient. Worst case is you snap it. Then you are in a real mess. Try to work it slowly and then you will have to clean up the threads once you get it out. Anti-seize compound will eliminate this problem in the future.

Will spend all day tomorrow taking my time heating it and turning it back and forth hopefully it comes out and I will rethread it. Thanks for the input, will update my progress tomorrow.

I still havent taken the rear turbo out yet

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

Originally Posted by sammy_0559

Will spend all day tomorrow taking my time heating it and turning it back and forth hopefully it comes out and I will rethread it. Thanks for the input, will update my progress tomorrow.

I still havent taken the rear turbo out yet

If you are doing it without the subframe removed make your life a lot easier and pull it. Everything will be right in your face and you wont have to work around anything. The 20 minutes to pull and hour to put the back the subframe is well worth the effort to make sure everything is installed correctly.

[sammy_0559]

Originally Posted by Vargasturbotech

If you are doing it without the subframe removed make your life a lot easier and pull it. Everything will be right in your face and you wont have to work around anything. The 20 minutes to pull and hour to put the back the subframe is well worth the effort to make sure everything is installed correctly.

So much for a simple turbo install :/ lol hope the stage 3 Vargas I don't run into the same issues I'm having now. Tomorrw is gonna be a longggg day

[cn555ic]

Damn I hope it goes some what smooth tomorrow as this is looking to be a nightmare..

[sammy_0559]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Damn I hope it goes some what smooth tomorrow as this is looking to be a nightmare..

I knoww tell me about it. But I got my daily fixed the other day so I'm good right now. Not in a hurry as I was when my daily took a shit.but yeah tomorrow is gonna be interesting

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by sammy_0559

I knoww tell me about it. But I got my daily fixed the other day so I'm good right now. Not in a hurry as I was when my daily took a shit.but yeah tomorrow is gonna be interesting

I was in the same position as you with my 92 325i, I was taking the headers off and one of the studs was stuck in there damn tight. It ended up taking 4 hours, used the double nut method, pb blaster, hammered it, AND heated it up, finally after all of the hassle she came free!

Don't give up man, it may seem like a lost cause right now, but with patience I am sure you can get it free, like Vargas said, rotating between heat and trying to budge it, good luck!

[sammy_0559]

Torch ran out of gas.. guess im waiting till monday, eveyones closed to refill FML.

[Gugs]

I would go get the tool to re- thread the stud and try to use two nuts again.

I have actually been here myself...
Ended up having break the stud to drill the center,then use a reverse thread (ez-out) bit and it will remove it.
The ez-out is designed for exactly this headach.

[BMWM.D.]

I don't have much else to add, but it's possible someone cross-threaded the stud if the turbos have been removed. Or it could just be galling. Either way, it sucks dealing with this stuff. I'd probably use an easy-out to get a good bite on it, then use the torch and try to break it free.

If all else fails, there might be some thread repair specialists in your area. We have a mobile guy whose business is called "Hole Works". He deals strictly with seized/broken bolts, damaged threads, etc. I've seen him work some micacles. Might cost you a few hundred bucks, but could be the best option if you aren't experienced with this stuff.

[sammy_0559]

[Redrkt503]

Congratulations, crisis averted lol