[quasitime]

Originally Posted by Greatdane84

Quasi can you update us on what happened in the almost 2months this thread was inactive for? You left off talking about going in to the dealer about the injectors and then almost 2 months later you say a month ago your HPFP was replaced. You obviously went to the dealer. Did they replace your injectors? Did you remove the tune?

Sure thing. I did end up taking it into dealer. At that point, I was out of warranty and the only applicable warranty would be hpfp and turbos, since they have been extended.

I left the tune in since much of my warranty is gone. I put procede in map 0 (valet mode) and turned off Canclear, which is recommended for taking it in.

The dealership ended up testing the hpfp and it failed, so they put in a new hpfp. They had no reason to look for a tune, since my car appears mostly stock. The dealership I went to also tends to be mod friendly.

After the hpfp was replaced, the car started pretty strong. There were no long cranks at all. It's probably been around 1.5 months and I've seen some long cranks since then, which means there's something in the fuel system that I still haven't tracked down.

I've also had my turbos replaced since I started this thread, per dealer. I had REALLY bad wastegate rattle and upon inspection they weren't closing correctly. The new turbos seem to spool up faster.

Fast forward.

Injectors still haven't been replaced. I have no misfires though... but I definitely need to take a closer look. Coilpacks also haven't been replaced, but plugs have.

[NEVER ENUF]

I recently had the same problem in the 335 coupe I just picked up. Turned out it was the fuel pressure regulator. Once that was replaced it cranks and fires up like a champ. May be worth looking into.

[quasitime]

Fuel pressure regulator? Any idea what p/n they replaced on the work order? From what I thought everything was integrated into the hpfp, and there is no separate pressure regulator.

Originally Posted by NEVER ENUF

I recently had the same problem in the 335 coupe I just picked up. Turned out it was the fuel pressure regulator. Once that was replaced it cranks and fires up like a champ. May be worth looking into.

[NEVER ENUF]

Parts they replaced were:
16 14 7 163 296 repair kit and filter
13 53 7 614 317 sensor
Work order says low pressure sensor and file pressure regulator replaced

[Albodent]

Same problem here. At 50k right now and it sort of chokes up on cold starts every now and then. After unlocking car, insert key and hit the start button without the brake to start the car but just to prime the pump and light up the dash. Give it two to three seconds and start the car. Works for me and no other stutter ever since I prime it this way. I know its not the HPFP bc just had it replaced. Give it a try.

[BMWM.D.]

A couple things to mention:

1) Low-pressure fuel sensor. Has this been replaced? They fail all the time and can cause issues like this.

2) DME programming. When was the last time it had a programming update from BMW? The newer software has improvements for the long crank issue. Do you hear your fuel pump prime when you go top unlock the doors?

3) Fuel pressure. There is a fuel pressure regulator in the left side of the fuel tank. I believe the check-valve for the fuel pump is also built into the regulator/filter assembly. I have seen one of these fail on a 335i before, and it caused a long crank as you describe. You would need to test the residual pressure in the system to see if it's dropping excessively.

[quasitime]

1) This one has not been replaced yet. I took a look at the sensor reading and it seems to be displaying accurately rather than be stuck (as seen in other threads). I may just do it though.

2) I have the update that primes the fuel pump. I can hear it prime when I unlock the car after sitting for awhile.

3) Shit. I don't think I can test this on my own. Or do you know of a value I can read off of INPA to see if this pressure is too low?

Thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

A couple things to mention:

1) Low-pressure fuel sensor. Has this been replaced? They fail all the time and can cause issues like this.

2) DME programming. When was the last time it had a programming update from BMW? The newer software has improvements for the long crank issue. Do you hear your fuel pump prime when you go top unlock the doors?

3) Fuel pressure. There is a fuel pressure regulator in the left side of the fuel tank. I believe the check-valve for the fuel pump is also built into the regulator/filter assembly. I have seen one of these fail on a 335i before, and it caused a long crank as you describe. You would need to test the residual pressure in the system to see if it's dropping excessively.

[quasitime]

Update:

I did some more playing around with INPA.

-The LP sensor seems to be fine. The pressure reading seems to start at around 5000ish and then decreases over time as the car sits. Which indicates to me is definitely losing pressure. I assume that's why the car needs to prime when you unlock the door.

-Finally got INPA to read my injector values. Is it me, or do the flow rates seem set a little low?

[quasitime]

[quasitime]

Hate to bump this thread but thought I'd offer an update. After the last post, I had my injectors replaced. That makes:

-HPFP replaced
-Injectors replaced
-Plugs replaced

Sometimes the car starts right up. After driving for a bit and letting it sit, it tends to rough start. Long cranks and sometimes I have to hit the start button 2 or 3 times (goes through full crank cycle each time) before it starts. Once running it's fine... slight micro-hiccups here and there but nothing bad.

I'm thinking it must be this fuel regulator or fuel filter that was mentioned in the thread.

[quasitime]

After some more observation, I'm almost sure that the "almost new" injectors I have are leaking again. After a couple of 3-4 second crank cycles, the car seems to have burned off all the excess fuel on the plugs and it starts up.

Any idea what can cause this leaking? Am I just getting bad luck with injectors? Or is there a larger problem here where the injectors are getting damaged somehow? Carbon buildup?

[quasitime]

I'm stumped. I looked at my spark plugs and none of them were wet or fouled. I'm not sure it's injectors but it's clearly a warm/hot start issue. Car starts up just fine when cold.

Anyone have ideas?

[lacortedaniel]

I took out my camshaft position sensor, on the driver's side, since it was throwing a code, cleaned it and bolted back in. Would this affect the starting? It seems to take longer to start.

[Mykindaguise]

I am literally having the same issue as the OP. I only get the long crank if I run the car and then let it sit for maybe 2-4 hours then try to start. I know this because the days I go out to lunch from work it long cranks...if I dont go out for lunch and start my car at the end of the day its perfectly fine. I also have the shakes at idle...that goes away once the car is fully warmed up and my oil temps have reached where they should be.

Previous owner had HPFP/injectors/spark plugs replaced last summer. I just had the walnut blasting done as well.

I see many threads like this that have no resolution.

[Raman335i]

I'm having this issue too.

I'm getting the car walnut blasted and replacing the spark plugs and injectors.

[quasitime]

Update: 10/14/2014

Guys, I literally never figured out what caused this. I spent a couple thousand trying to fix it.

-New LPFP
-Multiple HPFP (At least 3 within the past year)
-New LP Sensor
-New Fuel filter (driver's side)
-Injectors multiple times
-Plugs
-Fuel Control Module

It ONLY happens after being warm and then sitting for a half hour, or an hour. It's kind of embarassing knowing your car is not going to start. Always drives fine after it starts.

My gut says there's pressure loss somewhere in the system when the car sits warm. When the LPFP primes after the car has been sitting for a long time, it starts pretty well. If only I could trigger it to prime somehow, I think I would have a reliable workaround.

[Myrder]

Originally Posted by quasitime

Update: 10/14/2014

Guys, I literally never figured out what caused this. I spent a couple thousand trying to fix it.

-New LPFP
-Multiple HPFP (At least 3 within the past year)
-New LP Sensor
-New Fuel filter (driver's side)
-Injectors multiple times
-Plugs
-Fuel Control Module

It ONLY happens after being warm and then sitting for a half hour, or an hour. It's kind of embarassing knowing your car is not going to start. Always drives fine after it starts.

My gut says there's pressure loss somewhere in the system when the car sits warm. When the LPFP primes after the car has been sitting for a long time, it starts pretty well. If only I could trigger it to prime somehow, I think I would have a reliable workaround.

Have you tried to prime your pump once before you start? Put the key in, hit start, without foot on brake, then do it again to start it up?

[quasitime]

Originally Posted by Myrder

Have you tried to prime your pump once before you start? Put the key in, hit start, without foot on brake, then do it again to start it up?

I'll give it a shot. I usually hear the pump prime when I unlock the car (not always). Should I hear it prime again when I do this?

[Myrder]

Originally Posted by quasitime

I'll give it a shot. I usually hear the pump prime when I unlock the car (not always). Should I hear it prime again when I do this?

It will prime again, might as well try it. I do it sometimes when I have heavy E85 mixes

[mike082802]

i have the long starts as well. it only happened after i put my walbro 255 pump in and e50 or higher. used to happen after the car sat for an hour or two, last week or so its happened on the first start up. funny thing is the after it happens the second time i hit the start button she fires right up.
hpfp replaced with injectors last year
new plugs and walnut blast this summer
lp fuel sensor replaced this summer

[quasitime]

Originally Posted by Myrder

It will prime again, might as well try it. I do it sometimes when I have heavy E85 mixes

I tried this a bunch last night. I came home after driving and the car was warmed up.

-Turned the car off.
-Immediately tried to start it, long cranks. No start.
-Took the key out, locked the car, unlocked, key back in. Start button (no brake)
-Did this a couple times and never heard the lpfp prime.
-Long crank was still there.

[quasitime]

Originally Posted by lacortedaniel

I took out my camshaft position sensor, on the driver's side, since it was throwing a code, cleaned it and bolted back in. Would this affect the starting? It seems to take longer to start.

Can anyone chime in on how the crankshaft position sensor would cause a long crank?