[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by Wangsta

I am a hobbyist detailer myself, looking to simply level up my skills. Thanks for your concern. I am an active new member of autogeek. Im very aware of what im doing but still relatively a rookie. To answer your question, my car is not a lease. Ive read about cc failure on these rims. I just purchased some wheel guard from chemical guys. Going to see how it performs, it supposed to aid removal of contaminants = less scrubbing. Might take a leap into opticoat

Just to a bit more......

Another member from the geek on this forum.

I seriously recommend having your paint measure prior to wet-sanding. You don't want to jeopardize your protection anymore than you have to. There are paint gauges (not as accurate as the Defelsko) that you can get for around $200-$300. OEM paint is thin. 150 microns is about the average and a dollar bill is about 110 microns. Your paint (including CC) is just a little thicker than a dollar bill.

I am trying out the CarPro Hydr02 Touchless sealant. It has been 2 weeks and I will see how it does on the wheels this Saturday.

Now... Back to your regularly scheduled program.

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

Just to a bit more......

Another member from the geek on this forum.

I seriously recommend having your paint measure prior to wet-sanding. You don't want to jeopardize your protection anymore than you have to. There are paint gauges (not as accurate as the Defelsko) that you can get for around $200-$300. OEM paint is thin. 150 microns is about the average and a dollar bill is about 110 microns. Your paint (including CC) is just a little thicker than a dollar bill.

I am trying out the CarPro Hydr02 Touchless sealant. It has been 2 weeks and I will see how it does on the wheels this Saturday.

Now... Back to your regularly scheduled program.

Hopefully he listens to you... wet-sanding is serious stuff.

[Zero_09]

That's some nice work there.

I'm also a rookie and wouldn't mind some advice.

Last week I used Menz SIP with a LC orange flat pad and did the majority of the big panels. I don't have enough room to polish in my garage. What I did was pulled part of my car in and worked at it section by section. It was supposed to be a two day process but couldn't finish it off on Sunday.

I have some time tomorrow so should I just wash the car tomorrow and continue with the polishing? I don't need to clay again do I?

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by Zero_09

That's some nice work there.

I'm also a rookie and wouldn't mind some advice.

Last week I used Menz SIP with a LC orange flat pad and did the majority of the big panels. I don't have enough room to polish in my garage. What I did was pulled part of my car in and worked at it section by section. It was supposed to be a two day process but couldn't finish it off on Sunday.

I have some time tomorrow so should I just wash the car tomorrow and continue with the polishing? I don't need to clay again do I?

Wash it very carefully to avoid swirls. Just make sure you are polishing in the shade. You can always buy a pop up roof/tent thing what ever they are called and put that at the front of your garage door to at least keep your car in the shade.

[jslym777]

if youre going to drive it you should have waxed the panels that you finished so theres protection on them, but just be gentle. washes arent intended to get everything off, just light dirt. you do not need to clay again

[PTek Will]

So here are the pictures you've all been dying for lol

This hood is from a 98? Mercedes Benz. The clearcoat seemed VERY hard.

Pic 1: wet sanded with 1500 grit
Pic 2: wet sanded with 2000 grit
Pic 3: meg105 with makita and 7" wool pad. i must have done 8 passes or more. it was my first time picking up a rotary so i wasn't sure how much pressure should be applied. please chime in
pic 4: the "scratch lines" i was talking about. you can't see it unless you are up close or if you shine a spot light on it. the camera simply wont pick up what can only bee seen in person. its not even noticeable with the fluorescent tubes, but to my eyes it is not even close to perfect at all

So.. do i need to sand it down with 3000 or more grit to avoid these scratches? is there technique with the rotary that i am missing? i tried using it with hardly any pressure, and worked up to pressing down on it like i would on my pc. i tried it on 1200 rpm all the way up to 2000 rpm lol. and dont bash me cuz remember! this is what i went to get a junkyard hood for! to figure out my limits

Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated guys!

[abrahambeckers]

I saw this on my 320d M Activity when it was a year old. BMW knew of the problem and said that it required new door handles with a slimmer layer of paint on the internecine terms of the 4 cylinder versions, if it has the automatic Start/end feature which stops the engine in traffic when simple is selected and the clutch is published then it will be a 2007 - 2010 model.

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by Wangsta

So here are the pictures you've all been dying for lol

This hood is from a 98? Mercedes Benz. The clearcoat seemed VERY hard.

Pic 1: wet sanded with 1500 grit
Pic 2: wet sanded with 2000 grit
Pic 3: meg105 with makita and 7" wool pad. i must have done 8 passes or more. it was my first time picking up a rotary so i wasn't sure how much pressure should be applied. please chime in
pic 4: the "scratch lines" i was talking about. you can't see it unless you are up close or if you shine a spot light on it. the camera simply wont pick up what can only bee seen in person. its not even noticeable with the fluorescent tubes, but to my eyes it is not even close to perfect at all

So.. do i need to sand it down with 3000 or more grit to avoid these scratches? is there technique with the rotary that i am missing? i tried using it with hardly any pressure, and worked up to pressing down on it like i would on my pc. i tried it on 1200 rpm all the way up to 2000 rpm lol. and dont bash me cuz remember! this is what i went to get a junkyard hood for! to figure out my limits

Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated guys!

Try using 3M Trizact foam pads to refine the surface before going to the buffer. Trizact comes in 3000 grit and 5000 grit. By going through these 2 sanding discs, you should be able to finish with a DA easily.

IMO... this is the future. I think we will have sanding discs within the next 10 years that could finish down like a traditional polish/foam pad.

I know you are trying to learn but I would strongly recommend you get yourself a paint gauge. This will help you to understand how much paint you are taking off with this process so that you could better plan your future project.

[PTek Will]

a paint guage is definitely on my list to buy.. only thing is.. do i shell out $500 for a good one? or can i get away with one on ebay for $120?

about using a 3000 grit foam disc, i tried using one on a side skirt i picked up from the junk yard.. yielded the same results.. maybe 4000 or 5000 grit? but i see people doing it with 3000 grit and getting mirror like results.

[PTek Will]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

Just to a bit more......

I am trying out the CarPro Hydr02 Touchless sealant. It has been 2 weeks and I will see how it does on the wheels this Saturday.

Let me know how Hydr02 goes! Will you be using a pressure washer to blast off the dirt or just a regular hose sprayer?

[jslym777]

what is the reason you are using 1500 grit first of all? you cant go this aggressive without measuring paint, even on a brand new car.

[PTek Will]

i only have 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper at the moment lol. so i made do with what i had. i just ordered some 2500 and 3000 grit. what grit should i start with and work up to assuming it is brand new paint?

[jslym777]

thats the thing... when wet sanding you dont assume anything, you need to investigate

[tofu-]

Originally Posted by Wangsta

i only have 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper at the moment lol. so i made do with what i had. i just ordered some 2500 and 3000 grit. what grit should i start with and work up to assuming it is brand new paint?

oem paint is going to be the thinnest

if you want to fool around with this stuff, do it to a respray where the clear will (generally) be much thicker.


edit: if you can't 100% remove sanding scratches even after 3000 grit, you're likely dragging contaminants around or you haven't sanded well enough with the previous grit. are you using soapy water to wet sand? it helps release buildup from the sandpaper

also, are you using a foam block to sand? if you're using just your hand on flat surfaces, you're definitely going to get RDS

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by Wangsta

Let me know how Hydr02 goes! Will you be using a pressure washer to blast off the dirt or just a regular hose sprayer?

I already did. I made a post about it few days ago.

Regarding wet sanding......

In the perfect world, you want to finish up with the highest grit medium available. Unfortunately, we don't live in a perfect world. Guess work and experimentation will be involve and this is where experience comes in. There really isn't a simple formula like you do A and B to get result C. There are way too many variables.

I generally use the Griot Garage 3" DA to spot sand. 3M Trizact foam sanding discs on the DA has been working for me. I am not in the body shop environment and I generally avoid OEM orange peel correction so I seldom would use sandpaper under 2000 grit.

[PTek Will]

Originally Posted by tofu-

oem paint is going to be the thinnest

if you want to fool around with this stuff, do it to a respray where the clear will (generally) be much thicker.


edit: if you can't 100% remove sanding scratches even after 3000 grit, you're likely dragging contaminants around or you haven't sanded well enough with the previous grit. are you using soapy water to wet sand? it helps release buildup from the sandpaper

also, are you using a foam block to sand? if you're using just your hand on flat surfaces, you're definitely going to get RDS

I'm just using water. And yes with a foam block! I have come to the conclusion that as of now, removing orange peel is beyond my scope. HOWEVER, sanding comes very useful for deeper scratches, so I still think this is a very useful skill to learn. CANT STOP WONT STOP

[tofu-]

like i said, try the denim and velvet pads from carpro

you'll be amazed

[Detailers Domain]

e39 m5 - jet black -

Menzerna FG400 with a Rupes BigFoot LHR21ES followed by Sonax Nano Polish with a Rupes BigFoot LHR15ES

[jslym777]

i have a blue bmw 750Li coming in for a full correction ill have to post a picture

[PTek Will]

is the rupes that much of a bigger deal than the flex? im trying to upgrade from my pc and im stuck between the flex and rupes D:

[rollinstone157]

Wangsta -

Not to circlejerk here, but I do want to congratulate you on going on out a limb and trying to learn this by yourself--and in the right way as well!

So much kudos for not practicing on your car, and instead getting a hood from a yard. Kudos for having the balls for trial and error.

Definitely giving me an interest in learning how to really detail--beyond the simple "Mothers California" Wash/clay/3-stage wax process I do now.

[PTek Will]

Originally Posted by Wangsta

So here are the pictures you've all been dying for lol

This hood is from a 98? Mercedes Benz. The clearcoat seemed VERY hard.

Pic 1: wet sanded with 1500 grit
Pic 2: wet sanded with 2000 grit
Pic 3: meg105 with makita and 7" wool pad. i must have done 8 passes or more. it was my first time picking up a rotary so i wasn't sure how much pressure should be applied. please chime in
pic 4: the "scratch lines" i was talking about. you can't see it unless you are up close or if you shine a spot light on it. the camera simply wont pick up what can only bee seen in person. its not even noticeable with the fluorescent tubes, but to my eyes it is not even close to perfect at all

So.. do i need to sand it down with 3000 or more grit to avoid these scratches? is there technique with the rotary that i am missing? i tried using it with hardly any pressure, and worked up to pressing down on it like i would on my pc. i tried it on 1200 rpm all the way up to 2000 rpm lol. and dont bash me cuz remember! this is what i went to get a junkyard hood for! to figure out my limits

Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated guys!

So guys! I ordered myself some 5.5" microfiber cutting and polishing pads. Added 5 passes with meg105 and 5 passes with meg205. those little scratches i was talking about... GONE!! WOOOOOOO!!! VICTORYYYYY Check out the pics!