[Nushibo]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

3/4" hoses? Post a pic.

Its hard to see but basically what I did was fit the 3/4" hose directly to the top half and run it to the can. This creates a slope for the oil/air. In this way the oil doesn't pool like with the 90 degree elbow. The line runs basically even to the can.

I can tell there is a performance boost or normalcy now because originally the first two setups with the elbow after about 200 miles the engine becomes bogged down in a sense due to the pooling. Feels like something is blocking it, you get a sense that something is off like a seal is going blow. At the first two setups i thought it was my imagination. But after driving this again with a clean system its nice and smooth. If the car bogs that means somewhere in those lines is a pool. Meaning I will have to lower the cans height slightly to create a negative slope.

Other than that seems like smooth sailing. The lower half still uses a 90 degree elbow.

Side note that foil allows the hose to bend and retain certain shapes which is a plus.

[135i_vs_]

I decided to relocate the catch to to an area much closer, since the can is small enough. Previous location was just fine also.

Looks like the catch can is definitely working. After only 150 miles of driving, the bottom of the can was already coated. It was mostly stop and go traffic in rush hour commute, and occasionally WOT.

I upgraded to AN-10 Nylon braided hoses. Had quite a difficult time cutting these hoses; a regular blade will not work. Had to use an electric saw. These are extremely durable hoses, used in performance automotive applications.

New location: Can fits just fine, held by friction. It is very close to the cooler, but not touching any part of it. Moving forward, if I see any issues, I will locate the can back to where it was.

[Nushibo]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

I decided to relocate the catch to to an area much closer, since the can is small enough. Previous location was just fine also.

Looks like the catch can is definitely working. After only 150 miles of driving, the bottom of the can was already coated. It was mostly stop and go traffic in rush hour commute, and occasionally WOT.

I upgraded to AN-10 Nylon braided hoses. Had quite a difficult time cutting these hoses; a regular blade will not work. Had to use an electric saw. These are extremely durable hoses, used in performance automotive applications.

New location: Can fits just fine, held by friction. It is very close to the cooler, but not touching any part of it. Moving forward, if I see any issues, I will locate the can back to where it was.

Very nice! I like it. It would seem you dont have to worry about basically anything lol. Except removing it when the time comes. Im loving all the locations everyones coming up with. Ill check back on my can in about another 500 miles. Just hit 2k with it. After this final test if i dont see any leaks or problems time to let this baby run until the car blows!(knock on wood)

But let us know if theres any changes you can tell performance wise. If you feel any of the things i mentioned be careful and check the setup. Im just glad i have time to work on this thing lol. Ive taken it apart three times so far.

Only thing i would worry about is the can slipping other than that looks great!

[135i_vs_]

Looks to me the catch can is doing it's job!
Installation had no issues over the miles driven, nor do I foresee any future issues.

Also, I think it is okay to check and empty can along with the Oil Change interval (10-13k miles).

What is alarming is the build up at the bottom of the can after I drained all the oil. The posted pictures are of inside the can after all the oil was allowed to drain for 5 minutes. That looks like the same stuff that builds up in the intake manifold and intake valves. Hence called "carbon build up" in the 335d...

I cannot say if catch can alone will prevent the carbon build up, however, I think there is a good possibility its helping significantly. Soot alone from the EGR should not cause the carbon building. It's the mixture with the oil/oil vapors that causes havoc.

[GottaBeKD]

That looks great. Do you have a list of parts if someone wants to replicate it?

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by GottaBeKD

That looks great. Do you have a list of parts if someone wants to replicate it?

The required parts are posted within this thread. Let me know if you have any questions.

[adriang]

Pardon my ignorance, what is my pointer hovering over in the pictures?

[135i_vs_]

Just an electrical connector. I believe this connector is what detects if the crankcase system is bypassed and vented to the atmosphere. Hence, an OBD2 code will be triggered ( check engine light)

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

Just an electrical connector. I believe this connector is what detects if the crankcase system is bypassed and vented to the atmosphere. Hence, an OBD2 code will be triggered ( check engine light)

That's correct. Top connector on that pipe detects it's presence and bottom one is a heater.

[adriang]

135i would you know the part number or can you point me to the part diagram of that piece which you measured?

has "bmw 586509 10 ro" on it

[135i_vs_]

Few people have PM'd me regarding how to do this and what parts are required, hose size, etc.

If you are interested PM me and I can put the kit together for you for a fee. Will take about 2 weeks as most parts are custom ordered and sized myself.

[135i_vs_]

Catch can installation is doing a great job.
I would assume 1/4 qt of blow by after an 10k oil change interval.

I can't imagine 1/4 of oil being sucked into the intake and mixing with the soot. Over time, I can see it causing a very sticky situation on the intake and intake valves. Blow by is also and issue for the 335i/135i, however, the carbon build up is at a lot slower pace then a diesel. Plus there is very minimal soot in the gasoline engines.

I do not need to add any oil in between for my BMW oil change intervals under the maintenance program (~11k).

Here is a video:

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Question I ask is once DPF/EGR is deleted I believe we will not need this Catch Can anyone correct me on this Im due for EGR/DPF delete mid August.

[TorqueAddict]

Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d

Question I ask is once DPF/EGR is deleted I believe we will not need this Catch Can anyone correct me on this Im due for EGR/DPF delete mid August.

IMO, we will still need the catch can, because removal / disabling of EGR and DPF will not have much impact of the engine blow by.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Damn it I got to buy the catch can f me again jajajaja

[skychismo]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

Some helpful dimensions for the catch can installation.
This is the OEM hose that is being replaced:

So the can just has one inlet and one outlet? It sits right in between where that hose normally goes?

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by skychismo

So the can just has one inlet and one outlet? It sits right in between where that hose normally goes?

It's a little more complicated than that.
I sold the set up to a few people. Seems to be holding up fine.

I have put roughly 5,000+ miles on the set up.

[skychismo]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

It's a little more complicated than that.
I sold the set up to a few people. Seems to be holding up fine.

I have put roughly 5,000+ miles on the set up.

I only see two fittings on that can. How else are people routing them?

[GottaBeKD]

Mine is holding up well.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by GottaBeKD

Mine is holding up well.

How many miles is that? I'm guessing ~1200 miles?

[GottaBeKD]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

How many miles is that? I'm guessing ~1200 miles?

Closer to 2000 miles. Lots of highway with little load.

[GottaBeKD]

I put the stock airbox back in. Was running a cone filter.

The easiest way to get to it is to remove the 3 screws holding the air inlet scoops above the radiator. Sure beats having to fight with the airbox and hoses.

Not the best photo but you can see how tight it is in there.