[Socket]

Originally Posted by kookie

Loving the progress. Always loving the reviews. You've saved me a few $$$ by buying something that actually works

Hahaahha thanks Kookie, glad to be of help

[135]

Originally Posted by Socket

Oh have not heard of people using F8x cylinders or the coding for HP brakes..... very interesting

Here's Odyssey's post where he mentioned the F8X brake master cylinder:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...4#post26600374



To code for HP brakes, add +SPBR to your VO in both FRM and CAS and default code the affected modules (FRM and DSC?) - vtl knows more about coding than me so maybe he could confirm.

I also read that when the DSC is reprogrammed or changed (in this case the former), the steering angle sensor (and seemingly also the yaw sensor, acceleration sensor and input & output valve characteristics) must be reset and recalibrated. Strangely, another thread that said all modules need to be default coded when the DSC is modified.
Also, park your car on a flat level surface when doing this calibration, otherwise, the yaw and acceleration sensors will be incorrectly calibrated.

There are quite a few threads regarding HP brakes on 1addicts and e90post - just search for SPBR.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by 135

Here's Odyssey's post where he mentioned the F8X brake master cylinder:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...4#post26600374



To code for HP brakes, add +SPBR to your VO in both FRM and CAS and default code the affected modules (FRM and DSC?) - vtl knows more about coding than me so maybe he could confirm.

I also read that when the DSC is reprogrammed or changed (in this case the former), the steering angle sensor (and seemingly also the yaw sensor, acceleration sensor and input & output valve characteristics) must be reset and recalibrated. Strangely, another thread that said all modules need to be default coded when the DSC is modified.
Also, park your car on a flat level surface when doing this calibration, otherwise, the yaw and acceleration sensors will be incorrectly calibrated.

There are quite a few threads regarding HP brakes on 1addicts and e90post - just search for SPBR.

Wow thanks
This is great info

[Socket]

Regular readers may think I've gone quite and have finished working on the car.... not true

Been busy over the last 12 weeks, learning how to tune car audio using a PC, a USB mic, some audio analysis software and the systems digital signal processor (DSP)

I am still a complete novice but have been doing a lot of research and wasting lots of time making mistakes

Have all the speakers level matched, time aligned and a rough EQ done
Still have a lot to do before its finished, but it is already sounding pretty good with lots of detail in the music tracks I have never heard before

A couple of things I have learned along the way:

1/ You cant throw a set of speakers into a car and expect the audio to sound great. The speakers and system need to be tuned so everything is playing together. I did not appreciate this simple fact. Makes sense though, who would install new turbos and then not get their car tuned

2/ The selection of the speakers and where/how they are installed makes a huge difference. I am considering moving all the speakers from their current locations (again) because the mid bass and staging is buried. Just a massive waste of $ having to do things two or three times because I didn't know better at the time

3/ Audio tuning is a complicated, time consuming process of measuring, adjusting and measuring again. The auto tune features built into DSPs are rubbish (probably included to allow car audio shops churn out basic installs) I did not appreciate how involved audio tuning is and how much time is required to do it properly.

Actually trying to find info on the topic has not been easy. There is not a lot of "how to" vids on car audio tuning. When I get a bit further in, Ill post up some DIYs in case anyone is interested

Meanwhile I'm heading back to the car to upload the latest version of the tune and take some more measurements hahhaa

Pics below

Pic 1 - Frequency response of speakers (tweeters, mids, mbass and sub)
Pic 2 - Equalizing and phase aligning right mid
Pic 3 - Left and right tweeter impulse response (not quite playing together)
Pic 4 - Screen shot of Helix DSP software, right mid settings for spcgry tune version 21

[Aus335iguy]

Man I wish that stuff was around in my day... I'd have been even more broke lol
Look forward to seeing how it all turns out. Any plans to compete in competitions Sock ?

[shannon1]

Woe, that's all gibberish to me. I mean sound engineers even do uni degrees to learn all that stuff. Hats off for trying to learn it yourself.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

Man I wish that stuff was around in my day... I'd have been even more broke lol
Look forward to seeing how it all turns out. Any plans to compete in competitions Sock ?

No mate, no plans to compete. I'll be happy if it turns out better then a stock 3 series

[Socket]

Originally Posted by shannon1

Woe, that's all gibberish to me. I mean sound engineers even do uni degrees to learn all that stuff. Hats off for trying to learn it yourself.

Thanks Shannon. Its mainly gibberish to me as well but willing to give it a go

[Socket]

NBT emulator died
Purchased a replacement and waited 5 months for it to arrive (thanks covid)
Removed the interior and consoles to install the new emulator
Nothing
Put everything back again and planned next steps

Enlisted VTLs help to check wiring and circuitry
Removed the interior and consoles to check everything with Vinces help
Nothing
Not sure if its a dud emulator, fried NBT head unit or screen

Decided to install CIC system as a interim solution
Reorganised wiring and installed CIC head unit and CIC screen
Chucked NBT bits into a box for later
Put everything back together
Could not find torch
Removed the interior and consoles again
Found touch under the carpet
Put everything back together for a second time

CIC unit works fine

Ordered a new NBT head unit from USA, should be here in mid Jan

Some days it would be better to just stay in bed haha

Pics below

Pics 1 to 5 - Removing the NBT system and installing the CIC system
Pic 6 - Installed. Now to put the carpets, consoles and seats back in
Pic 7 - Glove box USB is a new addition
Pic 8 - Done... oh no where is the torch ?
Pic 9 - CIC works

[eastsidaz]

Out of interest what NBT emu did you go with? Thanks

[Socket]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

Out of interest what NBT emu did you go with? Thanks

There are two suppliers of NBT emulators that I know of
One based in Canada and one in Romania
I went with Custom Retrofit Garage in Romania
Price is similar but the CRG customer service is excellent

[Yonyx]

Originally Posted by Socket

There are two suppliers of NBT emulators that I know of
One based in Canada and one in Romania
I went with Custom Retrofit Garage in Romania
Price is similar but the CRG customer service is excellent

just posted a message in the NBT retrofit topic. Same issue- head unit died. Want to order and replace just the unit. What currency do I use to entice you and Vincent to help out? Beer, whiskey, etc?

Also have you ordered Evo (newer) version or exactly the same?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Yonyx

just posted a message in the NBT retrofit topic. Same issue- head unit died. Want to order and replace just the unit. What currency do I use to entice you and Vincent to help out? Beer, whiskey, etc?

Also have you ordered Evo (newer) version or exactly the same?

Replacing with the same version of NBT HU as I have the emulator to suit. Whats up with your HU? How do you know its not the emulator or screen? No beer or whiskey required, happy to help if we can

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Yonyx

just posted a message in the NBT retrofit topic. Same issue- head unit died. Want to order and replace just the unit. What currency do I use to entice you and Vincent to help out? Beer, whiskey, etc?

Also have you ordered Evo (newer) version or exactly the same?

This is the HU i ordered

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2012-201...72.m2749.l2649

Plenty on ebay

[Yonyx]

Originally Posted by Socket

Replacing with the same version of NBT HU as I have the emulator to suit. Whats up with your HU? How do you know its not the emulator or screen? No beer or whiskey required, happy to help if we can

The screen seem to be functioning: on start the home page appears and then goes into time setting mode and switched to "no warning tones" message.

iDrive was checked by the mechanic. He says the voltage seem to be normal, so it should work. So, it's either wiring or the head unit. If I can replace it with any (same type) unit that's good news.

[Wolf 335]

Socket on what page is your Blackvue front and rear dash cam diy on?

Recently got a dash cam with a hardwiring kit, and would like to see where you connected it in the fuse panel.


-Keep up the great work as always! And thank you for all the information you contribute!

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Socket on what page is your Blackvue front and rear dash cam diy on?

Recently got a dash cam with a hardwiring kit, and would like to see where you connected it in the fuse panel.


-Keep up the great work as always! And thank you for all the information you contribute!

Hey Wolf. Dashcam is on page 56 but does not show fuse panel. Ill take a picture and post it up for you. You need to select a fuse that is powered only when the ignition is on. Unless you want the dash cam to be on in parking mode. Then you need to select a fuse that is powered all the time and have a power controller wired into the dash cam to cut the power if the battery is low. I only have my dash cam active when the ignition is on. So the fuse position in the picture ill post will only be useful if you want the same set up

[Socket]

Here you go wolf
Pic of my fuse box with the dash cam fuse circled (big red/black plug)
Hope this helps

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by Socket

Hey Wolf. Dashcam is on page 56 but does not show fuse panel. Ill take a picture and post it up for you. You need to select a fuse that is powered only when the ignition is on. Unless you want the dash cam to be on in parking mode. Then you need to select a fuse that is powered all the time and have a power controller wired into the dash cam to cut the power if the battery is low. I only have my dash cam active when the ignition is on. So the fuse position in the picture ill post will only be useful if you want the same set up

Thank you for the pic. I would like to have constant power for parking monitoring. This is the kit I got. It does have low voltage protection. Do you have a suggestion as to what fuse position would be ideal for constant power?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Thank you for the pic. I would like to have constant power for parking monitoring. This is the kit I got. It does have low voltage protection. Do you have a suggestion as to what fuse position would be ideal for constant power?

Hard to say as it depends on which fuses you have free.
Easiest way is to use a multimeter to probe the free fuse slots you have available with the ignition off
If you dont have a multimeter then some trial and error is the way to go, by turning off the ignition and plugging the dash cam fuse into the empty slots until you find one that is active
Hope this helps

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Yonyx

The screen seem to be functioning: on start the home page appears and then goes into time setting mode and switched to "no warning tones" message.

iDrive was checked by the mechanic. He says the voltage seem to be normal, so it should work. So, it's either wiring or the head unit. If I can replace it with any (same type) unit that's good news.

I have a NBT head unit for sale if you need one Yonyx

[Socket]

Still working on the audio tune and wrestling with a NBT emulator that does not seem to want to work

Meanwhile have been struggling to get the speakers to play in phase, so out come the seats so I can measure the distance from the speakers to the listening position as accurately as I can

Pics below

Pic 1 - Makeshift listening position marker
Pics 2 & 3 - Out come the seats
Pic 4 - Measuring right rear speaker
Pic 5 - Front side drivers
Pic 6 - Plugging in the new delays and taking more measurements